ill 


A  Voyage  Along 
The    Western    Coast 

OR 

Newest  Africa 


A     Description    of     Newest    Africa,    or    the    Africa    of 
To-day  and    the   Immediate    Future 


JOSEPH    H.   READING 

For   Fifteen  Years  Resident  in    Equatorial    Africa.     Author 
of  the  Ogowe  Band,  etc.,  and  late  Acting  Commer- 
cial Agent  of  the  United  States 


Philadelphia 

Reading  &  Company,  Publishers 

421  chestnut  street 

1 901 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1901,  by 

JOSEPH  H.  READING 

In  the  Office  of  the  librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C. 


All  rights  reserved 


Press  of 

Craven-Doan  Co., 

Phila. 


TO  MY  GOOD  FRIEND 


HERMANN  SCHIFF,  ESQ, 

OF    HAMBURG,    GERMANY 

TO  WHOM    I    AM    INDEBTED    FOR    MANY    FAVORS    EXTENDED  TO  ME   IN 

THE  INTERIOR  OF  AFRICA,  THIS   BOOK   IS 

GRATEFULLY   DEDICATED 


OT 
471 

PREFACE. 


TO  the  men  and  women  of  to-day  Africa  is  a  Great 
Unknown  Land  through  which  explorers  fight  their 
way  and  return  with  stories  of  the  horrible  and  the  marvel- 
ous— stories  too  often  told  for  no  higher  purpose  than  to 
make  a  book  sell,  or  a  lecture  interesting.  I  admit  that 
many  of  these  stories  are  true,  for  I  have  myself  been 
through  some  of  these  experiences ;  but  it  is  only  a  small 
portion  of  the  truth  concerning  this  great  continent,  just  as 
the  horrors  of  Indian  warfare  at  the  present  time  are  only 
a  small  part  of  the  truth  concerning  our  own  country. 

Africa  is  a  glorious  land,  rich  in  natural  resources, 
and  has  a  grand  destiny  in  store  for  her.  The  physical 
beauty  of  the  country,  the  adaptability  of  a  large  portion  of 
it  to  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  and  the  progress  that  the 
Coast  ports  have  made  in  civilization  and  refinement,  will 
be  a  revelation  to  many.  Africa  is  the  grandest  continent 
of  the"  earth  ;  it  is  destined  to  become  the  home  of  millions 
of  our  own  race,  and  more  money  will  be  made  there 
during  the  present  century  than  anywhere  else  in  the 
world.  The  descriptions  in  the  following  pages  of  the 
resources  of  that  country  are  far  below  the  truth — the 
realization  will  greatly  exceed  anything  I  have  predicted. 
The  engravings  are  mostly  from  photographs  repro- 
duced upon  copper  by  the  new  process,  and  give  a  truthful 
impression  of  the  ordinary  appearance  of  the  places 
described. 

As  railroad  building  has  already  begun,  it  cannot  be 
many  years  before  cities  and  towns  will  spring  up  all  over 
the  land,  and  I  confidently  expect  by  the  close  of  this 
decade  to  hear  of  Cook  selling  excursion  tickets  to  the 
Soudan,  the  Congo  and  the  great  inland  lakes.     Why  not  ? 

J.  H.  R. 

Philadelphia,  April  ist,  1901. 


654384 


CONTENTS. 


Chapter         I — Grand  Canary  and  Senegambia, 
"  II — Sierra  Leone, 

"  III— Liberia, 

IV— Gold  Coast,     . 
«  V — Niger  Delta  and  the  Soudan, 

VI— Old  Calabar,  . 
"  VII — Kamerun,  Batanga,  Eloby, 

"  VIII — St.  Thomas  :  Angola,     . 

"  IX — Valley  of  the  Congo, 

"  X — Congo  River  to  Gaboon, 


Page. 
I 

.     26 

•  48 

•  75 

•  95 
.  118 

•  139 
.  161 

.  180 

•  197 


LIST  OF  FULL  PAGE  ILLUSTRATIONS 


Frontispiece 

Modern  Residence.     Newest  Africa. 

Chapter  I 

Captain  Thompson. 
Distant  View  of  the  Lower  Ogowe. 
Mr.  Sinclair. 

Mr.  Sinclair's  Residence.     Gaboon. 
Mr.  Alexander. 
A  Qniet  Nook  in  the  Forest. 
Residents  of  Gaboon.     The  anthor~standing  on 
the  right. 

Chapter  II 

Morning    Roll-Call    in    front    of    Mr.    Schiff's 

Residence. 
Regent  Street.     Sierra  Leone. 
Freetown.     Sierra  Leone. 
Elmina.     Gold  Coast. 
Cape  Coast  Castle.     Gold  Coast. 


Chapter  III 

Accra.     Gold  Coast. 

Native  Village,  near  Axim.     Gold  Coast. 

Group  of  Natives.     Old  Africa. 

Native  Ladies.     Newest  Africa. 

A  Tropic  Home.     Newest  Africa. 

Palm  Oil  ready  for  shipment.     Lagos. 

Trading  Hulk.     Bonny  River. 

Canoe  on  the  Bonny  River.     Old  Africa. 

Trying  Palm  Oil.     Bonny,  Niger  River. 

Chapter  IV 

Catholic  Church.     Fernando  Po. 
Riverside  Trading  Houses.     Old  Calabar. 
Duke  Town.     Old  Calabar. 
Hope  Factory.     Old  Calabar. 
Creektown.     Old  Calabar  River. 
River  Scene.     Old  Calabar. 

Chapter  V 

Palm  Oil  Chop  Dinner  Party.     Old  Calabar. 
Governor's    Residence.        Kamerun.       Newest 

Africa. 
Native  House,  Kamerun.     German  Possessions. 
A  Bit  of  the  Kamerun  Beach.     High  Tide. 
Temporary    Government    Buildings.     German 

Possessions. 
A  bit  of  Kamerun  Beach.     Low  Tide. 

Chapter  VI 

Treasurer's  Office.     German  Possessions. 
Home  of  Foreign  Settler.     Benita  River. 
Avenue  of  Palms.     Eloby.     Corisco  Bay. 
River  Scenery.     Bantanga.     German  Africa. 
Home  of  Foreign  Immigrant.     Newest  Africa. 
Road-Making.     Newest  Africa. 
Ideal  African  Home.     Newest  Africa. 


Chapter  VII 

Country    Gentleman,     Moondah     River.       Old 

Africa. 
Gaboon  Native.     Newest  Africa. 
A  Dancing  Party.     Old  Africa. 
A  Riverside  Mansion.     Newest  Africa. 
Home  of   Native    Trader.      Gaboon.      Newest 

Africa. 
Steamer  "  Pioneer."     Used  by  Dr.  Livingston. 

Chapter  VIII 

Government  Buildings.     Gaboon. 

A  Corner  of  the  French  Settlement.     Gaboon. 

"Okook"    (Devil)    A    Secret    Society.       Old 

Africa. 
African  Children.     Gaboon.     Newest  Africa. 
A  By-Path.     Gaboon. 

Chapter  IX 

Chapel  at  Gaboon.     Built  by  the   Author  in 

1889. 
Banana  Avenue.     Gaboon. 
Home  of  French  Immigrant.     Gaboon. 
Gardener's  Cottage.     Gaboon.     Newest  Africa. 

Chapter  X 

Native  Troops.     Gaboon.      French  Possessions. 
Cottage  of  French  Peasant.     Gaboon. 
Country  Trading  House.     French  Possessions. 
Home  of  Coffee  Planter.     Near  Gaboon. 


CAPTAIN   THOMPSON 


Newest  Africa. 

Chapter  I. 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 


|^X|N  a  bright  windy  day  in  the  early  part  of  Septem- 
IJjJj'J  ber  a  small,  two-masted  steamer  might  have  been 
[f||iyify  seen  going  down  the  Irish  Channel,  outward 
bound  for  the  West  Coast  of  Africa.  This 
steamer  of-  960  tons  register  was  called  the  "Kisanga,"  and 
was  under  the  command  of  Captain  Charles  Thompson,  a 
brave  and  skillful  navigator,  who  had  been  twenty-five 
years  running  in  the  African  trade,  and  knew  all  the  ins 
and  outs  of  the  Coast  as  well  as  he  knew  the  way  about  his 
native  city  of  Liverpool,  and  perhaps  even  better.  The 
fresh  breeze  from  the  westward,  which  was  stiffening  to 
half  a  gale,  made  the  Channel  rough  and  choppy  and  the 
good  steamer's  decks  were  being  well  sprinkled  with  the 
briny  fluid,  while  occasionally  a  heavier  wave  would  come 
on  board  and  set  things  afloat  for  a  minute  or  two. 

The  "Kisanga"  was  almost  a  new  ship,  owned  by 
Messrs.  Hatton  &  Cookson,  of  Liverpool,  and  formerly  run 
solely  to  carry  their  own  cargo,  but  now  in  the  service  of 
the  Association.  The  Association  is  a  great  Trust  into 
which  the  interests  of  several  rival  firms  are  merged,  and 
was  formed  like  other  Trusts  to  stop  competition  and 
enlarge  profits.  It  now  includes  the  principal  private  firms 
trading  on  the  West  and  Southwest  coasts  of  Africa. 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SEXEGAMBIA. 

When  the  "  Kisanga "  ran  only  with  owner's  cargo 
she  sailed  direct  for  the  mouth  of  the  Niger,  calling  only 
at  Grand  Canary  for  coal,  and  on  the  Kru  Coast  for 
"  boys  "  as  the  native  passengers  who  act  as  coolies  in  all 
the  West  African  ports  are  called.  Now  that  she  was  in 
the  service  of  the  Association  she  would  call  at  a  number 
of  trading-stations  along  the  Coast  to  land  dispatches,  and 
in  some  places  cargo. 

In  the  little  smoking-room  at  the  head  of  the  saloon 
stairs  was  a  quartette  of  "  old  coasters "  looking  rather 
seedy  and  miserable,  and  trying  to  pass  the  time  with 
cigars  and  cards.  Leaving  home  for  a  prolonged  stay  in 
such  a  country  as  Africa  is  not  conducive  to  cheerfulness, 
and  with  the  home-scenes  and  partings  from  dear  ones 
fresh  in  the  mind,  it  was  not  to  be  wondered  at  if  they  felt 
gloomy  and  moody.  Leaving  them  to  their  reflections,  let 
us  take  a  glance  at  the  present  commerce  of  the  West 
African  Coast. 

There  are  two  lines  of  English  mail  steamers  sailing 
from  Liverpool — the  African  Steamship  Company,  of  Lon- 
don, and  the  British  &  African  Steamship  Company,  of 
Glasgow.  These  two  companies  were  formerly  rivals,  but 
now  work  in  harmony,  and  between  them  they  dispatch 
one  steamer  a  week  to  the  West  Coast,  and  one  steamer 
every  three  weeks  to  the  South  Coast.  By  the  "  West 
Coast "  is  meant  the  coast  from  Cape  Yerd  to  Old  Calabar  ; 
while  the  country -from  Kamerun  to  Benguela  is  known  as 
the  "South  Coast."  At  the  present  time  the  West  Coast 
furnishes  ten  times  as  much  produce  as  the  South  Coast, 
and  all  the  South  Coast  vessels  must  fill  up  with  cargo  on 
the  West  Coast  before  sailing  for  home.  In  addition  to 
the  departures  already  enumerated  these  English  com- 
panies dispatch  a  steamer  once  a  month  from  either  Ham- 
burg or  Antwerp. 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

Of  the  Continental  lines  the  most  important  is 
Messrs.  Woermann  &  Co.'s  line  which  dispatches  a  large, 
fine  steamer  from  Hamburg  even'  two  weeks,  alternately 
for  the  West  and  South  Coasts.  Next  in  importance  is  the 
Portuguese  Line  with  a  swift  express  steamer  on  the  6th  of 
every  month  from  Lisbon.  These  steamers  earn*  the 
through  mails  and  call  only  at  Madeira,  Princes,  St. 
Thomas,  the  Congo  and  the  Portuguese  settlements  in 
Angola.  The  French  Line  dispatch  a  steamer  once  a 
month  alternately  from  Bordeaux  and  Marsailles.  The 
Spanish  Line  sends  a  large  steamer  once  in  three  months 
from  Barcelona.  Besides  these  regular  departures  there  are 
frequently  extra  sailings,  and  some  firms  like  Messrs.  Hat- 
ton  &  Cookson  own  their  own  steamers  and  sailing  ships. 
From  this  enumeration  it  may  easily  be  seen  that  the  West- 
ern Coast  of  Africa  has  abundant  transportation  facilities. 

It  is  true  these  lines  are  not  all  of  them  so  profitable 
as  they  should  be,  for  there  has  been  such  competition  that 
freight  rates  on  some  classes  of  goods  are  too  low,  but  the 
companies  are  now  coming  to  a  better  understanding,  and 
it  is  to  be  hoped  fair  rates  will  rule  in  the  future  so  that  a 
reasonable  profit  may  be  earned.  But  if  the  freight  rates 
are  in  some  instances  too  low,  the  passenger  rates  are  too 
high,  especially  when  the  very  ordinary  accommodations 
are  taken  into  account.  The  passage-rate  is  now  thirty- 
five  pounds  to  the  South  Coast,  and  the  local  rates  on  the 
Coast  from  one  port  to  another  is  from  one  pound  to  three 
pounds  a  day.  Both  table  and  service  are  far  from  being 
excellent  from  a  North  American  point  of  view.  On  some 
of  the  ships  there  is  a  good  deal  of  heavy  drinking,  which 
makes  it  unpleasant  for  passengers  who  do  not  indulge  in 
such  excesses.  It  is  but  fair  to  say  that  a  great  improvement 
has  been  going  on  of  late  in  this  matter,  and  it  is  now 
possible,  by  choosing  your  captain,  to  make  the  voyage  with- 
out any  special  annoyance  from  this  objectionable  practice. 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

The  "  Kisanga  "  has  always  been  a  favorite  ship  ;  clean 
and  comfortable,  rather  faster  than  some  of  the  older  ves- 
sels, and  commanded  by  a  thorough  seaman  as  well  as  an 
accomplished  gentleman,  she  has  seldom  sailed  with  any 
spare  passenger-room.  Her  accommodations  for  saloon- 
passengers  are  in  the  stern,  which  is  an  objection  to  those 
who  suffer  from  sea-sickness,  but  "  old  coasters "  pride 
themselves  upon  being  sailors,  and  they  think  they  are 
further  away  from  the  noise  and  confusion  of  working 
cargo  than  they  would  be  amid-ship. 

The  four  gentlemen  in  the  smoking-room  were  Mr. 
James  Alexander,  a  Liverpool  commission  merchant ; 
Messrs.  Thomas  Sinclair  and  Herman  Schiff,  African 
traders  who  had  risen  to  the  rank  of  "  general  agent,"  and 
Joseph  King,  Esq.,  for  many  years  American  consul  upon 
the  African  coast.  There  were  several  younger  passengers 
on  board,  but  these  four  were  old  friends,  and  their  long 
sen-ice  upon  the  Coast  has  caused  them  to  be  looked  upon 
as  a  sort  of  aristocracy,  so  that  they  formed  a  little  circle 
by  themselves.  Presently  the  door  opened  and  in  stepped 
Captain  Thompson,  the  salt  water  dripping  from  his  oil- 
skin coat.  Just  then  the  bell  rang  and  all  went  downstairs 
to  dinner. 

The  outward  voyage  for  the  first  six  or  eight  days  is 
far  from  being  a  pleasant  one  ;  it  is  too  cold  or  too  wet  to 
sit  on  deck.  The  vessel  rolls  and  pitches,  especially  in  the 
Bay  of  Biscay,  and  the  passengers  are  usually  more  or  less 
homesick,  so  that  they  have  a  pretty  miserable  time  of  it. 
Day  by  day,  however,  the  sun  increases  in  power,  the  wind 
loses  its  force,  the  sea  quiets  down,  the  air  becomes  more 
balmy  and  the  "social  exiles"  crawl  from  their  hiding 
places  in  their  state-rooms  and  lie  about  in  the  sunshine  to 
drink  in  the  genial  warmth  and  thaw  themselves  into  a 
ofood  humor. 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

Toward  evening  of  the  seventh  day  out  some  brown 
rocks  rising  from  the  water  "  dead  ahead  "  of  them  an- 
nounced the  fact  that  they  were  approaching  the  island  of 
Grand  Canary.  The  port  is  on  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
island,  and  as  they  drew  near,  the  "  Kisanga  "  was  "  slowed 
down,"  and  at  intervals  her  engines  were  stopped  altogether 
in  order  to  take  soundings.  Some  captains  anchor  outside 
during  the  night,  but  Captain  Thompson  was  not  one  of 
that  sort ;  he  knew  he  could  take  his  ship  in  all  right,  and 
he  was  a  man  that  when  he  could  do  a  thing,  he  did  it ; 
besides  he  had  no  desire  to  keep  his  fires  up  all  night  for 
the  sake  of  a  couple  of  miles  steaming  in  the  morning, 
at  least  not  if  he  could  help  it.  So  the  "  Kisanga " 
crept  slowly  into  the  harbor  and  shortly  after  eleven 
o'clock  she  dropped  her  anchor  just  inside  the  new  break- 
water in  a  convenient  spot  for  taking  on  coal  in  the 
morning^. 

Until  very  recently  Madeira  was  the  great  coaling 
station  for  all  the  South  Atlantic  steamers  whether  bound 
for  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  the  Cape,  or  the  Brazils,  but 
now  the  West  African  boats  mostly  coal  at  Grand  Canary, 
the  coaling  company  there  being  in  some  way  connected 
with  the  officers  of  the  steamship  companies.  Besides,  it 
is  the  policy  of  the  latter  companies  to  build  up  the  Canary 
Island  ports  with  the  expectation  of  their  becoming  sani- 
tariums, and  thus  increasing  the  freight  and  passenger 
traffic. 

The  African  steamers  expect  to  take  coal  enough  with 
them  for  the  round  trip,  for  while  coal  may  be  purchased 
at  two  or  three  ports  on  the  Coast,  it  is  very  expensive  as 
it  must  be  brought  out  from  England,  handled  twice  and 
stored  securely  from  the  heavy  rains  that  would  cause  it  to 
deteriorate  rapidly.  The  plan  usually  adopted  is  to  steam 
out  from  England  at  full  speed,  say  from  eleven  to  twelve 
knots    an    hour ;    fill    up    with    coal    at    Grand    Canary, 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

including-  a  large  heap  on  the  forward  deck,  for  bad 
weather  and  rough  seas  are  now  left  behind,  and  then  for 
the  remainder  of  the  voyage  the  ship  is  run  at  about  three- 
quarters  speed,  say  eight  knots  an  hour,  which  experience 
has  shown  to  be  most  economical  of  fuel,  until  Grand 
Canary  is  once  more  reached  on  the  homeward  run,  when 
enough  coal  is  taken  to  last  to  Liverpool  and  the  ship  is 
driven  at  full  speed  again.  The  coal  used  is  the  kind 
known  in  America  as  bituminous,  anthracite  being  almost 
unknown  in  Great  Britain. 

All  were  astir  at  an  early  hour  the  next  morning  on 
board  the  "  Kisanga,"  and  boats  from  shore  were  soon 
clustered  thickly  about  the  gangway  which  had  been 
lowered  until  it  almost  touched  the  water.  The  port 
officers  were  the  first  on  board,  and  when  they  had  exam- 
ined the  ship's  papers  and  given  the  signal  that  all  was 
right  a  motley  crowd  swarmed  up  the  ladder  and  over  the 
sides  of  the  ship.  The  agent  of  the  coal  company,  hand- 
somely dressed,  was  there  to  see  how  much  coal  was 
needed.  The  commercial  house  to  whom  the  ship  was 
consigned  had  sent  representatives  to  get  a  list  of  the  stores 
and  fresh  provisions  needed  and  to  offer  hospitality  to  the 
captain.  Runners  from  hotels  and  houses  of  ill-fame  were 
seeking  customers  among  the  passengers  ;  women  came  for 
the  ship's  and  passengers'  soiled  linen  ;  fakirs  brought  a 
great  variety  of  wares,  much  of  which  was  merely  trash, 
and  boatmen  were  clamorous  to  take  the  strangers  ashore 
at  a  shilling  a  head.  The  clerks  and  younger  fry  among 
the  passengers  were  eager  for  adventure,  and  anxious  to 
inspect  the  wine  and  women  of  the  island,  and  they  were 
soon  on  their  way  to  the  shore  in  charge  of  the  guides 
whom  they  had  chosen  ;  but  the  old  hands  were  not  to  be 
so  easily  caught,  for  they  wandered  about  the  deck  enjoy- 
ing the  beauty  of  the  scene,  and  puffed  away  quietly  on 
their  brierwood  pipes.     And  a  lovely  sight  it  was  indeed  ! 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

Across  the  bay  was  the  old  Spanish  city  of  Las  Palmas 
still  lying  in  the  shadows  of  the  early  morning.  Behind 
the  city  the  mountains  rose  to  a  height  of  three  thousand 
feet,  their  brown  summits  bathed  in  a  glorious  light  of 
crimson  and  gold  by  the  beams  of  the  rising  sun.  In  some 
places  palms  lined  the  beach,  and  in  many  parts  of  the 
city  their  dark  green  fronds  towered  above  the  houses,  con- 
trasting prettily  with  the  white-washed  walls.  Market 
boats  and  steam  launches  were  moving  about  over  the 
water,  and  in  the  port,  which  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
bay  from  the  town,  were  several  large  vessels  at  anchor. 

After  breakfast  the  four  friends  accepted  an  invitation 
from  Captain  Thompson  to  spend  the  day  ashore  with  him, 
and  so,  having  donned  light  clothing,  for  it  was  warmer 
ashore  than  on  the  "  Kisanga,"  they  all  got  into  the  ship's 
gig  and  were  soon  alongside  the  heavy  stone  steps  in  the 
lee  of  the  breakwater  that  extends  like  a  wide  pier  far  out 
into  the  bay.  There  was  a  good  deal  of  stir  and  activity 
here,  for  this  is  the  business  portion  of  the  town  ;  produce 
was  being  landed  from  small  sailing  vessels  that  had  come 
from  other  islands  of  the  group  ;  men  were  shoveling  coal 
into  sacks  and  lowering  them  into  barges  to  be  towed 
alongside  the  waiting  steamers ;  cargo  was  being  landed 
from  some  steamers  and  shipped  away  by  others ;  coarse, 
broad-shouldered  women  were  carrying  heavy  burdens  on 
their  heads,  and  carriages  were  in  waiting  to  earn-  pas- 
sengers around  the  bay  to  Las  Palmas. 

The  agent  of  the  coal  company  saw  the  little  party 
coming  and  met  them  on  the  pier  and  after  a  few  minutes' 
conversation  selected  a  two-seated  carriage  to  take  them  to 
town  and  gave  the  driver  his  instructions  in  Spanish  so 
that  there  might  be  no  mistake.  Mr.  Schiff,  with  the 
sagacity  of  a  world-wide  traveler,  chose  a  seat  by  the 
driver,  and  had  by  far  the  finest  view.  After  leaving  the 
port  the  road  skirts  the  bay  for  a  couple  of  miles,  giving  a 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

delightful  view  of  the  harbor  and  shipping  on  the  one  side, 
and  the  bare,  brown  rocky  hills  on  the  other.  As  they 
drew  near  to  Las  Palmas  they  passed  a  large,  new  hotel, 
which  is  being  put  np  by  British  capitalists  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  winter  tourists.  The  building  is  a  handsome 
one,  and  the  grounds  are  adorned  with  almost  every  variety 
of  palm  and  tropical  plant,  making  it  a  delightful  home  in 
which  to  spend  a  few  months.  During  the  dark  and  dreary 
winter  of  the  frozen  North  this  far-awray  isle  dwells  in  per- 
petual sunshine,  and  the  soft  breeze  gently  rustles  the 
drooping  fronds  of  the  palms,  while  the  delicate  perfume  of 
flowers  fills  the  air,  and  their  rich  colors  charm  the  eye. 

Las  Palmas  is  built  in  a  broad  hollow  between  the 
hills,  with  a  small  river,  spanned  by  iron  bridges,  running 
through  it.  The  houses  are  mostly  of  stone,  with  thick, 
heavy  walls,  which  look  rather  dull  and  dreary  from  the 
street.  Most  of  the  houses  open  upon  an  interior  court, 
which  is  planted  with  fruit  trees  and  flowers,  with,  per- 
chance, a  fountain  in  the  centre  and  vines  clambering  over 
the  walls.  There  are  excellent  shops  in  the  town  which 
offer  good  assortments  of  dry  goods,  groceries,  hardware, 
wines  and  various  other  merchandise.  A  cable  connects 
the  island  with  Cadiz,  in  Spain,  and  thence  with  the  rest 
of  Europe ;  the  rate  is  sixty  cents  a  word  to  any  of  the 
principal  European  capitals.  There  is  a  small  but  pleasant 
park  in  the  centre  of  the  town  where  the  people  promenade 
in  the  cool  of  the  day,  and  which  gives  the  ladies  an  op- 
portunity to  show  themselves,  while  it  forms  an  excellent 
meeting-place  for  friends.  As  the  inhabitants  are  so  shut 
in  to  themselves  on  their  little  island,  they  must  of 
necessity  take  a  deep  interest  in  one  another,  and  as  a  con- 
sequence gossip  and  scandal  are  freely  indulged  in.  The 
retail  trade,  and  all  mechanical  and  agricultural  labor  is  in 
the  hands  of  the  Spanish  natives,  but  the  foreign  trade  is 
conducted  principally  by  the  English. 


MR.    SINCLAIR 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

Our  friends  alighted  at  the  Hotel  Royal,  which  is  on 
the  main  street  of  the  town,  and  walking  through  the 
office  into  the  interior  courtyard,  took  seats  around  a  small 
table  and  called  for  wine,  coffee  and  cigars.  Mr.  King  was 
what  the  English  call  a  "total  abstainer,"  and  so  while  he 
sipped  his  coffee  the  other  four  discussed  the  wine.  Fif- 
teen years  ago  the  passengers  for  a  West  Africa  port  must 
drink  when  invited  to,  or  fight ;  now,  however,  one  may 
enjoy  as  large  a  liberty  of  individual  action  as  any  where 
else  in  the  world,  always  provided  of  course  that  he  does 
not  thrust  his  ideas  upon  others.  A  moderate  amount  of 
wine  of  fair  quality  is  produced  on  the  island,  and  some 
little  is  exported.  On  the  other  hand  considerable  is  im- 
ported from  Spain,  and  how  much  mixing  and  doctoring 
this  is  subjected  to  outsiders  are  not  informed.  But  little 
brandy  is  drunk  except  by  Englishmen. 

Quite  a  number  of  tourists  were  lounging  about  the 
courtyard  in  an  absent-minded,  lazy  sort  of  way.  They  did 
not  seem  to  care  for  reading  or  conversation,  lolling  about 
with  their  eyes  half  shut  they  appeared  to  be  trying  to  put  in 
the  time,  apparently  with  fair  success.  They  were  mostly 
men  past  the  prime  of  life,  who  were  either  globe 
trotters  "  doing "  this  place  along  with  the  rest,  or  else 
men  who  had  "  made  their  pile  "  and  had  come  out  here  to 
spend  some  of  it.  It  was  noticeable  that  there  were  but 
one  or  two  ladies  among  them. 

"  What  are  these  old  game-cocks  doing  out  here  by 
themselves  do  you  suppose?"  inquired  Mr.  Schiff  in  an 
understone. 

"  Trying  to  get  away  from  the  folks  at  home,  I 
reckon,"  responded  the  Captain. 

This  class  of  men  are  in  the  habit  of  looking  upon 
African  traders  as  an  inferior  sort  of  animal,  and  it  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at  that  our  friends  held  them  in  ligdit  esteem. 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SEXEGAMBIA. 


Energetic  men  of  affairs  would  not  long  be  comfort- 
able in  such  an  atmosphere,  and  so  it  was  not  long  before 
our  friends  were  rattling  through  the  city  in  a  couple  of 
carriages  drawn  by  three  horses  harnessed  abreast  to  each, 
bound  for  a  ride  over  the  mountains.  The  road,  which 
was  macadamized,  was  in  splendid  order,  and  followed  the 
rocky  stream  through  the  valley  and  then  up  the  mountain 
slope.  In  the  valley  were  many  fields  of  bananas,  with 
date  palms  growing  near  the  river-bank.  Terraced  gar- 
dens were  built  against  the  hill-side,  and  these  were  planted 
with  pineapples,  bananas,  figs,  oranges,  lemons,  grapes 
and  onions.  The  onion  may  be  classed  as  a  fruit  in  the 
Canaries  for  the  people  eat  them  as  we  would  apples. 

Banana  raising  is  profitable  to  the  islanders,  but  un- 
fortunately the  amount  of  land  suited  to  their  culture  is 
small.  The}-  require  a  deep  and  fertile  soil,  and  even  then 
artificial  fertilization  is  desirable  ;  this  of  course  is  always 
expensive,  and  doubly  so  in  an  out-of-the-way  place  like 
the  Canaries  with  little  foreign  commerce  and  no  manu- 
factures. The  variety  raised  is  one  of  the  short  stocky 
kinds  with  bunches  of  medium-sized  yellow  fruit.  The 
flavor  is  excellent,  being  more  spicy  and  having  a  greater 
"  bouquet "  than  those  grown  on  the  rich  lands  near  the 
equator.  When  shipped,  a  single  bunch  is  put  in  a  long 
common  splint  basket,  made  expressly  for  this  purpose, 
and  carefully  packed  with  the  dried  leaves  to  prevent 
bruising  of  the  fruit ;  a  piece  of  coarse  sacking  is  then  tied 
over  the  mouth  of  the  basket,  the  stem  protruding  a  few 
inches  through  a  hole  in  the  centre.  They  are  not  stowed 
in  the  hold  of  the  steamer,  but  are  stacked  up  in  great 
piles  on  the  deck  and  seldom  fail  to  carry  well.  These 
bananas  bring  from  one  dollar  and  a  quarter  to  one  dollar 
and  a  half  a  bunch  in  M arsailles  ;  of  this  sum  twenty- 
five  cents  goes  to  the  steamer  for  freight,  twenty-five  cents 
for  basket,  packing  and  commission,  leaving  from  seventy- 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

five  cents  to  one  dollar  a  bunch  to  be  divided  between  the 
shipper  and  the  grower. 

The  date  palm  is  never  grown  in  an  orchard,  and  how 
profitable  it  might  be  to  make  a  regular  business  of  raising 
them,  is  not  easy  to  say.  They  love  to  grow  where  they 
can  "  keep  their  toes  always  moist "  and  seem  to  thrive 
well  on  the  borders  of  streams,  or  in  courtyards  and  gar- 
dens where  the  soil  is  irrigated.  When  once  they  come 
into  bearing  they  require  little  care  or  cultivation  beyond 
the  cutting  and  carrying  away  the  fruit,  and  if  there  was 
enough  suitable  land  to  make  a  plantation  of  them  they 
ought  to  pay  well.  They  come  into  bearing  in  from  ten 
to  twelve  years  after  planting.  The  appearance  of  a  palm 
tree  is  sometimes  a  disappointment  to  new-comers  from  the 
North,  for  when  seen  close  by  it  is  somewhat  coarse  and 
rough,  but  if  beheld  at  a  little  distance,  so  that  some  of  the 
details  are  lost  in  the  general  outline,  it  is  one  of  the  most 
graceful  and  striking  objects  in  the  vegetable  kingdom. 
When  those  who  have  spent  some  years  in  the  tropics 
return  to  their  Northern  home,  the  graceful  palm,  waving 
its  feathen-  arms  in  the  brilliant  sunlight,  is  constantly  in 
their  minds,  and  its  enchanting  beauty  is  continually 
alluring  them  to  return. 

Considerable  maize  is  grown  in  the  Canaries,  which  is 
surprising  when  we  take  into  account  the  fact  that  much 
more  valuable  crops  can  be  grown  on  the  same  land.  An 
acre  of  bananas  will  yield  fruit  worth  more  than  twenty 
times  the  value  of  the  grain  grown  on  the  same  piece  of 
ground  ;  and  oranges,  figs,  grapes  and  onions  would  yield 
from  five  to  ten  times  as  much.  True,  these  crops, 
especially  the  bananas  and  onions,  might  need  some  extra 
fertilization,  but  it  would  without  doubt  be  better  to  buy 
the  guano  and  nitrates  needed,  and  raise  the  more  profit- 
able crop.  Corn  is  doubtless  needed  for  feeding  purposes 
and  it  might  be  that  none  is  brought  to  the  islands    for 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

sale,  and  so  the  people  are  compelled  to  grow  it  or  go 
without.  No  doubt  a  market  might  be  found  here  for 
American  food  products  and  even  manufactured  goods ; 
the  chief  difficulty  would  be  that  the  wine  and  fruits  which 
are  all  the  islanders  can  give  in  exchange,  may  be  had  more 
cheaply  from  our  own  California  and  Florida,  so  that  the 
commerce  between  the  Canaries  and  the  United  States  will 
never  amount  to  much. 

Even  as  a  winter  resort  there  is  but  little  to  attract 
Americans  except  the  old-fashioned  Spanish  civilization, 
and  enough  of  this  can  be  found  in  the  by-ways  of  Mexico 
without  the  inconvenience  and  hardships  of  a  long  ocean 
voyage  at  a  stormy  season  of  the  year.  All  that  there  is 
pleasant  in  the  climate  may  be  found  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, and  these  islands  are  not  likely  to  be  visited  by 
Americans  except  by  an  occasional  tourist  out  of  mere 
curiosity.  At  the  present  time  the  management  of  the 
African  Lines  are  trying  to  call  attention  to  Las  Palmas  as 
a  sanitarium  for  all  who  find  the  winters  of  Great  Britain 
too  severe  or  tedious,  and  no  doubt  it  is  far  more  agreeable 
than  London ;  but  there  are  a  multitude  of  places  along 
the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  that  have  almost  as  mild 
a  climate  and  are  far  more  accessible,  for  it  must  ever  re- 
main true  that  any  person  who  can  endure  the  voyage  to 
and  from  the  Canaries  in  the  class  of  steamers  provided  by 
the  African  companies  could  get  comfortably  through  an 
English  winter  with  reasonable  care. 

As  the  carriages  ascended  the  mountain  side  the  sun's 
rays  began  to  be  felt,  but  the  pure  fresh  air  from  the  ocean 
tempered  the  heat  and  made  the  ride  most  enjoyable.  The 
steeper  hillsides  were  bare  of  vegetation  except  a  few 
coarse  shrubs,  but  the  gentler  slopes  had  been  terraced  and 
planted  with  various  crops.  The  top  of  the  mountain  is  a 
broad  table-land,  with  a  good  soil,  and  everywhere  care- 
fully cultivated  ;  the  prospect  is  far  more  pleasing  than  it 


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GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

is  near  the  sea-shore  and  little  villages  or  clusters  of 
houses  thickly  dot  the  landscape.  Many  of  these  houses 
are  chiseled  from  the  rock,  or  more  strictly  in  the  rock, 
veritable  cave  dwellings,  and  in  this  dry  climate  are  no 
doubt  cool  and  comfortable. 

One  of  the  industries  of  the  island  is  the  cutting  of 
drip-stones  to  be  exported  to  various  countries,  more 
especially  to  Western  Africa.  These  drip-stones  are  shaped 
like  a  deep  bowl,  with  a  large  square  top,  and  hold  two  or 
three  pail-fulls  of  water  each.  They  are  chiseled  from 
blocks  of  lava,  and  are  used  everywhere  on  the  African 
coast  to  filter  water.  For  this  purpose  they  are  admirably 
adopted,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  any  of  the  host  of  patent 
filters  are  equal  to  them.  The  sides  of  these  huge  bowls 
are  three  or  four  inches  in  thickness,  and  the  water  slowly 
percolates  through  these  solid  stone  sides,  leaving  every 
particle  of  sediment  behind.  Once  a  week  they  need  to  be 
rubbed  well  on  the  inside  with  a  scrubbing  brush,  and 
thoroughly  washed  out,  which  is  an  easy  thing  to  do  be- 
cause of  the  large  open  top  ;  by  this  means  it  is  possible  to 
have  perfectly  pure  water.  If  there  is  fear  of  the  water 
containing  animal  poison,  or  the  germs  of  typhoid  fever, 
cholera,  dysentery  or  other  diseases,  the  bowl  may  be  filled 
with  bone  charcoal  which  will  purify  the  water  even  better 
than  if  it  was  boiled. 

It  is  quite  surprising  that  here  on  the  high  table-land, 
apparently  upon  the  top  ridge  of  the  island,  there  should 
be  a  bright  little  mountain  stream,  darting  merrily  along 
by  the  roadside,  its  clear  waters  flashing  in  the  brilliant 
sunlight.  It  is  a  useful  little  stream,  too,  for  a  channel  has 
been  cut  for  it  in  the  solid  rock,  and  here  standing  up  to 
their  knees  in  the  rushing  water  our  friends  saw  the  wives 
and  daughters  of  the  mountaineers  busily  washing  their 
own  clothes  and  those  of  the  town  people.  Jolly,  merry 
groups  they  were,  laughing  and  talking  as  they  soaped  the 

13 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

clothes  and  pounded  them  upon  the  rocks.  Mr.  Schiff 
was  especially  interested  ;  he  was  always  fond  of  the  ladies, 
with  little  regard  to  their  nationality,  for  as  he  truly  said 
he  was  himself  "  a  cosmopolitan,"  and  the  sight  of  the 
merry  washerwomen  caused  him  to  grow  quite  enthusiastic. 

This  method  of  clothes-washing  is  universally  prac- 
ticed, not  only  here,  but  also  on  the  Coast.  In  Africa, 
where  rocks  are  seldom  found,  an  empty  box  or  a  piece  of 
plank  is  used  instead.  Standing  near  the  margin  of  the 
stream  or  pond,  the  garment  after  being  dipped  in  the 
water  is  thoroughly  soaped  and  then  pounded  with  con- 
siderable force  upon  the  top  of  the  box  or  plank  ;  the  soap- 
ing and  pounding  is  continued  until  the  linen  is  clean, 
when  it  is  dipped  a  few  times  in  the  water  to  free  it  from 
soap,  and  it  is  then  spread  over  a  bush  to  rest  itself  and  dry 
out.  The  idea  of  rubbing  the  clothes  to  loosen  the  dirt 
does  not  seem  to  commend  itself  to  the  people  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  Atlantic,  or  else  they  have  not  thought 
of  it.  It  must  be  admitted  that  this  mode  of  washing  does 
not  injure  the  fabric  any  more  than  our  way. 

Some  of  the  wealthier  citizens  of  Las  Palmas  have 
built  country  homes  on  these  breezy  heights,  to  which  they 
retreat  during  the  hot  months,  but  the}'  find  it  lonesome 
and  so  are  inclined  to  remain  in  the  town  as  long  as  they 
can.  Our  party  alighted  at  a  little  country  inn  situated  in 
a  small  village  on  the  table-land,  but  the}'  found  the  enter- 
tainment poor ;  and  so  while  their  horses  were  resting  they 
walked  about  and  smoked  the  cigars  they  had  brought 
with  them.  It  was  nearly  3  p.  m.  when  they  reached 
the  Hotel  Royal,  and  they  were  well  prepared  to  do  justice 
to  the  dinner  that  was  waiting  for  them.  After  dinner 
they  sat  for  an  hour  in  the  garden  sipping  their  coffee  and 
smoking,  while  they  discussed  the  islands  and  their  social 
and  industrial  development. 

14 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

Mr.  Sinclair  was  of  the  opinion  that  the  city  might 
grow  some,  especially  if  the  number  of  tourists  should  con- 
siderably increase,  but  that  the  country  districts  might  be 
expected  to  remain  practically  the  same.  Mr.  Alexander 
saw  little  hope  that  manufactories  could  be  established,  for 
there  was  little  raw  material  and  no  fuel  on  the  island. 
Mr.  Schiff,  for  his  part,  thought  the  islands  might  as  well 
remain  as  they  were.  Mr.  King  thought  a  narrow-gauge 
railroad  oyer  the  moutain  might  be  advantageous,  and  if 
"  observation  cars  "  were  put  on  the  line  it  would  be  a 
great  attraction  to  winter  visitors,  who  usually  have  plenty 
of  money  and  could  afford  to  ride  every  day.  Captain 
Thompson  thought  the  question  of  fuel  a  serious  one  ;  in 
his  opinion  the  prosperity  of  the  island  lay  in  its  making 
every  effort  to  secure  the  steamer  trade,  by  making  the  port 
charges  light  and  furnishing  every  kind  of  fresh  provisions 
in  ample  quantity  and  at  moderate  prices,  and  presenting 
every  inducement  to  passengers  to  land  and  enjoy  them- 
selves for  a  day  ashore. 

"  On  an  average,"  said  he,  "  one  steamer  a  day  passes 
here  going  each  way  ;  if  these  could  ail  be  induced  to  call 
it  would  be  two  steamers  a  day  throughout  the  vear.  Five 
hundred  dollars  would  be  a  small  amount  for  each  steamer 
to  spend,  besides  the  coal  bill  ;  counting  out  Sunday  that 
would  be  six  hundred  and  twenty-six  steamers  a  year,  and 
three  hundred  and  thirteen  thousand  dollars,  which  would 
be  enough  to  make  these  frugal  islanders  rich." 

As  no  one  seemed  ready  to  profit  by  their  advice,  the 
little  group  took  a  walk  up  and  down  the  business  street, 
called  at  the  office  of  the  agent,  and  then  walked  down  to 
the  landing  where  the  "  Kisanga's "  steam  launch  was 
waiting  for  them,  and  by  5  i».  M.  they  were  on  board  the 
ship.  Half  an  hour  later  all  the  bills  for  supplies  had  been 
receipted  for,  the  passengers  counted  to  see  if  they  were  all 
on  board,  and  with  the  decks  cluttered  up  with  heaps  of 

15 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

coal,  baskets  of  cabbage,  carrots,  turnips,  lettuce,  oranges, 
bananas,  coops  of  chickens  and  ducks,  a  couple  of  small 
oxen  and  various  odds  and  ends,  the  order  was  given  to 
"  heave  anchor,"  and  just  as  the  setting  sun  kissed  the 
western  ocean  the  "  Kisanga  "  passed  the  light-house  and 
turned  her  prow  to  the  southward  along  the  eastern  coast 
of  the  island. 

The  next  morning  there  was  nothing  in  sight  but  sea 
and  sky  and  the  ship's  company  settled  themselves  down 
to  a  sea-faring  life.  A  double  canvass  awning  was  put  up 
over  the  quarter-deck,  and  smaller  awnings  over  the  fore- 
castle, bridge  and  engineers'  quarters.  When  the  wTatch 
changes  at  4  p.  m.  the  hose  is  brought  out  and  the 
decks  washed  down,  which  not  only  keeps  them  sweet  and 
clean  but  in  a  measure  preserves  them  from  the  effects  of 
the  sun,  for  south  of  the  Canaries  no  waves  will  be  high 
enough  to  wash  over  the  sides.  As  no  one  can  sleep 
through  all  the  racket  of  washing-down  and  holy-stoning 
the  decks,  it  is  the  custom  of  experienced  travelers  to  gird 
themselves  with  a  towel  and  come  forth  at  this  early  hour 
and  let  the  sailors  turn  the  hose  on  them.  The  water  is 
pretty  cool,  but  it  is  refreshing,  and  after  a  good  rub-down 
with  a  coarse  towel,  and  a  "wee  glass  of  bitters,"  your 
tropical  African  voyager  is  ready  for  his  pipe  and  a  walk 
up  and  down  the  deck  until  breakfast-time. 

It  is  customary  not  only  on  ship-board  but  in  all  the 
factories  on  the  Coast  to  wear  in  the  morning  only  a  pair 
of  pajamas  and  a  singlet,  and  to  be  fully  dressed  during  the 
afternoon  and  evenings  only.  This  neglige  custom  no 
doubt  originated  when  such  a  thing  as  a  white  lady's 
visiting  the  Coast  was  quite  unthought  of  ;  now  that  they 
are  occasionally  passengers  on  the  steamers,  the  men  feel 
that  their  liberty  is  sadly  curtailed,  but  even  with  one  or 
two  ladies  on  board  your  typical  "  old  coaster  "  will  walk 
about  the  deck  in  his  pajamas  and  singlet,  not  the  least 

16 


MR.    ALEXANDER 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

abashed.  This  manner  of  dressing,  rude  as  it  may  seem, 
is  well  suited  to  the  climate.  At  the  factories  most  of  the 
work  is  done  in  the  morning ;  the  afternoons  are  given  up 
to  writing,  visiting  and  other  light  employments,  and  the 
cool  sea  breeze  makes  a  greater  quantity  of  clothing 
desirable. 

While  the  "  Kisanga  "  is  steaming  along  the  western 
shore  of  the  Sahara  Desert,  let  us  take  a  look  at  the  great 
continent  we  are  about  to  visit.  Even-  one  has  a  general 
idea  that  it  is  a  vast  expanse  of  territory  made  up  mostly 
of  deserts  and  wild  niggers,  and  Mr.  Stanley  has  added 
the  impression  that  it  is  a  Dark  continent,  by  which  term 
many  get  the  impression  that,  like  the  world  of  woe,  it 
must  be  always  night  there.  Africa  contains  one-fifth  of  all 
the  land  on  the  planet,  and  this  land  lies  wholly  within  the 
warm  or  temperate  zones.  Large  portions  of  Asia  and 
America  are  frozen  solid  the  greater  portion  of  the  year, 
are  quite  worthless  and  always  will  be  ;  but  every  square 
foot  of  Africa  is  warmed  by  an  unclouded  sun,  and  may  be 
made  to  nourish  every  sort  of  vegetation  upon  which 
animal  life  depends.  So  far  from  its  being  a  Dark  Conti- 
nent in  any  physical  sense  of  the  word,  it  is,  throughout 
its  entire  extent,  bathed  in  the  most  brilliant  sunshine  ever 
seen  in  this  fair  world  of  ours.  To  intelligent  spirits, 
speeding  through  space  in  their  journeys  from  world  to 
world  of  the  vast  universe  of  which  we  are  a  part,  it  must 
appear  as  a  great  Kohinoor  flashing  back  the  light  of  that 
mighty  sun  which  holds  the  solar  system  in  its  grasp  ;  or, 
perchance,  as  the  revolution  of  the  globe  brings  it  into 
shadow,  it  may  look  like  a  vast  emerald  as  the  rays  of  the 
declining  sun  fall  aslant  its  forests  and  jungles.  Africa  is 
the  richest  and  most  highly  favored  continent  of  earth,  and 
is  destined  to  become  a  mighty  factor  in  every  problem 
which  affects  our  race.  As  an  inheritance  is  withheld  from 
a  son  until  he  be  of  sufficient  age  to  rightly  manage  and 

17 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

care  for  it ;  so  Africa  has  been  kept  from  the  nations  until 
the>"  could  rightly  appreciate  so  great  a  gift,  and  wisely  use 
so  vast  and  valuable  a  possession.  The  signs  of  the  times 
indicate  that  God  is  ready  to  give  it  to  those  who  are 
willing  to  go  up  and  possess  it,  and  the  next  few  years 
will  witness  the  greatest  land  speculations  ever  known 
in  the  history  of  our  earth.  As  soon  as  men  once 
realize  that  a  vast  and  fertile  continent  is  to  be  had  for  the 
taking,  there  will  be  a  rush  of  emigration  thither  un- 
paralleled in  the  history  of  mankind.  The  nations  of 
Europe  are  already  setting  their  hands  upon  the  prize,  and 
individual  and  corporate  effort  will  follow  closely  behind 
them.  This  great  continent  is  soon  to  be  opened  up 
throughout  its  length  and  breadth  to  the  commerce  of  the 
world,  and  those  who  come  first  will  receive  the  choicest 
share  and  get  possession  of  the  most  paying  routes. 

In  looking  at  the  continent  as  a  whole  we  see  that  it 
has  three  sides,  or  great  stretches  of  coast-line,  and  is 
everywhere  bounded  by  navigable  waters.  The  first  of 
these  is  from  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar  to  Cape  Guardafui, 
and  may  be  called  the  North  Coast.  This  great  line  of 
coast,  bordering  as  it  does  the  Mediterranean  and  Red  Seas, 
and  adjacent  to  the  oldest  civilizations  and  empires  of  the 
earth,  may  be  looked  upon  as  practically  the  south  of 
Europe.  It  is  even  now  valuable,  and  will  become 
increasingly  so,  but  it  is  too  far  away  from  the  great 
heart  of  the  continent  to  serve  as  a  base  for  tapping  the 
riches  of  the  interior.  This  entire  strip  of  coast-line  is 
backed  by  deserts,  much  of  which  is  fertile  and  will  be 
made  to  produce  abundantly  when  in  the  future  irrigation 
works  are  built  and  artesian  wells  are  sunk. 

The  second  great  side  of  the  continent  extends  from 
Cape  Guardafui  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  is  known 
as  the  East  Coast.  The  country  along  this  entire  coast- 
line of  over  three  thousand  miles  is  extremely  valuable, 

iS 


GRAND  CAXARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

having  a  rich  soil,  abundance  of  moisture,  numerous  rivers, 
and  but  a  few  hundred  miles  inland,  magnificent  fresh  water 
lakes.  Already  the  southern  end  of  this  district  is  well 
settled  with  white  colonists  and  possesses  a  modern  civil- 
ization of  a  high  order.  This  coast  is  too  far  from  the 
great  Soudan  to  serve  as  a  base  for  developing  that  region, 
and  its  very  geographical  position  brings  it  nearer  to  the 
southern  coast  of  Asia  than  to  the  great  nations  of  the 
north. 

The  principal  development  of  this  enormous  continent 
must  take  place  from  the  West  Coast.  This  vast  section 
of  coast-line  extends  for  seven  thousand  miles  along  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  the  Strait 
of  Gibraltar,  and  is  as  long  as  the  other  two  sides  put  to- 
gether. This  great  side  of  Africa  is  open  and  free  both  to 
the  commerce  of  Europe  and  the  two  Americas.  It 
possesses  two  of  the  greatest  rivers  of  the  world,  and  such 
is  its  peculiar  shape  that  it  will  give  easy  and  ready  access 
to  the  whole  of  the  vast  interior.  Here  then  is  a  base  of 
operations  for  those  vast  industrial  enterprises  that  are  to 
bring  a  continent  beneath  our  sway  and  create  homes  for 
hundreds  of  millions  of  our  race  in  the  years  to  come. 
Here  is  a  theatre  where  bold  and  far-reaching  minds  may 
display  their  powers  either  to  benefit  their  fellow-men  or 
build  up  enormous  fortunes  for  themselves.  A  few  sug- 
gestions as  to  what  may  be  done  will  appear  as  we  proceed 
with  our  narrative. 

The  evening  of  the  second  da}'  after  leaving  Las 
Palmas,  Captain  Thompson  and  his  friends  were  sitting 
under  the  awning  near  the  door  of  his  chart-room  enjoying 
their  pipes.  The  "Kisanga"  was  heading  for  Cape  Blanco 
and  the  conversation  turned  upon  the  scheme  for  flooding 
the  south-western  portion  of  the  Sahara.  This  idea  is  not 
the  product  of -  some  disordered  brain  as  many  ignorantlv 
assert,  it  is  only  restoring  things  to  their  original  condition. 

19 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

When  Rome  and  Carthage  were  in  the  height  of  their 
power  this  portion  of  the  Sahara  was  an  inland  sea  with  a 
fertile  coast-line,  and  connected  with  the  ocean  by  a  narrow 
strait  much  as  the  Mediterranean  is  to-day.  This  narrow 
strait  was  closed  with  sand  thrown  up  by  the  surf  and  the 
project  is  to  take  away  this  sand  and  let  the  water  flow  in 
again.  This  will  not  flood  the  entire  desert,  but  only  a 
small  portion  of  it. 

"  What  special  advantages  may  we  expect  to  derive 
from  this  inflow  of  the  ocean?'1  inquired  Mr.  Sinclair. 

"  Quite  a  number,"  replied  Mr.  King.  "In  the  first 
place  it  would  give  us  communications  with  the  extreme 
northern  portion  of  Senegambia,  and  from  the  south-eastern 
shore  of  this  inland  sea  a  railway  could  be  built  at  small 
expense  right  through  the  whole  length  of  the  Soudan  ;  or 
a  net-work  of  railways  to  the  Kong  mountains  on  the  south, 
and  the  Nile  on  the  east,  could  be  made  to  extend  to  every 
important  point  in  the  interior  of  North  Central  Africa. 
Then  the  influence  of  this  large  body  of  water  would  be 
felt  in  the  climate  of  that  whole  region.  You  know  as 
well  as  I  can  tell  you  that  Senegambia  is  one  of  the  hottest 
countries  in  the  world,  and  that  her  climate  comes  on  the 
wings  of  the  trade-winds  from  the  north-east ;  place  this 
great  bod}'  of  water  in  the  south-western  portion  of  the 
Desert  and  her  climate  would  at  once  be  modified  ;  it  would 
be  both  cooler  and  more  moist ;  this  is  all  Senegambia 
needs  to  make  it  one  of  the  most  desirable  countries  in  the 
world  to  live  in." 

"  Many  claim  that  this  project  if  successfully  carried 
out  would  make  the  climate  of  the  Mediterranean  coast 
much  colder,"  observed  Mr.  Alexander. 

"  On  the  contrary,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "  it  would  make 
it  warmer.  I  was  in  the  Mediterranean  last  winter  and  I 
never  suffered  so  much   with   the   cold    in  my  life.     The 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

Mediterranean  countries  will  yet  be  obliged  to  flood  the 
Sahara  in  sheer  self-defense." 

"  How  do  you  make  that  out?"  inquired  Mr.  Schiff. 

"  You  are  well  aware,"  continued  Mr.  King,  "  that 
heated  air  rises,  and  cold  air  comes  in  to  take  its  place. 
You  also  know  that  the  prevailing  winds  bring  us  our 
weather.  In  my  own  land  along  the  Atlantic  sea-board,  a 
south-west  wind  indicates  warm  weather ;  a  north-west 
wind  cold  weather,  an  easterly  wind  rain ;  these  winds 
bring  us  weather  characteristic  of  the  regions  from  which 
they  come.  Now  when  the  heated  air  rises  from  the 
Sahara,  what  kind  of  wind  is  it  likely  to  create  ?  " 

"  A  north  wind,"  promptly  replied  Captain  Thompson. 

"Just  so  ;  and  a  north  wind  is  a  cold  one,  and  brings 
cold  weather  with  it.  If  the  air  from  the  heated  sand 
plains  could  be  induced  to  blow  towards  Europe  it  would 
be  greatly  appreciated,  but  instead  of  that  the  northeast 
trades  make  it  sweep  over  Senegambia  where  there  is  heat 
enough  already." 

"  Why  don't  the  air  rush  in  from  Egypt  and  the  Sou- 
dan to  fill  the  vacuum  you  speak  of?"  queried  Mr.  Schiff. 

"  Because,"  answered  Mr.  King,  "  the  air  from  the 
north  is  colder  and  heavier ;  the  air  in  the  countries  you 
name,  while  not  hot,  is  warm,  and  also  rising ;  but  the  air 
over  the  north  of  Europe  is  cold,  and  as  it  sweeps  across 
the  Alps  and  Appennines  it  becomes  colder  still,  and  makes 
the  dreaded  'northers'  of  the  Mediterranean  countries." 

"  I  admit  your  argument  is  a  good  one  so  far  as 
these  countries  are  concerned,"  replied  Mr.  Sinclair,  "but 
if  this  cold  air  is  not  permitted  to  escape  from  the  centre 
and  north  of  Europe,  will  not  these  countries  become  much 
colder  than  they  are  at  present?  " 

"  On  the  contrary,  they  will  become  warmer.  When 
this  cold  air  starts  on  its  southern  journey,  air  still  further 
north  takes  its  place,  so  that  the  whole  of  Europe  and  the 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

north   of  Africa  gets  its  climate  from   the  north  ;  this    I 
hold  to  be  undesirable. " 

"  If  Europe  is  to  receive  its  climate  from  the  south," 
inquired  Mr.  Alexander,  "will  it  not  be  burned  up  in 
Summer?  " 

"Not  at  all,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "the  sun  is  then 
north,  and  his  power  is  exerted  from  that  direction  ;  then 
the  cool  breezes  from  the  Atlantic  and  the  Mediterranean 
will  be  welcomed  by  all,  just  as  these  same  breezes  are 
agreeable  in  winter  for  their  warmth  when  the  sun  exerts 
his  power  from  the  south." 

Mr.  Schiff  thought  they  were  wandering  from  the 
subject  and  he  wanted  to  know  if  Captain  Thompson 
thought  the  Sahara  scheme  would  pay. 

"  That  depends  upon  what  you  mean  by  '  pay,' ' 
answered  the  Captain.  "  I  think  the  benefits  it  would 
confer  upon  mankind  would  be  greater  than  those  which 
came  from  building  the  Suez  Canal  ;  but  I  do  not  think 
the  enterprise  could  be  made  to  pay  a  dividend  in  cash, 
unless  the  company  be  given  all  the  land  it  can  reclaim 
upon  the  borders  of  the  new  sea,  and  also  the  exclusive 
right  to  all  the  carrying  trade  in  and  out,  and  the  building 
of  all  railroads  from  its  borders  into  adjacent  countries. 
This  is  too  much  for  any  company  to  do,  and  it  would  be 
far  better  to  have  a  harbor  built  and  the  canal  dug  by  some 
stable  government,  and  leave  the  rest  to  individual  enter- 
prise ;  or,  several  governments  might  combine  and  do  the 
work  through  an  international  commission.  Nor  is  it 
necessary  that  everything  in  the  world  should  be  made  to 
'  pay  '  in  the  commercial  sense  of  that  word.  The  British 
navy  pays  no  dividend,  yet  we  would  not  wish  to  be  with- 
out it ;  your  great  bridge,  Mr.  King,  between  Brooklyn 
and  New  York  does  not  pay,  and  yet  I  hear  that  you  are 
thinking  of  building  another ;  so  flooding  the  Sahara 
might   not  pay  the  government    that  did  the  work,    any 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

more  than  other  public  improvements  do,  but  it  would 
open  up  vast  possibilities  of  trade  and  development  in 
Northern  Central  Africa,  and  it  would  ameliorate  the 
climate  of  many  countries.  It  would  in  my  judgment  be  of 
far  more  benefit  to  the  world  than  cutting  a  canal  across 
the  isthmus  of  Panama." 

"  That  unfortunate  effort,"  said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  was 
accompanied  by  great  loss  of  life  ;  do  you  think  the  same 
result  would  follow  if  this  plan  was  carried  out  ?' 

"  I  cannot  see  why  there  should  be  the  needless  sacrifice 
of  a  single  human  life,"  responded  the  Captain,  "  this 
desert  coast  is  as  healthy  as  an)'  part  of  the  world,  and 
digging  through  the  sand  is  not  likely  to  develop  malaria 
as  was  the  case  in  the  alluvial  soils  of  the  isthmus." 

"  Where  would  the  workmen  get  their  provisions 
from  ?  "  inquired  Mr.  Sinclair. 

"  Vast  quantities  of  plantains,  yams  and  other  vege- 
tables could  be  brought  from  the  Senegal,  two  days 
steaming  from  here,"  replied  the  Captain,  "while  flour  and 
tinned  goods  could  come  from  America  ;  fresh  meat  might 
be  brought  direct  from  Argentina  in  refrigerator  ships, 
and  the  Canary  Islands  would  be  glad  to  supply  the  salads 
and  fruits." 

Mr.  King  then  spoke  of  the  Senegal  river  and  its 
value  as  a  highway  of  commerce. 

"  This  will  be  a  valuable  river,"  said  he,  "for  devel- 
oping the  commerce  of  this  district,  as  steamboats  such  as 
we  have  upon  our  own  Western  rivers  can  ascend  for 
several  hundred  miles,  but  it  can  never  be  a  great  highway 
for  reaching  the  interior,  for  vessels  drawing  more  than  ten 
or  twelve  feet  cannot  enter." 

"  Besides,"  added  Captain  Thompson,  "  the  climate 
needs  to  be  modified  before  this  country  is  fitted  for  white 
colonists." 

23 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

"  I  have  been  up  the  Senegal,"  said  Mr.  Schiff,  "  as 
far  as  St.  Joseph,  in  the  Gallam  country  ;  the  banks  of  the 
river  are  exceedingly  beautiful ;  in  some  places  there  are 
large  forest  trees,  in  others  thick  jungle,  and  in  other 
places  again  open  grassy  plains  ;  I  do  not  see  why  coffee, 
cotton,  sugar-cane  and  all  kinds  of  tropical  fruits  might 
not  be  grown  in  great  abundance." 

"Senegambia,"  added  Mr.  King,  "  is  in  the  same  lati- 
tude as  Central  America,  and  in  the  hilly  and  mountainous 
regions  of  Guatemala  and  the  other  States,  white  men  find 
no  difficulty  in  living  to  a  good  old  age,  and  why  should 
they  not  do  so  in  the  hilly  regions  of  Senegambia?" 

"  There  is  no  reason,"  responded  Mr.  Schiff,  "  especially 
if  the  heat  were  somewhat  modified,  as  our  friend  the  Cap- 
tain suggests,  by  flooding  a  portion  of  the  Sahara.  In  that 
case  I  do  not  know  of  any  country  in  the  world  where  I 
would  rather  live,  for  it  is  a  beautiful  land  and  so  much 
nearer  England,  France  or  Germany  than  India  is — the 
only  country  with  which  it  can  be  compared." 

It  was  getting  late  and  after  the  Captain  had  looked 
at  the  compass  to  see  if  the  ship  was  heading  right,  our 
friends  separated  and  each  went  to  his  state-room. 

Senegambia  extends  from  the  southern  borders  of  the 
Great  Desert  to  Cape  Verga  in  10  degrees  north  latitude, 
and  interiorward  for  some  five  or  six  hundred  miles,  and  is 
about  as  large  as  France.  Excepting  a  few  bold  head- 
lands the  country  is  level  for  a  distance  of  over  two 
hundred  miles  from  the  sea,  when  the  hills  begin  and 
finally  lead  up  to  the  Kong  Mountains  which  rise  to  a 
height  of  five  or  six  thousand  feet.  The  French  have  a 
large  settlement  on  Goree  Island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sen- 
egal, and  the  English  have  one  on  the  Island  of  St.  Mary 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Gambia,  and  another  on  McCarthy's 
Island  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  up  that  river. 

24 


GRAND  CANARY  AND  SENEGAMBIA. 

No  efforts  have  been  made  to  colonize  Senegambia, 
but  when  the  ocean  shall  be  permitted  to  flow  into  the 
Sahara,  and  railway  communications  opened  through  the 
hill  country,  there  is  no  good  reason  why  coffee  and  sugar 
plantations  should  not  flourish,  and  the  land  support  as 
large  a  population  as  France,  or  even  larger  ;  for  the  soil  is 
rich,  and  there  is  summer  all  the  year. 


25 


Chapter  II 


SIERRA  LEONE. 


f  /"^  lX  the  afternoon  of  the  fourteenth  day  after  leaving 
LJ^lJ     Liverpool  the  color  of  the  sea  began  to  change. 

ll^gffifj  It  was  no  longer,  a  deep,  clear  blue,  but  a  dirty 
yellow  color  and  appeared  to  carry  in  suspension 
much  sediment ;  leaves  of  the  pandanus  and  sprouts  of  the 
mangrove  occasionallv  floated  bv,  and  after  a  while  a  low 
dark  streak  of  vegetation  appeared  on  the  eastern  horizon 
— the  advanced  picket-line  of  the  great  continent  of  Africa. 
During  the  voyage  hither  the  traveler  feels  that  he  is 
still  in  Europe,  the  land  of  civilization  and  refinement ; 
but  when  once  the  shores  of  the  great  Unknown  Land 
come  into  view,  he  feels  that  his  connection  with  the  land 
of  his  fathers  is  completely  severed,  and  that  now  he  is  in 
a  new  world  ;  and  to  most  souls  there  comes  a  sinking  of 
the  spirit  akin  to  that  experienced  at  the  death  of  a  loved 
one,  as  the  mind  realizes  that  old  associations  have  passed 
away  and  it  is  to  enter  upon  a  new  existence  amid  novel 
scenes  and  an  entirely  different  environment.  But  as  the 
steamer  creeps  forward  on  its  course  and  the  shore-line 
comes  more  distinctly  into  view,  these  feelings  vanish  as 
the  attention  is  drawn  to  the  rich  and  exuberant  vegeta- 
tion, the  tall  and  graceful  palms,  the  water-loving    man- 


26 


SIERRA   LEONE. 

groves,  the  luxuriant  bamboos,  and  the  fishermen  paddling 
by  in  their  light  canoes. 

Captain  Thompson  was  on  the  bridge  directing  the 
course  of  the  vessel,  and  the  four  friends  were  sitting  in  a 
group  under  the  awning  on  the  port  side  of  the  ship, 
watching  with  eager  interest  the  opening  up  of  the  shore- 
line and  the  unfolding  of  the  landscape.  They  puffed 
away  at  their  pipes  in  silence,  apparently  absorbed  in  their 
own  reflections  as  they  beheld  once  again  that  tropic  land 
where  they  had  spent  so  man}-  of  the  best  years  of  their 
life,  extending,  as  it  were,  its  bright  green  arms  to  wel- 
come them  to  its  shores. 

Freetown,  the  capital  of  Sierra  Leone,  is  beautifully 
situated  upon  the  lower  slopes  of  a  mountain  three  thou- 
sand feet  high,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Sierra  Leone 
River,  and  is  surrounded  on  the  east  and  south  by  a  mag- 
nificent amphitheatre  of  hills  and  mountains.  The  slopes 
of  this  mountain  are  covered  with  tall,  coarse  grass,  with 
here  and  there  a  few  trees,  and  for  some  distance  up  is 
dotted  with  neat  little  villages,  and  the  country  residences  of 
foreign  merchants.  Along  the  water  a  heavy  wall  has  been 
built  with  a  pier,  where  passengers  and  cargo  may  be  landed. 
In  a  sheltered  cove  to  the  right  is  a  coaling-station,  and  on 
the  hillside  above  the  town  are  the  barracks  for  the  troops. 
The  appearance  of  Freetown  from  the  river  is  decidedly 
pleasing ;  many  of  the  buildings  are  of  stone,  solidly  and 
substantially  built,  and  the  stranger  will  be  surprised  to 
see  a  little  city  in  a  land  he  was  taught  to  believe  was 
made  up  of  gorillas,  apes,  and  monkey-faced  men.  There 
are  hundreds  of  towns  in  our  own  land  that  are  not  so  well 
built  as  Sierra  Leone,  and  some  of  our  large  cities  do  not 
have  as  wide  and  as  clean  streets. 

Toward  sunset  the  "Kisanga"  had  reached  the  light- 
house which  stands  on  the  Point  on  the  south  of  the  river, 
and  turning  sharply  to  the  left,  and  keeping  close  to  the 

27 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

southern  shore,  she  steamed  up  the  river  to  the  achorage 
in  front  of  the  town.  The  river  widening  near  its  mouth, 
something  like  the  Delaware,  the  northern  shore  is  low, 
flat  and  lined  with  mangroves,  but  the  southern  bank  is 
rocky  and  covered  with  a  rich  growth  of  tropical  vegeta- 
tion. Groves  of  oil-palms,  their  feathery  arms  like  great 
ostrich  plumes,  waving  in  the  gentle  breeze  ;  tall  cotton- 
woods,  covered  with  a  wealth  of  vines  completely  hiding 
the  trunks  and  converting  them  into  great  columns  of 
living  green,  with  here  and  there  patches  of  broad-leaved 
bananas  almost  concealing  from  view  clusters  of  little 
brown  houses  that  nestled  cosily  among  them.  Groups  of 
natives  were  seated  by  the  water-side  enjoying  the  evening 
hour  and  watching  the  ship  as  it  steamed  by  ;  others  were 
walking  along  the  paths  leading  to  the  different  villages, 
and  as  the  vovagers  grazed  from  the  "  Kisanga's  "  decks  the 
landscape  seemed  to  be  instinct  with  life  and  beauty. 
Upon  the  water  were  small  canoes  in  which  men  were 
engaged  in  catching  fish,  while  larger  canoes  were  sailing 
by,  returning  home  after  having  disposed  of  their  produce 
in  the  town. 

Freetown  is  nearly  twenty  miles  up  the  river  from  the 
light-house,  and  it  was  7  p.  M.  when  the  "  Kisanga " 
dropped  anchor  in  the  harbor.  Four  steamers  and  three 
sailing  ships,  besides  some  smaller  craft  were  also  at 
anchor,  as  the  water  is  too  shallow  near  shore  for  them  to 
come  with  safety  up  to  the  pier  which  is  only  used  as  a 
boat-landing. 

The  "  Kisanga  "  was  soon  surrounded  by  a  little  fleet 
of  boats  and  canoes  as  had  been  the  case  at  Grand  Canary, 
but  with  the  exception  of  the  customs  officials  and  the 
agent,  Captain  Thompson  would  not  allow  any  of  the 
people  to  come  on  board,  nor  would  he  permit  the  passen- 
gers to  go  on  shore  ;  the  steamer  was  to  remain  in  port  all 
the  next  day,  and  he  thought  one  da}-  would  be  ample  time 

2S 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

for  sight-seeing.  This  was  a  wise  decision  of  the  Captain's, 
for  by  nine  o'clock  it  clouded  up  and  the  big  drops  of  rain 
soon  came  pattering  down  in  quite  an  energetic  way. 

The  next  morning  when  the  decks  were  washed  down 
our  friends  did  not  take  their  usual  bath,  because  there  is  a 
superstition  among  "  old  coasters  "  that  river  water  is  not 
health}-.  The  reason  for  this  notion  is  much  like  that 
given  by  the  boers  in  South  Africa  for  not  washing  them- 
selves ;  they  say  that  a  man  who  once  attempted  to  bathe 
was  eaten  by  a  crocodile,  and  so  they  think  it  best  not  to 
go  near  the  water.  But  if  the}'  did  not  bathe,  they  had 
their  coffee  early  and  were  off  to  the  town  to  see  the  sights. 

Captain  Thompson  could  not  go  until  later  in  the  day, 
for  there  was  much  to  do  on  board  the  ship  that  required 
his  attention.  The  usual  crowd  who  make  their  living 
about  the  ships  were  early  on  hand  and  were  looking  care- 
fully for  customers.  Among  them  was  "  Aunt  Lucy,"  a 
great  fat  negress  dressed  in  many  bright  colors,  who  came 
for  the  ship's  washing ;  she  readily  induced  the  younger 
passengers  to  accompany  her  ashore  and  "see  the  little 
girls,"  and  the}7  were  soon  on  their  way  to  the  beach,  a 
jolly  and  giddy  part}'. 

It  was  Saturday  morning,  and  as  the  four  old  coasters 
reached  the  pier  they  found  it  was  market  day.  Quite  a 
fleet  of  canoes  had  gathered  during  the  night  at  a  landing 
on  the  beach  near  the  market-house,  and  the  crews  were 
now  carrying  the  cargos  of  plantains  and  other  farm  pro- 
duce up  the  bank  to  the  market  to  be  sold.  Our  friends 
ascended  the  broad  flight  of  stone  steps  and  from  the  top 
of  the  pier  took  a  wide  survey  of  the  beautiful  scene.  It 
was  a  glorious  morning.  The  shower  that  had  fallen 
during  the  night  had  refreshed  the  vegetation,  and  as  the 
sun  arose  above  the  L,one  Mountain  its  beams  were  reflected 
from  millions  of  tiny  drops  which  still  covered  the  grass 
and  leaves  like  liquid  gems.     The  air  was  deliciously  soft 

29 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

and  sweet,  and  the  fragrance  from  the  luxurious  vegetation 
was  plainly  perceptible.  Before  them  was  the  harbor  with 
its  shipping,  with  the  broad  Atlantic  on  the  far-away  west- 
ern horizon ;  to  the  right  the  river  was  lost  amid  the 
bright  green  of  the  forest  that  stretches  away  to  the  hills 
and  mountains  of  the  interior ;  to  the  left,  in  the  shady 
cove,  beneath  a  group  of  lovely  palms  was  the  coal-yard 
where  great  heaps  of  "  patent  fuel "  were  covered  with 
thatch  roofs  to  protect  it  from  the  rain  ;  in  the  immediate 
fore-ground  were  the  market  canoes,  and  a  motly  crowd 
was  passing  to  and  fro  about  them,  each  bent  on  some 
particular  errand. 

After  spending  a  few  minutes  in  silent  contemplation, 
the  gentlemen  turned  toward  the  town  and  went  first  to 
inspect  the  market-house.  The  night  shadows  were  only 
just  giving  way  before  the  beams  of  the  rising  sun,  but 
even  at  this  early  hour  the  streets  were  full  of  people  eager 
to  buy  and  sell,  for  the  African  is  an  early  riser  and  the 
morning  hour  is  cool  and  conducive  to  activity.  The 
crowd  was  greatest  in  the  vicinity  of  the  market,  but 
along  several  of  the  streets  were  rows  of  country  people 
with  their  marketing  spread  out  on  the  ground  near  them, 
and  many  itinerant  merchants  were  passing  up  and  down 
crying  out  their  wares.  The  market-house  is  a  large  stone 
building  with  stalls  conveniently  arranged  for  the  display 
of  the  fruits,  vegetables,  fish  and  other  provisions  that  are 
here  offered  for  sale. 

As  our  friends  elbowed  their  way  through  the  crowd 
they  noticed  great  piles  of  yellow  plantains,  yellow  and 
red  bananas,  great  yams,  beautiful  white  cassava  roots, 
sweet  potatoes,  pumpkins,  peppers,  okra,  green  corn,  and 
peanuts;  with  heaps  of  oranges,  limes,  Avagada  pears, 
mangos  and  kola  nuts;  the  fish  stalls  contained  many  forms 
unknown  in  northern  climes,  most  of  them  skin  fishes  and 
not  very  highly  esteemed  by  Europeans.     Dried  codfish  were 

30 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

in  great  demand,  and  indeed  all  kinds  of  salt  and  smoked 
fish  are  greatly  liked  by  the  natives,  but  pickled  fish  they 
do  not  care  much  for.  Outside  the  market-house  pigs, 
sheep,  goats  and  chickens  are  offered  for  sale,  mostly  by 
commission  merchants  who  had  received  them  by  the 
market-boats. 

Mr.  Sinclair  called  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  sheep 
were  clothed  with  hair  instead  of  wool. 

"  Yes "  responded  Mr.  Schiff,  this  is  a  fast  country; 
here  you  sow  your  seed  at  night,  by  midnight  it  is  ripe 
and  fit  to  cook;  by  morning  it  has  gone  to  seed.  The 
same  way  with  these  sheep.  You  bring  a  flock  of  your 
English  sheep  here,  with  a  fine  fleece  of  wool;  in  a  few 
months  they  are  goats,  and  not  wool  enough  on  them  to 
plug  your  ears  " 

"How  do  you  account  for  this,  Schiff?"  inquired  Mr. 
Sinclair.  "  All  owing  to  the  sun,  sir;  all  owing  to  the  sun; 
none  of  your  cold  gray  Scotch  mists  out  here,  I  can  tell 
you  "  replied  Mr.  Schiff. 

From  the  market  our  friends  passed  through  the 
business  portion  of  the  town;  shops  containing  all  the 
ordinary  varieties  of  dry-goods,  notions,  hardware,  and 
groceries  lined  both  sides  of  the  way.  In  some  places 
temporary  stalls  or  booths  had  been  erected  where  bread- 
fruit, pawpaws,  guavas  and  palmnuts  were  offered  for  sale; 
women  were  constantly  passing  with  trays  of  eatables  on 
their  heads,  the  merits  of  which  they  were  calling  attention 
to  by  loud  cries,  after  the  fashion  of  our  own  catfish 
women.  These  heterogeneous  compounds  are  made  of  rice 
and  palm-oil,  groundnuts  and  bananas,  cassava,  and  red- 
pepper,  and  the  composition  of  some  of  them,  like  our  own 
patent  medicines,  are  quite  unknown  to  the  uninitiated. 
The  streets  are  filled  with  people,  some  in  faultless 
European  dress,  but  the  greater  number  in  flowing  robes 
of  gay  colored  stuffs  of  English  manufacture.     The  crowds 

31 


SIERRA   LEONE. 

were  respectful  to  the  strangers,  and  the  English  language 
was  largely  spoken,  along  with  various  country  dialects. 

Sierra  Leone  is  a  well  built  modern  town,  and  will 
compare  favorably  with  towns  of  like  size  in  other  tropical 
countries.  The  streets  are  wide  and  clean,  and  the  drain- 
age excellent.  Most  of  the  public  buildings  are  of  stone, 
as  are  many  of  the  houses;  other  houses  have  the  first  story 
of  stone,  with  a  frame  story  above  it;  while  still  another 
class  of  houses  are  wholly  of  frame.  Nearly  all  have  small 
yards  in  which  trees,  flowers  and  vines  flourish.  Many  of 
the  houses  have  piazzas  and  are  comfortably  furnished  with- 
in with  chairs,  tables,  sofas,  pier-glasses,  bed-steads,  and 
pictures  upon  the  wall  -  multitudes  of  artizans  at  home  do 
not  live  so  well,  nor  have  such  comfortable  homes  as  the 
better  class  of  the  Sierra  Leone  people.  Nor  are  all  traders 
by  any  means,  for  men  skilled  in  almost  every  handicraft 
may  be  engaged  to  go  to  other  parts  of  the  coast  on  a  three 
year's  engagement,  and  as  a  matter  of  fact  nearly  ever}'  south- 
bound steamer  has  such  men  among  its  deck  passengers. 
Sierra  Leone,  with  its  industrial  schools,  turns  out  more 
skilled  workmen  than  the  colony  can  employ.  Many  of 
the  engravings  in  this  volume  are  copied  from  photographs 
taken  by  native  Sierra  Leone  artists. 

After  walking  around  a  while  our  friends  called 
upon  Mr.  Lewis  the  American  consul,  who  invited  them 
to  have  a  cup  of  coffee  with  him;  learning  that  they  would 
remain  over  night  he  invited  them  to  take  dinner  with 
him  at  six  o'clock  and  sent  a  messenger  to  the  Kisanga 
with  the  same  invitation  to  Captain  Thompson.  Mr. 
Alexander  had  conceived  the  idea  of  spending  the  day 
upon  the  mountain,  as  he  wished  to  ascertain  how  much 
cooler  it  was  there  than  at  the  water-side;  so  at  his  request 
Mr.  Lewis  engaged  hammocks  and  bearers  for  the  party, 
and  after  coffee  and  a  little  chat,  they  started  upon  their 
journey. 

32 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

On  the  way  through  the  town  they  stopped  at  a 
grocery  store  and  purchased  materials  for  a  lunch,  and  to 
these  were  added  oranges  and  Avagada  pears  from  a  mar- 
ket woman  on  the  street.  By  the  time  the  outskirts  of  the 
town  were  reached,  the  path  became  pretty  steep  in  places, 
and  the  bearers  were  obliged  to  stop  frequently  to  rest. 
The  ascent  proved  to  be  long  and  toilsome,  but  by  noon 
they  reached  one  of  the  lower  summits  nearly  two  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  river.  Here  in  the  shade  of  some 
bushes  they  rested  and  ate  their  lunch,  while  their  men 
withdrew  a  little  distance  and  ate  such  country  food  as 
they  had  brought  with  them,  and  then  laid  themselves 
down  and  went  to  sleep. 

Having  rested  themselves,  and  refreshed  the  inner 
man  our  friends  lighted  their  cigars  and  looked  about  them 
in  a  philosophical  frame  of  mind,  at  this  height  the  wind 
blew  steadily  from  the  north-east,  showing  they  were  still 
in  the  trade  wind  region;  the  air  was  purer  and  clearer, 
and  the  atmosphere  had  lost  much  of  the  steaminess  that 
was  so  noticeable  by  the  water-side  ;  the  vegetable  growth, 
while  still  abundant,  was  not  so  rank  and  luxuriant  as  it 
was  on  the  lower  slopes  ;  on  the  whole  it  was  plain  they 
were  in  a  different  climate.  Yet  the  sun  had  as  much 
power  here  as  it  had  in  the  town,  but  the  air  was  more  in- 
vigorating, and  in  the  shade  it  seemed  cooler. 

"  Who  could  wish  for  a  finer  place  to  live ! "  ex- 
claimed Mr.  Alexander. 

Mr.  Schiff  suggested  it  would  be  somewhat  lonesome, 
but  he  allowed  that  might  be  an  attraction  to  a  confirmed 
bachelor. 

Mr.  Alexander  admitted  the  force  of  the  criticism,  and 
then  explained  that  he  had  in  mind,  not  so  much  that  par- 
ticular spot,  as  the  elevated  land  in  general,  and  the  hilly 
up-country  of  the  interior  in  particular.     ,l  Why,"  said  he, 

»"  33 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

"  should  not  these  hills  support  a  considerable  European 
population  as  well  as  in  India  or  the  Brazils?  " 

"  There  is  no  good  reason  why  they  should  not,"  re- 
plied Mr.  King,  "  these  hillsides  would  make  the  finest 
coffee  and  tea  plantations,  and  the  lowlands  would  be  just 
the  place  for  sugar  estates  ;  here  is  a  large  population  to 
supply  the  labor,  and  the  white  race  possesses  the  means 
to  employ  it." 

"  Yes,"  added  Mr.  Sinclair,  "this whole  land  might  be 
made  into  a  garden ;  why  in  my  home  in  the  Orkney 
Islands  we  must  wait  until  August  for  a  lettuce  to  head, 
and  here  the  richest  vegetation  flourishes  throughout  the 
year.  Look  at  the  cassava  and  plantains  that  these  people 
live  on,  they  are  taken  fresh  from  the  ground  every  day 
and  there  is  not  a  foot  of  ground  anywhere  on  which  one 
or  the  other  will  not  grow.  Then  see  the  fruits ;  in  my 
native  town  if  a  poor  child  gets  a  single  orange  or  cocoa- 
nut  once  a  year  it  feels  itself  rich,  while  the  poorest  nigger 
in  all  this  land  may  have  them  in  abundance  all  the  season, 
and  not  these  alone,  but  mangos,  guavas,  limes,  pawpaws, 
pears  and  breadfruit  ;  I  tell  you  the  half  of  London  does 
not  live  any  better  than  these  fellows  who  carried  us  up 
the  hill." 

"How  would  it  do  to  bring  the  Irish  out  here?" 
qtieried  Mr.  Schiff. 

"  The  only  objection,"  responded  Mr.  Sinclair,  "  is 
that  this  country  is  too  good  for  them  ;  they  have  been  so 
long-  under  the  influence  of  rum  and  Catholicism  that 
man}-  of  them  are  more  ignorant  than  the  pagans.  Even- 
other  country  under  the  sun  flourishes  under  British  rule 
except  the  Catholic  counties  of  Ireland,  and  there  must  be 
some  special  reason  why  they  are  always  making  such  a 
bad  mouth." 

"  I  think  there  are  other  parts  of  Africa,"  suggested 
Mr.  King,  "  where  the  Irish  people  would  do  better  than 

34 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

in  Sierra  Leone ;  it  seems  to  me  that  men  of  means  and 
ability  to  manage  native  laborers  would  do  better  here. 
Such  men  could  at  once  establish  plantations,  open  up 
lines  of  communication  and  put  the  country  in  a  shape  to 
profitably  absorb  a  large  number  of  peasant  families.  If 
the  Irish  people  you  speak  of  should  be  brought  out  now, 
as  there  is  no  market  for  their  labor,  all  they  could  do 
would  be  to  raise  food  enough  to  support  themselves,  and 
perhaps  coffee  and  cotton  enough  to  buy  their  clothing." 

"  Well,  what  more  can  they  have  ? "  inquired  Mr. 
Sinclair. 

"  It  seems  to  me,"  continued  Mr.  King,  "  that  the 
Irish  people  do  better  in  a  country  where  there  are  large 
works  upon  which  they  may  be  employed  ;  they  are  not 
very  successful  as  tillers  of  the  soil  either  in  Ireland  or 
anywhere  else  ;  you  put  colonies  of  Irish  families  in  these 
forests  and  they  will  soon  be  as  wild  as  the  negroes,  but 
open  up  the  country  first  and  then  Irish  families  may  come 
out  here  and  have  their  little  homes,  while  some  at  least  of 
every  family  can  be  in  the  employ  of  richer  white  land- 
owners, and  the  more  conservative  element  will  not  only 
help  to  hold  them  in  check  politically,  but  will  be  an  in- 
centive to  them  to  rise  above  their  lowly  condition." 

The  conversation  flowed  on  steadily  until  four  o'clock, 
when  the  declining  sun,  and  their  increasing  appetites, 
warned  them  that  it  was  time  to  be  getting  to  the  Consul's 
house  lest  they  should  keep  him  waiting  dinner.  The 
ride  down  occupied  but  little  over  an  hour,  and  like  all 
hammock  riding  was  tiresome  and  disagreeable.  A  pecu- 
liarly helpless  feeling  comes  over  one  as  he  is  being  toted 
along  on  his  back  in  a  hammock,  with  his  feet  often  higher 
than  his  head,  and  his  eyes  turned  up  in  mute  appeal  to 
the  skies — a  spectacle  truly  for  angels  and  for  men.  It 
may  answer  very  well  for  a  corpse,  or  a  gentleman  when 
he  is  dead  drunk,  but  so  long  as  a  man  can  hold  up  his 

35 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

head  he  will  have  a  feeling  akin  to  shame  when  he  lies 
down  in  a  hammock  for  a  couple  of  black  "  boys  "  to  tote 
him  around.  Some  of  these  days  there  will  be  good  macad- 
amized roads  over  these  hills  as  there  is  now  in  India  and 
then  one  can  ride  about  in  a  carriage  in  peace  of  mind,  and 
bodily  comfort. 

When  they  reached  Consul  Lewis'  house  they  found 
Captain  Thompson  had  arrived  but  a  few  minutes  before 
them,  and  that  they  were  in  good  time  as  dinner  was  not 
yet  ready.  The  market  people  had  all  gone  home,  and 
the  streets  were  quite  deserted  of  the  crowds  they  had  seen 
in  the  morning ;  there  were  no  drunk  or  disorderly  persons 
and  the  town  was  as  quiet  as  a  country  village  in  England. 

After  dinner  the  gentlemen  took  their  seats  upon  the 
piazza  of  the  second  story  of  the  house,  and  as  they  sipped 
their  wine  and  after-dinner  coffee  and  smoked  the  Consul's 
cigars,  they  discussed  the  commercial  and  industrial  affairs 
of  the  colony.  Like  many  other  important  ports  on  the 
Coast,  country  produce  is  not  brought  into  Sierra  Leone  for 
barter  or  exchange  ;  such  was  the  case  when  the  country 
was  new,  but  now  only  farm  produce,  or  provisions,  such 
as  fruits,  vegetables  and  meats  are  brought  for  sale,  while 
"  produce,"  in  the  sense  in  which  it  is  used  by  the  traders, 
is  collected  only  in  the  country'  districts.  This  exportable 
"produce,"  which  is  almost  entirely  the  spontaneous  pro- 
ducts of  the  forest,  is  gathered  by  the  "  bush  people  "  and 
purchased  from  them  by  native  traders  who  penetrate  to 
all  the  inland  villages  in  search  of  it.  These  native  traders 
bring  it  to  the  "  factories  " — as  the  trading  establishments 
in  charge  of  white  men  are  called — where  it  is  prepared  for 
export,  and  sent  by  small  sailing  vessels  or  coasting 
steamers  to  the  principal  port  of  the  district.  A  large 
community  of  white  men  or  other  foreigners  either  on  the 
coast,  or  inland,  always  destroy  the  trade  in  forest  products 
for    that    neighborhood ;  partly  because    the  forest  is    cut 

36 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

down  to  make  room  for  farms,  but  principally  because  it 
pays  better  to  supply  the  local  demand  for  provisions, 
common  labor,  and  other  necessaries  than  it  does  to  gather 
the  products  of  the  forest  and  prepare  them  so  that  they 
will  be  marketable  with  the  trade.  Take  ebony,  for  in- 
stance, there  are  no  forests  of  ebony,  but  the  trees  grow 
two  or  three  together  a  half  a  mile  or  more  apart.  To  cut 
down  one  of  these  trees,  clear  away  the  great  tangle  of 
vines,  cut  the  trunk  into  sections,  chop  away  several  inches 
of  the  white  sap-wood  which  grows  about  the  black  heart, 
and  carry  this  heavy  billet  two  or  three,  may  be  five  or  six 
miles  through  the  tangled  jungle,  is  much  harder  work 
than  raising  two  or  three  bunches  of  bananas,  or  a  couple 
of  diminutive  chickens  either  of  which  will  bring  more 
money.  As  for  palm  oil,  the  great  staple  of  export ;  all  the 
palm-nuts  that  grow  within  ten  miles  of  such  a  population 
as  that  at  Sierra  Leone,  are  wanted  for  food,  and  the  palm- 
oil  for  local  consumption  must  come  from  beyond  that 
distance. 

Sierra  Leone,  then,  beyond  the  needs  of  its  own  people, 
is  simply  a  port  of  entry  for  a  section  of  the  coast  and  the 
country  that  lies  behind  it.  Goods  are  received  in  large 
quantities  by  the  great  mercantile  firms  and  stored  away  in 
warehouses,  from  which  they  are  shipped  to  the  factories 
along  the  coast  and  up  the  rivers  by  small  sailing  vessels 
and  river  steamers.  These  coasting  craft  usually  have  a 
white  captain,  and  sometimes  a  white  engineer ;  but  the 
crew  are  native  men,  and  several  of  these  vessels  are  at- 
tached to  each  "agency."  In  order  that  any  port-of-entry 
may  continue  to  grow,  upon  the  present  system  of  trade,  it 
is  necessary  that  the  native  traders  should  penetrate  farther 
and  farther  into  the  country,  so  as  to  tap  villages  heretofore 
not  reached  ;  and  when  this  is  no  longer  possible,  the  limit 
of  the  "  trade "  is  reached.  But  more  than  that ;  if  the 
trade  of  a  village  consists  of  ebony,  ivory  or  rubber,  these 

37 


SIERRA   LEONE. 

soon  become  exhausted  and  the  value  of  that  village  for 
trade  is  at  an  end,  for  the  ebony  trees  have  been  cut  down, 
the  elephants  driven  away,  and  the  rubber  vines  killed.  It 
is  a  sad  fact  that  the  bush  negroes  are  so  reckless  as  to  kill 
a  rubber  vine  at  one  gathering  instead  of  tapping  it 
judiciously,  and  so  the  productive  territory  is  ever}'  year 
receding,  and  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  the  rubber  is 
thereby  increased. 

All  of  these  facts  were  of  course  well  known  to  the 
little  group  gathered  on  the  piazza  of  Consul  Lewis'  house, 
and  they  needed  no  discussion  ;  the  only  question  was  what 
could  be  done  to  advance  the  interests  of  the  colony  and 
develop  its  great  natural  resources.  Mr.'  Schiff  again  sug- 
gested the  importation  of  a  large  number  of  Irish  families, 
but  Consul  Lewis  thought  the  colony  was  not  yet  ready  for 
them. 

"  In  my  opinion,"  said  he,  "  the  native  labor  should 
first  be  employed,  and  the  country  more  opened  up ;  then 
white  peasants  and  other  laboring  people  could  come  out 
here  both  to  their  own  advantage  and  ours.  In  new 
countries  like  this  where  there  is  native  labor,  it  is  always 
best  for  men  of  means  to  lead  the  way  ;  these  by  their 
superior  intelligence  and  ability  can  provide  regular  com- 
munication with  distant  parts  of  the  country,  and  open  up 
districts  for  settlement  that  were  before  too  difficult  to 
reach,  and  by  establishing  industries  suited  to  the  country, 
present  an  object-lesson  to  all  new-comers  far  more  effec- 
tive than  any  amount  of  talk.  Take  the  matter  of  coffee- 
raising  for  example  ;  you  might  talk  to  an  Irish  bog-trotter 
until  your  head  turned  into  a  cocoanut,  and  you  could  not 
teach  him  to  plant  coffee  and  prepare  it  for  market ;  but 
bring  him  out  here  and  set  him  to  work  on  a  coffee  estate  ; 
let  his  daughters  work  in  the  planter's  family,  or  in  the 
cleaning  and  husking  mill ;  let  him  see  the  planter  making 
money  raising  and  selling  this  coffee,  and  soon  he  will 

3S 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

want  to  raise  and  sell  too,  and  by  this  time  he  and  his 
family  will  know  how  to  do  it,  and  they  will  do  it." 

"  What  do  yon  think  of  a  railway  from  here  np  into 
the  interior?"  inquired  Mr.  Alexander. 

"  I  think  it  is  a  necessity,  and  ought  to  be  built  now," 
replied  Consul  Lewis,  "  railways  are  as  much  a  necessity 
here  as  in  any  other  country  in  the  world.  No  country- 
can  do  without  them  ;  they  are  now  built,  or  being  built, 
in  North,  East  and  South  Africa,  and  why  not  here?  All 
railway  supplies  are  so  cheap  now  that  roads  built  at  the 
present  time  should  pay  their  way  from  the  start,  and  soon 
begin  to  earn  dividends.  The  companies  that  are  first  in 
the  field  will  get  the  best  routes,  and  no  doubt  valuable 
grants  of  land,  and  may  consider  themselves  fortunate." 

"  In  what  direction  would  you  suggest  a  road  be  first 
built  ?  "  asked  Mr.  Sinclair. 

"  I  think,"  answered  Mr.  Lewis,  "  that  at  first  it  would 
be  better  to  start  from  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Sierra 
Leone  River  and  run  directly  back  to  the  Kong  Mountains  ; 
this  would  open  up  a  fine  district  of  hill  country  that 
might  be  settled  at  once  and  that  should  soon  give  the  road 
some  business.  Flat-bottomed,  stern-wheeled  steamboats, 
such  as  we  call  "  kickouts  "  on  our  Western  rivers,  could 
come  alongside  the  ocean  steamer  and  receive  the  freight 
and  take  it  up  the  river  to  the  railway,  and  when  the  traffic 
of  the  line  would  warrant  the  expense  of  large  terminal 
facilities,  the  road  could  be  extended  to  this  city  and  piers 
built  out  to  deep  water  ;  but  for  the  present  a  terminus  up 
the  river  would  be  more  economical.  Then  after  a  few 
years,  when  the  opening  up  of  the  country  was  an  accom- 
plished fact,  the  line  could  be  run  through  the  mountains 
and  down  the  Niger  until  water  navigable  for  small  steam- 
boats was  reached,  and  you  would  have  the  commerce  of 
the  Western  Soudan  in  your  hands." 

39 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

"  We  seemed  so  far  away  from  the  Niger,"  interrupted 
Mr.  Sinclair,  "  that  I  had  not  even  thought  of  it." 

"  Its  head  waters,"  continued  the  Consul,  "  are  very 
near  the  head  waters  of  the  Sierra  Leone,  perhaps  not 
three  hundred  miles  from  where  we  are  sitting,  and  it  is 
almost  certain  that  a  railway  from  here  to  the  nearest 
navigable  water  on  the  river  would  not  need  to  be  over 
six  hundred  miles  long,  and  perhaps  much  less." 

"How  about  the  question  of  fuel?"  inquired  Mr. 
Alexander. 

"  To  that  question  I  am  not  able  to  give  a  very  definite 
answer,"  said  Mr.  Lewis,  "  there  is  of  course  an  abundance 
of  wood  everywhere,  but  I  am  confident  an  abundance  of 
coal  will  be  found  in  the  mountains,  as  well  as  many  other 
valuable  minerals ;  coal  is  found  in  almost  every  country, 
and  I  have  not  a  doubt  that  rich  beds  of  it  are  waiting  for 
us  to  come  up  and  help  ourselves." 

"  It  seems  to  me,"  observed  Mr.  King,  "  that  in  a  city 
of  this  size  a  system  of  street  car  lines  would  pay  ;  we 
have  them  in  Mexico,  and  Central  American  towns  which 
are  in  the  same  latitude  as  this  place." 

"  They  would  pay  very  soon  at  least,  if  not  indeed  at 
first,"  replied  the  Consul,  "  this  hammock  business  is  a 
nuisance  ;  when  I  go  about  I  like  to  sit  up  like  a  Christian, 
and  not  lie  on  my  back  like  a  Booby  to  be  jogged  at  even- 
step  by  a  couple  of  niggers.  Small  cars  at  frequent  inter- 
vals, drawn  by  a  single  mule  each,  and  driven  by  stout 
young  women  who  could  also  collect  the  fares,  would  be  a 
profitable  enterprise  and  a  step  forward  in  the  right  direc- 
tion. Women  quite  capable  of  such  work  could  be  hired 
for  a  shilling  a  day,  and  the  keeping  of  the  mules  would 
be  but  a  slight  expense." 

"  It  takes  from  five  to  six  years  for  a  coffee  plantation 
to  come  into  full  bearing,"  said  Mr.  Sinclair,  "  and  that  is 

40 


wrwj. 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

a  long  time  to  wait ;  are  there  no  products  that  could  be 
profitably  exported  that  would  not  take  so  long  to  grow." 
"  What  is  to  hinder  cotton  growing  on  the  uplands  ?  " 
inquired  Mr.  Alexander,  "  in  India  large  quantities  are 
grown  and  the  natural  conditions  there  are  much  the 
same  as  here.  I  noticed  in  a  recent  number  of  the  Pall 
Mall  Gazette  that  '  After  New  Orleans,  Bombay  is  the 
greatest  cotton  port  in  the  world.  Four  million  cwts. 
are  shipped  abroad  every  year,  and  two  million  more  are 
spun  and  woven  in  the  eighty-two  mills  of  the  Bombay 
Presidency  ;  the  value  of  all  this  cotton  is  twelve  millions 
of  pounds  sterling.'  Now  what  is  to  hinder  cotton  being 
grown,  and  even  manufactured  here  ?  " 

"I  can  see  no  reason,"  replied  Mr.  Lewis,  "what  can 
be  done  in  India,  can  be  done  here ;  and  then  you  must 
not  forget  we  are  much  nearer  to  all  the  nations  of 
Northern  Europe  than  India  is." 

"  Do  you  think  any  of  the  fruits  here  could  be  shipped 
to  England  and  arrive  in  good  condition  ?  "  inquired  Mr. 
Alexander. 

"  They  could  beyond  a  question,"  answered  the  Con- 
sul, "  cocoanuts  could  go  home  in  sailing  vessels  and  by 
using  them  in  the  husk  for  stowage,  the  freight  would  be 
nothing  at  all.  Limes,  lemons  and  oranges  could  go  by 
steamer  without  the  least  difficulty,  and  the  trade  in  these 
might  in  a  short  time  assume  large  proportions." 

"  Let  me  tell  you,  gentlemen,"  said  Mr.  King,  "  what 
I  have  myself  done  as  an  experiment.  I  picked  a  basket 
full  of  limes  among  the  foothills  of  the  Coast  Range  on  the 
Ogowe  River,  which  you  know  is  south  of  the  equator, 
and  took  them  with  me  on  the  regular  English  mail 
steamer  to  Liverpool,  and  they  were  in  good  condition 
when  I  arrived  ;  so  much  so,  that  a  few  were  still  left 
unused  four  weeks  afterward  when  I  left  Liverpool  on  my 

41 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

return.  Another  time  I  sent  a  few  limes  from  Gaboon  to 
America,  and  they  arrived  safely  there." 

"  Our  steamers,"  observed  the  Consul,  "  are  usually 
fourteen  days  from  here  to  Liverpool  ;  by  using  twelve  to 
fourteen  knot  boats,  not  calling  at  the  islands,  and  running 
into  Plymouth,  the  time  could  easily  be  reduced  to  ten 
days  ;  that  is  but  two  days  longer  than  the  present  steamers 
take  from  Grand  Canary,  home,  and  they  carry  bananas 
without  difficulty.  The  Mediterranean  boats  are  often  ten 
days  getting  home  with  Palermo  lemons  and  oranges,  on 
account  of  calling  at  other  ports ;  what  then  is  to  hinder 
us  from  shipping  such  fruits  ?  And  this  trade  would  be  a 
very  profitable  one.  You  gentlemen  know  that  a  lime  tree 
will  grow  anywhere  and  bear  luxuriantly  if  only  the  grass 
and  bushes  be  kept  away  from  it ;  the  income  from  an  acre 
of  lime  trees  would  support  a  family.  The  orange  requires 
more  care,  but  the  trees  will  live  and  bear  a  life-time,  and 
who  would  wish  for  more  agreeable  employment  than 
picking  and  packing  oranges?" 

"  These  Sierra  Leone  oranges  are  not  as  good  as  those 
grown  on  the  Islands,"  said  Mr.  SchifT. 

"  They  are  much  larger,"  replied  the  Consul,  "  and 
the  reason  they  are  not  so  highly  flavored  is  because  they 
are  seedlings  ;  if  fine  budded  varieties  were  planted  they 
would  be  as  good  as  oranges  grown  anywhere.  The 
oranges  you  see  in  our  market  have  not  been  grown  in 
orchards,  but  are  from  trees  that  came  up  of  themselves 
from  chance  seeds  thrown  about." 

"  At  Gaboon,"  said  Mr.  King,  "  we  have  every  year  a 
large  agricultural  fair,  at  which  only  the  products  of  the 
colony  are  allowed  to  be  exhibited.  I  was  for  two  years 
one  of  the  committee  to  judge  of  the  exhibits  and  award 
the  prizes.  I  saw  there  as  fine  oranges  as  I  ever  saw  in  my 
life  ;  they  were  placed  on  exhibition  by  the  French  Catho- 
lic Mission  ;  and  what  they  did  at  Gaboon,  can  be  done 

42 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

here.  The  banana  industry,  continued  Air.  King,  is  a 
very  profitable  one  in  Central  America.  The  number  of 
bananas  a  country  like  England  would  consume  if  they 
could  be  had  at  a  reasonable  rate,  is  very  great  indeed.  In 
America  we  get  them  by  steamer  loads  at  a  time,  and  there 
is  always  a  good  sale  for  them.  I  can  see  no  good  reason 
why  Sierra  Leone  should  not  load  a  steamer  a  week  with 
bananas  and  find  a  read}7  sale  for  them  all  at  paying  prices  ; 
they  could  be  brought  from  the  plantations  along  the  rivers 
and  creeks  in  small  steamboats  and  loaded  on  a  certain  day 
each  week,  and  in  twelve  days  at  the  most,  be  on  sale  in 
the  markets  of  England." 

"  One  good  thing  about  a  banana  plantation,"  added 
Mr.  Sinclair,  "  is  that  there  is  fruit  ripening  all  through 
the  year ;  you  do  not  have  all  your  crop  ready  at  once,  and 
then  perhaps  lose  a  part  because  you  cannot  employ- 
sufficient  labor  to  harvest  it  all  ;  but  it  comes  in  all  through 
the  year  with  a  fair  degree  of  regularity,  and  so  you  can 
give  your  men  steady  employment.  In  the  rich  soil 
bananas  would  not  need  manuring  as  they  do  in  the  Islands, 
and  nearly  all  the  cultivation  could  be  done  with  mules,  as 
is  the  case  with  cotton  and  corn  in  America." 

"  Do  you  think  Avagada  pears  could  be  sent  to  Eng- 
land?" inquired  Mr.  Alexander. 

"  Perhaps  they  might,"  replied  Mr.  Lewis,  "  but  they 
ripen  up  rapidly  when  once  they  are  taken  from  the  tree ; 
if  there  was  a  room  on  board  fitted  up  with  cold  storage, 
or  even  a  good  circulation  of  cool  air,  they  might  be 
landed  safely  in  London,  and  I  know  of  nothing  that 
makes  so  rich  and  delicious  a  salad." 

"Some  of  these  days,"  said  Mr.  Schiff,  "a  single 
steamer  will  pay  between  here  and  Stockholm.  It  could 
bring  out  lumber  and  dried  fish,  for  which  there  is  a  large 
and  increasing  demand  on  the  Coast ;  and  return  with 
coffee,     sugar,    palm-oil,    oranges,     limes,    cocoanuts,     and 

43 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

possibly  bananas — all  these  products  would  meet  with  a 
ready  sale  in  Sweden  and  Norway.1 ' 

The  conversation  was  continued  until  a  late  hour,  and 
then  the  visitors  bade  Consul  Lewis  "  good  night "  and 
walked  down  to  the  pier  where  the  ship's  boat  was  waiting 
for  them  ;  a  few  minutes  later  the}'  were  on  board  the 
"  Kisanga  "  and  after  a  little  nip  of  bitters  they  "  turned 
in  "  for  the  night. 

It  was  the  intention  of  the  Captain  to  sail  early  in  the 
morning,  but  there  were  some  slight  repairs  to  make  in  the 
engine  room,  and  these  were  not  completed,  so  it  was  de- 
cided to  start  at  noon,  and  in  the  meantime  the  five  gentle- 
men concluded  to  go  ashore  and  attend  services  in  the 
Cathedral.  The  Sabbath  is  well  observed  at  Sierra  Leone, 
quite  as  well  as  in  commercial  towns  of  its  size  in  England 
and  America.  The  people  of  Sierra  Leone  are  eminently 
religious.  Most  white  men  who  visit  the  Coast  get  the 
impression  that  their  religion  is  not  more  than  skin  deep 
because  there  is  often  a  wide  gap  between  their  professions 
and  their  well  known  conduct ;  but  it  must  be  remembered 
that  there  are  hypocrites  everywhere  and  that  the  genus  is 
not  peculiar  to  any  country  or  people.  No  doubt  many 
put  on  a  cloak  of  religion  who  possess  no  piety  in  their 
hearts,  and  the  class  that  knock  about  the  steamers  are  the 
worst  of  the  population  ;  it  would  be  a  pity  to  judge  all  by 
them. 

There  are  several  places  of  worship,  and  the  bells 
sounded  wonderfully  like  home  ;  as  our  friends  made  their 
way  to  the  Cathedral  they  saw  the  streets  full  of  well 
dressed  men  and  women,  with  exquisite  young  swells,  and 
gay  young  ladies  fitted  out  with  the  latest  style  of  dresses 
and  hats,  and  if  the  faces  had  been  white  one  might  easily 
have  thought  he  was  in  one  of  the  smaller  American  cities. 
The  congregation  was  a  large  and  respectful  one,  the  music 
good,  and  the    sermon  not  too  long.     The   services  were 

44 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

those  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  were  conducted  bya 
white  bishop,  with  the  assistance  of  a  colored  brother  and 
a  choir  of  colored  boys. 

After  service  Consul  Lewis  met  the  little  group  as 
they  were  leaving  the  church  and  introduced  them  to  some 
of  the  leading  merchants,  and  then  accompanied  them  to 
the  pier  to  wish  them  bon  voyage ;  an  hour  later  the 
"  Kisanga  "  turned  her  prow  toward  the  sea  and  steamed 
out  of  the  harbor. 

It  is  the  custom  of  all  vessels  coming  to  the  West 
Coast  to  take  on  a  crew  of  natives  to  handle  the  cargo  and 
do  all  the  rough  work.  Formerly  these  crews  were  shipped 
at  Grand  Cess  and  other  villages  on  the  Liberian  coast,  but 
at  present  most  captains  pick  them  up  at  Sierra  Leone. 
These  men  work  in  gangs,  under  the  command  of  a  head- 
man, who  makes  the  bargains  with  the  captain  on  the  one 
side,  and  the  men  on  the  other ;  he  guarantees  the  men 
their  wages,  and  he  holds  himself  responsible  to  the  cap- 
tain for  his  men's  good  behavior.  If  punishment  is  to  be 
meted  out,  the  sentence  is  passed  by  the  captain  and  carried 
into  effect  by  the  headman.  These  men  stay  with  the 
vessel  while  she  is  on  the  coast,  and  on  her  homeward 
voyage  they  are  dropped  at  their  own  village  as  the  vessel 
passes.  Their  pay  is  one  shilling  a  day,  and  a  ration  of  rice 
and  salt  beef,  with  a  small  glass  of  grog  at  noon  and  sun- 
down. They  eat  and  sleep  on  the  deck  and  except  when 
it  rains  are  a  jolly,  happy  set  of  fellows,  always  ready  and 
willing  to  do  anything  they  are  told  so  long  as  they  arc 
fairly  treated,  but  morose  and  disobedient  when  they  think 
they  are  imposed  upon. 

It  was  an  entertaining  sight  to  watch  these  people  eat. 
Rice  is  cooked  for  them  in  large  stationary  kettles  heated 
by  steam  supplied  by  the  boilers;  when  done  each  grain 
stands  out  distinct  by  itself  and  the  whole  mass  looks  won- 
drously  white  and  attractive.     The  ship's  cook  now   gives 

45 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

to  each  headman  an  amount  of  rice  proportioned  to  the  num- 
ber of  his  men,  and  also  a  piece  of  salt  beef  or  pork.  The 
men  then  gather  into  messes  of  five  or  six,  and  the  head- 
man gives  each  mess  its  share  ;  the  division  is  made  with 
great  fairness,  and  not  infrequently  the  head  man  retainsless 
for  himself  than  he  gave  to  others,  so  as  to  avoid  the  charge 
of  favoring  himself.  Each  group  then  choose  a  place  upon 
the  deck  where  they  sit  down  in  a  circle  about  the  pan  of 
rice  and  watch  with  silent  interest  the  division  of  their  little 
chunk  of  meat,  which,  alas,  is  always  to  small  for  their  vig- 
orous appetites  and  strong  digestion.  The  little  bundle  of 
red  peppers  is  then  unrolled,  and  if  any  one  of  the  mess  has 
succeeded  in  picking  up  a  few  bones  or  stray  pieces  of  food 
about  the  pantry  or  the  gallery,  it  is  brought  forth  from  its 
hiding-place  and  contributed  to  the  common  stock.  When 
all  is  in  readiness  the  little  piece  of  meat  is  drawn  through 
the  lips  to  get  a  taste  of  its  richness,  the  right  hand  is  thrust 
into  the  central  dish  and  a  large  handful  of  the  steaming 
white  rice  is  taken  and  firmly  pressed  into  a  solid  ball  ;  the 
head  is  thrown  far  back,  the  mouth  is  opened  to  its  great- 
est extent,  the  great  ball  of  rice  drops  in,  the  jaws  close  on 
it — and  the  patient  is  ready  to  repeat  the  operation.  After 
eating,  the  hands  and  mouth  are  washed  and  the  teeth  well 
rubbed  ;  nothing  is  drunk  during  the  meal,  but  when  it  is 
over,  all  take  a  drink  of  water.  All  Africans  take  a  drink 
of  water  just  as  they  are  about  to  "  turn  in  "  for  the  night. 
Besides  the  native  crew,  quite  a  number  of  deck  pas- 
sengers were  taken  on  at  Sierra  Leone  ;  some  of  these  were 
going  to  various  ports  south  and  east  on  engagements  with 
traders  and  missionaries  to  work  as  cooks,  carpenters,  ma- 
sons, clerks,  and  Jack-washers,  but  most  of  them  were  ad- 
venturers going  forth  to  seek  their  fortune.  Many  of  these 
suppose  the  best  way  to  make  friends  with  strangers  is  to 
make  it  appear  they  have  been  converted  to  their  religion, 
consequently  they  read  the  Bible  aloud  and  pray  in  an  os- 

46 


SIERRA    LEONE. 

teutatious  manner,  and  as  a  sailor  places  but  light  value 
upon  religion  in  every  day  life,  so  they  look  with  anything 
but  favor  upon  these  black  "  Christians,"  and  are  forever 
finding  fault  with  them.  It  may  however  admit  of  some 
doubt  whether  a  white  Christian  who  attends  divine  ser- 
vice while  his  men  are  "  firing  up  "  so  as  to  get  ready  to 
run  on  Sabbath  afternoon,  is  doing  much  better  than  his 
black  brother.  There  is  no  good  reason  for  running  steam- 
ers on  Sunday  on  the  Coast,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  a  change 
will  soon  take  place  in  this  respect. 


47 


Chapter  III 


LIBERIA. 


ABOUT  ten  o'clock  the  next  morning,  Monday, 
September,  22nd,  the  "  Kisanga  "  was  abreast  of 
Cape  Mount,  an  elevation  of  some  fifteen  hun- 
dred feet  that  marks  the  northern  limit  of  the 
Republic  of  Liberia.  The  Liberians  have  settlements 
along  the  coast  from  here  to  Cape  Palmas,  a  distance  of 
three  hundred  miles,  and  the  government  claims  jurisdic- 
tion as  far  as  the  Kong  Mountains,  but  it  is  safe  to  say  that 
no  Americo-Liberian  has  ever  set  his  foot  on  one  square 
mile  in  twenty  of  the  territory  named,  and,  left  to  himself, 
he  never  will.  It  was  a  beautiful  idea  to  send  our  negroes 
back  to  the  land  of  their  fathers,  from  which  we  had  ruth- 
lessly torn  them,  to  carry  the  Gospel  to  their  sable  brothers 
and  sisters,  to  irradiate  their  heathen  darkness  with  the 
light  and  peace  of  Christianity  and  fill  the  land  with  the 
blessings  of  an  advanced  civilization,  while  the  sagacious 
white  man  remained  at  ease  in  his  own  country,  being  at 
once  rid  of  the  il  niggers  "  who  might  become  a  trouble- 
some element  in  the  body  politic,  and  at  the  same  time 
have  them  do  a  work  in  Africa  that  he  ought  to  do.  But 
like  many  another  brilliant  theory,  it  failed  to  produce  the 
desired  result. 

48 


h~* 


1\ 


i 


LIBERIA. 

The  experience  of  this  political  experiment  has  been 
repeated  in  the  Church.  Every  now  and  then  a  denomi- 
nation becomes  alarmed  at  the  death  rate  among:  its  African 
missionaries,  or  else  enough  men  cannot  be  found  to 
"  carry  the  banner  of  the  Cross  "  to  those  benighted  shores, 
and  so  the  proposition  is  made  to  send  out  black  men,  and 
let  them  bear  the  burden  and  endure  the  hardships,  while 
the  white  brother  "lays  himself  upon  the  altar'1  in  the 
shape  of  a  comfortable  pastorate  at  home  at  a  good  salary. 
The  Republic  of  Liberia  is  a  great  object-lesson  to  teach 
the  foolishness  of  trying  to  make  the  black  man  do  the 
white  man's  work.  Here  are  three  hundred  miles  of  coast 
line  of  one  of  the  richest  countries  in  all  the  world,  with 
an  average  of  three  steamers  a  week  each  way  (not  count- 
ing  the  Cape  boats)  passing  within  sight  of  its  shores,  and 
yet  it  is  a  rare  thing  for  any  cargo  to  be  landed,  or  produce 
shipped  from  its  ports. 

The  reason  for  this  is  not  far  to  seek.  The  American 
negro  bears  the  climate  but  little  better  than  an  European  ; 
being  an  "  American,"  he  thinks  himself  entirely  above 
work,  nothing  short  of  a  professional  life  will  befit  his 
dignity  ;  being  a  black  man,  and  a  foreigner,  the  native 
people  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  him,  especially  as  he 
would  lord  it  over  them  if  he  could  ;  and  so  he  sits  there  in 
idleness,  tinkering  with  the  "government,"  levying  duties 
upon  imports,  taxing  foreigners  when  one  is  foolish  enough 
to  land,  and  spoiling  the  country  for  others  who  might  be 
willing  to  do  something  to  develop  it.  Those  who  are  not 
high  government  officials  are  "  professors "  in  various 
universities,  or  Doctors  of  Divinity,  or  preachers  connected 
with  various  missionary  societies. 

And  yet  Liberia,  as  has  already  been  observed,  is  one 
of  the  richest  countries  in  natural  resources  in  the  world. 
The  air  from  the  equatorial  region  of  the  Atlantic,  heavy 
with    vapors,  is  borne  over   the    land    by    the    south-west 

iv  49 


LIBERIA. 

breeze  until  it  strikes  the  Kong  Mountains,  when  it  parts 
with  its  moisture  in  copious  showers  that  refresh  the 
country  and  keep  vegetation  ever  green  and  luxuriant. 
With  the  exception  of  one  or  two  bold  headlands,  the 
coast-line  is  low  but  denselv  wooded  to  the  verv  edg-e  of 
the  water ;  back  from  the  coast  the  land  is  level  for  some 
distance,  when  it  becomes  rolling,  then  hilly,  and  finally 
the  Kong  Mountains  are  reached  whose  summits  rise  to  a 
height  of  from  three  thousand  to  six  thousand  feet. 
Throughout  this  entire  region  even-  product  of  the  tropics 
will  not  only  grow,  but  flourish  luxuriantly,  and  under  the 
fostering  care  of  a  strong  and  liberal  government  it  could 
be  made  almost  the  garden  spot  of  the  world. 

This  rich  territory  should  be  at  once  taken  possession 
of  by  the  United  States  Government  and  placed  under  the 
care  of  the  Naval  Department  until  it  be  sufficiently  de- 
veloped to  admit  of  a  Territorial  form  of  government.  It 
is  true  it  was  once  the  policy  of  the  United  States  to  own 
no  colonies,  but  this  great  country  of  ours  may  well  feel 
she  is  past  the  stage  of  littleness  when  it  was  best  for  her 
to  stay  at  home  and  leave  the  formation  of  colonies  to  those 
who  had  a  surplus  population.  "  Policy  "  is  that  line  of 
conduct  which  it  is  best  to  pursue  under  the  circumstances, 
and  as  circumstances  change,  so  the  "  policy  "  of  a  country 
must  change  also.  It  was  well  enough  fifty  years  ago  to 
decide  to  form  no  colonies,  but  the  question  before  us  now 
is,  "  what  is  best  for  the  present  and  the  future?  " 

This  is  the  only  portion  of  Africa  that  is  not  already 
taken  possession  of  by  some  foreign  power.  It  is  the  only 
portion  the  United  States  can  get  without  war  or  purchase. 
It  is  always  recognized  abroad  as  an  American  colony,  and 
in  taking  full  possession  of  it  we  have  no  one  to  deal  with 
but  the  Liberians,  who  are  just  as  much  our  own  people  as 
any  of  the  colored  race  in  the  South.  It  is  directly  across 
the  ocean  from  our  entire  Atlantic  sea-board,  and  is,  con- 

5" 


LIBERIA. 

sequently,  easy  of  access.  It  would  be  the  greatest  blessing 
that  could  happen  to  the  country  itself ;  and  our  influence, 
united  to  that  of  the  English  at  Sierra  Leone  on  the  one 
side,  and  on  the  Gold  Coast  on  the  other,  would  be  a  most 
important  factor  in  the  future  development  of  Northern 
Central  Africa,  and  would  do  more  to  advance  the  cause  of 
Christianity  than  all  the  present  efforts  of  the  missionary 
societies  combined.  This  appropriation  of  Liberia  by  the 
United  States  is  a  most  important  matter ;  it  should  be 
speedily  acted  upon,  and  the  development  of  the  country 
proceeded  with  in  an  intelligent  and  energetic  manner. 

Liberia  does  not  possess  any  great  open  pathway  to 
the  interior,  but  she  is  as  near  as  Senegambia  or  Sierra 
Leone.  The  Niger  River,  or  the  flooded  Sahara,  are  either 
of  them  better  pathways  to  the  Soudan  than  can  be  found 
in  Liberia,  but  the  latter  is  worth  developing  for  her  own 
sake,  and  the  sooner  that  development  is  begun,  the  better 
for  her  own  prosperity,  and  the  good  of  the  whole  African 
lace.  The  opening  up  of  a  great  country  like  this  cannot 
be  so  well  effected  by  private  enterprise,  as  by  a  strong  and 
wealthy  government.  All  individual  and  corporate  efforts 
require  an  immediate  return  in  the  shape  of  profits  ;  this  is 
not  necessary  in  a  great  government  enterprise ;  many 
works  are  done  by  the  governments  of  the  earth  which  do 
not  "pay,"  and  yet  we  all  unite  in  saying  that  such  works 
are  wise  and  necessary.  So  in  opening  up  a  new  country, 
much  money  needs  to  be  spent  in  harbor  improvements 
and  in  constructing  roads  and  other  public  works ;  but 
when  the  land  has  been  occupied  and  cities  and  towns 
built,  such  taxes  may  be  imposed,  either  directly,  or  on 
imports,  as  will  reimburse  the  government  for  all  its  out- 
lay ;  this  money  can  then  be  used  to  develop  some  other 
region. 

After  taking  possession  of  the  country,  the  first  thing 
to  be  done  is  to  prohibit  the  export  of  labor,  and  the  im- 

51 


LIBERIA. 

port  of  guns,  powder  and  rum.  The  evils  that  have 
attended  our  management  of  the  Indians  should  be  avoided. 
The  guns  now  owned  by  the  people  are  muzzle-loading 
muskets  costing  from  one  dollar  and  sixty  cents  to  two 
dollars  and  fifty  cents  each  at  wholesale.  These  guns  are 
quite  unnecessary ;  they  are  not  needed  to  kill  game,  with- 
out them  they  would  be  unable  to  make  war  on  each  other, 
and  it  would  be  far  better  every  way  for  them  to  be  con- 
fiscated and  no  more  brought  into  the  country.  Owing  to 
the  improvident  nature  of  the  negro,  there  are  no  large 
accumulations  of  powder  anywhere  in  their  hands,  and  if 
it  was  made  a  contraband  article,  the  little  they  had  would 
soon  be  used  up  and  the  people  be  virtually  disarmed.  As 
for  intoxicants  of  every  form,  they  should  be  strictly  pro- 
hibited, for  they  are  productive  of  nothing  but  evil,  and  of 
that  continually.  Without  the  ability  to  fight,  and  with 
no  intoxicating  liquor  to  inflame  the  passions,  the  native 
element  would  be  easily  manageable,  and  it  is  with  them 
that  most  of  the  work  is  to  be  done.  There  is  one  thing 
more  ;  this  native  labor  must  be  kept  at  home. 

Liberia  is  the  only  portion  of  the  West  African  coast 
where  labor  may  be  obtained.  Every  steamer  that  passes 
(on  an  average  of  three  a  week)  takes  a  deck-load  of  these 
strong,  sturdy  natives  to  work  in  the  factories  as  coolies, 
porters  and  boatmen.  All  this  surplus  of  labor  must  be 
kept  at  home,  and  used  in  the  development  of  the  new 
colony.  They  are  already  accustomed  to  white  men  and 
their  ways,  and  they  speak  enough  English  to  understand 
all  that  is  said  to  them.  With  such  an  abundant  labor 
supply  at  hand,  public  works  could  be  pushed  forward 
without  delay. 

The  first  thing:  to  be  done  would  be  some  landing- 
facilities  at  Cape  Mount,  Basa  and  Cape  Palmas.  From 
these  three  points  roads  should  be  made  to  the  interior, 
direct  toward  the  Kong  Mountains,  for  a  distance  of  seventy 

52 


LIBERIA. 

or  eighty  miles  from  the  sea,  and  united  by  a  road  running 
parallel  with  the  coast.  This  latter  road  would  cross  the 
St.  Paul  and  Cestros  Rivers  somewhere  near  the  head  of 
boat  navigation,  and  with  the  first  three  roads  would  make 
five  lines  of  travel  to  the  middle  of  the  country.  This 
would  open  up  the  country  fairly  well  for  a  beginning  ;  a 
line  of  railway  could  then  be  surveyed  through  to  the  foot- 
hills of  the  Kong  Mountains  where  the  best  coffee,  cotton 
and  tobacco  plantations  would  be  established,  and  the  finest 
fruit  grown. 

What  treasures  the  Kong  Mountains  may  hold  con- 
cealed can  only  be  guessed.  As  gold  is  very  plentiful  not 
more  than  three  hundred  miles  to  the  eastward,  it  is  almost 
certain  to  be  met  with  here,  as  well  as  other  valuable 
minerals.  These  mountains  will  be  the  finest  place  in  the 
world  for  manufactories,  for  the  copious  rains  will  produce 
a  superabundance  of  water-power,  and  the  elevation  insures 
a  delightful  climate.  Beyond  the  mountains  lies  the  great 
Soudan,  a  portion  of  which  might  be  made  tributary  to 
Liberia. 

Let  us  see  what  it  is  that  we  propose : 

i st.  Inexpensive  landing  facilities  at  three  points  on 
the  coast. 

2nd.  Three  roads  toward  the  interior,  each  eighty 
miles  long. 

3rd.  One  road  connecting  these,  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  long. 

4th.     One  railway  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long. 

Four  hundred  and  ninety  miles  of  common  road,  and 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  railroad — we  have  railway 
companies  that  would  consider  such  a  job  a  comparatively 
small  affair ;  why  should  it  not  be  done  ? 

Why  could  not  an  incorporated  company  do  it  ? 

Because  it  requires  the  power  of  eminent  domain, 
possessed  only  by  governments.     It  is  absolutely  necessary 

53 


LIBERIA. 

to  control  customs,  to  prevent  the  export  of  labor,  and  to 
apply  local  government  to  the  entire  country.  A  company 
with  these  powers,  backed  by  the  United  States  Navy, 
could  do  it ;  but  such  companies  are  looked  upon  with  dis- 
trust in  these  days,  and  the  world  would  be  better  satisfied  to 
see  it  done  by  a  responsible  government.  There  would  be 
plenty  of  opportunity  for  individual  effort  even  after  all 
this  was  accomplished. 

The  country  at  present  is  of  no  more  use  to  the 
civilized  world  than  an  equal  area  of  the  Sahara,  except 
that  it  furnishes  laborers  to  other  parts  of  the  Coast ;  but 
even  this  is  no  real  gain,  for  if  these  men  could  not  be 
had,  the  traders  would  be  compelled  to  employ  the  natives 
in  their  own  vicinity,  which  would  be  an  advantage  to 
those  communities.  With  the  improvements  proposed,  and 
under  a  strong  and  liberal  government  such  as  the  United 
States  could  give  them,  this  little  strip  of  coast-line  on  the 
western  shores  of  the  Great  Continent  would  become  a 
garden,  in  every  way  delightful,  and  capable  of  supporting 
comfortably  twenty  millions  of  happy  people. 

On  Monday  afternoon  the  "  Kisanga "  passed  Mon- 
rovia, but  although  it  is  the  capital  of  Liberia,  it  has  but 
little  commerce,  and  it  is  seldom  that  an  English  steamer 
calls  there.  Occasionally  an  American  bark  anchors  in  the 
St.  Paul  River  and  loads  a  small  quantity  of  camwood  and 
coffee,  with  perhaps  a  few  casks  of  palm-oil ;  but  the  trade 
is  far  less  than  it  would  have  been  if  left  under  native  rule. 
Monrovia  is  situated  on  the  peninsula  of  Cape  Messurado 
and  presents  a  pleasing  appearance  from  the  sea.  The 
houses  which  are  scattered  somewhat  at  random,  are  mostly 
frame  buildings  of  one  story  or  one  story  and  a  half,  and 
raised  five  or  six  feet  from  the  ground  on  brick  or  stone 
foundations.  Most  of  them  are  painted  or  white-washed 
and  present  an  air  of  neatness  and  comfort.  There  are  a 
great  many  palms  growing  about  the  town  which  give  the 

54 


LIBERIA. 

place  an  unusually  cool  and  inviting-  appearance.  As  the 
steamer  passed,  our  friends  were  drinking  their  three 
o'clock  tea,  and  looking  shoreward  Mr.  Sinclair  said : 
"  What  a  pity  so  beautiful  a  place  as  this  is  not  of  more 
value  to  commerce  and  the  world." 

"  Yes,"  responded  Mr.  King,  "  the  coffee  that  is  grown 
here  is  in  my  opinion  the  best  in  the  world.  It  is  not  as 
fine  flavored  as  the  Java,  but  it  is  stronger  and  richer,  and 
is  largely  used  to  mix  with  poorer  coffee  grown  in  other 
countries,  to  bring  up  the  grade  of  the  weaker  coffee  to  its 
proper  strength ;  for  my  own  part  I  prefer  it  to  any 
Arabian  coffee  I  have  ever  tasted." 

"  There  is  very  little  of  it  to  be  had,"  said  the  Captain. 
"  I  doubt  if  so  much  as  a  hundred  bags  are  ever  shipped  at 
one  time." 

"  The  Liberian  coffee,"  added  Mr.  King,  "  differs  much 
from  the  varieties  grown  elsewhere,  for  it  does  well  in  the 
lowlands  near  the  sea,  whereas  in  Java,  Ceylon  and  the 
Brazils  it  is  found  necessary  to  grow  it  upon  hillsides,  and 
it  does  not  really  flourish  at  a  less  elevation  than  fifteen 
hundred  feet.  I  have  sometimes  thought  that  the  strength 
and  richness  of  the  berry  was  owing  to  the  superior  fer- 
tility of  the  lowlands,  and  that  perhaps  if  the  tree  were 
planted  on  the  hills,  the  appearance  of  the  bean,  as  well  as 
the  flavor  might  more  nearly  approach  that  of  Java  coffee." 

"This  country,"  asserted  Mr.  Schiff,  "  will  never  be 
worth  anything  until  white  men  come  here  and  make 
these  fellows  work.  It  is  all  very  well  to  talk  about  the 
black  man,  but  he  will  not  stick  steady  to  work  unless  he 
has  to.  I  have  lived  among  them  for  a  good  many  years 
and  I  find  the  great  trouble  with  them  is  that  if  left  to 
themselves  they  will  not  stick  to  anything  ;  they  will  work 
some  to  be  sure,  but  it  is  a  little  here,  and  a  little  there, 
and  in  the  end  it  amounts  to  a  little.  Ought  times  ought 
is  oughty-ought,  and  no  matter  how  long  a  string  you  have 

55 


LIBERIA. 

of  them,  they  are  of  no  value  to  you  except  you  put  a 
figure  in  front  of  them  ;  just  so  with  these  people  ;  put 
them  under  capable  white  men  and  they  will  do  good 
work,  but  by  themselves  they  accomplish  nothing." 

"  That  is  just  the  way  I  have  found  them,"  added  Mr. 
Sinclair,  "  if  I  left  them  to  themselves  they  accomplished 
little,  but  if  I  went  with  them  and  directed  them  it  was 
surprising  how  much  they  could  do." 

"  And  it  is  not  direction  alone  they  need,"  responded 
Mr.  Schiff,  "  they  must  be  made  to  feel  the  pressure  of 
necessity.  They  should  have  a  fair  compensation  for  their 
labor  I  grant  you,  but  at  the  same  time  they  should  be  com- 
pelled to  work.  If  these  people  were  compelled  to  work 
eight  hours  every  day  under  intelligent  direction,  they 
would  soon  make  this  land  look  like  one  great  pleasure- 
garden.  This  very  Liberia,  if  it  were  properly  cultivated, 
could  raise  enough  produce  to  load  a  steamer  every  day  in 
the  year.  I  tell  you,  the  time  has  come  when  the  world 
can  no  longer  afford  to  let  such  a  countrv  as  this  go  to 
waste  simply  to  supply  a  stamping  ground  for  a  lot  of  wild 
niggers  to  idle  around  in.  It  ought  to  be  put  to  some  bet- 
ter use." 

"  Well,  Schiff,"  said  Captain  Thompson,  "  I  believe 
you  are  more  than  half  right." 

"  I  know  I  am,"  answered  Air.  Schiff,  "  and  it  won't  be 
long  before  the  world  sees  it,  too." 

"  In  Ceylon,"  said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  wild  land  suited 
for  coffee  estates  readily  commands  sixty-five  dollars  an 
acre,  and  when  the  trees  have  attained  to  full  bearing  it 
will  bring  five  hundred  dollars  an  acre  ;  this  country  is  not 
more  than  half  as  far  away  as  Ceylon  and  I  see  no  reason 
why  it  should  not  become  as  valuable." 

"  Let  us  make  a  little  calculation,"  replied  Mr.  King, 
"  and  see  what  this  so-called  Republic  might  be  considered 
worth  at  the  valuation  you  have  just  named.     It  is  three 

56 


LIBERIA. 

hundred  miles  long  ;  now  suppose  we  take  a  strip  one  hun- 
dred miles  wide,  that  would  give  us  thirty  thousand  square 
miles,  or  nineteen  million,  two  hundred  thousand  acres  ;  and 
at  sixty-five  dollars  an  acre,  the  price  of  such  laud  in  Ceylon, 
it  would  be  worth  one  thousand,  two-hundred  and  forty-eight 
millions  of  dollars  besides  the  seashore,  and  the  mountain 
region.  I  guess  at  that  rate  it  would  pa}-  to  build  a  few 
hundred  miles  of  common  roads  and  railways." 

"  Liberia,"  observed  Mr.  Sinclair,  "  is  only  one  day's 
steaming  farther  from  England  than  Sierra  Leone,  why 
may  not  oranges  and  other  fruit  be  shipped  even  from 
here?" 

"  There  is  no  reason,"  responded  Captain  Thompson, 
"  and  not  to  England  only,  but  also  to  the  north  of  France, 
for  I  have  taken  man}-  a  deck  load  of  bananas  to  France 
from  Grand  Canary,  and  I  could  do  it  even  from  here  if  the 
'  trades  '  were  not  too  strong." 

"  How  much  income  would  an  acre  of  limes  produce  ?  " 
inquired  Mr.  Sinclair.  "  If  we  take  average  ground," 
replied  Mr.  King,  "  and  place  the  trees  twelve  feet  apart, 
which  would  give  abundance  of  room  for  mule  cultivation 
even  after  the  trees  were  full  grown,  there  would  be  three 
hundred  and  two  trees  to  the  acre.  The  third  year  they 
would  bear  a  few  fruits,  and  the  fourth  year  we  might 
expect  them  to  yield  one  peck  each,  or  seventy-five  bushels. 
After  the  sixth  year  the  yield  would  be  at  least  half-a-bushel 
of  fruit  to  a  tree,  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  bushels  to  the 
acre.  If  each  lime  was  wrapped  in  soft  paper  and  the  fruit 
packed  in  bushel  boxes,  it  would  bring  not  less  than  eight 
shillings  a  box  in  England,  and  sometimes  more.  If  we 
allow  one  shilling  for  box,  packing  and  shipping ;  two 
shillings  for  freight ;  and  one  shilling  for  carting  and  sell- 
ing, it  would  leave  four  shillings,  or  one  dollar  a  box  for 
the  grower  ;  that  would  be  from  seventy-five  dollars,  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars  an  acre." 

57 


LIBERIA. 

"  A  good  sized  tree  will  bear  more  than  half-a-bushel 
of  limes,"  said  Mr.  Schiff. 

"  Yes,  I  know  it  will,"  answered  Mr.  King.  "  I  have 
seen  trees  with  two  bushels  of  fine  fruit  on  each  tree  ;  I 
always  prefer  to  iinder-estimate  rather  than  over-estimate, 
which  was  why  I  said  half-a-bushel.  I  should  not  be  at  all 
surprised  if  an  acre  of  lime  trees  in  full  bearing  should 
yield  three  hundred  bushels  year  after  year." 

"  How  will  this  compare  with  the  same  amount  of 
land  planted  with  bananas  ?  "  asked  Mr.  Alexander. 

"  One  acre  of  bananas,"  said  Mr.  King,  "  planted  nine 
feet  apart,  and  allowing  only  one  stalk  to  a  hill,  would  pro- 
duce five  hundred  and  thirty-seven  bunches  of  fruit  a  year. 
The  bananas  shipped  from  the  Canaries  cost  two  shillings  a 
bunch  to  send  them  to  market  and  sell  them  ;  suppose  we 
allow  a  shilling  more  for  expenses  because  of  the  extra  dis- 
tance, it  would  leave  fifty  cents  a  bunch  for  the  grower,  or 
two  hundred  and  sixty-eight  dollars  an  acre,  and  the  work 
is  not  greater  or  more  tiresome  than  the  cultivation  of  an 
acre  of  corn."  "  If  we  allow  sixty-eight  dollars  an  acre," 
said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  for  the  expense  of  cultivation,  that 
would  leave  two  hundred  dollars  a  year  profit,  which  is 
equal  to  ten  per  cent,  on  an  investment  of  two  thousand 
dollars  ;  at  that  rate  land  out  here  would  be  pretty  val- 
uable." 

"  Well,"  responded  Mr.  King,  "  if  the  United  States 
would  take  hold  of  this  Republic  and  develop  its  resources 
with  skill  and  energy,  I  see  no  reason  why  the  best  of  this 
land  may  not  soon  be  worth  all  of  that.  Here  is  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  and  the  requisite  heat  and  moisture — 
man  must  do  the  rest." 

The  conversation  flowed  on  in  a  steady  stream,  the 
shores  of  the  so-called  Republic  being  constantly  in  sight, 
furnishing  them  continual  and  constant  themes  for  discus- 
sion.    The  coast-line  here  is  low  and  covered  with  a  rich 

58 


LIBERIA. 

forest  growth.  Every  two  or  three  miles  were  villages  of 
the  aborigines,  the  round-pointed  roofs  of  the  little  huts 
forming  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  heavy  wall  of  living 
green.  About  these  villages  were  great  numbers  of  cocoa- 
nut  trees,  showing  that  the  people  were  fond  of  its  fruit. 

"  How  much  do  you  suppose  an  acre  of  cocoanuts  would 
be  worth  ?  "  inquired  Captain  Thompson. 

"  I  think  there  are  other  ways  of  growing  cocoanuts," 
replied  Mr.  King,  "  that  would  be  as  well,  or  even  better 
than  growing  them  in  orchards  ;  but  since  you  have  asked 
the  question  I  will  answer  it.  To  give  the  trees  ample  room 
for  full  development  they  should  be  thirty  feet  apart  each 
way  ;  this  will  give  forty  trees  to  an  acre.  When  planted 
in  rows  along  a  road,  or  any  place  where  the  air  can  freely 
circulate  on  two  sides  of  them,  they  need  not  be  more  than 
half  that  distance  ;  but  in  an  orchard  they  should  have  light 
and  air  all  around  them.  At  my  home,  in  Gaboon,  I  have 
a  number  of  cocoanut  trees,  and  a  couple  of  years  ago  I 
planted  nearly  one  hundred  more.  I  found  that  my  trees 
averaged  from  ten  to  twelve  bunches  of  nuts  a  year,  with 
from  twelve  to  twenty  nuts  in  each  bunch.  If  we  take  the 
average  number  of  bunches  per  tree  per  annum,  at  ten  ; 
and  the  average  number  of  nuts  per  bunch  at  fifteen,  it 
will  give  us  one  hundred  and  fifty  nuts  per  tree  per  annum. 
This  is  an  entirely  safe  estimate,  for  I  have  one  tree  that 
gives  me  more  than  double  that  number  every  year.  These 
nuts  will  readily  bring  on  the  Coast  from  ten  dollars  to 
twenty  dollars  a  thousand,  which  would  be  from  one  dollar 
and  fifty  cents  to  three  dollars  a  tree,  or  from  sixty  to 
eighty  dollars  an  acre.  When  these  trees  once  come  into 
bearing  they  will  bear  continuously  for  a  hundred  years, 
and  will  require  no  labor  except  gathering  the  fruit."  "  It 
takes  the  trees  a  long  time  to  come  into  bearing,  does  it 
not  ?  "  asked  Mr.  Alexander. 


59 


LIBERIA. 

"  From  eight  to  ten  years,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "  but  in 
the  mean  time  the  space  between  the  trees  might  be  filled 
in  with  lime  trees  ;  these  would  pay  not  "only  for  the  culti- 
vation, but  a  profit  besides.  .  However,  I  do  not  advocate 
planting  cocoanuts  in  orchards,  for  I  think  orchard  land 
might  be  well  reserved  for  other  purposes  ;  it  seems  to  me 
the  cocoanut  is  just  the  tree  to  plant  along  the  side  of  roads, 
ditches  and  other  places  where  there  is  waste  or  vacant  land. 
The  roots  hold  the  soil  well  together  ;  the  trunk  is  free 
from  branches  that  might  impede  travel  or  obscure  the 
view,  and  the  top  gives  all  the  protection  needed  without 
making  so  dense  a  shade  as  to  be  damp  or  unwholesome. 
Suppose  a  road  was  bordered  on  either  side  by  a  row  of 
these  noble  trees  planted  at  intervals  of  twenty  feet  ;  that 
would  be  five  hundred  and  twenty-eight  trees  to  a  mile,  and 
at  the  lowest  estimate  we  made  as  the  income  from  one 
tree,  it  would  give  the  very  handsome  sum  of  seven  hun- 
dred and  ninety-two  dollars  a  year  from  the  sale  of  the  nuts  ; 
quite  enough  to  keep  the  road  in  the  highest  state  of 
repair." 

"  But  is  it  not  true,"  inquired  Mr.  Schiff,  "  that  the 
cocoanut  grows  best  is  the  sand  along  the  sea-beach  ?  Why 
some  people  say  they  will  not  grow  where  their  toes  do  not 
touch  the  salt  water." 

"  Some  people  tell  a  great  many  queer  stories,"  replied 
Mr.  King.  "  You  all  know  that  my  house  at  Gaboon  is  on 
the  top  of  an  iron-stone  hill,  and  that  the  soil  is  a  heavy 
clay,  yet  the  cocoanut  flourishes  there.  When  I  was  living 
on  the  Ogowe  river  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles  from 
the  sea,  I  planted  a  number  of  cocoanuts  in  1882,  all  of  which 
are  doing  well,  and  one  of  them  is  now  bearing  fruit.  I 
think  the  tree  needs  a  moist,  but  not  a  swampy  soil,  and 
my  experience  on  the  Ogowe  river  leads  me  to  believe  the 
cocoanut  can  be  grown  at  least  on  all  the  lowland  between 
the  sea  and  the  hills." 

*»  60 


LIBERIA. 

"  In  India,"  observed  Captain  Thompson,  "  the  cocoa- 
nnt  is  manufactured  into  oil." 

"  So  it  might  be  here,"  answered  Mr.  King,  "  and 
moreover  the  husk  makes  excellent  paper  stock.  By  the 
way,  did  you  know  the  nut  makes  the  best  of  milk  for 
coffee  ?  " 

"  You  don't  mean  that  miserable  water  in  the  cocoa- 
nut,  I  hope,  that  some  people  call  milk,  and  are  always 
praising  so  highly  ?  "  interrupted  Mr.  Scruff.  "  No,"  con- 
tinued Mr.  King,  "I  do  not.  I  quite  agree  with  you  that 
this  water  has  been  greatly  overpraised  ;  what  I  wanted  to 
tell  you  is  this  :  If  you  will  take  a  ripe  cocoanut  and  grate 
the  meat,  then  pour  on  a  very  little  boiling  water  and 
squeeze  the  pulp  in  a  cloth,  the  liquid  you  will  get  is  white 
like  milk,  as  rich  as  cream,  and  gives  coffee  a  peculiar]}' 
fine  flavor." 

"  I  never  heard  of  that  before,"  said  Mr.  Sinclair. 

"  Well,  you  try  it  some  time,"  added  Mr.  King,  "  and 
you  will  be  pleased  with  it." 

The  bell  now  rang  for  dinner  and  the  group  adjourned 
to  the  cabin  to  discuss  this  important  part  of  the  day's  pro- 
gramme. 

The  next  morning  at  eleven  o'clock  the  Kisanga 
swung  her  head  in-shore,  fired  a  gun  from  the  fore-castle, 
and  anchored  in  the  lee  of  some  enormous  rocks  against 
which  the  surf  beat  with  a  heavy  roar,  sending  up  clouds  of 
spray.  This  was  Grand  Cess,  one  of  the  principal  villages 
of  the  Kru-boys,  or  native  people  of  the  Liberian  Republic. 
The  town  is  in  two  divisions,  one  near  the  shore,  and  the 
other  on  a  low  hill  a  little  further  back  ;  altogether  there 
may  be  five  hundred  huts.  These  huts  are  circular,  with 
high,  pointed,  cone-shaped  roofs  made  of  dried  grass. 

The  appearance  of  the  country  was  very  pleasing  ;  the 
village  near  the  shore  was  nearly  buried  amid  cocoanut 
trees,  the  shore-line  beyond  a  deep,  heavy  forest,  while  up 

61 


LIBERIA. 

over  the  hill  were  grass  fields  with  heavy  forest,  some  dis- 
tance inland — as  good  a  country  as  one  need  wish  to  dwell 
in.  Presently  a  large  number  of  canoes  were  seen  coining 
off  from  land,  and  it  was  not  long  before  they  were  along- 
side and  their  owners  clambering  upon  deck.  They  were 
tall,  handsome  finely  developed  men,  with  dark  brown 
skins,  woolly  heads  and  frank,  open  faces.  Some  of  the 
older  of  them  had  "  books  "  or  orders  from  traders  further 
down  the  coast,  to  bring  gangs  of  men  with  them,  and 
these  orders  stated  that  the  makers  would  pay  the  passage 
of  such  gangs  to  any  captain  who  would  bring  them.  The 
Kru-boys  were  respectful  but  noisy,  and  had  a  great  deal  to 
sav  to  one  another  and  to  those  who  had  come  on  board  at 
Sierra  Leone.  The  canoes  were  not  more  than  two  feet 
wide  and  sometimes  not  so  much  as  that,  and  they  were 
turned  up  a  little  at  each  end.  There  were  no  benches  or 
seats  in  them,  but  the  Kru-men  sat  flat  upon  the  bottom 
with  their  legs  stretched  out  in  front  of  them.  When  the 
waves  slopped  over  into  the  canoes,  as  they  would  do  some- 
times, the  men  bailed  the  water  out  with  one  foot  which 
was  so  flat  and  large  it  could  be  used  just  like  a  scoop  5 
indeed,  they  can  often  use  their  feet  with  as  much  facility 
as  their  hands,  and  it  is  little  more  trouble  for  them  to  pick 
up  an  article  with  their  toes  than  for  ns  to  pick  it  up  with 
our  fingers. 

In  a  couple  of  hours  the  Kisanga  proceeded  on  her 
course,  having  about  a  hundred  of  the  Grand  Cess  "  boys  " 
on  board  as  passengers.  These  good-natured  savages 
brought  no  other  liiQ-g-ag-e  than  the  loin-cloths  thev  wore 
and  a  few  bundles  of  red  peppers,  and  their  recent  parting 
from  home  associations  and  friends  did  not  appear  to  sit 
heavily  on  their  minds,  and  yet  they  love  their  fatherland, 
or  "  we  country,"  as  they  call  it,  and  would  no  doubt 
rather  work  home  if  there  was  anything  to  do,  than  to  go 
away  for  a  year  or  more  at  a  time. 

62 


LIBERIA. 

There  is  not  a  more  singular  or  interesting  race  to  be 
found  anywhere  on  the  continent  of  Africa.  It  would  be 
difficult  to  find  better  specimens  of  muscular  development, 
men  of  more  manly  and  independent  carriage,  or  more  real 
grace  of  manner  anywhere  in  the  world  ;  in  fact,  these  are 
Nature's  noblemen.  It  is  true  their  heads  are  somewhat 
narrow  and  peaked,  but  they  are  capable  of  intellectual 
improvement  ;  fully  as  much  perhaps  as  other  races  of  sav- 
age men,  and  they  are  certainly  capable  of  being  exceed- 
ingly useful  in  the  development  of  their  country,  provided 
their  capabilities  are  guided  by  the  intelligence  and  skill  of 
the  white  man.  The  present  custom  on  the  Coast  is  for 
the  trader,  missionary  or  government  officer  who  wants 
laborers  for  any  kind  of  work,  to  give  some  elderly  Kru- 
boy  a  "  book  "  or  order  to  give  him  the  required  number  of 
hands  ;  he  then  pays  his  passage  to  Liberia  and  gives  him 
a  present  for  the  head-man  of  his  town,  usuallv  a  keg  or 
barrel  of  rum.  This  book  is  also  an  order  on  any  steamer 
captain  for  the  passage  of  the  "  boys,"  and  is  payable  on 
their  arrival.  The  Kru-boy  who  recruited  the  gang  is  now 
the  head-man  of  the  party,  responsible  to  the  chief  of  the 
village  at  home  for  the  safety  and  wages  of  the  boys,  and  to 
the  employer  for  the  obedience  of  the  entire  gang.  Until 
recently  engagements  were  for  three  years  ;  but  now  they 
will  remain  for  one  vear  onlv.     Thev  receive  as  wao-es  from 

J  j  J  O 

one  to  two  pounds  sterling  per  month,  and  a  regular  daily 
ration  of  rice  and  meat,  while  on  Saturday  they  <ret  in  addi- 
tion  a  head  of  tobacco  and  a  bottle  of  rum.  Besides  this, 
they  receive  one  or  two  fathoms  of  cloth  on  the  first  Sun- 
day in  every  month,  which  keeps  them  supplied  with 
clothes,  so  all  their  earnings  can  be  sayed  and  taken  home. 
The  steamer's  crew  that  were  taken  on  at  Sierra  Leone  un- 
paid in  English  silver,  but  the  men  from  the  Liberian 
coast  receive  their  pay  in  guns,  powder,  rum,  tobacco, 
cloth,  beads  and  other  merchandise. 

63 


LIBERIA. 

When  a  Kru-boy  reaches  home  with  his  year's  pay,  he 
meets  with  a  hearty  and  noisy  reception  on  the  part  of  his 
friends  ;  guns  are  fired,  dances  gotten  up,  and  all  who  are 
permitted  to  share  his  rum  are  loud  in  his  praise.  A  goat 
is  brought  in  from  the  plantation  and  killed,  and  a  great 
family  feast  is  prepared.  In  a  few  days  a  family  council  is 
held  for  the  purpose  of  dividing  the  booty  ;  if  the  boy  be 
young  he  is  given  a  few  trifling  articles  and  sent  away 
again  at  the  first  good  opportunity.  If,  however,  he  be 
somewhat  older,  a  wife  is  purchased  for  him,  and  he  feels 
that  he  has  taken  the  first  step  toward  a  standing  of  re- 
spectability in  the  community.  In  the  course  of  another 
month  he  is  prepared  for  another  voyage  and  on  his  return, 
if  he  bring  a  sufficient  amount  of  goods,  he  is  rewarded 
with  a  second  wife.  He  keeps  this  up  until  perhaps  he  is 
forty  years  of  age,  when  he  settles  down  permanently  with 
his  wives  and  is  ever  afterward  regarded  as  one  of  the  for- 
tunate men  of  his  town.  He  not  only  has  the  wives  he  has 
earned  by  honest  labor,  but  he  has  by  this  time  inherited  a 
number  by  the  death  of  father,  uncles  or  brothers,  and  has 
the  enviable  prospect  of  leaving  behind  him  when  he  dies, 
many  wives,  and  a  great  name. 

The  Kru  people  cultivate  the  ground,  raising  quite  a 
number  of  articles  of  food,  the  most  important  of  which  is 
rice.  The  kind  most  commonly  planted  is  a  variety  of  up- 
land rice,  with  a  small  grain  and  slightly  streaked  with 
brown.  It  is  sweeter  than  the  East  India  rice  and  much 
preferred  by  the  Krus.  In  Liberia  there  is  one  long  rainy 
and  one  long  dry  season  each  year ;  and  as  the  rice  can 
grow  on  the  upland  only  in  the  rainy  season,  the  people 
can  raise  but  one  crop  a  year.  Toward  the  middle  of  the 
dry  season  a  piece  of  fresh  ground  is  selected,  and  all  the 
trees,  underbrush  and  grass  is  cut  and  allowed  to  lie  on  the 
ground  so  as  to  become  thoroughly  dry.  At  the  first  inti- 
mation  of  the   coming  rains  this   mass  of  dry  leaves  and 

64 


LIBERIA. 

branches  is  set  on  fire  and  all  consumed  but  the  stumps  and 
larger  tree  trunks.  By  this  process  the  ground  is  covered 
with  a  good  coating  of  ashes  which  is  one  of  the  best  fer- 
tilizers for  this  crop,  but  the  farm,  with  the  blackened 
stumps  and  trees  looks  like  desolation  itself.  The  soil  is 
now  scratched  with  a  small  iron  instrument,  the  seed 
deposited,  and  the  work  is  done.  The  rice  sprouts  with 
the  first  rain,  and  usually  there  are  few  or  no  weeds  the 
first  season.  When  the  grain  begins  to  head,  myriads  of 
small  birds  come  to  join  in  the  feast,  and  the  field  needs  to 
be  constantly  guarded  throughout  the  day  to  prevent  them 
from  taking  more  than  their  share.  This  is  done  by  sta- 
tioning boys  in  different  parts  of  the  field  who  scare  the 
birds  as  best  they  can  with  stones,  beating  brass  pans,  and 
screaming  at  the  birds  in  an  energetic  manner. 

In  four  months  from  the  planting  the  rice  is  readv  to 
be  harvested.  Each  head  of  rice  is  cut  separately  making  the 
task  a  slow  and  laborious  one  ;  the  heads  of  grain  are  then 
tied  into  snug,  neat  bundles  and  carried  home  to  be  kept 
for  future  use.  These  bundles  of  rice  are  suspended  from 
the  rafters  of  the  house,  and  the  smoke  passing  up  around 
them  keeps  all  insects  away.  It  is  husked  only  as  needed  ; 
this  is  done  by  putting  the  grain  in  a  mortar  and  pounding 
it  with  long  pestles  until  the  chaff  is  loosened  from  the 
grain,  when  it  is  winnowed  by  pouring  from  one  pan  to 
another  while  the  wind  blows  the  chaff  away.  The  Kru 
matron  prides  herself  upon  her  skill  in  boiling  rice,  and 
there  is  no  doubt  the  art  is  carried  to  a  high  degree  of  per- 
fection, each  grain  standing  out  clear  and  distinct,  and  yet 
soft  and  mealy.  A  good  dish  of  such  rice,  covered  with 
fresh,  fragrant  palm  oil,  a  few  red  peppers  mashed  in  salt, 
and  a  nice  piece  of  broiled  monkey,  or  boiled  corn  beef,  is 
as  good  a  meal  as  any  man  need  desire. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  plant  rice  on  the  up-lands  when  from 
two  to  three  crops  might  be  raised  on  the  lowlands  of  the 

v  65 


LIBERIA. 

deltas  of  the  rivers,  but  to  make  these  lands  sure  for  culti- 
vation they  need  to  be  dyked  and  ditched  like  the  rice 
lands  of  Georgia  and  the  Carol inas,  but  as  the  Krus  do  not 
know  how  to  do  this  they  are  obliged  to  plant  on  the  up- 
lands and  get  but  one  crop  a  year.  '  The  work  of  cutting 
the  jungle  is  performed  by  the  men,  but  nearly  all  the  cul- 
tivation and  harvesting  is  done  by  the  women  and  boys. 
In  settling  the  country  and  opening  up  sugar  and  coffee 
estates,  as  well  as  other  branches  of  agricultural  industry, 
the  women  and  boys  could  be  depended  on  for  labor  as 
well  as  the  men.  In  Java  rice  is  raised  on  the  hillsides  by 
building  terraces,  making  the  enclosed  ground  level,  and 
then  turning  on  water  that  has  been  collected  in  large  res- 
ervoirs during  the  rains  ;  the  water  is  drawn  from  the  upper 
level  to  the  next  lower,  and  so  is  made  to  do  duty  several 
times  over.  This  is  no  doubt  an  excellent  plan,  as  it  gives 
the  cultivator  complete  control  of  the  necessary  physical 
conditions,  but  it  is  expensive  and  will  hardly  pay  in  Africa 
until  the  country  becomes  much  more  thickly  settled. 

At  four  o'clock  the  same  afternoon  the  Kisanga 
anchored  in  the  Bay  of  Cape  Palmas.  It  was  a  delightful 
afternoon.  As  it  was  the  very  close  of  the  rainy  season  for 
this  part  of  the  coast,  nature  was  wearing  her  brightest  garb 
of  green,  and  the  warm  afternoon  sun  filled  the  landscape 
with  light  and  beauty  ;  it  was  indeed  a  lovely  picture  that 
lay  spread  out  before  the  travelers  as  they  sat  upon  the 
deck  in  their  comfortable  chairs  and  gazed  shoreward. 
Cape  Palmas  is  a  long,  low,  rocky  headland  extending 
into  the  Atlantic  from  the  southwest  corner  of  Africa.  It 
has  a  good  lighthouse,  and  as  it  is  exposed  so  thoroughly 
to  the  sea  breezes,  it  ought  to  be  a  favorite  resort  for  those 
who  love  the  sea  air. 

The  town  is  built  on  the  cape  and  on  the  high  land 
to  the  eastward  and  presents  a  most  pleasing  appearance 
from  the  sea.     The  houses  are  mostly  of  stone,  some  of 

66 


LIBERIA. 

them  two  stories,  and  are  protected  from  the  sun  by  num- 
bers of  cocoanut  palms  beneath  whose  grateful  shade  they 
are  built.  The  country  near  Cape  Palmas  is  higher  and 
more  open  than  the  coast-line  to  the  north,  and  gives  signs 
of  a  higher  state  of  cultivation,  and  a  larger  population. 
Cape  Palmas  Bay  is  a  fair  harbor,  although  not  a  large 
one.  There  are  a  few  -sunken  rocks  that  need  to  be 
removed  and  then  the  anchorage  will  be  both  good  and 
safe.  The  coast-line  to  the  eastward  is  much  troubled  with 
heavy  surf,  but  the  long  point  of  rocks  that  extends  from 
the  Cape  protects  the  Bay  and  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  ves- 
sels from  coming  alongside  piers  when  these  shall  have  been 
built.  Cape  Palmas  would  be  a  good  terminus  for  a  rail- 
way, as  the  open  character  of  the  country  would  make  rail- 
way building  easier  than  the  heavy  wooded  lands  to  the 
north.  Lying  as  it  does  in  the  steamer  track,  it  might 
soon  build  up  a  large  trade  in  steamer  supplies,  especially 
every  kind  of  fresh  provisions ;  indeed  it  is  a  wonder  that 
this  has  not  been  done  before.  It  would  be  an  excellent 
place,  too,  for  a  coaling  station,  and  the  railway  might 
receive  much  traffic  from  coal  brought  down  from  the 
mountains  for  use  on  ocean  steamers.  As  our  friends  looked 
shorewards  for  some  reason  or  other  they  fell  to  talking 
about  breadfruit — perhaps  the  sight  of  some  of  the  trees 
brought  the  subject  to  their  minds. 

"  I  wish,"  said  Mr.  Sinclair,  "  that  breadfruit  could  be 
carried  to  England  ;  they  would  be  a  novelty  in  our 
markets." 

"  There  is  no  use  of  you  wishing  that,"  responded  Mr. 
Schiff,  "  for  you  know  well  enough  a  green  breadfruit  is 
not  good,  and  a  ripe  one  goes  to  squash  in  three  or  four 
days." 

"I  know  they  will  not  save  long,"  replied  Mr.  Sin- 
clair, "but  what  is  to  hinder  drying  them  much  as  we  desiccate 

67 


LIBERIA. 

potatoes,  and  then  not  only  exporting  them  to  other  coun- 
tries, but  also  using  them  upon  ships  during  long 
voyages?  " 

"  There  is  no  good  reason  that  I  can  see,"  answered 
Mr.  King.  "  Some  of  the  patent  evaporators  made  in  our 
country  would  do  the  work  admirably.  The  breadfruit  is 
sweeter  than  the  potato  and  contains  a  greater  quantity  of 
nutritious  matter.  It  seems  to  me  it  might  become  a  com- 
mon article  of  food  in  almost  even'  land." 

"  How  many  breadfruits  do  you  think  could  be  raised 
on  an  acre?"  inquired  Captain  Thompson. 

"  The  breadfruit  tree,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "  spreads  its 
lower  limbs  over  a  wide  surface  and  should  be  planted  fully 
forty  feet  apart,  which  will  give  twenty-seven  trees  to  the 
acre.  I  do  not  know  how  it  may  be  here,  but  at  Gaboon, 
while  the  trees  have  some  on  nearly  all  the  time,  yet  they 
bear  two  main  crops  a  year  ;  a  hundred  ripe  fruits  to  a  tree 
a  year  is  a  fair  average,  although  many  trees  will  exceed 
that ;  each  fruit  will  equal  half  a  peck  of  the  best  Irish 
potatoes,  so  that  the  product  of  one  tree  may  be  set  down 
as  equal  to  twelve  and  a  half  bushels  of  potatoes,  or  three 
hundred  and  thirty-seven  bushels  to  the  acre.  I  think  the 
yield  of  my  trees  at  Gaboon  was  fully  equal  to  this." 

"  A  native  family  with  a  few  breadfruit  trees  about 
their  little  home  need  never  want  for  food,"  observed  Mr. 
Alexander. 

"  Indeed  they  need  not,"  responded  Mr.  King,  "  these 
breadfruits  are  not  only  very  good  eating  for  man,  but  they 
are  relished  by  goats,  pigs  and  chickens  when  boiled  and 
fed  to  them,  and  much  cheaper  and  more  easily  raised  than 
grain.  I  think  they  are  well  worth  raising  for  feeding  pur- 
poses alone.  If  grown  in  orchards  cocoanuts  should  be 
grown  with  them,  for  the  lower  branches  of  the  breadfruit 
take  up  so  much  room,  but  the  space  above  is  largely 
vacant,  and  this  can  be  profitably  filled  by  the  waving  tops 

68 


LIBERIA. 

of  the  cocoanuts  ;  it  seems  to  me  the  two  were  made  to  grow 
together.  This  is  the  way  I  have  planted  them  at  Gaboon, 
and  I  find  the  plan  to  work  nicely." 

The  Kisanga  did  not  remain  long  at  Cape  Palmas,  for 
there  is  at  present  but  little  trade  there,  although  under  a 
wise  and  able  government  it  might  become  a  city  and  a 
valuable  commercial  port.  As  has  already  been  observed, 
the  openness  of  the  country  indicates  that  a  railway  might 
easily  be  built  up  to  the  hills,  and  even  through  the  moun- 
tains to  the  plains  of  the  Soudan.  By  sundown  the  ship 
had  rounded  the  shoal  off  the  point  of  the  Cape  and  turned 
her  head  due  east  for  Cape  Three  Points,  and  when  our 
friends  came  on  deck  after  dinner  to  enjoy  their  evening 
smoke  and  have  their  usual  chat  together,  Cape  Palmas  had 
been  lost  to  view  behind  them. 

For  a  little  while  no  one  spoke,  as  each  seemed  to  be 
absorbed  in  the  beauties  of  the  night.  Mr.  Alexander  was 
the  first  to  break  the  silence.  "  I  have  been  thinking," 
said  he,  "  what  a  country  this  would  be  for  raising  rice  and 
other  tropical  products  by  companies  possessed  of  large 
capital.  I  have  been  in  Japan  and  from  what  I  saw  of  rice- 
growing  there,  I  am  sure  it  can  be  successfully  grown  here. 
If  these  Kru-boys  in  their  imperfect  way  can  produce 
enough  of  it  to  keep  their  families,  what  might  not  be  done 
when  its  cultivation  is  carried  on  with  exactness  and  skill. 
In  Japan  two  crops  are  raised  on  the  same  ground  each 
year,  and  the  product  is  from  thirty  to  fifty  bushels  per 
acre." 

"  Yes,  but  it  has  to  be  irrigated,"  interrupted  Mr. 
Schiff. 

"  That  is  true,"  replied  Mr.  Alexander,  "  but  why  not 
irrigate  it  here  ?  Suppose  when  the  railway  is  built  from 
Cape  Palmas  an  English  company  should  purchase  a  large 
estate  among  the  foothills  of  the  Kong  mountains.  Upon 
the  top  of  one  of  these  hills  or  near  the  top,  let  large  res- 

69 


LIBERIA. 

ervoirs  be  built  to  collect  water  during  the  long  rainy 
season.  Then  let  the  gentler  slopes  be  terraced  and  rice 
planted  on  the  terraces  ;  I  have  seen  it  grown  in  this  man- 
ner in  Japan,  and  the  yield  was  very  large.  The  first  crop 
could  be  planted  at  the  beginning  of  the  rains  just  as  the 
Kru-boys  do,  and  then  another  crop  planted  and  carried 
through  the  dry  season  by  irrigation." 

"  Do  you  think  it  would  pay  ? "  inquired  Captain 
Thompson. 

"  It  pays  in  Japan,  in  China,  in  Java  and  other  coun- 
tries," answered  Mr.  Alexander,  "  and  why  not  here  ?  Take 
the  minimum  yield  of  thirty  bushels  per  acre  ;  the  first 
crop  would  pay  for  the  labor  bestowed  on  both  crops,  and 
the  second  crop  could  go  for  interest  on  investment,  and 
profit.  Thirty  bushels  per  acre  is  eighteen  hundred 
pounds,  and  at  three  cents  a  pound  would  be  fifty-four  dol- 
lars, which  is  ten  per  cent,  on  five  hundred  and  fort}'  dol- 
lars an  acre,  and  it  is  not  likely  that  the  cost  of  preparing 
the  ground  would  exceed  that." 

"  Such  beds  would  be  just  the  place  to  raise  these  large 
Spanish  onions,"  said  Mr.  King.  "  In  the  Island  of  Ber- 
muda large  quantities  of  onions  are  raised  for  early  ship- 
ment to  New  York,  and  they  always  bring  high  prices  ;  if 
planted  on  your  terraced  fields  at  the  beginning  of  the  dry 
season,  say  October  first,  they  would  be  ready  to  harvest  in 
February,  and  reach  England  and  the  continent  in  March 
when  the  market  is  bare  of  onions  and  the  prices  high.  In 
America  when  onions  are  raised  in  a  commercial  way,  the 
yield  is  from  four  to  five  hundred  bushels  per  acre  ;  this 
would  bring  you  in  from  five  to  ten  times  as  much  as  your 
second  crop  of  rice,  and  in  a  few  years  would  pay  for  the 
farm.  Indeed,  there  is  almost  no  end  to  what  might  be 
done  here  in  the  way  of  farming  where  ample  capital  is 
used,  provided  there  was  a  strong,  able  government,  and 
the  country  properly  opened  up  by  good  roads  and  railways, 

7° 


LIBERIA. 

for  the  markets  of  the  densely  populated  countries  of 
Europe  are  within  reach  even  for  perishable  products, 
while  India  and  the  East  Indies  are  too  far  away  to  send 
such  things  as  fruits  and  onions  to  Europe." 

"  And  then,"  said  Mr.  Schiff,  "  ducks  could  be  raised 
on  the  ponds  and  sent  down  to  Cape  Palmas  to  sell  to  the 
steamers."  Mr.  Schiff  liked  plenty  of  good  things  to  eat  ; 
a  failing  common  to  a  great  many  very  excellent  men.  "  I 
do  not  live  to  eat,"  he  would  sometimes  say,  "  but  since  I 
must  eat  to  live,  I  think  I  might  just  as  well  eat  something 
good." 

For  the  next  two  days  the  Kisanga  steamed  steadily 
along  past  what  used  to  be  called  the  Ivory  Coast,  or 
Drewin  Coast.  There  are  few  foreign  settlements  on  this 
coast  and  no  nation  has  as  yet  appropriated  it,  except  that 
the  French  have  a  small  settlement  at  Grand  Bassam.  This 
entire  coast  as  far  as  the  Assinee  river  should  by  rights  be- 
long to  Liberia,  and  the  United  States  States  Government 
should  at  once  claim  it.  There  is  a  lagoon  running  the 
entire  length  of  the  coast  parallel  with  the  beach,  and  only 
separated  from  the  sea  by  a  narrow  strip  of  sand  a  few 
hundred  yards  wide.  Into  this  lagoon  the  rivers  empty, 
and  it  forms  an  excellent  waterway  for  inland  navigation. 
The  view  from  the  deck  of  a  passing  steamer  presents  a 
low  line  of  dense  jungle  with  numerous  villages  almost 
buried  among  the  thick  cocoanut  groves.  Along  the  lagoon 
the  forest  growth  is  of  the  richest  and  most  exuberant  that 
can  be  conceived,  the  trees  being  fairly  covered  with  vines 
and  all  kinds  of  creepers,  and  every  plant  struggling  for  a 
share  of  the  brilliant  sunlig-ht.  Bevond  the  lagoon,  and 
back  from  the  rivers,  the  country  rises  to  a  table-land  of 
moderate  height,  and  so-  continues  up  to  the  foothills  of  the 
Coast  Range. 

At  present  there  is  little  or  no  ivory  sent  from  this  part 
of  the  coast,  that  trade  having  drifted  gradually  away  to  the 

71 


LIBERIA. 

south  ;  the  principal  exports  are  palm-oil,  cam-wood  and 
gold-dust.  The  gold  comes  mostly  from  the  interior,  and 
there  is  little  doubt  that  large  stores  of  it  will  be  found  in 
the  mountains  when  these  shall  come  to  be  thoroughly 
explored.  The  natives  do  not  dig  for  it  but  wash  the  river 
sands  in  wooden  bowls  or  calabashes  and  thus  obtain 
enough  to  purchase  what  few  goods  they  need. 

Cam-wood  produces  a  beautiful  red  dye.  This  tree  is 
found  scattered  through  the  forest  much  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  ebony  ;  it  is  more  abundant  among  the  hills  than 
near  the  coast.  The  most  valuable  part  is  the  stump  and 
roots  ;  its  value  is  from  eight}-  to  one  hundred  dollars  a  ton. 
Besides  cam-wood  there  are  many  valuable  woods  in  the 
forest ;  some  of  these  are  well  suited  for  cabinet  work,  and 
others  excellent  for  building  purposes.  These  trees,  how- 
ever, grow  very  differently  from  what  they  do  in  a  northern 
forest  ;  at  the  north  the  woods  frequently  contain  not  more 
than  one  or  two  varieties  of  trees,  or  at  most  six  or  seven  ; 
here  in  the  tropics  there  may  be  twenty  or  thirty  kinds  on 
a  single  acre,  and  these  will  be  bound  together  with  a  per- 
fect net-work  of  vines  which  makes  the  work  of  timber  cut- 
ting more  expensive  than  in  a  pine  or  hemlock  forest.  On 
the  contrary,  when  a  large  tree  of  some  fine-grained  cabinet 
wood  is  cut  and  cleared  of  the  underbrush,  it  is  worth 
twenty  pine  logs,  so  that  notwithstanding  the  additional 
expense  and  difficulty  of  cutting,  it  may  pay  a  larger  per 
cent,  of  profit. 

Palm  oil  is  the  most  important  of  the  three  articles  of 
export.  When  fresh  it  is  of  a  transparent  orange  color, 
and  is  extensively  used  in  England  and  on  the  Continent 
in  the  manufacture  of  the  finer  kinds  of  soap,  in  candles  of 
an  excellent  quality,  by  the  apothecary  for  various  purposes, 
and  as  a  lubricant  for  the  more  delicate  parts  of  steam  ma- 
chinery. It  is  quite  likely,  too,  that  it  is  used  to  adulterate 
many  kinds  of  food.     It  can  be  refined  until  it  becomes  as 

72 


LIBERIA. 

transparent  as  water,  and  is  then  excellent  to  use  instead  of 
lard  or  other  fat  -for  cooking  purposes.  It  usually  sells  on 
arrival  for  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  dollars  a  ton,  and  is 
not  likely  ever  to  be  much  lower. 

The  oil  palm  is  a  beautiful  tree,  having  as  many 
fronds  as  a  cocoanut  and  of  a  deeper  green  ;  and  as  its 
fringed-like  leaves  wave  and  rustle  in  the  breeze,  it  forms  a 
striking  feature  in  the  African  landscape.  It  extends  in  a 
belt  of  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  miles  in  width  from  the 
Sahara  to  the  Benguela  ;  it  also  follows  the  river  valleys  in 
some  cases  to  a  considerable  distance  inland,  but  as  a  rule  it 
is  not  found  in  the  interior  of  the  country. 

The  nuts  grow  in  clusters  containing  from  a  peck  to  a 
half  bushel,  and  are  of  a  deep  orange  color  at  one  end,  and 
a  brilliant  scarlet  at  the  other ;  anything  more  beautiful 
than  a  heap  of  fresh  palm  nuts  it  would  be  hard  to  find. 
They  are  about  the  size  of  a  guinea's  egg}  and  taper  at  both 
ends.  The  oil  is  contained  in  a  fibrous  pulp,  inside  of 
which  is  a  hard  black  stone  or  pit  enclosing  a  pure  white 
kernel  the  size  of  a  filbert.  These  kernels  are  in  great 
request  in  France,  where  a  fine  table  oil  is  made  from  them, 
and  they  are  sent  from  the  Coast  by  the  ship-load.  In 
gathering  the  nuts  the  natives  climb  the  trees  by  means  of 
a  loop,  or  hoop,  made  of  a  vine.  This  hoop  is  about  three 
feet  in  diameter  and  encloses  the  tree  ;  the  climber  then 
puts  it  over  his  head  and  lets  it  rest  in  the  hollow  of  the 
back,  being  obliged  to  lean  backwards  a  little  from  the  tree 
to  make  it  keep  its  place  ;  he  then  takes  hold  of  each  side 
of  the  hoop  with  his  hands  and  leaning  forward  for  a  mo- 
ment, he  hitches  it  up  a  little  where  it  goes  around  the 
tree  ;  this  makes  it  slant  upward  from  his  body  to  the  tree  ; 
he  then  clasps  the  tree  firmly  with  his  feet  and  steps  one 
step  upward  carefully  pressing  back  against  the  hoop  ;  then 
he  hitches  it  up  a  little  way  again,  takes  another  step 
upward,  hitches  it  again,  and  so  walks  up  the  tallest  tree 

73 


LIBERIA. 

without  difficulty  or  fear.  Of  course,  if  the  hoop  should 
break  he  would  fall  backward  into  space,  and  if  he  failed  to 
press  against  it  sufficiently,  he  would  fall  through  to  the 
ground  ;  but  he  does  not  stop  to  consider  the  chances  and 
will  walk  up  the  tallest  palm  tree  as  unconcernedly  as  a 
dude  will  promenade  the  avenue.  Arriving  at  the  top,  this 
ingenious  arrangement  permits  him  the  free  use  of  his 
hands,  and  he  soon  cuts  the  coveted  cluster  of  nuts,  which 
falls  heavily  to  the  ground. 

To  extract  the  oil  the  nuts  are  boiled  to  soften  the 
pulp,  and  then  thrown  in  a  large  trough  and  pounded  until 
the  pulp  is  separated  from  the  hard  inside  pits  ;  the  trough 
is  then  filled  with  clean  water  and  as  soon  as  the  mass  at 
the  bottom  ferments,  the  oil  rises  to  the  surface  and  is 
skimmed  off.  The  hard  pits  are  then  taken  out  and  cracked 
and  the  kernels  put  into  baskets  for  sale.  As  there  is  no 
such  thing  as  lard  or  butter  in  the  country,  large  quantities 
of  the  fresh  palm  oil  is  used  for  food.  It  has  a  peculiar 
flavor  quite  unlike  anything  produced  at  the  North,  but  one 
nevertheless  that  all  foreigners  soon  become  fond  of,  and  a 
good  palm-oil  chop  is  justly  esteemed  one  of  the  delicacies 
of  the  country. 


74 


Chapter  IV 


GOLD  COAST. 


AT  three  o'clock  on  Friday  afternoon  the  Kisanga 
anchored  off  Cape  Coast  Castle,  the  principal 
port  of  entry  on  the  Gold  Coast.  Eight  miles  to 
the  westward  was  Elmina,  an  old  Dutch  settle- 
ment, founded  some  years  before  the  discovery  of  America, 
and  for  a  long  time  an  important  centre  for  the  trade  in 
slaves  and  gold  dust.  At  present  it  belongs  to  England,  as 
does  indeed  the  greater  part  of  the  Gold  Coast.  Cape  Coast 
Castle  is  well  known  to  the  present  generation  of  readers 
as  the  starting  point  of  the  expedition  of  Sir  Garnet  Wolse- 
ley  in  1873  for  the  capture  of  Coomasie,  the  capital  of 
Ashanti.  It  is  a  fair  sized  town,  with  some  well  built 
streets,  and  with  the  large  fortress  on  a  commanding  bluff 
jutting  into  the  sea,  it  presents  an  inviting  appearance  from 
the  deck  of  an  incoming  vessel. 

The  town  of  Cape  Coast  is  the  natural  outlet  for  the 
commerce  of  the  great  negro  kingdom  of  Ashanti,  and  by 
a  moderate  amount  of  effort  on  the  part  of  the  British 
Government  it  might  become  an  important  seaport,  as  well 
as  a  large  and  flourishing  city.  The  greatest  natural  draw- 
back to  its  prosperity  is  the  heavy  surf,  but  this  should  not 
be   an   insurmountable  difficulty  ;  the  surf   is   no    heavier 

75 


GOLD    COAST. 

than  at  Madras,  nor  the  anchorage  more  exposed  than  at 
Colombo  in  Ceylon,  and  even  as  it  is  the  army  of  Sir  Garnet, 
as  well  as  all  the  stores  needed  for  the  campaign,  were 
landed  here,  and  a  reasonable  expenditure  would  make  the 
landing  a  fairly  good  one.  The  town  has  the  reputation 
for  being  very  hot  in  the  dry  season,  but  the  same  is  true 
of  Madras  and  several  other  commercial  centres  of  the  East, 
and  perhaps  Cape  Coast  is  not  hotter  than  Calcutta,  certainly 
not  hotter  than  Aden.  The  site  of  the  town  is  quite  hilly, 
and  it  is  very  likely  the  heat  is  only  great  in  the  low  places 
between  the  hills  where  the  houses  are  sheltered  from  the 
breeze.  On  the  hillsides  facing  the  sea,  and  especially  along 
the  sea  beach  toward  Elmina,  there  is  abundant  room  for 
cool  and  comfortable  dwellings  through  which  the  sea 
breeze  would  sweep  finely. 

The  Gold  Coast  has  this  great  advantage  that  it  is  only 
half  the  distance  from  England  that  India  and  Burmah  are, 
and  it  is  not  complicated  with  any  "  Eastern  question." 
There  is  no  Russia  to  sweep  down  upon  it  from  the  north, 
and  no  narrow  seas  nor  canals  to  pass  through  in  order  to 
get  to  it ;  the  whole  broad  Atlantic  extends  from  one  country 
to  the  other,  and  no  dispute  with  Continental  nations  can 
close  so  wide  a  path.  The  distance  from  Plymouth  is  about 
four  thousand  three  hundred  nautical  miles,  and  an  eighteen 
knot  boat  could  cover  the  course  in  ten  days.  This  near- 
ness to  the  mother  country,  and  wide,  free  path,  are  import- 
ant factors  in  the  future  development  of  the  country. 

The  scenery  along  the  Gold  Coast  is  quite  different 
from  that  on  the  Liberian  and  Ivory  Coasts  ;  the  shore-line 
is  no  longer  low  and  densely  wooded  with  palms  and  other 
forest  trees,  but  high  ridges  rise  gently  from  the  water's 
edge  and  stretch  back  into  the  country ;  hills  of  variable 
form  and  outline  ;  verdant  fields  with  graceful  undulations, 
and  a  variety  and  richness  of  color  and  form,  charm  the  eye 
as  the  swiftly  moving  steamer  unfolds  the  beauteous  land- 

76 


GOLD   COAST. 

scape  to  the  delighted  voyager.  The  character  of  the 
native  population  also  changes  ;  there  are  no  more  circular 
huts  with  high-pointed  roofs,  but  rectangular  houses  made 
of  clay  ;  no  more  bright-faced,  manly,  well-developed  Kru- 
men,  but  tall,  very  slim,  very  dark  colored  men,  with  a 
grave  cast  of  countenance.  These  are  mechanics  rather 
than  agriculturalists,  and  readily  learn  every  kind  of 
handicraft.  Most  of  them  have  been  somewhat  educated 
and  can  read  and  write  in  their  own  language  and  very 
often  in  English  too.  They  are  willing  to  work,  but  do  not 
go  from  home  so  constantly  and  persistently  as  do  the 
Kru-men,  although  single  adventurers  are  found  on  nearly 
every  steamer  going  to  some  other  part  of  the  Coast  to  try 
their  fortune.  Nearly  all  the  coopers  found  in  the  factories, 
and  many  of  the  carpenters,  masons  and  cooks  are  Cape 
men. 

The  face  of  the  country  after  leaving  the  immediate 
sea-coast  region  consists  of  wave-like  undulations  for  eighty 
to  one  hundred  miles,  after  which  there  are  low  hills,  and 
these  gradually  increase  in  height  until  the  Kong  mountains 
are  reached  at  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 
The  greater  portion  of  this  country  is  covered  with  thick 
forest,  palms,  bamboos,  and  other  water-loving  plants  in  the 
hollows,  and  hard-wood  trees  on  the  higher  ground.  Many 
valuable  woods,  such  as  ebony,  mahogany  and  teak,  abound, 
and  all  of  this  heavy  growth  can  be  made  useful  in  one  way 
or  another.  Much  of  this  timber  can  be  floated  down  to 
the  sea,  the  heavier  wood  buoyed  up  by  such  light  wood  as 
bamboo  and  cotton-wood  ;  or  very  light-draft,  stern-wheeled 
steamers  might  bring  it  down.  At  some  central  points  it 
may  be  well  to  establish  saw-mills,  and  the  portable  kind 
might  be  used  everywhere.  Some  of  these  trees  bear  valu- 
able nuts  and  fruits,  and  these  might  be  left  to  beautify  the 
landscape  and  bring  in  an  annual  income  to  the  owner. 
There  are  many  kinds  of  edible  nuts  that  would  bring  good 

77 


GOLD    COAST. 

prices  in  European  markets  as  soon  as  they  were  once  fairly 
introduced.  This  valuable  timber  supply,  so  near  to  home 
markets,  should  not  be  longer  left  untapped. 

The  soil  near  the  sea-coast  is  mostly  sand,  with  a  few 
inches  only  of  leaf-mold,  and  in  some  localities  almost  none 
at  all ;  but  in  the  forest  region  the  deep  rich  humus  will 
furnish  food  for  valuable  crops  for  generations.  This  heavy 
soil  is  capable  of  producing  in  abundance  every  product  of 
the  tropics ;  it  has  been  lying  untilled  since  the  world 
began,  every  year  adding  to  its  fertility  by  leaf-mold  and 
decaying  tree-trunks,  waiting  until  it  should  be  needed  to 
furnish  food  for  man  ;  the  time  has  come  when  the  accumu- 
lated riches  should  be  used  for  the  benefit  of  mankind. 
The  world  is  rapidly  increasing  in  population,  and  from 
many  lands  there  goes  forth  yearly  a  constantly  increasing 
stream  of  emigrants  seeking  homes  and  sustenance  in  lands 
beyond  the  sea ;  let  them  come  to  the  Gold  Coast  and 
beneath  their  own  orange  and  cocoanut  trees  enjoy  the 
products  of  this  fruitful  soil.  Sugar-cane,  plantains  and 
oil-palms  will  be  especially  adapted  to  the  valleys  ;  cotton, 
tobacco,  coffee,  bananas  and  all  kinds  of  fruit,  to  the  higher 
ridges.  Some  of  the  vegetables  known  in  Europe  will  grow 
well  here  ;  these  are  tomatoes,  peppers,  eggplants,  cucum- 
bers, squashes,  melons,  onions,  sweet  corn,  lima  beans,  sweet 
potatoes,  mustard  and  several  kinds  of  spinach  ;  while  in 
the  cool  season,  with  the  aid  of  irrigation,  dwarf  beans, 
beets,  cabbage,  carrots,  lettuce,  peas  and  radishes  can  be 
grown  in  fair  quantities  at  no  greater  cost  than  at  home. 
It  is  not  needful  to  go  over  the  long  list  of  fruits  that  are 
especially  adapted  to  this  climate,  one,  only,  need  be  men- 
tioned ;  the  granadilla.  This  superb  fruit  belongs  to  the 
same  variety  of  plants  as  the  passion  flower.  The  vine  is 
ornamental,  and  the  blossom  a  handsome  flower  six  inches 
in  diameter,  with  a  delicate  fragrance.  The  fruit  is  oblong, 
eighteen  inches  in  length  by  eight  in  diameter,  and  with  a 

7S 


GOLD    COAST. 

smooth  skin  of  a  rich  old  gold  color ;  the  flesh  is  an  inch 
and  a  half  thick  and  the  cavity  of  the  fruit  contains  from  a 
pint  to  a  quart  of  soft,  pulpy  seeds  and  juice,  of  the  most 
delightful  fragrance,  and  delicious  taste.  The  old  Scotch- 
man who  is  credited  with  saying  that  "  doubtless  God  could 
have  made  a  better  berry  than  the  strawberry,  but  doubtless 
God  never  did,"  simply  exposed  his  ignorance,  for  had  he 
come  to  Africa  he  would  have  tasted  a  fruit  with  more  "  bou- 
quet "  than  a  strawberry.  If  this  delicious  fruit  could  in 
some  way  be  preserved,  vast  quantities  of  it  could  be  sold 
in  the  markets  of  the  North.  These  vines  grow  rapidly 
from  slips,  and  continue  in  bearing  for  two  or  three  years. 

The  sands  in  the  river-beds  throughout  the  hill  region 
abound  in  gold,  mostly  in  the  form  of  small  flakes  and 
grains ;  these  sands  are  washed  to  a  trifling  extent  by  the 
native  tribes,  who  in  this  way  obtain  enough  "dust"  to 
purchase  whatever  they  need.  There  are  mines  where 
large  nuggets  are  obtained,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  in 
the  mountains  there  are  valuable  deposits.  The  mines  now 
known  to  the  natives  are  only  scratched  on  the  surface  ;  if 
they  were  properly  tunneled  and  the  veins  carefully  fol- 
lowed, the  profit  of  working  them  would  be  enormous. 
Besides  gold,  iron  is  known  to  abound,  and  as  iron  and  coal 
usually  are  found  near  together  ;  so  it  is  confidently  believed 
that  coal  will  yet  be  discovered. 

The  value  of  this  mountain  region  as  a  place  of  resi- 
dence for  a  large  European  population,  can  scarcely  be 
over-estimated.  Contrary  to  experience  in  northern  coun- 
tries, these  mountains  are  covered  with  fertile  soil,  and  as 
perpetual  spring  and  summer  reign,  this  soil  can  always  be 
productive,  and  so  the  mountain  region  may  support  a  large 
population.  The  negroes  prefer  the  warmer  plains  ;  these 
lowlands  then  might  be  divided  into  large  estates,  worked 
by  black  labor  ;  while  the  highlands  and  mountain  districts 
would  be  specially  adapted  to  a  white  peasant  population. 

79 


GOLD   COAST. 

With  the  white  race  holding  the  sea-coast  and  the  foreign 
trade,  all  the  lines  of  interior  communication,  and  a  large 
population  in  the  mountain  districts,  they  would  be  com- 
plete masters  of  the  country,  and  need  fear  no  uprising  of 
the  blacks  ;  indeed,  this  is  not  likely  ever  to  take  place,  cer- 
tainly not,  if  they  are  ruled  with  firmness  and  justice. 
The  necessity  of  forbidding  the  importation  and  sale  to  the 
natives  of  guns,  powder,  and  intoxicants,  cannot  be  too 
strongly  insisted  upon.  These  are  all  destructive  in  their 
tendency,  and  opposed  to  the  true  interests  and  develop- 
ment of  the  country,  which  is  wholly  a  constructive  pro- 
cess. These  forces  belong  to  a  barbaric  age,  and  can  have 
no  place  in  that  era  of  progress  upon  which  the  world  has 
now  entered. 

The  construction  of  a  railway  from  Cape  Coast  to 
Coomasie  would  not  be  a  very  serious  undertaking,  and 
would  be  a  great  advantage  to  the  country,  although,  to 
reap  the  full  benefits  of  such  an  enterprise,  it  should  extend 
to  the  mountains  where  the  foreign  population  would 
naturally  want  to  settle  first.  During  the  Ashanti  war  a 
road  fifteen  feet  wide,  raised  in  the  middle  and  with  a  ditch 
on  either  side  to  carrry  off  the  water,  was  made  from  Cape 
Coast  to  Coomasie  in  three  months.  This  road  was  con- 
structed by  black  labor  under  the  direction  of  white  army 
officers,  and  the  difficulties  encountered  were  no  greater 
than  are  to  be  found  in  any  tropic  country.  If  such  a  road 
could  be  cut  through  the  forest  in  three  months,  what  is 
to  hinder  a  narrow-guage  railway  being  constructed  over 
the  same  line  in  one  year  ?  There  is  absolutely  no  physi- 
cal reason  whatever ;  all  it  needs  is  the  energy  and  deter- 
mination that  Sir  Garnet  Wolseley  put  into  his  military 
campaign.  Why  should  not  the  English  government  de- 
termine at  once  to  build  a  railway  from  Cape  Coast  to  the 
Kong  mountains,  with  a  north  and  south  branch  from 
Coomasie   through  the  hill  country  ?     In  three  years  the 

80 


GOLD   COAST. 

entire  work  could  be  finished.  Long  before  this  time  had 
expired,  the  English  people  seeing  the  determination  of  the 
government  to  open  up  the  country,  would  form  large  com- 
mercial companies  to  operate  sugar,  cotton,  tobacco  and 
coffee  estates,  and  to  open  gold  and  coal  mines,  and  before 
five  years  had  passed  there  would  be  such  a  scramble  for 
land,  and  business  opportunities,  that  the  whole  country 
would  be  completely  changed.  Every  element  of  success 
is  there ;  rich  soil,  abundant  heat  and  moisture,  and  near- 
ness to  all  the  great  markets  of  the  world.  Open  up  this 
land  by  constructing  a  system  of  railways  (and  four  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  of  track  are  sufficient),  maintain  a  wise 
and  liberal,  but  strong  government,  and  a  tide  of  immigra- 
tion will  at  once  set  in  that  will  convert  the  land  into  a 
garden.  "  But  to  open  up  a  new  country  like  this  will 
cost  some  precious  lives."  Certainly  it  will,  and  so  does 
every  great  enterprise.  It  cost  many  precious  lives  to  settle 
America ;  but  the  result  was  worth  the  cost.  It  costs 
thousands  of  lives  every  year  to  navigate  the  ocean  ;  but 
that  does  not  hinder  ships  from  sailing.  It  costs  lives  to 
dig  our  canals ;  to  run  our  railways  ;  to  mine  our  coal — 
but  these  works  must  be  carried  on  ;  and  so  Africa  must  be 
developed,  civilized,  Christianized,  and  made  to  do  her 
share  in  supporting  and  ministering  to  the  wants  of  the 
human  race,  even  if  some  drop  by  the  way.  This  great 
continent  has  been  given  to  us  to  conquer ;  we  must  go  up 
and  subdue  it ;  let  us  go  up  with  energy  and  determination, 
and  the  task  will  not  be  so  great  as  we  anticipate.  The 
conquest  of  Africa  may  be  made  far  easier  than  that  of 
North  America,  for  the  world  is  immensely  richer  than  it  was 
four  hundred  years  ago,  and  possesses  vast  agencies  and 
powers  that  were  then  unknown.  The  knowledge  and  ex- 
perience gained  during  the  settlement  of  the  two  Americas, 
India,    Australia,    New   Zealand    and    other    countries,    is 


81 


GOLD   COAST. 

available  in  the  development  of  Africa,  and  the  mistakes 
formerly  made  can  all  be  avoided. 

The  important  fact  should  not  be  over-looked  that  this 
is  the  last  continent  to  conquer.  All  the  rest  of  the  world 
is  now  under  control  of  some  powerful  government ;  only 
Africa  remains  to  be  appropriated,  and  the  work  of  divid- 
ing her  among  the  nations  is  nearly  completed.  Excepting 
the  plains  of  Central  Asia  most  of  the  valuable  land  is 
private  property,  and  can  only  be  had  by  purchase  ;  but  the 
broad,  rich  acres  of  Africa  yet  remain  open  to  all  who  will 
accept  them.  How  long  will  this  be  ?  How  long  before  a 
farm  in  Africa  will  cost  as  much  as  one  in  America  or 
India  ?  This  wonderful  West  Coast  is  nearer  to  the  great 
European  centres  of  population  than  California  or  Oregon, 
and  her  broad  acres  intrinsically  worth  more  money — it 
will  not  be  many  years  before  they  will  actually  be.  Who 
will  be  enriched  by  this  enormous  rise  in  value,  from  vir- 
tually nothing,  to  fifty  and  a  hundred  dollars  an  acre  ?  It 
will  be  those  who  at  once  take  possession  of  the  prize. 
Ten  years  ago  in  some  of  our  Western  States  men  took  up 
wild  land  from  the  government ;  to-day  these  are  valuable 
farms.  So  it  will  be  in  Africa,  and  that  too,  sooner  than 
many  suspect.  The  best  investment  for  capital  to-day  is  on 
the  West  Coast  of  Africa.  Great  aggregations  of  capital 
are  now  being  formed  to  control  the  industries  of  the  world. 
What  can  those  do  who  are  outside  the  great  "  trusts,"  or 
"  combinations  ?  "  In  what  great  enterprise  can  the  rapidly 
accumulating  wealth  of  the  world  be  safely  invested  and 
yet  bring  in  a  fair  return  of  profit  ?  In  the  rich  acres  of 
Sierra  Leone,  Liberia  and  the  Gold  Coast ;  in  railways,  and 
mining  operations.  Such  companies  can  make  greater 
gains  in  Africa  than  in  capitalizing  the  various  industries 
of  the  United  States.  The  profits  of  those  companies  that 
are  first  in  the  field  will  be  enormous,  for  it  will  not  be  dif- 
ficult for"  them  to  obtain  liberal  charters ;  and  large  sub- 

S2 


GOLD    COAST. 

sidies  in  the  shape  of  lands  and  exclusive  privileges  will  be 
more  easily  granted  now  when  their  value  is  not  so 
apparent. 

The  value  of  great  companies  to  begin  the  develop- 
ment of  the  resources  of  new  countries  has  already  been 
recognized  by  some  of  the  powers.  At  a  recent  sitting  of 
the  Superior  Council  of  the  Colonies  in  Paris  M.  Etienne 
"  advocated  the  granting  of  charters  to  powerful  commer- 
cial companies  on  the  condition  that  these  chartered  com- 
panies to  enter  into  an  undertaking  to  establish  planta- 
tions, cultivate  the  soil,  construct  roads  and  establish  towns." 
These  remarks  were  received  with  much  applause.  These 
great  companies,  employing  largely  native  labor,  will  pre- 
pare the  way  for  a  large  immigration  of  white  settlers. 
How  much  suffering  might  have  been  spared  the  early  set- 
tlers of  our  own  great  Republic,  if  the  way  had  been 
prepared  for  them  by  large  commercial  industrial  com- 
panies, such  as  are  possible  in  these  days  ?  Let  these 
open  up  the  land,  and  make  their  profits  ;  there  will  yet  be 
abundant  room  for  millions  of  Europe's  surplus  population. 
To  show  how  wide  an  extent  of  territory  there  is  to  occupy  ; 
suppose  a  company  was  granted  a  strip  of  land  one  mile 
wide,  extending  from  Cape  Coast  to  Coomasie,  a  direct  dis- 
tance of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  ;  there  could 
be  two  hundred  such  companies  ranged  side  by  side  along 
the  Gold  Coast,  and  yet  there  would  remain  beyond  them 
a  territory  equal  in  extent,  before  the  Kong  mountains 
were  reached.  These  great  companies,  employing  the 
native  labor,  could  cut  the  forests  and  clear  the  land,  and 
sell  it  to  the  immigrant  all  ready  to  work  ;  thus  saving  the 
new-comer  a  great  amount  of  hard  labor,  while  the  com- 
pany would  make  a  profit  both  on  timber  and  on  the  land. 
Two  fifty  million  dollar  companies,  if  managed  by  Ameri- 
can pluck  and  energy  ;  one  to  build  the  railways,  and  one 
to  clear  the  land,  form  coffee  and  sugar  estates,  and  build 

S3 


GOLD   COAST. 

mills  and  factories — could  transform  the  Gold  Coast  in  a 
few  years  into  a  civilized  and  fruitful  land. 

Two  or  three  such  companies  have  already  been  formed 
and  are  operating  in  different  parts  of  Africa,  although  there 
are  none  on  the  Gold  Coast ;  but  the  present  companies 
confine  their  efforts  entirely  to  commercial  operations. 
This  is  quite  necessary  and  right,  but  it  is  only  a  small 
portion  of  the  work  to  be  done  ;  goods  must  be  made  before 
they  can  be  sold  ;  produce  must  be  raised  before  it  can  be 
purchased  ;  commerce  must  come  last ;  production  first. 
The  first  and  most  important  matter  is  to  open  up  the 
country,  establish  a  stable  and  strong  government,  employ 
the  idle  labor,  and  after  this  will  come  commerce,  manu- 
factures, and  the  arts  ;  let  us  not  begin  at  the  wrong  end. 

Too  much  emphasis  cannot  be  laid  upon  the  neces- 
sity for  a  strong,  as  well  as  a  stable  government.  The 
Germans  have  succeeded  here  better  than  any  other  nation. 
The  Africans  are  savages,  and  will  respect  and  obey  only 
the  strong  arm  ;  sternness  governed  by  unflinching  justice, 
is  what  is  needed.  Any  government  that  treats  these 
people  as  intelligent  men  and  women,  will  be  a  failure. 
The  only  ethics  that  can  be  comprehended  is  "  This  do  and 
thou  shalt  live  "  ;  "  the  soul  that  sinneth  it  shall  die."  To 
be  more  lenient  with  them  than  this  is  to  blunder.  But  a 
strong  government  does  not  mean  one  that  builds  one  or 
two  fortresses,  and  establishes  as  many  more  military  posts 
at  strategic  points,  and  then  leaves  all  the  country  between 
to  take  care  of  itself  ;  this  is  the  defect  of  the  French 
Colonial  policy.  A  strong  government  is  one  that  GOVERNS. 
To  do  this  a  thorough  police  patrol  is  necessary  ;  a  patrol 
not  alone  of  a  few  isolated  settlements,  but  of  the  entire 
country.  This  however  is  only  possible  when  lines  of 
communication  are  opened,  and  so  it  is  necessary  to  build 
these  roads  in  advance  of  the  settlement  of  the  country  by 
immigrants.     The  old-fashioned  way  of  colonizing  was  for 

84 


GOLD   COAST. 

single  families  to  brave  the  dangers  and  hardships  of  the 
wilderness,  and  thus  slowly  and  painfull}'  overcome  the 
almost  insuperable  difficulties  of  their  lot ;  the  new  fashion 
is  for  governments  or  powerful  companies  to  prepare  the 
way,  and  when  all  is  ready,  to  invite  settlers  to  come  to  the 
feast.  This  is  not  only  the  sensible  way,  but  it  is  in 
accordance  with  the  spirit  of  the  times. 

To  be  sure  these  great  companies  expect  to  make 
money ;  and  why  not  ?  Are  they  not  entitled  to  pay  for 
their  services  ?  Is  it  not  better  to  pay  fifty  dollars  an  acre 
for  land  near  a  line  of  railway,  in  a  well  governed  country  ; 
than  five  dollars  an  acre  in  a  wilderness  filled  with  savages  ? 
And  then  too,  the  stock  of  such  companies  can  be  held  by 
multitudes  who  cannot  themselves  go  to  these  new  coun- 
tries, and  yet  who  would  like  to  take  some  part  in  the 
industrial  development  of  this  grand  continent.  Let  the 
industrial  conquest  of  the  country  be  planned  with  the 
same  care  and  ample  preparation  that  characterized  the 
expedition  of  Sir  Garnet  Wolseley,  and  the  results  will 
astonish  the  world.  Two  new  Indias ;  one  north  of  the 
Gulf  of  Guinea,  and  the  other  south  of  it  ;  may  soon  be 
formed,  and  both  of  them  richer  than  the  India  of  Asia. 
The  civilized  mind  is  as  yet  blind  to  the  riches  of  this 
land.  Accustomed  for  ages  to  look  upon  West  Africa  as  a 
hunting  ground  for  slaves,  they  have  come  in  these  days  to 
think  it  is  a  Great  Unknown  Land  for  expeditions  to  travel 
through  and  come  home  and  write  books  about  it.  The 
truth  is  it  is  the  richest  land  under  the  sun,  and  will  soon  be 
the  greatest  place  in  the  world  to  make  money.  Africa  pos- 
sesses a  vast  labor  supply  which  at  present  is  running 
almost  entirely  to  waste  ;  this  should  be  gathered  up  and 
carefully  set  to  work,  not  only  for  its  own  good,  but  for  the 
welfare  of  other  lands  and  nations.  The  whole  world  is 
fast  becoming  one  great  family  in  which  all  the  members 
must  do  their  part  for  the  good  of  the  rest.     The  black 

85 


GOLD    COAST. 

brother  of  this  family  has  run  wild  long  enough  ;  he  should 
now  be  set  to  work,  educated,  Christianized,  and  taught  to 
do  his  part  in  ministering  to  the  comfort  and  happiness  of 
the  race.  An  effort  was  once  made  to  make  him  useful,  by 
capturing  him  and  bringing  him  to  the  white  man's  land  ; 
this  was  wholly  wrong,  and  the  result  pernicious.  The 
true  way  is  for  the  white  man  to  go  to  his  land,  and  there 
set  him  to  work  in  a  way  that  will  be  for  the  good  of  both. 
To  do  this,  strong  common  sense  is  necessary,  all  senti- 
mentalism  should  be  set  aside,  and  the  errors  of  the  past 
avoided. 

In  the  English  occupation  of  America,  the  Indian  was 
treated  as  a  white  man  and  a  brother — a  consideration  a 
savage  cannot  understand — and  from  that  day  to  this  he 
has  murdered  the  whites  whenever  he  could  get  a  chance, 
and  between  whiles  the  government  supports  him — a  spec- 
tacle to  the  imbecility  of  sentimentalism.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  cruelties  practiced  upon  the  native  population  by 
the  Spanish  conquerors  are  equally  to  be  avoided.  The 
island  of  Java,  perhaps,  offers  the  best  example  of  what  on 
a  larger  scale  might  be  done,  not  only  on  the  Gold  Coast, 
but  everywhere  in  West  Africa. 

When  General  Van  den  Bosch  was  made  governor  of 
Java  in  1830,  he  found  the  Island  was  a  heavy  drain  on 
the  home  treasury,  and  he  at  once  set  to  work  to  see  if  he 
could  not  make  it  pay  expenses.  He  found  through  the 
country  districts  a  patriarchal  form  of  government,  and  this 
he  strengthened,  making  the  headmen  responsible  to  him 
and  giving  them  power  to  enforce  his  commands  upon  their 
people  ;  thus  it  was  to  their  interests  to  remain  on  friendly 
terms  with  him.  All  the  people  were  set  to  work  to  raising 
such  crops  as  were  marketable  in  Europe,  and  the  Dutch 
government  bought  it  all  at  a  fair  price.  The  work  to  be 
done  was  apportioned  to  each  village  according  to  the 
population,  and  if,  after  allowing  for  bad  seasons  and  other 

86 


GOLD    COAST. 

unavoidable  accidents,  a  village  failed  to  do  what  was 
assigned  to  it,  the  headman  was  punished.  In  this  way 
the  people  were  kept  busy  and  at  the  same  time  were  well 
paid  for  their  labors  ;  the  native  rulers  were  kept  loyal  to 
the  central  government,  and  the  Colony  made  a  fair  profit 
on  the  ever  increasing  shipment  of  produce. 

A  very  efficient  police  system  was  maintained  through- 
out the  Island  ;  by  this,  and  by  keeping  people  busy  with 
honest  industry,  crime  was  greatly  diminished.  Every 
man,  woman  and  child  was  registered,  and  each  village 
chief  made  responsible  for  the  conduct  of  his  subjects. 
Thus  an  offence  could  be  readily  traced,  and  the  chief,  and 
if  necessary  the  village,  punished.  This  plan  will  just  fit 
into  the  African  mind,  for  all  responsibility  follows  in  the 
line  of  family  and  village,  and  not  upon  individuality  as 
with  us. 

The  success  of  this  plan  was  so  great  that  from  being 
an  expense  to  Holland,  the  Island  now  yields  a  net  annual 
revenue  of  five  millions  of  dollars.  Crime  has  been  so 
reduced  that  the  sittings  of  the  local  courts  do  not  average 
thirty  days  in  a  year.  Formerly  there  was  much  poverty 
and  suffering  ;  now  nearly  every  man,  woman  and  child  is 
well  fed  and  clothed,  and  a  beggar  is  a  rare  sight.  The 
population  has  more  than  .trebled,  and  promises  the  same 
rate  of  increase  unless  interrupted  by  some  great  calamity. 
Such  is  the  result  in  a  colony  governed  by  good  common 
sense — what  a  contrast  to  our  own  experience  with  a  native 
population  ! 

What  has  been  done  in  Java,  not  only  can,  but  ought 
to  be  done  on  the  Gold  Coast.  The  Anglo-Saxon  has 
trifled  long  enough  with  the  sentimental  notion  that  a  black 
savage  should  be  allowed  to  do  as  he  pleases.  He  should 
be  set  to  work,  and  kept  at  it.  Work  was  ordained  of  God 
to  be  the  normal  condition  of  man,  and  there  is  no  good 
reason  why  the  negro  should  not  be  subject  to  this  law,  and 

87 


GOLD   COAST. 

indeed  to  all  the  laws  of  God.  Is  he  any  better  than  the 
millions  of  the  white  race  who  toil  for  a  living?  Has  his 
idling  around  in  the  forest  done  him,  or  the  world,  any 
good  ?  This  world  is  ordained  of  God  to  be  possessed  by 
the  workers,  and  the  negro's  preservation  as  a  race  depends 
upon  his  being  set  to  work.  The  Redman  of  our  country- 
is  doomed,  because  he  will  not  work.  The  exception 
proves  the  rule,  for  the  few  who  have  been  Christianized 
and  have  settled  down  to  a  life  of  honest  labor,  will  survive  ; 
at  least  for  a  while.  The  black  race  is  too  valuable  a  one 
to  be  lost,  and  the  time  has  now  come  when  it  must  be  set 
to  work  as  the  Javanese  were. 

This  does  not  mean  slavery,  but  it  does  mean  compul- 
sion ;  no  one  need  suppose  a  wild  savage,  or  a  tame  one 
either,  is  going  to  work  steadily  even-  day  unless  he  has  to 
— but  neither  will  men  refrain  from  crime  unless  they  feel 
they  must.  The  plan  of  the  Dutch  Governor  may  be  the 
best  that  can  be  devised  ;  certainly  it  produced  most  desir- 
able results  in  Java  ;  or  it  may  be  somewhat  modified  to 
adapt  it  to  varying  conditions.  If  a  large  section  of  the 
country  is  taken  up  by  a  private  company,  the  resident 
population  might  be  placed  under  its  control,  subject  to 
the  oversight  of  the  central  government.  If  it  were  desir- 
able to  cultivate  the  country  in  large  estates,  the  negroes 
might  be  gathered  in  one  large,  extended  village  near  the 
central  buildings,  and  work  in  the  mill,  or  in  the  fields,  as 
they  might  be  directed,  thus  bringing  them  close  to  their 
work  and  making  oversight  an  easier  matter.  Eight  hours' 
work  a  day  for  their  employers  would  leave  time  enough 
for  themselves,  and  there  would  be  nothing  to  prevent  their 
having  as  happy  and  comfortable  homes  as  an)-  laboring 
people  ; — far  better  indeed  than  multitudes  of  toilers  in  our 
own  home  lands.  This  labor  should  be  paid  for  in  cash  at 
a  fair  rate,  the  only  compulsion  being  that  labor  should  be 
performed.     Only  men   should  be   compelled  to  work,  al- 

88 


GOLD    COAST. 

though  women  should  be  encouraged  to  do  so  too,  if  they 
will,  by  the  offer  of  as  good  wages  as  are  given  to  men,  and 
the  lighter  tasks  should  be  reserved  for  them. 

The  lot  of  a  people  under  these  conditions  would  be 
far  superior  to  what  it  is  now  among  the  wild  tribes,  or 
even  what  it  is  among  our  own  Indians  after  centuries  of 
an  opposite  course  of  treatment.  Even  in  India,  which  in 
the  main  is  well  governed,  the  omission  to  compel  men  to 
work  instead  of  idling  away  a  good  share  of  their  time,  has 
produced  very  unhappy  results.  Those  who  have  traveled 
both  in  India  and  Java  have  seen  that  the  contrast  in  the 
condition  of  the  two  countries  is  something  enormous.  In 
Java  there  is  hardly  an  indication  of  poverty,  and  the  public 
works  are  in  excellent  shape  ;  while  in  India  the  reverse  is 
the  case.  Want  and  degradation  are  visible  everywhere, 
and  the  traveler  has  daily  and  hourly  appeals  for  charity. 
By  the  plan  we  propose  there  need  not  be  a  pauper  in  the 
land  ;  and  there  would  not  be.  Idleness  is  a  crime  and 
should  be  treated  as  such  ;  and  no  good  government  will 
allow  crime  to  go  unpunished.  Not  only  the  law  of  God, 
but  the  advancing  civilization  of  the  age,  requires  man  to 
work.  Hitherto  the  wild  negro  has  roamed  through  the 
forest,  or  idled  the  golden  hours  away  under  the  leafy  shade, 
in  open  violation  of  this  requirement ;  in  the  meanwhile  the 
workers  have  appropriated  one  country  after  another,  driv- 
ing the  native  inhabitants  to  the  wall  unless  they  also 
become  workers ;  and  now  Africa's  time  has  come. 

The  worker  must  win.  It  is  so  in  our  own  land  ;  the 
idle  and  the  inefficient,  even  when  possessed  of  money,  are- 
soon  left  out  of  sight ;  it  is  the  worker  who  gains  the  prize, 
and  only  the  worker  can  hold  it  even  when  once  obtained. 
Some  propose  Christianity,  and  would  have  us  suppose  it 
is  a  panacea  for  all  ills ;  but  they  quite  mistake  the  nature 
and  scope  of  this  wonderful  power.  It  can  produce  its 
beneficient  results  only  under  favorable  conditions  ;  there 


GOLD   COAST. 

must  be  good  government,  and  steady  industrious  habits  in 
order  that  religion  should  flourish.  These  conditions  are 
within  our  power,  and  God  never  does  for  us  what  we  can 
do  for  ourselves.  Let  us  apply  these  conditions  to  Africa, 
and  then  the  Gospel  will  win  its  way  among  her  dark  sons 
and  daughters,  and  the  Prince  of  Peace  will  indeed  have 
risen  upon  the  land  with  healing  in  His  wings. 

In  Christian  lands  we  come  and  go  somewhat  at  will, 
and  call  it  freedom  ;  but  our  very  civilization  compels  us  to 
work.  Our  freedom  of  movement,  even-thing  we  have,  our 
very  existence,  demands  that  we  shall  labor.  The  time  has 
come  when  this  yoke,  which  we  ourselves  wear,  must  be 
laid  upon  the  dusky  sons  of  Africa.  They  are  no  better 
than  we  are  ;  let  them  be  set  to  work.  We  are  not  better 
than  they,  that  we  should  retain  the  rewards  of  the  diligent 
all  to  ourselves.  Let  them  partake  of  the  blessings  we 
enjoy,  those  blessings  that  flow  from  civilization  and  Chris- 
tianity ;  the  channel  through  which  these  come  to  us,  is  pa- 
tient, persevering  industry.  Our  advanced  civilization,  that 
compels  us  to  "  pay  '  for  all  we  enjoy,  lays  upon  us  the 
necessity  to  labor,  and  so  it  will  the  African  when  his 
country  has  advanced  to  where  ours  is  now  ;  in  the  mean- 
while let  the  powers  that  rule  over  him  set  him  to  work  and 
teach  him  to  be  first  useful,  and  then  self-reliant,  nothing 
else  will  preserve  his  race  from  extinction  ;  nothing  else 
will  make  the  preaching  of  the  Gospel  effective  to  his 
salvation.  Christianity  makes  no  progress  among  the 
idle  and  the  lazy.  Christianity  is  an  active,  vital,  moving 
power ;  it  impels  its  subject  forward  in  the  path  of  duty  ; 
its  motto  is  onward,  upward  ;  it  is  a  life,  a  growth,  ever 
developing,  even  expanding ;  but  the  idle  and  lazy  do  not 
heed  its  commands,  and  it  soon  dies  out  within  them. 
This  has  ever  been  the  experience  of  missionary  workers  ; 
keep  your  people  employed  ;  give  them  plenty  of  hard  work 
to  do,  and  they  are  not  likely  to  fall.     Let  the  colonial 

90 


GOLD    COAST. 

governments  there,  and  the  great  companies  that  may  rule 
over  the  land,  gather  the  people  together  and  set  them  to 
work  ;  not  making  their  tasks  too  difficult  ;  paying  them 
fair  wages ;  keeping  intoxicants  from  them,  and  encourag- 
ing them  to  accept  the  Protestant  religion  ;  giving  them 
the  benefit  of  a  common  school  education,  and  ruling  them 
with  a  firm  hand,  and  the  result  will  be  large  profits  to  the 
companies,  and  the  land  will  become  a  garden — the  delight- 
ful home  of  millions  of  happy  people. 

This  is  no  fancy  day-dream,  the  result  of  a  disordered  im- 
agination ;  it  has  been  largely  realized  in  Java ;  it  can  be  fully 
realized  in  West  Africa.  Let  the  reader  spend  the  greater 
part  of  fifteen  years  in  this  wondrous  land,  as  the  writer  has 
done,  and  he  will  see  this,  and  far  more,  to  be  among  the  pos- 
sibilities. If  the  civilized  world  realized  the  boundless  re- 
sources of  this  country,  ships  enough  could  not  be  spared  from 
the  world's  commerce  to  carry  the  crowds  who  would  wish 
to  go  there. 

We  left  our  friends  sitting  on  the  deck  of  the  Kisanga 
enjoying  their  afternoon  tea,  and  looking  shoreward  at  the 
surf  as  it  broke  in  from  upon  the  rocks  at  the  foot  of  the 
castle  walls.  They  did  not  go  ashore,  for  the  steamer  was 
going-  to  remain  but  a  short  time.  A  small  fleet  of  canoes 
soon  came  alongside,  from  one  of  which  the  steward  pur- 
chased some  pineapples.  This  lead  to  a  discussion  about 
this  fruit.  It  is  not  a  native  of  Africa,  but  was  taken 
thither  by  the  early  settlers,  and  is  now  common  along  the 
coast,  and  in  many  places  has  penetrated  some  distance  into 
the  interior.  It  grows  on  a  long  stalk  like  a  cabbage,  and 
produces  one  fruit  a  year.  Like  the  banana,  a  stalk  bears 
fruit  but  once,  and  the  plant  is  continued  by  a  new  shoot 
that  comes  up  from  the  ground  beside  the  parent  stalk,  and 
bears  fruit  the  following  year.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe,  it  is 
best  to  cut  away  the  old  stalk  and  let  the  new  one  have  all 


9f 


GOLD    COAST. 

the  strength  of  the  roots.  It  will  grow  in  thin  sandy  soil, 
but  of  course,  does  better  in  alluvial  and  other  deep  soils. 

"  I  see,"  said  Captain  Thompson,  addressing  Mr.  King, 
"  that  whole  cargoes  of  pineapples  are  sent  from  the  West 
Indies  to  the  Atlantic  seaports  ;  do  you  think  they  could  be 
sent  from  here  to  England  ?  " 

"  I  cannot  say,"  replied  Mr.  King,  whether  they  could 
be  or  not.  The  pineapple  is  easily  bruised,  and  does  not 
long  save  when  once  it  is  cut  from  the  stalk  ;  but  it  may 
be  that  a  room  fitted  up  with  cold  storage  might  preserve 
them.  Of  course,  it  would  not  do  to  freeze  them,  but  only 
to  cool  the  air  so  as  to  retard  the  ripening,  and  then  it 
might  be  they  could  be  safely  landed  in  England.  But  if 
they  could  not  be  shipped,  they  could  at  least  be  preserved 
here  and  sent  home  in  that  state,  and  would  then  find  a 
large  and  ready  sale." 

"  Do  you  think  the  raising  of  pineapples  might  become 
a  profitable  industry?"  inquired  Mr.  Alexander. 

"  I  do  not  see  why  it  should  not,"  answered  Mr.  King, 
u  for  it  is  profitable  in  other  countries,  and  is  as  easily 
raised  as  corn.  Planted  four  feet  apart  each  way,  which 
would  give  abundant  room  for  mule  cultivation,  there  would 
be  two  thousand,  seven  hundred  plants  to  an  acre  ;  at  three 
cents  each  for  the  fruit  it  would  amount  to  eighty-one  dol- 
lars a  year,  besides  the  fibre.  You  know  the  negroes  make 
their  thread  from  the  fibre  of  the  leaves,  and  that  it  is  even 
stronger  than  our  own  linen  thread.  The  fibre  would 
amount  to  several  hundred  pounds  per  acre,  and  should  at 
least  be  as  valuable  as  flax,  perhaps  more  so.  As  a  planta- 
tion will  last  several  years,  I  have  no  doubt  the  fibre  would 
pay  all  the  expenses  of  cultivation,  and  leave  the  receipts 
from  the  fruit  a  profit." 

The  Captain  inquired  how  the  fibre  could  be  extracted. 

"  The  natives,"  continued  Mr.  King,  "  remove  the 
pulp  by  scraping  the  leaves  with  a  knife  ;  the  fibre  is  then 

92 


GOLD    COAST. 

laid  in  the  sun  to  dry,  and  is  twisted  into  thread  and  twine 
by  rubbing  it  over  the  thigh.  A  machine  could  easily  be 
made  to  macerate  the  leaf  and  wash  away  the  pulp,  and 
then  dry  the  fibre  in  a  hot  room,  or  by  running  it  over 
cylinders  heated  by  steam.  The  fibre,  as  the  negroes  pre- 
pare it,  is  almost  white,  very  soft  and  silky,  and  might  be 
used  with  silk  in  the  manufacture  of  many  fabrics.  As  the 
staple  is  from  two  to  three  feet  long,  it  has  a  great  advan- 
tage in  weaving,  over  cotton,  which  is  only  two  or  three 
inches  in  length." 

"  You  spoke,"  said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  of  preserving 
pineapples ;  are  there  any  other  fruits  that  could  be  pre- 
served here  and  then  sent  to  our  home  markets?" 

"  Yes,"  answered  Mr.  King,  "  mango  jelly  and  sauce 
could  be  made  in  almost  unlimited  quantity,  and  would  find 
a  ready  sale  in  every  northern  town.  At  the  agricultural 
fair  in  Gaboon,  to  which  I  referred  the  other  day,  the  Sisters 
of  the  Catholic  mission  exhibited  jellies  made  from  this 
fruit,  as  beautiful  in  appearance,  and  delicious  in  taste  as 
anything  I  ever  came  across  in  the  way  of  preserves.  In 
addition  to  jelly,  the  mango,  before  it  is  fully  ripe,  makes  a 
sauce  that  is  superior  to  apple-sauce,  and  that  keeps  per- 
fectly, for  I  have  taken  it  from  Gaboon  to  America,  and 
found  the  journey  did  not  injure  it ;  but  it  is  better  to  put 
it  in  glass  than  in  tin.  Guava  jelly  is  another  article  that 
could  be  made  in  large  quantities.  The  guava  is  like  the 
lime,  it  will  grow  well,  and  bear  abundantly  in  poor  soil, 
so  that  wherever  there  is  any  light  ground  it  could  be 
profitably  occupied  by  guava  trees.  Thousands  of  people 
could  find  employment  in  raising  and  preserving  pineapples, 
mangos  and  guavas,  and  there  would  be  an  abundant 
market  for  all  they  could  produce." 

The  conversation  was  interrupted  by  the  dinner-bell,  a 
call  that  was  always  welcome,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the 


93 


GOLD   COAST. 

table  was  surrounded  by  a  double  row  of  strong,  healthy 
men,  discussing  the  merits  of  hot  pepper  soup. 

At  eight  P.  M.  when  the  watch  was  changed,  the 
Captain  put  the  ship  at  half-speed,  and  before  bedtime  the 
lights  of  Cape  Coast  were  far  astern.  The  distance  to 
Accra  is  seven  hours  steaming  at  full-speed,  but  sailors 
prefer  to  start  at  such  a  time  that  half-speed  will  bring 
them  a  little  short  of  their  destination  by  dawn,  and  they 
can  make  port  at  full-speed  by  the  light  of  the  morning  sun. 
During  the  night  the  Kisanga  passed  Anamaboe,  Winnebah 
and  Barracoe,  and  by  the  time  our  friends  had  taken  their 
coffee,  she  anchored  off  Accra,  the  second  most  important 
settlement  of  the  English  on  the  Gold  Coast.  Looking 
ashore  from  the  steamer's  deck  Accra  was  seen  nestling 
comfortably  in  the  lap  of  palm-clad  hills.  Along  the  edge 
of  the  bluff  which  forms  the  sea-shore  was  an  irregular  line 
of  white-washed  stone  houses,  with  the  governor's  house  far 
away  to  the  left.  The  surf,  as  at  Cape  Coast,  was  heavy, 
and  our  friends  did  not  care  to  go  ashore.  There  were  a 
few  packages  to  send  ashore,  and  some  dispatches,  and  when 
this  was  accomplished  the  Kisanga  resumed  her  course, 
having  taken  some  fifty  deck  passengers  who  were  going 
south  to  seek  their  fortune. 


94 


Chapter  V 


NIGER  DELTA  AND  THE  SOUDAN 


ROM  Accra  on  the  Gold  Coast,  to  Bonny  in  the 
Niger  delta,  is  two  days  steaming.  There  are 
many  places  of  interest  along-  the  way,  but  it  so 
happened  that  the  Kisanga  did  not  call  at  any  of 
them.  The  first  of  these  is  the  Volta  river,  six  hours 
steaming  beyond  Accra.  This  stream,  which  is  a  mile  and 
a  half  wide  at  its  mouth,  rises  in  the  Kong  mountains,  and 
is  in  many  respects  such  a  river  as  our  own  Hudson.  Near 
the  sea  the  banks  are  lined  with  the  usual  fringe  of  man- 
groves common  to  all  tropical  rivers.  Above  the  mangroves 
the  country  becomes  more  open,  and  the  stately  cotton 
trees,  bamboos,  and  oil-palms  diversify  the  landscape. 
Back  from  the  river  is  an  open  country  interspersed  with 
hills,  which  gradually  form  ranges  as  they  approach  the 
Kong  mountains.  These  hills  are  wooded  with  tall,  open 
forests,  making  travelling  pleasant  and  agreeable ;  the 
traveler  being  protected  from  the  sun,  while  at  the  same 
time  free  from  the  annoyances  of  the  jungle.  This  delight- 
ful land  is  wondrously  diversified  by  open  plains,  wooded 
hills,  and  cool  and  shady  dells  through  which  flow  streams 
of  crystal  water  hastening  away  to  join  the  Volta  which 
forms   an   open   pathway  from  the  sea.     Throughout  this 

95 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE  SOUDAN. 

district  there  is  a  sufficient  population  to  work  coffee,  sugar, 
cotton  and  tobacco  estates,  and  the  hills  would  make  de- 
lightful homes  for  happy  families  from  the  dark  and 
cheerless  North.  At  the  present  time  there  is  considerable 
game  in  the  lower  course  of  the  river,  crocodiles,  hippopot- 
ami, divers,  cranes,  pelicans,  storks,  whydahs,  ibis,  paddy- 
birds,  and  many  others.  Any  one  fond  of  sporting  could 
here  find  shooting  to  his  heart's  content. 

The  Volta  separates  the  Gold  Coast  from  what  is 
known  as  the  Slave  Coast,  of  which  Whydah  is  one 
of  the  principal  ports.  The  French  have  seized  the  coast 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Whydah,  and  at  the  present  time 
are  at  war  with  the  king  of  Dehomy,  but  as  yet  have  not 
obtained  much  advantage  in  the  contest. 

Beyond  Whydah  is  the  English  settlement  of  Lagos, 
on  an  island  of  the  same  name  in  a  large  lagoon  which 
connects  by  means  of  tide-water  creeks  with  the  Niger. 
Lagos  is  a  large  shipping  port,  and  will  compare  favorably 
with  other  tropical  cities  ;  its  wharves,  piers,  warehouses, 
and  public  buildings  presenting  a  fine  appearance  from  the 
water.  The  city  is  well  drained,  has  good  local  police  and 
a  systematic  government.  Palm  oil  and  kernels  are  the 
great  staples  of  export,  particularly  the  latter,  it  being 
nothing  unusual  for  a  single  house  to  load  a  ship  with 
kernels,  and  whenever  the  steamers  cannot  fill  up  with 
cargo,  they  know  if  they  go  to  Lagos  all  their  spare  room 
will  soon  be  taken  for  kernels.  Back  of  Lagos  is  the 
country  of  Yoruba,  which  is  represented  as  being  healthy, 
and  in  every  way  a  desirable  land.  The  capital  of  Yoruba 
is  called  Abeokuta,  a  walled  city  with  a  population  of  fifty 
thousand.  It  is  surprising  that  England  has  not  extended 
her  rule  over  this  kingdom,  for  if  it  were  formed  into  a 
British  colony  it  might  in  a  few  years  become  a  civilized 
land.  Yoruba  extends  as  far  East  as  the  Niger,  beyond 
which  is  the  kingdom  of  Nufi.     On  Sabbath  morning  the 

96 


NIGER   DELTA    AND   THE   SOUDAN. 

Kisanga  steamed  through  the  break  in  the  sandy  key  which 
marks  the  outlet  of  the  Bonny  river,  and  by  i  P.  m.  she 
anchored  abreast  of  the  English  factories. 

The  Bonny  river  is  one  of  the  outlets  of  the  Niger,  there 
being  five  others,  called  Akassa,  Brass,  Benin,  Opobo  and 
New  Calabar.  This  vast  delta  of  the  Niger  is  one  great 
swamp  composed  of  low  islands,  covered  with  a  dense 
growth  of  mangrove  and  other  water  loving  trees,  and  wide 
reaches  of  open  water  with  deep  crooked  channels  winding 
among  the  mud-banks.  Like  all  similar  tracts  of  alluvial 
land,  the  scenery  is  monotonous  and  dreary,  but  the  gentle- 
men in  the  factories  scarcely  notice  this,  they  are  kept  so 
busy  buying  palm  oil  and  kernels. 

Sunday  being  a  "  day  off  "  when  no  steamer  is  in  port 
to  be  loaded,  the  Kisanga  had  hardly  anchored  and  swung 
to  the  tide,  before  boats  pushed  off  from  shore  and  the 
agents  came  to  hear  the  news  and  have  a  friendly  chat.  In 
former  years  the  trading  was  all  done  on  "  hulks  ".  Old 
vessels  that  could  be  bought  cheap  were  sailed  out  in  the 
summer-time  and  on  their  arrival  in  Bonny  were  stripped  of 
masts,  sails  and  spars,  and  roofed  over  with  a  thatch  made 
of  palm  leaves.  These  made  cool,  comfortable  homes,  and 
the  traders  felt  secure  from  the  attacks  of  natives,  for  in 
approaching  the  hulk  they  would  be  greatly  exposed  in 
their  open  canoes  on  the  water.  Twenty  years  ago  trade 
was  thus  carried  on  in  all  the  African  rivers,  but  it  has 
long  since  outgrown  such  narrow  quarters  and  now  the 
great  commercial  establishments  are  on  shore,  some  of  them 
so  large  as  to  cover  several  acres  of  ground. 

The  foreign  settlement  at  Bonny  is  built  on  an  island 
twenty  miles  in  from  the  sea.  Like  all  the  land  in  this 
great  delta  it  is  not  more  than  a  foot  or  two  above  high 
water  mark,  but  by  covering  it  with  a  good  coating  of 
gravel  has  become  sufficiently  firm  and  solid  for  building 
purposes.     Long  piers  have  been  run  out  to  deep  water  so 

vii  97 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

that  surf-boats,  and  even  small  steamers  can  come  along- 
side. These  trading  factories  are  busy  places,  and  a  large 
force  of  men  are  employed.  Contrary  to  what  might  be 
supposed,  the  Niger  delta,  notwithstanding  its  low  marshy 
soil,  is  not  particularly  unhealthy  ;  at  the  same  time  it 
cannot  be  looked  upon  as  a  desirable  place  of  residence. 

At  the  present  time  trade  is  carried  on  in  West  Africa 
by  wealthy  firms  in  Liverpool,  Glasgow,  Bristol  and  Ham- 
burg. The  members  of  these  firms  seldom  visit  the  Coast, 
and  in  some  cases  never  do,  but  they  send  out  "  General 
Agents "  to  represent  their  interests,  to  each  of  whom  a 
considerable  territory  is  given  as  his  field  of  operations. 
This  general  agent,  upon  carefully  looking  over  the  ground, 
establishes  factories  at  favorable  points  and  places  them  in 
charge  of  agents  who  are  responsible  to  him,  as  he  himself 
is  to  the  firm.  These  factor}-  agents  usually  have  one  or 
more  white  assistants  under  them,  and  a  force  of  blacks  of 
from  twenty  to  one  hundred  men,  according  to  the  amount 
of  work  there  is  to  be  done.  The  general  agent  establishes 
a  central  depot  where  goods  are  received  and  produce 
shipped,  and  where  all  the  accounts  of  the  Agency  are  kept. 
Each  agent  makes  out  an  "  indent,"  or  list  of  the  goods  he 
wants,  and  also  of  the  "  stores  "  or  other  supplies  he  needs. 
These  indents,  if  the}'  are  approved  by  the  general  agent, 
are  sent  to  the  firm,  who  forward  the  goods  to  the  central 
station,  from  which  they  are  distributed  to  the  factories  by 
small  steamers  or  sailing  vessels.  In  like  manner  the  pro- 
duce is  sent  to  the  central  depot,  and  each  agent  credited 
with  what  he  sends.  In  cases  of  misunderstanding  the 
agents  cannot  appeal  to  the  firm,  being  entirely  under  the 
control  of  the  general  agent. 

When  an  agent  receives  his  goods  they  are  carefully 
piled  away  in  a  store-house  and  a  part  of  them  unpacked 
and  placed  on  exhibition  in  the  shop.  It  is  seldom,  how- 
ever, that  many  of  the  goods  can  be   directly  exchanged 

9S 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE    SOUDAN. 

with  the  natives,  that  being  entirely  too  straightforward  to 
suit  the  negro  mind.     For  some  unaccountable  reason  the 
African  will  not  bestir  himself  to  collect  the  forest  products 
except  trade-goods  be  first  brought  to  his  town.     When  a 
large  canoe  laden  with  goods  reaches  a  village,  all  is  excite- 
ment over  the  auspicious   event ;    guns  are   fired,  drums 
beaten,  and  the  inhabitants  give  themselves  up  to  no  end 
of  rejoicing,  especially  if  a  barrel  of  rum  be  divided  among 
them.     Each  chooses  the  articles  he  prefers,  at  least  a  por- 
tion of  which  is  paid  over  to  him  at  once.     The  next  day 
there  is  a  great  time  getting  ready  to  go  to  the  forest,  and 
soon  the  village  is  quite  deserted  ;    by  night  they    come 
home  tired  and  cross,  and  thereafter  enthusiasm  dies  out 
rapidly.     In  the  meantime,  the  native  trader  who  brought 
the  goods  must  give  out  one  article  after  another  to  keep 
the  people  in  good  humor,  and  the  result  is  that  he  never 
gets  all  the  produce  that  is  his  due,  and  must  finally  return 
to  his  master  with  an  unfavorable  report,  of  course  roundly 
abusing  the  villagers  for  their  knavery.     There  are  very 
few  communities  where  a  cash  business  can  be  done,  and 
this  system  of  trust,  with  all  its  losses  and  evils,  is  neces- 
sary in  order  to  get  the  produce  at  all.     Under  these  dis- 
couraging circumstances  it  is  a  wonder  that  trade  can  be 
made  to  pay,  and  the  fact  that  it  does  argues  well  for  the 
energy  of  the  traders  and  their  care  in  all  matters  of  detail. 
What  may  yet  be  made  of   the  African  race    under 
favorable  circumstances,  it  is  hard  to  say,  but  one  thing  is 
certain,  and  that  is  that  savages  will  not  labor  steadily  at 
any  useful  occupation  except  under  some  sort  of  compul- 
sion.    Unfortunately  the  educated  and  Christianized  negro 
will  not,  as  a  rule,  work  either,  and  certainly  not,  if  he  can 
help  it,  at  any  kind  of  manual  labor.     There  is  no  escaping 
the  conclusion  that  these    people  must    be    brought    into 
industrious  ways  before  they  are  fitted  to  become  citizens 
and  to  be  benefitted  by  complete  liberty. 

99 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

At  Bonny  the  Kisanga  began  to  unload  her  cargo  in 
good  earnest.  A  heavy  spar  was  rigged  to  each  mast  in 
such  a  way  that  the  upper  end  was  directly  over  the  hatch- 
way. A  steam  "  winch  "  turning  an  iron  drum,  wound 
around  it  a  heavy  chain  which  ran  along  the  under  side  of 
the  spar,  over  a  wheel  at  its  end,  and  so  hung  down  the 
hatchway  into  the  hold.  The  ship's  Kru-boys  were  divided 
into  two  gangs,  one  of  which  worked  the  forward  hatch, 
and  the  other  the  after  hatch.  These  nimble  fellows  clam- 
bered over  the  piles  of  bales  and  boxes  in  the  dark  hold, 
selecting  such  as  were  marked  for  Bonny,  and  fastening 
them  to  the  chain  which  drew  them  forth  and  deposited 
them  on  deck.  The  rattle  of  the  steam  winches  and  chains, 
the  shout  of  the  workmen,  who  always  do  best  when  mak- 
ing a  noise,  with  all  the  bustle  and  excitement  of  working 
cargo,  make  an  animated  scene,  and  one  that  is  highly 
entertaining  to  new-comers,  but  tiresome  enough  to  old 
coasters,  to  whom  such  scenes  are  no  novelty.  The  spars 
were  rigged,  and  preparations  made  during  the  afternoon, 
but  the  hatches  were  not  taken  off  until  Monday  morning. 

After  the  agents  had  finished  their  chat  they  returned 
to  shore,  and  our  friends  went  with  them,  partly  for  a 
change,  and  partly  to  send  home  a  cablegram  announcing 
their  safe  arrival.  The  West  African  Submarine  Cable 
Company  have  a  line  of  cable  running  the  entire  length  of 
the  West  African  Coast,  and  connecting  all  the  principal 
ports  with  each  other  and  with  Europe  ;  the  business  is 
increasing  every  year,  and  land  lines  will  doubtless  soon  be 
put  up  to  important  points.  It  may,  perhaps,  not  be  known 
to  all  readers  of  this  volume  that  a  telegram  may  be  sent 
from  any  town  in  the  United  States  to  any  of  the  large 
ports  in  Western  Africa ;  the  time  occupied  in  transit  is 
from  three  to  four  hours,  and  the  cost  from  two  to  three 
dollars  a  word,  with  a  discount  of  seventy-five  per  cent,  on 
dispatches  for  the  press. 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

Bright  and  early  on  Monday  morning  a  small  fleet  of 
surf-boats  and  lighters  gathered  beneath  the  open  gang- 
ways of  the  ship  to  receive  the  cargo  for  the  factories,  and 
the  din  and  activity  on  deck  gave  promise  of  a  busy  and 
noisy  day.  After  breakfast  our  friends  gladly  accepted  the 
invitation  of  Mr.  Stirley  to  spend  the  day  at  his  factory, 
and  it  was  not  very  long  before  they  were  seated  in  com- 
fortable chairs  on  the  veranda  of  the  second-story  of  his 
house.  Mr.  Stirley  is  a  thorough  disciplinarian,  systematic 
in  all  he  does,  and  as  may  easily  be  guessed,  a  successful 
trader.  His  establishment  is  at  the  upper  end  of  the  set- 
tlement, near  the  corner  of  the  island,  and  is  advantageously 
located.  Mr.  Stirley  has  been  many  years  on  the  Coast, 
and  his  health  is  excellent.  He  informed  our  friends  that 
trade  had  about  attained  its  fullest  development  along  the 
present  lines,  and  that  it  could  scarcely  be  expected  to 
increase  much  in  value  until  the  soil  was  cultivated  in  a 
systematic  way. 

"  At  present,"  said  he,  "  it  is  just  the  same  as  it  is 
down  the  Coast,  where  you  gentlemen  live,  we  purchase 
only  the  natural  products  of  the  forest,  palm  oil  and  kernels. 
All  our  supplies  come  from  a  strip  of  country  not  over  one 
hundred  miles  wide,  for  the  oil-palm  does  not  grow  in  quan- 
tities farther  in  the  interior.  Within  this  hundred-mile 
strip  it  is  fair  to  say  that  three-fourths  of  the  area  does  not 
produce  this  palm,  as  there  is  either  open  water,  or  else  the 
ground  is  occupied  by  mangroves  and  other  trees ;  even 
where  the  oil-palm  does  grow  there  are  no  continuous 
forests  of  it,  but  trees  singly  and  in  groups  are  found  grow- 
ing in  the  jungle.  Nor  are  all  the  nuts  gathered  that 
grow,  for  the  improvident  people  allow  a  large  percentage 
to  go  to  waste.  If  our  people  were  only  industrious,  work- 
ing regularly  every  day  under  intelligent  direction,  and 
especially  if  they  would  cultivate  the  soil,  we  might  load 
ten  steamers  where  now  we  load  one." 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

"  That  is  just  the  way  it  is  in  Ogowe,"  said  Mr.  Schiff, 
"  I  have  lived  there  several  years,  and  it  seems  a  pity  to 
see  so  much  good  labor  go  to  waste,  especially  when  the 
men  themselves  would  be  so  much  benefitted  by  a  life  of 
industry  and  thrift.  Now  look  at  those  fellows  there  in 
that  canoe ;  ever}'  one  of  them  are  slaves  except  the  one  in 
the  middle,  and  he  might  as  well  be  for  he  is  the  worst  one 
in  the  lot.  How  much  better  for  them  if  they  worked  for 
some  intelligent  white  man  at  fair  wages,  and  had  each  of 
them  a  little  cottage  and  garden  like  our  workingmen  at 
home,  and  go  to  church  decently  dressed  every  Sunday  ? 
As  they  are  now,  they  are  idle,  worthless  vagabonds,  no 
good  to  themselves  nor  any  one  else,  and  will  always  remain 
so,  too,  until  they  are  set  to  work.'1 

"  Come  now,  Schiff,  don't  get  excited,"  said  Mr. 
Sinclair. 

"  Well,  I  can't  help  it,"  retorted  Mr.  Schiff,  "  it  makes 
my  bile  run  into  my  blood  to  see  such  a  lot  of  lazy  scala- 
wags around  when  they  have  the  finest  land  there  is  in  the 
world,  and  if  they  would  work  they  might  make  every  foot 
of  it  produce  like  a  garden." 

"  I  think,"  said  Mr.  King,  "  that  we  will  all  agree 
with  you  in  the  main,  and  for  my  Own  part,  I  think  the 
time  will  soon  come  when  your  wish  will  be  largely 
realized." 

Mr.  Stirley  changed  the  subject  of  the  conversation  by 
calling  attention  to  the  extended  view  to  be  enjoyed  from 
where  they  sat.  Far  as  the  eye  could  reach  it  rested  upon 
low  islands  covered  with  mangroves  and  bamboo  jungle, 
sometimes  separated  by  narrow  creeks,  and  sometimes  by 
wider  reaches  of  water.  "  These  islands,"  said  he,  "  would 
make  the  best  of  rice  fields,  and  those  who  come  after  us 
are  destined  to  make  greater  fortunes  here  in  raising  this 
grain,  than  we  now  make  from  palm  oil  and  kernels." 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE    SOUDAN. 

"  The  delta  of  the  Mekong  in  French  Cochin  China," 
said  Mr.  King,  "  is  much  like  this  of  the  Niger,  and  there 
many  of  the  islands  are  enclosed  by  embankments  and 
planted  with  rice,  which  makes  them  look  as  one  passes 
by  on  the  steamer,  like  fields  of  fine  grass  on  the  best  of 
our  meadows  at  home.  There  is  no  question  but  that  it 
will  grow  here  just  as  well  as  there." 

"  I  have  often  thought,"  said  Mr.  Stirley,  "  that  if  one 
of  these  islands  a  little  farther  up  the  river  where  the 
ground  is  dryer,  were  carefully  dyked,  and  Spanish  onions 
set  out  at  the  beginning  of  the  dry  season,  a  tremendous 
crop  might  be  raised,  for  one  could  have  all  the  physical 
conditions  quite  under  his  control.  A  deep  ditch  could  be 
dug  just  inside  the  embankment,  and  if  necessary  other 
ditches  could  be  made  at  intervals  across  the  field  ;  then 
by  means  of  a  powerful  pump  the  water  could  be  pumped 
from  these  ditches  until  the  ground  was  dry  enough  to 
work  ;  afterward  if  it  were  necessary  water  could  be  let  in 
through  sluice-gates  from  the  river,  or  pumped  out  at  the 
pleasure  of  the  owner.  By  this  means  the  proper  amount 
of  moisture  in  the  soil  could  always  be  maintained,  and 
the  yield  could  not  help  being  very  great.  When  we 
remember  that  these  onions  sell  at  home  for  as  much  as 
oranges,  it  is  easy  to  see  how  great  would  be  the  profit  in 
cultivating  them  under  such  favorable  circumstances." 

"  On  the  Amazons,"  said  Mr.  King,  "  this  is  just  the 
kind  of  ground  where  rubber  trees  are  found  ;  they  delight 
in  a  deep,  rich,  swampy  soil  like  this.  As  rubber  is 
advancing  in  price  yearly,  and  there  are  no  extra  supplies 
anywhere  in  the  world  to  draw  from,  it  seems  to  me  it 
might  pay  a  commercial  company  to  plant  a  few  thousand 
acres  with  rubber  trees  and  cultivate  them  carefully.  The 
land  can  now  be  had  for  next  to  nothing,  which  will  not 
be  long  the  case,  for  fertile    soil    like   this  will    soon    be 


103 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

wanted  for  rice,  sugar,  onions,  and  other  crops,  as  has  been 
suggested  by  Mr.  Stirley." 

After  some  further  conversation  breakfast  was  an- 
nounced and  our  friends  adjourned  to  the  cool  and  pleasant 
dining  room  to  do  justice  to  Mr.  Stirley 's  generous  hospi- 
tality. Meal-time  on  shore  does  not  correspond  with 
similar  times  on  shipboard.  At  five  o'clock  a.  m.  the 
watchman  calls  the  cook  and  wakes  up  the  boys.  The 
master  is  soon  around  and  coffee  with  a  little  toast  is  ready 
for  him,  after  which  the  bell  rings  and  by  the  first  dawning 
light  the  men  "  turn  to "  and  the  work  of  the  day  be- 
gins. Very  often  at  8  A.  m.  a  cup  of  coffee  is  brought  to 
each  white  man  wherever  he  ma}'  be,  and  affords  a  slight 
stimulus  to  the  stomach  without  giving  it  any  work  to 
do.  At  eleven  o'clock  in  the  oil  rivers  the  bell  rings  to 
"  knock  off  "  and  the  white  men  have  breakfast.  This  is 
an  excellent  and  substantial  meal,  with  fresh  fish,  roast 
meats,  curries  and  stews,  besides  vegetables  and  fruits. 
Usually  there  are  one  or  two  kinds  of  wine,  besides  ale 
and  beer,  and  black  coffee  at  the  close.  At  2  p.  m.  the 
bell  rings  to  "  turn  to  "  and  work  begins  again,  but  in  the 
afternoon  it  always  lacks  the  push  and  spirit  observable  in 
the  morning.  At  3  p.  m.  tea  is  brought  to  each  white 
man,  and  usually  to  the  Accra  and  Cape  Coast  men,  and  at 
six  o'clock  the  bell  rings  to  "  knock  off  "  and  the  work  of 
the  day  is  ended.  Dinner,  the  great  meal  of  the  day,  is 
now  announced.  This  is  served  in  regular  courses,  with 
entire  change  of  dishes  each  time,  and  goes  right  through 
from  soup  to  sweets  like  a  dinner  in  London.  The  West 
African  traders  live  well,  having  even*  sort  of  canned 
goods  at  their  command,  as  well  as  the  fresh  products  of 
the  country.  Onions  and  Irish  potatoes  are  brought  by 
every  steamer,  although  both  might  be  grown  in  the 
country.  The  native  meats  are  not  as  good  as  they  should 
be,  but  fresh  fish  can  almost  always  be  had,  and  usually 

104 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE  SOUDAN. 

very  cheaply.  Vegetables  are  not  abundant,  although  they 
ought  to  be,  except  at  places  like  Gaboon  where  there  are 
foreigners,  and  are  both  nourishing  and  wholesome.  Not 
enough  attention  is  paid  by  the  commercial  class  to  the 
planting  of  trees ;  if  a  little  more  care  were  exercised  in 
this  matter  it  would  be  of  great  benefit  to  all  white  assist- 
ants. It  would  be  well  if  the  great  commercial  companies 
required  each  factory  to  plant  a  certain  number  of  trees 
each  year  and  care  for  all  those  previously  planted  ;  some 
of  the  most  delightful  fruits  might  thus  be  grown.  One  of 
the  best  of  these  is  the  mangosteen. 

This  prince  of  fruits  grows  in  a  bunch  like  a  huge 
cluster  of  grapes,  and  is  produced  by  one  of  the  palms. 
Each  fruit  is  the  size  of  an  apple,  and  of  a  purple  color  like 
an  egg-plant.  The  husk  or  rind  is  half  an  inch  thick  and 
contains  a  dark  aniline  dye  that  might  be  made  an  article 
of  commerce.  On  cutting  this  husk  right  across  the  centre, 
out  comes  a  lump  of  white  pulp  the  size  of  a  peach  which 
melts  away  in  your  mouth  with  a  most  delicious  taste  that 
cannot  be  described.  More  than  all,  this  fruit  is  healthy  and 
it  should  be  grown  in  large  quantities.  It  does  not  bear 
fruit  all  the  year  through  like  the  banana,  but  has  a  season, 
like  our  own  home  fruits.  By  making  plantations  of  them 
in  the  lowlands  near  the  sea,  and  then  again  on  the  hills  in 
the  interior,  the  season  might  be  greatly  prolonged. 

The  Niger  delta  is  under  English  protection,  and 
should  at  once  be  formed  into  a  regular  colony,  for  the 
half-and-half  way  of  governing  it  that  answered  well  enough 
in  the  past,  must  now  come  to  an  end.  Heretofore  the 
settlements  in  "the  rivers",  as  Mr.  Stirley  has  already 
intimated,  were  simply  devoted  to  buying  the  oil  and 
kernels  produced  in  the  tide-water  region — beyond  this,  no 
one  cared  a  rap  about  either  the  country  or  its  people.  But 
now  an  era  of  change  has  set  in  ;  this  fertile  soil  must  yield 
up  its  treasures  for  the  benefit  of  humanity,  and  the  glorious 

105 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

region  beyond  the  Coast  Range  will  soon  be  needed  for 
homes  for  the  ever  increasing  millions  of  earth's  children. 
It  is  time  the  Niger  Delta  had  a  good  strong  government 
given  it ;  a  government  with  expansive  powers,  that  can 
reach  out  toward  the  vast  interior,  and  bring  it  speedily 
under  control.  A  beginning  has  already  been  made  by  the 
creation  of  the  Royal  Niger  Company,  a  great  commercial 
corporation  to  which  has  been  given  the  sole  right  to  trade 
on,  and  navigate  the  Niger.  The  headquarters  of  this 
company  is  on  the  Akassa  branch,  which  opens  more  directly 
into  the  Niger  than  any  of  the  other  rivers.  This  company 
may  be  of  great  benefit  in  opening  up  communication  along 
the  river,  but  its  vessels  should  be  made  common  carriers 
so  that  others  may  enjoy  the  benefits  of  this  communication, 
for  the  country  cannot  thrive  if  one  company  keeps  all  the 
lines  of  traffic  to  itself. 

Great  Britain  being  a  commercial  nation,  had  made 
the  mistake  of  supposing  that  all  a  new  country  needs  is  a 
chance  to  trade,  and  then  all  its  sources  of  wealth  will 
develop  themselves.  It  ought  to  be  clear  enough  to  the 
average  mind  that  commerce  is  the  last  of  the  industries  to 
flourish.  People  cannot  exchange  what  they  have  not.  In 
order  to  effect  a  trade,  the  articles  to  be  traded  in  must  first 
be  produced.  Africa,  with  a  moderate  population  of  lazy 
negroes,  afforded  some  trade  in  forest  products,  it  is  true  ; 
but  the  limit  has  been  reached  in  this  direction,  and  now 
to  make  her  profitable  to  the  nations,  she  must  have  first,  a 
strong,  able  government ;  second,  railways,  carriage  roads, 
and  river  steamers  ;  third,  great  industrial  (not  commercial) 
companies,  to  open  up  estates,  and  create  a  market  for  her 
agricultural  products ;  fourth,  immigration  of  industrious 
peoples,  who  will  make  homes  and  add  in  every  way  to  the 
wealth  that  may  now  begin  to  flow  through  commercial 
channels. 


1 06 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

If  the  British  Parliament  should  turn  out  a  full-fledged 
Royal  Niger  Company  every  day  in  the  year,  they  could 
only  purchase  what  the  present  population  produces.  This 
population  in  its  present  wild,  worthless,  savage  condition 
— made  less  productive  every  day  by  the  rum  traffic — is  not 
going  to  produce  any  more  than  it  does  now,  until  a  strong 
government  takes  affairs  in  hand  and  sets  them  to  work. 
This  enforced  industry — the  only  salvation  of  the  African 
race — can  be  best  accomplished  by  large  industrial  com- 
panies acting  under  a  wise  and  strong  colonial  government, 
and  the  sooner  it  is  applied  to  the  Niger  delta,  the  better  for 
all  concerned. 

The  Niger  may  be  considered  the  key  to  the  Great 
Soudan,  a  section  of  country  as  great  as  the  whole  of  Europe 
outside  of  Russia  ;  more  valuable  than  India  ;  which  may 
easily  become  the  home  of  three  hundred  millions  of  white 
colonists,  and  which  is  to-day  the  most  hopeful,  and  most 
valuable  portion  of  this  great  continent.  It  is  a  grand 
prize,  worthy  the  best  efforts  of  the  British  government  to 
obtain — worth  more  to  her  than  India,  Australia  and  Can- 
ada combined.  It  is  so  near  home  ;  and  she  has  three 
separate  paths  to  it,  viz.  Sierra  Leone,  Gold  Coast  and  the 
Niger.  This  magnificent  territory  is  not  covered  with  a- 
dense,  impenetrable  forest  like  some  portions  of  the  equa- 
torial regions  ;  nor  is  it  burned  up  with  drought  like  the 
plains  of  India  too  often  are,  but  it  is  just  the  country  for 
colonization  ;  fertile,  well-watered,  with  open  plains,  and 
park-like  forests,  level  prairies  and  low  ranges  of  hills,  a 
warm  climate  all  the  year  round,  and,  for  a  new  country,  a 
comparatively  healthy  one — there  is  not  to-day  a  more 
delightful  country  on  the  face  of  the  whole  earth,  nor  a 
more  promising  one. 

This  splendid  country  was  the  theme  of  conversation 
in  the  evening  when  the  little  company  of  friends  gathered 
on  Mr.  Stirley's  veranda  after  dinner.     Captain  Thompson 

107 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE    SOUDAN. 

had  joined  them  at  five  o'clock,  and  as  they  smoked  Mr. 
Stirley's  cigars  and  drank  their  coffee  they  talked  of  the 
changes  that  had  taken  place  on  the  Coast  during  the  past 
few  years,  and  especially  of  the  settlement  of  the  Soudan 
which  now  seems  so  near. 

"  Yes,"  asserted  Captain  Thompson,  "  I  believe  it  is 
a  matter  of  only  a  few  years  when  our  steamers  will  be 
loaded  with  furniture  and  household  necessities,  and  some 
of  the  great  Atlantic-liners  will  be  glad  to  turn  to  this  trade, 
and  will  come  out  loaded  with  steerage  passengers.  I  have 
come  out  to  Bonny  in  my  own  little  ship  many  a  time  in 
eighteen  days,  and  such  vessels  as  the  Umbria  and  Etruria 
will  have  no  trouble  in  landing  their  passengers  here  on  the 
tenth  day.  River  steamers  can  come  at  once  alongside  in 
these  quiet  waters,  and  in  twelve  hours  the  emigrants  can 
be  on  their  way  up  the  river,  and  almost  before  they  know 
it  they  will  be  out  of  the  tide-water  region." 

"  Unless  some  great  war  or  plague  interferes,"  observed 
Mr.  King,  "  by  the  end  of  the  next  thirty  years  the  popu- 
lation of  Great  Britain  will  increase  some  fort}'  millions, 
and  the  population  of  Germany  as  much  more  ;  here  are 
eighty  millions  of  the  choicest  of  the  human  race  who  will 
want  homes  and  a  chance  to  make  a  living  ;  but  where  ? 
Not  in  the  United  States  surely,  for  that  will  have  another 
eighty  million  of  its  own  by  that  time.  Not  in  our  over- 
crowded India,  nor  even  in  Australia,  for  its  own  fast 
increasing  population  will  soon  want  all  the  room  it  has  to 
spare.  Where  then  will  this  eighty  millions  find  a  home  ? 
Here  in  this  Great  Soudan,  a  country  God  has  kept  hid 
from  men's  minds  until  it  was  wanted,  but  now  He  seems 
to  be  saying  '  haste  and  make  ready  for  it  will  soon  be 
needed.'  To-day  this  grand  country  can  be  had  for  the 
taking ;  in  thirty  years  every  acre  of  it  will  be  worth  as 
many  dollars,  and  all  the   improved  portion  a  great  deal 


108 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE    SOUDAN. 

more  ;  there  is  no  better  investment  to-day  than  these  same 
broad  and  fertile  acres." 

"  Here,"  added  Air.  Alexander,  "  is  the  land  for  the 
Irish  ;  bring  them  out  here,  keep  whisky  and  ignorant 
priests  away  from  them  ;  let  them  build  railways  and  other 
public  works,  and  have  their  little  homes,  each  with  a  pig 
in  it,  and  by  the  time  the  country  fills  up  we  may  hope 
they  will  be  sufficiently  civilized  to  settle  down  peaceably 
and  make  good  citizens,  and  thus  the  Irish  question  will  be 
settled  forever." 

"  Right  you  are,"  exclaimed  Mr.  Schiff,  quite  warmed 
up  with  the  pleasing  prospect  of  the  Irishmen  building  the 
railways,  "all  I  ask  is  to  live  to  be  an  old  man  so  that  I 
can  come  out  here  and  see  it." 

"  Well,"  added  Mr.  King,  "  you  need  not  wait  a  great 
while  to  see  that ;  I  have  little  doubt  it  will  be  here  to  be 
seen  before  ten  years  have  passed." 

"  A  great  many  cattle  are  raised  now  on  the  wide 
pastures  of  the  Soudan,"  said  Mr.  Stirley,  addressing  Mr. 
King,  "  and  I  should  not  be  surprised  if  one  of  the  first  im- 
portant industries  of  this  country  were  cattle  raising,  just 
as  has  been  the  case  in  your  country.  The  sea-coast  region 
is  in  want  of  fresh  meat,  and  these  cattle  will  find  a  home 
market  at  good  prices  ;  there  will  be  no  killing  of  cattle  for 
hides  and  tallow  as  has  been  the  case  in  South  America 
and  Australia." 

"  Our  own  experience  has  been,"  replied  Mr.  King, 
"  that  cattle-raising  in  the  way  you  speak  of  is  only  practi- 
cable when  the  country  is  new  and  land  abundant  ;  all 
large  cattle  companies  are  sooner  or  later  forced  to  sell 
their  lands  to  actual  settlers,  and  so  it  will  be  here,  but  for 
a  few  years  there  will,  no  doubt,  be  fortunes  made  at  it,  as 
much  by  the  rise  in  value  of  the  land,  as  by  the  increase  of 
cattle." 

109 


NIGER    DELTA    AND   THE    SOUDAN. 

"  These  cattle  pastures  that  you  are  speaking  of," 
added  Mr.  Alexander,  "  will  make  the  best  of  cotton  fields. 
Cotton,  as  we  have  already  seen,  is  largely  grown  in  India, 
and  as  the  Soudan  is  in  the  same  latitude,  there  is  no 
reason  why  it  should  not  grow  as  well  here.  What  is  to 
hinder  England  from  placing  a  duty  upon  all  cotton  not 
grown  in  her  own  colonies  ;  that  would  help  India,  Egypt 
and  the  Soudan  ?  There  is  no  reason  that  I  can  see  why 
we  should  buy  our  cotton  of  America,  when  we  can  as  well 
raise  it  ourselves.  Then  if  we  thought  best,  we  could  sub- 
sidize fast  steamers  to  the  Coast  with  the  money  received 
as  duty  on  cotton,  and  thus  build  up  the  fruit  trade  which 
needs  quick  and  regular  transportation." 

"  Your  scheme  is  a  good  one,"  answered  Mr.  Schiff, 
"  and  now  tell  me,  where  will  all  the  lumber  come  from  to 
build  houses  for  these  people  when  they  move  here  ;  won't 
you  have  to  bring  it  from  Sweden  and  Finland  ?  " 

"No  doubt,"  replied  Mr.  Stirley,  "that  much  will 
need  to  be  imported,  especially  at  first,  but  I  think  local 
supplies  can  be  found  without  very  much  difficulty.  The 
entire  slope  of  the  Kong  mountains  and  many  of  the 
adjacent  foot-hills  are  covered  with  forest,  and  as  this  lum- 
ber would  all  have  a  local  market,  it  ought  to  pay  well  to 
saw  it  up.  Then  the  level  lands  south  of  the  Kong  moun- 
tains are  mostly  forest,  and  here  is  another  supply.  When 
the  railway  is  built  in  from  Cape  Coast  it  can  carry  this 
lumber  through  the  mountains  into  the  Soudan  by  the  back- 
door, as  it  were,  as  most  of  the  freight  will  move  toward 
the  sea  ;  the  companies  will  be  glad  to  carry  this  back 
freight  very  cheaply.  But  I  do  not  think  that  wood  will 
be  the  main  building  material ;  the  numerous  detached 
hills  all  through  the  Soudan  will  furnish  the  best  of  sand- 
stone ;  and  when  a  house  is  built  of  this  material  it  will 
last  for  generations.  As  for  the  natives,  they  will  prefer  to 
build  of  bamboo  and  clay,  just  as  they  do  now." 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

"  How  far  is  the  Niger  navigable?"  inquired  Captain 
Thompson. 

"  As  far  as  Brossa,"  replied  Mr.  Stirley  ;  "  then  there 
are  rapids  that  will  need  a  railway  built  around  them, 
beyond  the  rapids  light  draft  steamers  can  go  for  many 
hundred  miles.  Settlements,  of  course,  will  follow  the 
rivers  at  first,  but  it  will  not  be  long,  for  whenever  a 
specially  desirable  locality  is  found,  a  railway  will  at  once 
be  built  to  it,  and  it  will  quickly  be  settled  up." 

"  I  think,"  said  Mr.  King,  "  that  one  of  the  first  indus- 
tries to  be  developed  will  be  the  raising  of  horses  and 
mules.  With  the  incoming  of  a  large  population  and  the 
settlement  of  the  country,  there  will  spring  up  a  large 
demand  for  these  animals  for  agricultural  and  other  pur- 
poses." 

"  The  horses  they  have  now  in  the  Soudan,"  replied  Mr. 
Stirley,  "  are  something  like  your  American  ponies,  small 
and  tough,  and  well  suited  to  work.  It  will  require  a  vast 
number  of  them  to  cultivate  so  large  an  extent  of  country, 
and  as  you  suggest,  the  business  of  breeding  them  cannot 
fail  to  be  profitable.  It  may  be  that  some  form  of  steam 
plow  that  is  thoroughly  practical  will  yet  be  discovered, 
and  if  it  should  be,  then  the  immediate  cultivation  of  the 
Soudan  prairies  can  be  proceeded  with.  The  principal 
objection  to  these  plows  has  hitherto  been  the  weight,  but 
with  the  cheapening  of  aluminum  that  objection  can  be 
overcome." 

"  I  think,"  said  Mr.  King,  "  that  it  will  not  be  many 
years  before  some  sort  of  receiver,  or  storage  battery  will 
be  invented  that  will  hold  a  sufficient  quantity  of  electricity 
to  run  a  plow,  and  so  our  fields  may  be  cultivated  by  this 
wonderful  force.  The  dynamos  could  be  run  by  windmills 
and  the  trouble  and  expense  be  no  greater  than  the  keep  of 
a  horse  ;  especially  might  that  be  the  case  here  near  the 
sea  where  the  breezes  are  so  constant.      In  our  own  country 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE    SOUDAN. 

a  number  of  street-car  lines  are  run  by  storage  batteries, 
and  it  will  not  be  long  before  carriages  and  bicycles  are  run 
in  the  same  way." 

"  One  of  the  profitable  industries  of  the  hill  region  of 
the  Soudan,"  said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  will  be  the  raising  of 
tea.  Vast  quantities  of  tea  are  now  produced  in  Ceylon  and 
India,  particularly  in  Assam,  and  it  seems  to  me  that  the 
Kong  country  is  exactly  adapted  to  it.  In  Assam  the 
plants  are  grown  in  nursery  rows  for  one  year,  and  are  then 
set  out  five  feet  apart  each  way,  which  gives  seventeen 
hundred  plants  to  an  acre.  The  third  year  the  leaves  are 
taken,  and  the  bush  continues  in  bearing  condition  for  ten 
years.  Four  pounds  of  the  green  leaves  make  one  pound 
of  tea,  and  as  the  picking  continues  through  the  year,  so 
the  plantation  is  always  bringing  in  an  income.  I  should 
not  be  surprised  if  it  would  pay  well  to  plant  tea  in  connec- 
tion with  larger  trees,  such  as  oranges,  cocoanut,  breadfruit, 
pear,  durian,  mangosteen  and  lemon  trees ;  while  these 
slower  growing  trees  are  coming  to  maturity,  the  tea 
bushes  will  be  paying  a  profit  on  the  investment.  Take 
the  matter  of  the  orange  ;  the  tree  is  a  slow  grower,  and 
does  not  bear  much  until  eight  or  ten  years  old.  That  is  a 
long  time  to  wait,  but  if  the  ground  is  well  filled  in  with  tea 
bushes,  they  can  at  least  defray  the  cost  of  cultivation." 

"  One  of  the  fruits  that  can  be  had  in  perfection  in  the 
Soudan,"  observed  Mr.  Stirley,  "  is  the  peach.  Vast 
orchards  of  this  fruit  might  be  planted,  and  all  that  was  not 
wanted  for  the  local  market  could  be  dried  and  sent  to 
Europe  where  it  will  be  needed.  I  think  too  that  apples 
might  be  grown  on  the  higher  elevations  of  the  Kong 
mountains  and  they  would  find  a  ready  market  on  the 
Coast.  In  the  northern  provinces  of  the  Soudan  a  large 
business  might  be  done  in  raising  dates  and  olives ;  both 
grow  well  and  yield  abundantly  and  a  market  for  these 
fruits  will  continue  while  the  world  lasts  ;  indeed  there  is  no 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE    SOUDAN. 

end  to  the  products  of  this  rich  region,  and  here  it  is 
waiting  to  contribute  its  wealth  for  the  benefit  of  mankind. 
It  is  the  finest  country  under  the  sun,  and  will  some  day 
become  a  great  empire  and  have  a  voice  in  the  councils  of 
the  earth.  Just  look  at  its  situation,  right  in  the  centre  of 
this  great  continent,  and  so  near  Europe  that  many  of  its- 
fruits  and  vegetables  may  be  sent  there  !  I  tell  you,  gentle- 
men, it  is  worth  more  to  the  world  to-day  than  half  of  Asia. 
Three  cheers  for  the  Soudan,  the  finest  land  on  which  the 
sun  shines,  and  the  future  home  of  the  Anglo  Saxon  !  " 

The  little  party  gave  three  rousing  cheers  that  made 
the  Kru-boys  and  other  native  assistants  come  running  to 
see  what  was  the  matter.  Nor  need  we  wonder  at  their 
enthusiasm,  for  although  the)'  know  Africa  far  better  than 
we  do,  yet  even  the  most  careless  reader  can  see  that  it  is  a 
rich  and  desirable  country,  and  with  the  natural  increase  of 
population  it  will  soon  be  needed  for  homes  by  millions  of 
people.  Nor  have  they  at  all  overrated  the  resources  of 
the  country,  but  rather  the  contrary,  for  there  is  perhaps  no 
country  in  the  world  so  well  watered  and  fertile.  The 
party  broke  up  shortly  after  ten  o'clock  and  Captain 
Thompson  took  his  passengers  back  to  the  Kisanga  where 
they  had  a  drop  of  bitters  and  then  "  turned  in  ". 

One  of  the  great  advantages  of  the  Soudan  is  that  by 
the  aid  of  irrigation  during  the  dry  season,  two  crops  a  year 
may  be  raised.  It  is  also  comparatively  healthy,  and  when 
fully  settled  will  at  least  be  as  favorable  for  the  development 
of  the  Anglo  Saxon  as  any  country  of  Europe.  There  is 
no  long,  hard  winter  here  to  fight,  but  warm  and  pleasant 
weather  all  through  the  year.  The  productions  include 
nearly  the  whole  range  of  all  that  is  grown  in  both  the 
tropic  and  temperate  zones  ;  for  the  valleys  are  warm 
enough  for  the  palms  and  bananas,  and  among  the  hills  and 
on  the  higher  plateaus  wheat  and  other  grains  flourish. 


113 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE    SOUDAN. 

Of  course  there  may  be  a  few  who  will  object  to  the 
rose-colored  opinions  of  onr  friends,  either  through  igno- 
rance of  the  riches  of  the  Soudan  and  its  adaptability 
to  maintain  a  large  European  population  ;  or  else  through 
sheer  inability  to  see  a  thing  until  after  it  occurs.  There 
are  multitudes  who  cannot  see  a  thing  until  after  it  has 
happened,  and  who  do  not  fully  understand  it  even  then. 
Such  persons  stand  in  the  way  of  every  enterprise  and  the 
world  must  get  along  in  spite  of  them,  rather  than  with 
their  help.  The  changes  foreshadowed  in  these  pages  are 
not  relatively  greater  than  the  writer  has  seen  with  his  own 
eyes  on  the  West  African  coast  during  the  last  sixteen 
years. 

A  notable  instance  of  how  mistaken  even  good  men 
may  be  in  their  estimate  of  the  value  of  new  countries,  is 
furnished  by  Daniel  Webster.  Less  than  fifty  years  ago  a 
bill  was  brought  before  the  United  States  Senate  to  establish 
a  mail  route  from  Western  Missouri  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river.  Senator  Webster  opposed  the  measure  as 
a  useless  expense  and  spoke  as  follows  :  "  What  do  we  want 
with  this  vast  worthless  area — this  region  of  savages  and 
wild  beasts,  of  deserts,  of  shifting  sands  and  whirlwinds  of 
dust,  of  cactus  and  prairie  dogs?  To  what  use  could  we 
ever  hope  to  put  these  deserts,  or  these  endless  mountain 
chains,  impenetrable  and  covered  to  their  bases  with  eternal 
snow?  What  can  we  ever  hope  to  do  with  the  western 
coast — a  coast  three  thousand  miles  long,  rock-bound, 
cheerless  and  uninviting,  and  not  a  harbor  on  it  ?  What 
use  have  we  for  such  a  country  ?  Mr.  President,  I  will 
never  vote  a  cent  from  the  public  treasury  to  place  the 
Pacific  Coast  one  inch  nearer  to  Boston  than  it  now  is." 

If  Mr.  Webster  were  living  to-day  he  might  be  whirled 
through  this  same  region  at  fifty  miles  an  hour  in  a  Pull- 
man Vestibule  Sleeper,  that  for  luxurious  appointments 
surpasses  an}-  drawing-room   he   ever  saw  in  his  beloved 

114 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

Boston  ;  and  in  less  than  fifty  years  many  who  are  living 
to-day  may  ride  through  the  length  and  breadth  of  the 
Soudan  in  equal  or  even  greater  luxury,  past  the  homes  of 
happy  millions,  and  cities  of  wealth  and  refinement.  The 
world  has  grown  so  much  in  wealth  and  power,  that  it  will 
accomplish  more  in  the  next  twenty-five  years,  than  it  has 
in  the  last  century.  The  changes  and  improvements  of  our 
own  North- West  will  be  more  than  repeated  in  the  Great 
Soudan.  This  wondrous  land,  as  soon  as  it  is  fairly  in  the 
possession  of  England,  will  be  the  most  hopeful  for  coloni- 
zation of  any  now  available. 

The  Kisanga  continued  on  Tuesday  to  unload  cargo, 
and  at  5  p.  m.  of  that  da)'  turned  her  prow  seaward  once 
more  and  continued  her  voyage  to  the  eastward.  Our 
friends  were  sorry  to  leave  Mr.  Stirley's  kind  hospitality, 
and  the}'  watched  the  factory  buildings  sink  gradually 
beneath  the  waters  with  genuine  regret.  To  Mr.  King  this 
was  a  symbol  of  the  passing  away  of  the  present  trade 
system  in  simple  forest  products,  and  the  dawn  of  a  new 
era  of  prosperity,  built  upon  the  solid  foundation  of  in- 
dustry and  thrift. 

In  the  evening  the  party  gathered,  as  usual,  under  the 
awning  to  have  a  chat,  and  at  the  same  time  finish  the 
remainder  of  Mr.  Stirley's  cigars,  which  they  had  taken  the 
precaution  to  slip  into  their  pockets.  It  may  as  well  be 
mentioned  just  here  that  on  the  Coast,  especially  among 
friends,  it  is  customary  to  steal  pipes,  tobacco,  cigars,  cork- 
screws and  many  other  small  articles,  "  just  to  remember 
him  by,  don't-cher-know,"  and  our  friends  had  simply 
availed  themselves  of  this  privilege. 

"  What  Mr.  Stirley  said  about  Spanish  onions," 
remarked  Mr.  Alexander,  "  has  set  me  to  thinking.  Would 
it  be  possible  for  the  Soudan  to  raise  vegetabtes  for 
Europe?  " 

115 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE   SOUDAN. 

"  I  hardly  think  so,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "  although 
there  are  a  few  that  might  be  grown  and  shipped  ;  the 
onions  you  spoke  of  is  one,  and  the  Irish  potatoes,  sweet 
potatoes  and  yams  could  be  sent  well  enough.  There  are 
other  places  in  Africa  where  almost  every  kind  of  vegetable 
could  be  raised  and  sent  without  difficulty.  Take  Sierra 
Leone  and  Senegambia ;  what  is  to  hinder  tomatoes,  egg- 
plants, melons  and  cucumbers  from  being  sent  to  London 
as  soon  as  those  colonies  shall  have  become  of  sufficient  im- 
portance to  put  on  fast  steamers?  Such  steamers  as  now 
run  to  America  could  arrive  in  London  six  days  after  leav- 
ing Sierra  Leone,  and  that  is  not  too  long  a  voyage  for  all 
the  more  substantial  vegetables.  Quantities  of  string  beans 
peas,  beets  and  radishes  are  now  brought  from  Bermuda  to 
New  York,  and  it  may  be  these  could  be  taken,  too ;  but 
about  that  I  am  not  so  sure.  But  there  is  another  source 
of  supply.  The  French  are  now  surveying  for  a  railway 
across  the  Sahara.  This  will  pass  through  many  fertile 
tracts,  where,  by  the  aid  of  irrigation,  the  very  best  of  vege- 
tables could  be  grown,  and  would  be  ready  for  market  in 
January,  February  and  March,  when  fresh  vegetables  are 
in  such  demand  in  the  North.  These  crops  could  be 
shipped  by  rail  to  Algiers,  thence  by  fast  steamer  to  Mar- 
sailles,  and  by  rail  to  France,  Germany  and  Austria.  The 
time  would  be  the  same  as  by  steamer  from  Sierra  Leone — 
six  days,  but  they  would  reach  a  different  market,  and 
would  always  meet  with  a  good  demand.  So,  too,  with  all 
kinds  of  fruits,  if  they  can  be  sold  at  a  moderate  price,  so 
as  to  place  them  within  the  reach  of  every  one,  the  demand 
for  them  will  be  practically  unlimited.'" 

"  It  seems  to  me,"  said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  that  our  people 
do  not  yet  realize  how  near  Africa  is  to  them  ;  we  think  of 
the  tropics  as  very  far  away,  because  heretofore  the  tropics 
have  meant  to  us  India,  Burmah  and  Siam,  while  in  reality 


116 


NIGER    DELTA    AND    THE    SOUDAN. 

this  wonderful  African  coast  is  very  near  to  us,  and  has 
been  all  the  while." 

"  The  City  of  Paris,"  added  Captain  Thompson,  "  can 
steam  to  Liverpool  from  where  we  are  to-night  in  eight 
days.  The  freight  rates  from  Africa  are  higher  than  they 
are  from  New  York,  and  a  moderate  subsidy  from  the 
Government  would  enable  ships  of  her  class  to  run  out 
here." 

The  next  morning  the  peak  of  Fernando  Po  appeared 
on  the  horizon  dead  ahead,  and  gradually  rose  from  the 
water  as  the  morning  progressed  until  by  noon  it  seemed  to 
fill  the  eastern  sky.  The  Kisanga  rounded  the  northern 
end  of  the  island,  and  at  2  p.  m.  anchored  in  the  bay  of 
Clarence.  The  vegetation  here  is  the  richest  and  most 
exuberant  imaginable  ;  the  whole  island  appeared  as  a  mass 
of  greener}-  and  even  the  peak  appeared  wooded  to  the 
summit.  Clarence  is  but  a  small  place,  yet  it  appears  to 
good  advantage  from  the  anchorage,  as  it  is  built  along  the 
bluff  that  encircles  the  harbor.  This  island  once  belonged 
to  Great  Britian,  and  large  quantities  of  coffee  were  exported, 
but  in  an  evil  hour  it  was  transferred  to  Spain,  and  the 
coffee  estates  soon  passed  into  neglect  and  decay.  Nothing 
flourished  under  Spanish  rule,  which  seems  to  poison  every 
land  it  touches. 

The  entire  island  is  densely  wooded  and  there  is  much 
good  timber  that  might  be  a  source  of  wealth,  as  ever}-  foot 
of  it  could  be  sold  at  the  coast  ports  near  by,  but  it  will  not 
be  cut,  nor  will  any  marked  improvement  take  place  as  long 
as  the  island  belongs  to  Spain.  It  is  a  convenient  place  for 
ships  to  call,  and  ought  to  furnish  vegetables  and  other 
supplies,  especially  as  the  best  yams  on  the  whole  coast  are 
grown  there,  but  nothing  will  be  done  unless  England  or 
Germany  gets  hold  of  it,  and  then  it  may  be  made  one  of 
ocean's  gems. 


117 


Chapter  VI 


OLD  CALABAR. 


T 


HE  Kisanga  left  Clarence  harbor  at  ten  o'clock  on 
Wednesday  evening,  October  the  first,  and  steamed 
"  slow  "  all  night  across  the  Gulf  of  Guinea  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Old  Calabar  river,  which  was 
reached  at  dawn.  The  Old  Calabar  brings  down  an 
immense  amount  of  silt  which  is  deposited  when  the  salt 
water  is  reached,  and  this  has  built  up  wide  mud-flats 
extending  far  out  to  sea,  so  that  the  real  bar  of  the  river  is 
almost  out  of  sight  of  solid  land.  The  perpendicular  rise 
and  fall  of  the  tide  here  is  but  four  feet,  so  that  vessels  of 
moderate  draft  can  go  in  and  out  at  any  time,  but  ships 
drawing  twenty  feet  must  cross  the  bar  at  the  top  of  high 
water.  The  channel  is  well  buoyed,  and  there  is  no  great 
difficulty  in  even  a  new  captain  finding  his  way. 

Duketown  is  forty  miles  up  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  built  on  high  ground  which  is  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  a  back  creek.  The  anchorage  is  good,  and 
ocean  steamers  can  come  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the 
shore.  It  would  be  quite  easy  to  build  piers  to  the  deep 
waters  so  that  vessels  like  the  Kisanga  could  come  right 
alongside  and  discharge  direct  into  warehouse,  or  into  rail- 
way carriages.     The  engraving  of  the  foreign  settlement, 


nS 


OLD    CALABAR. 

which  is  copied  from  a  photograph  taken  from  the  end  of 
the  pier  at  Hope  Factory,  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  physical 
conditions  of  the  river,  and  shows  how  easy  it  would  be  to 
put  in  the  necessary  piling  and  fill  in  the  enclosed  space 
from  the  adjoining  hill — it  is  simply  a  question  of  the 
requisite  number  of  cubic  yards  of  earth. 

The  Kisanga  came  to  her  anchorage  at  10  A.  m.  and  a 
few  minutes  later  handsome  gigs  were  seen  putting  off  from 
each  of  the  factories,  bringing  their  owners  on  board  to  get 
their  mail  and  hear  the  news.  Our  friends  were  well  known 
to  most  of  these  gentlemen  and  they  were  soon  in  receipt  of 
many  pressing  invitations  to  come  on  shore.  It  was  arranged 
that  they  should  spend  the  day  with  Mr.  Albert  Gilles, 
representing  the  firm  of  Taylor,  Laughlin  &  Co.,  sleep  on 
the  Kisanga,  and  then  spend  the  next  day  with  Mr.  James 
Lyon  at  Hope  Factory  at  the  upper  end  of  the  foreign  set- 
tlement. These  preliminaries  being  arranged,  Mr.  Gilles 
took  the  four  gentlemen  in  his  handsome  gig,  leaving 
Captain  Thompson  to  come  toward  evening  in  time  for 
dinner.  Mr.  Gilles'  factory  is  below  where  the  Kisanga  is 
anchored  as  seen  in  the  picture,  and  is  a  large  and  comfort- 
able place. 

It  was  a  busy  scene  that  greeted  the  eyes  of  our  four 
friends  as  they  landed  at  the  pier  ;  coopers  were  hammering 
away  upon  great  casks,  making  a  deafening  din  ;  Kru-boys 
were  drawing  up  smaller  casks  of  oil  from  native  canoes  by 
means  of  an  iron  crane ;  others  were  heating  the  oil  in 
immense  cauldrons  and  pouring  it  into  new  casks ;  long 
lines  of  boys  were  carrying  up  sacks  and  baskets  of  kernels 
which  were  measured  in  "  tubs  "  and  then  sewn  up  in  new 
sacks  preparatory  to  shipment ;  native  traders  were  count- 
ing over  piles  of  cloth,  kegs  of  powder,  heads  of  tobacco, 
cases  of  gin,  iron  pots,  plates,  dishes  and  other  trade  goods, 
and  their  slaves  were  taking  them  to  the  beach  and  putting 
them  in  the  canoes  ;   everything  was  done  in  a  business-like 

n9 


OLD   CALABAR. 

way,  and  those  who  think  business  cannot  be  carried  on  as 
promptly  and  efficiently  in  the  tropics  as  in  northern  climes, 
would  do  well  to  make  a  visit  to  Old  Calabar. 

The  dwelling  house  stood  near  the  river,  separated 
from  the  water  by  a  broad  graveled  walk,  shaded  by  beauti- 
ful palms.  As  usual,  the  shop  occupied  the  ground  floor, 
and  the  living  rooms  were  above.  From  the  veranda  was 
a  fine  view  of  the  river,  and  of  the  swampy  jungle  on  the 
island  opposite. 

After  breakfast  Mr.  Gilles  asked  his  guests  to  excuse 
him  as  he  had  so  many  things  that  claimed  his  attention, 
and  they  saw  but  little  of  him  until  dinner  time.  About 
three  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  sea  breeze  had  come  in 
cool  and  refreshing,  our  friends  concluded  to  climb  the 
hill  and  visit  the  Scotch  Presbyterian  Mission,  and  then 
take  a  stroll  through  the  native  town.  Duketown  has 
some  ten  or  twelve  thousand  inhabitants  and  is  a  fair  type 
of  the  towns,  not  only  of  the  sea-coast  region,  but  also  of 
the  Soudan. 

The  road  to  the  Mission  led  up  a  steep  face  of  the  bluff 
and  was  quite  fatiguing  climbing,  but  the  view  from  the 
top  was  wide  and  extensive,  taking  in  most  of  the  native 
town  on  the  north,  with  the  river  in  front  and  the  jungle 
on  the  island  opposite.  On  a  clear  day  Mt.  Albert  of  the 
Cameroons  range  may  be  seen  in  the  southeast,  but  usually 
the  air  is  too  much  filled  with  vapors.  The  grounds  of  the 
Mission  are  tastefully  laid  out,  and  the  houses  looked  cool 
and  comfortable.  Our  friends  noticed  here  what  may  be 
seen  at  most  any  of  the  ports  along  the  Western  Coast,  that 
the  missionary  establishments  were  not  built  in  the  midst 
of  the  native  populations,  nor  upon  the  main  lines  of  travel, 
but  off  to  one  side,  as  if  the  governing  idea  had  been  to  get 
anywhere  they  would  not  be  annoyed  by  an}'  one.  If  a 
hunter  were  setting  a  trap  for  game  he  would  put  the  trap 
near  the  paths  where  the  game  traveled  ;  and  those  who 


OLD    CALABAR. 

would  catch  men,  if  they  desire  to  be  successful,  should  do 
the  same  thing.  Here  in  Old  Calabar  the  river  is  the  only 
highway,  and  a  church  upon  its  bank  would  be  convenient 
and  always  in  sight ;  but  perched  upon  the  top  of  a  hill,  and 
in  the  yard  of  a  private  dwelling  it  may  be  very  convenient 
for  the  missionary,  but  not  likely  to  draw  much  of  a  con- 
gregation ;  and  such  our  friends  learned  was  the  case.  Mrs. 
Ross,  a  trading  missionary,  has  done  better.  With  the  aid 
of  the  traders  and  the  wealthier  natives,  she  has  built  a 
large  plain  church  in  the  midst  of  the  native  town,  where  a 
congregation  of  six  hundred  worship  every  Sabbath.  This 
good  woman,  although  very  fleshy,  was  exceedingly  active 
and  energetic  and  a  fine  example  of  what  European  ladies 
may  accomplish  in  this  land.  Many  of  the  wealthier 
natives  of  Duketown  live  in  large  plank  houses  with  gal- 
vanized iron  roofs,  that  have  been  brought  out  from 
England  at  an  expense  of  from  three  thousand  to  fifteen 
thousand  dollars.  These  houses  are  nicely  furnished,  and 
are  in  every  way  as  comfortable  as  our  own  better  class  of 
houses  at  home.  Their  owners  live  mostly  after  the  native 
fashion,  but  when  white  visitors  call,  they  can  set  a  good 
table  in  the  European  way  and  with  a  goodly  proportion  of 
foreign  food. 

Old  Calabar  is  famous  throughout  the  whole  length 
of  the  Coast  for  its  palm-oil  chop,  which  is  here  blacker, 
richer  and  more  peppery  than  anywhere  else.  This  excel- 
lent and  healthy  dish  is  everywhere  a  favorite  with  old 
Coasters,  but  new-comers  partake  of  it  somewhat  gingerly, 
partly  because  of  the  peculiar  flavor,  and  partly  because  it 
burns  their  throats.  It  is  made  of  the  pulp  and  oil  of  the 
fresh  palm  nut,  stewed  with  various  kinds  of  meats  and 
fish,  and  a  liberal  amount  of  small  chile  peppers.  Monkey 
meat  and  other  game  make  the  best  chop,  and  the  native 
cooks  put  in  various  ingredients  unknown  to  the  white 
man.     At  Batanga  and  some  other  points  the  flesh   of  the 


OLD    CALABAR. 

python  is  esteemed  above  all  other,  and  is  said  by  those 
who  have  eaten  it  to  be  very  fat  and  nice.  Whatever 
difference  of  opinion  there  may  be  in  reference  to  these 
details,  certain  it  is  that  a  palm-oil  chop  is  a  royal  dish  fit 
for  a  king — better  food  doubtless  than  most  kings  get  to 
eat.  It  is  healthful,  nutritions,  and  very  agreeable  to  the 
palate.  A  large  and  profitable  business  might  be  built  np 
by  making  the  chop  without  the  meat,  putting  it  into  pint 
glass  cans,  and  exporting  it.  There  is  not  a  country  in  the 
world  where  it  would  not  be  largely  used  as  soon  as  it  was 
introduced,  and  it  would  almost  surely  become  as  univer- 
sally popular  as  tobacco.  It  should  be  made  from  perfectly 
fresh  nuts,  and  by  putting  it  up  without  meat,  it  would 
save  for  years,  and  keep  in  any  climate.  When  wanted  for 
use  it  should  be  taken  from  the  can,  some  water  added,  and 
any  kind  of  meat  or  fish  desired  stewed  in  it  until  tender, 
when  it  would  be  ready  to  be  served.  It  is  to  be  hoped 
that  this  desirable  food  may  be  soon  found  in  all  the 
markets  of  the  world. 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  Duketown  population  is 
engaged  in  fishing.  This  is  carried  on  mostly  by  a  kind  of 
basket  net,  held  in  place  by  two  poles  stuck  in  the  mud. 
The  fish  go  into  the  basket  for  the  bait,  and  then  cannot 
get  out  again.  Cast  nets  are  also  used.  All  the  fish  not 
needed  for  the  local  market  are  dried  and  taken  up  country, 
where  they  are  esteemed  a  luxury.  Vast  quantities  of  dried 
codfish  and  halibut  from  Norway  are  imported  and  find  a 
ready  sale,  but  while  they  are  popular,  the}'  are  not  so 
highly  esteemed  as  the  Calabar  fish.  It  is  a  singular  fact 
that  large  quantities  of  rice  and  biscuit  are  imported,  as  the 
native  population  prefer  to  expend  part  of  the  profits  of  the 
oil  trade  in  this  foreign  food,  rather  than  cultivate  the 
ground  themselves.  The  principal  native  food  throughout 
this  section  is  the  yam,  which  grows  to  a  large  size  and  is 
easily  cultivated.     There  are   a   number  of  varieties,  but 


OLD    CALABAR. 

most  of  them  have  a  dark  brown  skin,  and  are  as  white  as 
snow  when  cooked.  The}'  are  less  nourishing  than  the 
plantain,  and  have  a  certain  bitter  twang  not  always 
agreeable  to  the  foreigner.  Manioc  is  a  favorite  because 
so  easily  grown,  but  it  is  rather  a  coarse  food  ;  however,  it 
seems  to  suit  the  native  digestion,  and  is  about  as  nourish- 
ing as  the  potato. 

Our  friends  made  quite  an  extended  tour  through  the 
native  town,  and  when  the}'  returned  to  the  factory  at  sun- 
set, they  were  quite  ready  for  dinner.  They  found  a  little 
company  assembled  ;  besides  Captain  Thompson  there  was 
Mr.  James  Lyon,  Mr.  Burn,  Mr.  Hartley,  Mr.  Holmes  and 
Mr.  Sleigh.  Mr.  Holmes  possessed  a  great  reputation  for 
skill  in  mixing  cocktails,  and  he  was  deep  in  the  mysteries 
of  compounding  this  drink  when  our  friends  came  in  ;  Mr. 
Schiff  was  quite  enthusiastic  at  the  prospect,  and  showed 
his  appreciation  of  Mr.  Holmes'  efforts  by  taking  three,  and 
then  declared  himself  ready  for  dinner. 

The  dining-room  was  so  located  that  the  sea  breeze 
could  not  sweep  through,  so  a  punka  was  suspended  over 
the  table  with  a  boy  outside  to  pull  the  cord,  and  this 
created  a  most  refreshing  breeze.  In  very  few  lands  is  there 
as  much  good  cheer,  and  as  ready  hospitality  as  there  is  in 
Africa  ;  those  who  visit  its  shores  may  be  assured  of  a 
hearty  welcome,"  and  will  ever  after  carry  with  them 
delightful  memories  of  its  brilliant  sunshine,  exceeding 
beauty,  and  the  large-heartedness  of  its  adopted  sons. 

After  dinner  the  part}-  adjourned  to  the  veranda  when 
Mr.  Gilles  brought  forth  the  best  of  cigars,  and  while  they 
smoked  these,  and  sipped  their  coffee,  they  talked  of  trade 
matters,  and  the  affairs  of  the  settlement. 

Old  Calabar  has  not  yet  been  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a 
colony,  but  is  simply  a  trade  settlement  under  the  protection 
of  England.  It  has  recently  become  the  residence  of  a 
British   consul,  who  rules  in  affairs  relating  to  trade  with 

123 


OLD    CALABAR. 

the  assistance  of  a  council  composed  of  the  leading  traders. 
The  natives  are  allowed  to  manage  their  own  affairs  so  long 
as  they  in  no  way  interfere  with  trade,  nor  the  interests  of 
the  English  residents.  For  a  mere  trading  settlement  this 
is  the  best  arrangement  that  can  be  made  ;  the  natives 
understand  it,  and  any  difficulties  that  may  arise  are  easily 
and  speedily  settled. 

The  traders  of  Old  Calabar  have  adoped  the  very 
sensible  idea  of  remaining  near  the  sea,  and  allowing  the 
native  people  to  bring  the  produce  to  them  ;  the  consequence 
is  that  their  business  is  prosperous,  for  they  have  no  expense 
except  those  of  the  one  factory,  and  they  find  they  get  as 
much  or  more  than  if  they  established  branch  factories  up 
the  river.  The  experience  of  the  traders  seems  to  be  that 
the  natives  of  any  given  section,  if  left  to  themselves,  will 
only  gather  a  certain  amount  of  produce.  Leave  them  to 
themselves  and  they  will  gather  this  amount  and  bring  it  to 
the  trader  ;  go  after  them  and  offer  inducements  either  in 
price  or  otherwise,  and  they  will  gather  LESS  rather  than 
more  ;  therefore  in  those  rivers,  like  the  Ogowe,  where 
trade  has  been  followed  up,  the  aggregate  of  shipments  has 
declined,  while  in  those  rivers  where  trade  has  remained  at 
the  sea-coast  settlements  the  amount  of  produce  shipped  is 
quite  uniform.  Consequently  those  traders  who  want  the 
old  state  of  affairs  to  continue  are  opposed  to  any  change  ; 
they  do  not  approve  of  steamship  lines,  they  are  opposed  to 
cables,  in  fact  they  are  opposed  to  progress  in  any  direction, 
for  progress  means  change,  and  change  is  what  they  do  not 
want,  for  things  are  good  enough  for  them  as  the}'  are. 
These  men  are  true  conservatives,  and  such  are  the  Old 
Calabar  traders  ;  they  have  a  good  thing,  and  they  know 
it ;  they  are  making  money  and  they  do  not  wish  anything 
to  disturb  the  easy  flow  of  affairs  in  the  present  channel, 
for  a  change  might  benefit  others  more  than  themselves. 
Unfortunately  for  these  gentlemen  the  drift  of  the  times  is 

124 


OLD    CALABAR. 

against  them.  Material  progress  is  the  ruling  spirit  through- 
out the  earth,  and  Africa  must  come  under  its  influence 
also — indeed  it  is  already  affected  by  it.  It  is  preposterous 
to  suppose  that  a  vast  continent  shall  continue  to  exist 
simply  to  support  a  little  trade  in  forest  products.  The 
great  family  of  mankind  need  it  for  far  greater  and  nobler 
purposes.  The  rapidly  increasing  population  of  the  earth 
must  have  it  for  homes,  and  where  one  man  now  makes  a 
living  from  it  by  trade,  a  thousand  must  soon  get  a  living 
from  its  rich  soil,  and  the  manufactures  and  other  industries 
that  will  spring  up  where  there  is  a  large  population.  Some 
of  the  traders  already  see  that  this  change  is  inevitable,  and 
while  they  regret  it,  they  yet  watch  its  advent  with  keen 
interest  so  that  the}-  may  adapt  themselves  to  it,  and  reap 
as  many  advantages  as  possible  from  being  first  on  the 
ground.  Among  these  gentlemen  is  Mr.  James  Lyon,  a 
canny  little  Scotsman,  who  has  made  a  journey  to  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Old  Calabar  river  and  taken  some  photo- 
graphs, one  or  two  of  which  will  appear  in  this  volume. 

The  little  company  had  not  yet  finished  its  first  cigar 
before  Mr.  King  declared  it  to  be  his  opinion  that  a  railway 
from  Old  Calabar  to  Lake  Tchad  would  not  only  open  up 
the  most  valuable  portion  of  the  Soudan,  but  could  be  made 
to  pay  almost  from  the  very  beginning.  "  In  the  first 
place,"  said  he,  "see  how  easy  it  would  be  to  build  such  a 
road.  Here  we  have  in  this  river  a  harbor  alreadv  formed  ; 
it  will  be  a  simple  and  easy  matter  to  build  terminal 
facilities ;  then  the  route  up  the  river  is  an  easy  one  and 
presents  no  engineering  difficulties.  Why,"  exclaimed  he, 
growing  enthusiastic,  "  the  very  continent  was  built  to  afford 
an  easy  route  for  this  railway,  for  look,  the  Kong  mountains 
end  here  in  low  foothills,  and  the  Cameroons  range  begins 
sixty  miles  south  of  here,  and  runs  in  an  easterly  direction 
so  as  to  keep  out  of  the  way  !  Talk  about  your  open  doors, 
what  wider  door  do  you  want  than  this?     Moreover,  Lake.- 

125 


OLD    CALABAR. 

Tchad  drains  a  large  area  of  country  ;  put  small  steamers  on 
it  and  they  will  navigate  its  streams  and  bring  freight  to  the 
railway  pier,  where  it  can  be  brought  down  to  this  port  and 
loaded  direct  into  the  steamers.  I  never  saw  such  a  fine 
chance  for  investment  in  my  life." 

"  Who  is  going  to  produce  all  this  freight  you  speak 
of?"  inquired  Mr.  Burn.  "Long  before  the  railway  is 
finished,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "  there  will  be  large  industrial 
companies  at  work  cultivating  the  soil,  cutting  the  forests, 
and  mining  the  ores  of  this  rich  region  ;  their  supplies  will 
make  the  up  freight  and  the  lumber,  ores,  rice,  cotton, 
sugar,  tobacco  and  coffee  will  make  the  down  freight,  to  say 
nothing  of  oil,  kernels,  rubber  and  other  forest  produce. 
Cattle,  hogs,  sheep  and  other  meats  will  soon  be  sent  down 
in  considerable  quantities  to  supply  the  coast  markets,  and 
if  coal  should  be  found  it  would  of  itself  supply  a  large 
tonnage." 

"  You  speak  of  oil  and  kernels,"  interrupted  Mr. 
Hartley,  "  but  you  know  quite  well  that  our  supplies  come 
from  a  narrow  strip  of  country  near  the  sea." 

"  That  is  true,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "  but  the  oil  palm 
flourishes  on  the  low  lands  near  the  lake,  and  there  is 
nothing  to  hinder  large  plantations  of  it  being  set  out  in  all 
sections  adapted  to  it.  Then  there  is  the  sage-palm  that 
might  be  grown  in  any  desired  quantity ;  moreover,  it  is 
not  necessary  to  bring  all  the  freight  from  Lake  Tchad,  for 
a  large  portion  will  come  from  local  points  along  the  line. 
Such  railways  extend  in  all  directions  across  India,  and 
they  are  found  to  pay  well  in  Java  ;  why  not  here?  " 

"  How  long  would  such  a  line  of  railway  be,  do  you 
suppose  ?  "  inquired  Mr.  Schiff. 

"About  six  hundred  miles,"  answered  Mr.  King, 
"  which  in  America  we  would  call  a  comparative  short  line. 
We  have  in  our  country  single  companies  that  control  ten 
times  that  length  of  track,  and  if  we  should  build  a  new 

126 


OLD    CALABAR. 

road  of  no  more  than  this  length,  it  would  be  looked  upon 
as  a  matter  of  only  local  interest.  There  arc  no  serious 
engineering  difficulties  to  be  encountered  as  Mr.  Lyon  can 
tell  you,  for  he  has  been  over  a  part  of  the  route." 

"  I  see  no  physical  reason,"  said  Mr.  Lyon,  "  why  the 
line  would  not  be  of  easy  construction  ;  there  will  be  a  little 
rock-cutting  among  the  hills,  but  the  stone  will  be  needed 
for  culverts  and  abutments  for  bridges,  and  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  way  is  through  forests  where  cross-ties  will 
be  easily  obtained.  So  far  as  I  can  see  the  road  will  be  a 
comparatively  easy  one  to  build,  and  while  it  will  in  a 
measure  break  up  the  present  course  of  our  trade,  yet  it 
must  create  a  large  demand  for  many  kinds  of  goods,  which 
we,  being  in  the  trade,  will  be  able  to  supply,  and  of  course, 
to  our  profit.  For  my  own  part,  I  say  let  the  railway 
come." 

"  Where  will  you  get  your  labor  ? "  inquired  Mr. 
Holmes. 

"  The  country  will  furnish  a  part  of  it,"  replied  Mr. 
King,  "  and  the  rest  can  be  imported.  Coolies  can  always 
be  had  from  Canton,  and  when  their  work  on  the  railway 
is  done,  they  will  almost  certainly  be  willing  to  settle  down 
along  the  line  of  the  road  and  become  citizens  of  the  new 
state.  The  same  is  true  of  the  Italians  ;  I  have  no  doubt 
many  thousands  of  them  could  be  gotten  without  difficulty, 
and  as  they  are  accustomed  to  a  warm  country,  they  will 
make  good  colonists.  I  think  there  will  be  no  trouble 
about  the  labor  supply,  for  there  are  always  plenty  of 
people  ready  to  go  to  a  new  country  for  the  sake  of  the 
novelty  of  the  thing." 

"  So  you  think,"  said  Mr.  Gilles,  "  that  this  line  would 
pay  ?  " 

"  I  do  most  certainly  think  so,"  replied  Mr.  King,  ll  I 
have  studied  the  African  problem  carefully,  and  I  pin  my 
faith  strongly  on  this  very  line  o£  railway.     Now-  look  at 

127 


OLD    CALABAR. 

it.  It  is  under  English  protection,  the  most  liberal  govern- 
ment towards  its  colonies  in  the  world.  It  has  good  and 
inexpensive  terminal  advantages.  It  runs  through  one  of 
the  richest  countries  in  the  world.  There  are  no  engineer- 
ing difficulties,  and  it  will  not  be  difficult  to  get  valuable 
land  grants,  such  as  were  given  our  Pacific  lines.  These 
lands,  by  the  way,  will  almost  pay  for  the  construction  of 
the  road.  Then  it  will  open  up  to  settlement  a  most 
valuable  section  of  the  Soudan,  and  will  tap  the  trade  of 
Central  Africa.  If  you  will  examine  a  reliable  map  you 
will  find  that  the  streams  that  drain  the  northern  slope  of 
the  Cameroons  range,  flow  into  Lake  Tchad  ;  so  too,  the 
streams  that  drain  the  country  west  of  the  Nyanza  lakes 
flow  into  Lake  Tchad.  Thus  the  Lake  receives  the  tribu- 
taries of  a  large  and  valuable  section  of  country,  and  the 
railway  will  be  the  means  of  communication  with  the  sea." 

"  Do  you  think,"  inquired  Mr.  Alexander,  "  that  this 
section  of  country  is  fitted  for  white  colonists?" 

"  I  most  surely  do,"  replied  Mr.  King.  "  Why  should 
it  not  be  ?  America  throughout  its  entire  length  is  peopled 
with  our  race.  India  is  in  the  same  latitude,  and  you  know 
how  many  are  living  there.  Java  and  Ceylon  are  nearer 
the  equator,  and  they  not  only  have  a  large  population  of 
Europeans,  but  they  find  the  climate  well  suited  to  them. 
Then  look  on  this  piazza  ;  if  we  can  live  here,  why  cannot 
they  ?  We  have  each  of  us  spent  from  ten  to  twenty  years 
in  this  land,  and  as  far  as  I  can  see  we  are  none  the  worse 
for  it.  Certain  it  is  that  many  of  our  friends  who  have 
remained  at  home  have  died,  while  we  who  have  come  to 
this  new  country  are  hale  and  hearty ;  I  see  no  reason  why 
this  country,  especially  the  hills  and  the  higher  plateaus, 
should  not  support  a  large  Anglo-Saxon  population." 

"  But  how  about  the  fever?  "  inquired  Mr.  Schiff. 

"Judging  from  the  way  you  enjoy  Mr.  Holmes'  cock- 
tails," replied  Mr.  King,  "  it  don't  seem  to  me  the  fever  has 


OLD    CALABAR. 

hurt  you  much.  But  I  must  say  I  look  upon  the  fever  as  a 
good  thing,  Tor  if  it  was  not  for  that  we  should  live  forever. 
A  country  that  has  no  consumption,  pneumonia,  diphtheria, 
typhoid  or  scarlet  fever,  cancer  and  a  few  more  things, 
needs  something  to  thin  out  the  population  a  little  or  else 
it  would  become  necessary  to  shoot  a  man  when  you  wanted 
a  funeral.  Does  the  fever  affect  the  natives  of  this  country  ? 
Is  it  any  more  severe  than  it  is  in  Cuba,  or  even  our  own 
Gulf  States  when  northerners  go  down  there  ?  Is  it  any 
worse  than  it  is  in  Arkansas,  or  Central  America,  or  Rio 
Janeiro  ?  Yet  hosts  of  our  own  people  live  there,  and  so 
may  they  here.  I  grant  you  that  in  every  new  country  the 
death  rate  is  higher  than  in  older  communities,  and  so  it 
will  doubtless  be  here  ;  but  that  cannot  be  helped.  Why 
when  Illinois  was  first  settled  the  malaria  was  so  bad  it  was 
thought  the  state  must  remain  a  wilderness,  and  now  it 
contains  a  city  that  in  another  century  will  have  ten  million 
of  inhabitants  and  will  be  the  greatest  city  on  earth.  I  am 
forty  years  old  now,  and  if  I  live  to  be  an  old  man,  I  expect 
to  see  a  city  on  Lake  Tchad  almost  equal  to  what  Chicago 
is  to-day." 

"Things  will  have  to  change  very  much  if  you  do," 
exclaimed  Mr.  Hartley.  "  That  is  just  what  they  will," 
asserted  Mr.  King.  "  The  world  has  now  entered  upon  an 
era  of  development,  and  the  state  of  affairs  in  new  countries 
like  this  will  change  very  rapidly.  If  this  railway  were 
built  with  the  same  energy  as  our  own  Pacific  roads  (and 
the  difficulties  are  no  greater),  it  could  be  finished  in  from 
three  to  four  years,  and  it  would  work  a  complete  revolution 
in  trade,  and  all  affairs  of  the  country.  Colonists  would 
come  out  here  by  the  thousand,  instead  of  going  to  Brazil 
as  they  are  now  doing,  and  large  companies  would  soon 
convert  the  lowlands  into  rice,  sugar  and  tobacco  estates." 

"  How  long  would  it  take  vessels  of  the  City  of  Paris 
type  to  run  out  here?"  inquired  Mr.  Alexander. 

ix  129 


OLD    CALABAR. 

"  I  am  not  quite  sure,"  replied  Captain  Thompson, 
"  whether  the  City  of  Paris  could  come  up  the  river,  but  if 
she  could,  I  think  it  would  take  nearly  or  quite  nine  days. 
If  vessels  of  the  size  and  power  of  the  City  of  Paris  were 
built  with  flat  bottoms,  they  could  then  cross  the  bar,  and 
might  arrive  here  the  ninth  day." 

"  That  is  only  half  the  time  required  for  the  voyage  to 
Bombay,"  said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  and  less  than  half  the  time 
to  Calcutta,  so  that  this  colon}-  would  be  only  half  as  far 
from  England  as  India  is.  Moreover  it  has  the  advantage 
of  a  broad  highway  hither,  for  there  are  no  canals  or  narrow 
straits  to  pass  through,  but  the  whole  width  of  the  Atlantic 
ocean  if  necessary." 

"  In  looking  upon  this  country,"  said  Mr.  King,  "  as 
the  future  home  of  millions  of  our  race,  it  should  not  be 
overlooked  that  the  plantain  everywhere  flourishes,  for  it  is 
destined  to  play  an  important  part  in  all  calculations  as  to 
food  supplies.  Humbolt  estimated  that  an  acre  of  plantains 
produced  one  hundred  and  thirty-three  times  as  much 
nourishment  as  an  acre  of  wheat.  Thus  a  family  need  not 
plant  more  than  an  acre  with  this  vegetable  to  have  all  the 
food  it  needs  for  a  year,  and  some  to  sell  besides.  An  acre 
of  ground  in  plantains,  and  another  acre  in  fruit  trees,  such 
as  breadfruit,  oranges,  limes,  pears,  mangosteens  and  guavas, 
with  a  good  sized  vegetable  garden,  would  make  a  living 
for  a  peasant  family,  and  they  could  enjoy  one  of  the  finest 
climates  on  earth,  and  have  as  happy  a  home  as  it  falls  to 
the  lot  of  man  to  enjoy.  If  we  allowed  to  each  family  six 
acres,  including  roads  and  dooryards,  it  would  admit  of  one 
hundred  families  to  the  square  mile,  or  say,  five  hundred 
persons.  This  is  a  dense  population,  and  yet  this  rich  soil 
and  warm  sun  will  easily  support  that  number." 

"  How  many  plantains  do  you  calculate  can  be  produced 
on  an  acre  ?  "  asked  Mr.  Alexander. 


130 


OLD    CALABAR. 

"If  they  were  planted  eight  feet  apart  each  way," 
replied  Mr.  King,  "  there  would  be  six  hundred  and  eighty 
plants  to  the  acre,  and  these  would  average  rather  more 
than  one  bunch  a  year,  so  that  a  family  would  have  more 
than  they  could  eat.  But  in  reckoning  on  the  produce  of 
an  acre  of  plantains  we  must  not  forget  the  value  of  the 
fibre ;  this, when  carefully  extracted  by  the  proper  machinery, 
is  worth  more  than  the  fruit.  The  sale  of  the  stalks  for 
fibre  would  bring  in  a  nice  income  which  would  help 
support  the  family,  or  it  might,  if  necessary,  be  devoted  to 
purchasing  potash  and  nitrates  to  be  used  in  keeping  up  or 
increasing  the  fertility  of  the  land." 

"  I  have  heard  of  this  fibre  before,"  said  Mr.  Gilles, 
"  and  I  do  not  doubt  it  will  yet  bring  more  money  to  the 
country  than  palm  oil  does  now.  It  not  only  makes  good 
paper  stock,  but  the  best  of  it  is  made  into  ropes  and  is  used 
in  many  ways  that  I  do  not  fully  understand." 

"  The  value  of  the  plantain,"  added  Mr.  Lyon,  "  is  not 
fully  appreciated  by  any  of  us  ;  I  do  not  doubt  that  it  will 
become  the  most  valuable  of  all  food  plants  to  man." 

"  I  do  not  see,"  remarked  Mr.  Alexander,  "  why  as  fine 
a  quality  of  tobacco  may  not  be  raised  in  the  Soudan,  as  is 
now  grown  in  Cuba  ;  both  countries  are  in  the  same  latitude, 
and  the  soil  is  as  rich  and  all  the  conditions  appear  to  be 
favorable." 

"  It  can  be  grown  just  as  well  without  a  doubt," 
responded  Mr.  King.  "  On  the  coast,  a  few  miles  north  of 
Batanga,  a  German  has  been  raising  tobacco  for  several 
years.  It  is  of  sufficiently  fine  quality  to  bring  a  dollar  a 
pound  in  the  Hamburg  market.  As  something  like  four 
hundred  pounds  can  be  grown  to  the  acre,  it  is  easy  to  see 
that  the  crop  is  a  most  valuable  one.  But  there  is  no  need 
of  exporting  it  in  the  leaf,  for  it  can  as  well  be  made  into 
cigars  here,  and  a  large  market  would  be  available  right  on 


'3' 


OLD    CALABAR. 

the  Coast.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  Cuban  crop  is 
made  up  on  the  island,  and  so  it  might  just  as  well  be  here." 

"  The  natives  of  the  Ogowe,"  said  Mr.  Schiff,  "  raise 
considerable  tobacco,  which  they  cure  and  make  into  long 
braids.  We  often  buy  it  for  smoking.  It  has  a  peculiar 
flavor,  quite  different  from  the  American  article.  I  have 
sent  some  of  it  to  my  friends  in  Germany,  and  they  say 
they  like  it  very  much.  I  do  not  know  much  about  farm- 
ing, but  I  know  enough  to  feel  sure  that  tobacco  of  fine 
quality  could  be  grown  in  any  quantity  desired.  For  im- 
part I  should  like  to  see  these  niggers  set  to  work  in  the 
tobacco  and  cane  fields,  where  they  belong  ;  they  have 
run  wild  long  enough." 

This  remark  brought  on  an  animated  discussion  of  the 
labor  question,  and  it  was  fully  agreed  that  the  best  good 
of  the  country,  and  the  only  hope  of  the  African  race,  lay 
in  some  sort  of  compulsory  labor,  for  if  left  to  themselves, 
they  will  surely  be  destroyed  by  rum,  venereal  diseases  and 
other  causes.  There  is  not  a  coast  port,  nor  any  con- 
siderable trading  village  where  this  process  is  not  now 
going  on.  The  native  population  in  many  coast  ports  is 
only  kept  up,  as  it  is  in  Paris,  by  continued  accessions 
from  the  Provinces.  The  American  Indians,  the  Sand- 
wich Islanders,  and  many  other  nations,  show  plainly  what 
will  happen  when  a  savage  race  is  brought  into  contact 
with  civilization.  The  instincts  of  a  savage  lead  him  to 
indulge  in  the  evil  which  civilization  offers,  and  to  refuse 
the  good.  Nor  is  it  sufficient  to  say  "  give  them  the 
Gospel."  The  Sandwich  Islanders  had  the  Gospel,  as  will 
never  be  true  of  the  negro,  and  yet  they  are  rapidly  dying 
out.  On  the  other  hand  the  negro  increased  when  set  to 
work  in  America,  even  under  the  iniquitous  system  of 
slavery.  It  is  perfectly  certain  that  in  daily  toil  is  the 
corrective  to  the  evils  which  civilization  presents  to  the 
savage  ;  not  slavery,  but  enforced  industry,  paid  for  at  its 

T32 


OLD   CALABAR. 

full  market  value.  In  such  a  community  the  Gospel  will 
be  welcomed,  and  will  be  effective  upon  men's  minds. 
Such  gross  evils  as  intoxication  and  licentiousness  must  be 
controlled  by  law,  and  then  in  time  the  Negro  race,  like  the 
Anglo-Saxon,  will  be  able  to  stand  alone.  The  Negro  race 
is  now  able  to  stand  alone  in  the  Southern  States  of 
America.  It  is  not  a  bright  and  shining  example  we 
admit  ;  but  it  exists  and  increases  ;  indeed,  it  is  now 
increasing  faster  than  the  whites.  If  the  Indians  had  been 
set  to  work  and  kept  sober,  the  same  would  now  be  true  of 
them,  but  every  one  knows  the}'  are  destined  soon  to  pass 
from  the  earth.  Let  the  nations  of  the  earth  take  warning, 
and  before  it  is  too  late,  enact  such  measures  as  will  lead 
to  preserve  the  African  race,  and  at  the  same  time  make  it 
valuable  in  developing  the  beautiful  and  fertile  continent 
that  God  has  given  them.  It  will  be  a  thousand  pities  if 
affairs  are  allowed  to  drift  along  carelessly  until  it  is  too 
late  to  save  this  valuable  race  from  destruction.  Con- 
gresses of  various  kinds,  passing  resolutions,  and  then 
going  home  about  their  business,  a  species  of  moral  amuse- 
ment which  the  National  Governments  are  indulging  in, 
will  never  do  any  good.  What  effect  will  a  "  Congress  " 
in  Brussels  or  Berlin  have  on  the  distant  African  trader  ? 
It  will  probably  make  him  laugh.  The  only  way  to 
govern  Africa  is  to  set  up  on  African  soil  a  good,  wise, 
stable  government,  with  one  of  the  first-class  nations  at 
its  back.  Let  regular  British,  American  or  German 
colonies  be  formed,  and  let  the  colonial  government  be 
administered  for  the  good  of  Africa,  and  not  of  the  mother 
country.  The  curse  of  most  colonial  governments  in  the 
tropics  has  been  that  these  colonies  were  managed  to  bring 
profit  only  to  the  mother  country,  and  not  simply  to  benefit 
the  colonies  themselves.  The  salvation  of  such  colonies  as 
Canada,  Australia,  New  Zealand  and  the  Cape,  has  been 
that  a  large  immigration  from  the  mother  country  has  com- 

'33 


OLD    CALABAR. 

pelled  the  administration  of  colonial  affairs  for  the  benefit 
of  the  colonies.  Give  Africa  a  fair  chance,  especially  the 
Sondan,  and  it  will  not  be  long  before  immigration  will  flow 
thither,  and  a  vast  Anglo-Saxon  nation  will  eventually  be 
formed  that  will  rival  in  power  and  influence  the  United 
States  of  America. 

The  party  broke  up  at  eleven  o'clock,  and  Captain 
Thompson  took  his  passengers  to  the  Kisanga.  It  was  a 
lovely  night.  The  stars  were  shining  brightly  and  the 
palm  fronds  rustled  gently  in  the  evening  breeze,  while  the 
native  town  appeared  in  the  moonlight  like  a  broad  succes- 
sion of  roofs,  from  under  which  flashed  here  and  there  the 
light  from  lamps  and  torches,  showing  that  the  people  were 
not  vet  asleep.  As  the  boat  came  alongside  the  steamer 
thev  found  the  quartermaster  on  watch  was  at  the  foot  of 
the  ladder  to  welcome  them,  and  it  was  not  long  before 
each  one  was  in  his  room,  and  "  turned  in  "  for  the  night." 

By  sunrise  the  next  morning  Mr.  Lyon's  boat  was 
alongside,  and  after  a  cup  of  black  coffee,  and  a  bit  of  toast 
and  jam,  the  four  passengers  got  in  and  were  rowed  rapidly 
up  the  river.  East  India  bamboos  have  been  planted  upon 
hillsides,  and  these  great  fronds,  heavy  with  dew,  drooped 
toward  the  river  like  great  ostrich  plumes  nodding  a 
o-racious  welcome  to  our  friends  as  they  passed.  Mr.  Lyon 
met  them  at  the  top  of  the  stairway  that  leads  up  at  the 
end  of  the  pier,  and  at  once  showed  them  over  his  well 
arranged  establishment. 

Mr.  Lyon's  place  is  the  farthest  up  the  river  of  any  of 
the  factories.  It  is  half  way  round  the  bend,  so  that  an 
excellent  view  may  be  had  of  the  river,  the  shipping,  the 
foreign  settlement,  and  in  the  far  distance  the  native  town 
and  the  Scotch  Mission  on  the  top  of  the  hill.  There  is  a 
large  town  on  the  hillside  behind  the  factory,  but  it  is  quite 
hidden  from  sight  by  the  dense  foliage. 


i34 


OLD    CALABAR. 

Two  piers  have  been  built  out  into  the  river,  one  of 
which  is  covered  its  entire  length,  and  the  other  is  open. 
There  is  a  heavy  crane  at  the  end  of  each  to  raise  and 
lower  cargo  from  the  boats  and  canoes.  The  covered  pier 
is  a  busy  place,  for  here  the  oil  is  raised  from  the  canoes  of 
the  native  traders,  sampled,  emptied  into  great  cauldrons, 
where  it  is  heated  by  steam,  run  into  new  casks,  and  pre- 
pared for  shipment.  A  railway  track  runs  from  the  end  of 
the  pier  to  the  warehouses  in  the  yard,  and  heavy  beams 
inside  the  rails  are  arranged  for  rolling  the  great  casks  of 
oil  upon,  so  that  they  are  removed  without  an}-  trouble. 
The  platform  cars  on  the  railway  are  used  to  bring  sacks 
of  kernels  or  billets  of  ebony  to  the  end  of  the  pier,  where 
they  are  lowered  into  boats  for  shipment,  and  for  transport- 
ing salt  and  other  merchandise  to  the  various  storehouses. 
When  kernels  are  brought  they  are  measured  in  tubs  and 
thrown  into  a  bin,  where  an  endless  belt  with  tin  buckets 
affixed  to  it  carries  the  kernels  to  a  higher  bin,  from  which 
they  descend  through  a  chute  to  where  arrangements  are 
made  for  bagging  them  ;  they  are  then  thrown  upon  the 
platform  car  and  rolled  away  to  the  storehouses  to  await 
shipment.  The  power  to  run  this  belt,  and  also  the  steam 
to  boil  the  oil  is  furnished  by  an  upright,  stationary  boiler 
and  engine.  This  engine  also  saws  wood,  pumps  water, 
turns  a  grindstone  and  makes  itself  generally  useful. 
When  oil  or  kernels  are  purchased  on  the  pier,  the  seller 
receives  a  due-bill  for  the  amount  of  the  purchase,  which 
he  can  at  once  present  in  the  shop  and  receive  the  goods 
therefor  ;  or,  he  can  keep  it  until  such  time  as  suits  his 
convenience  to  take  his  pay.  Usually  he  does  not  care  to 
take  any  goods  until  he  is  ready  for  a  journey  up  river; 
then  he  calls  with  his  canoes,  loads  in  rum,  tobacco,  cloth, 
iron  pots,  dishes,  soap,  salt  and  other  articles,  and  goes  up 
to  the  up-river  markets,  where  he  buys  oil  from  the  bush- 
men  and  brings  it  down  to  sell  again. 

i35 


OLD    CALABAR. 

Besides  this  wholesale  business,  there  is  also  a  retail 
trade,  in  which  the  medium  of  exchange  is  small  brass  rods. 
These  rods  are  the  least  profitable  of  all  the  goods  imported, 
and  the  trader  is  glad  to  get  them  back  again  in  exchange 
for  fine  cloths,  caps,  umbrellas,  shirts,  bonnets,  shoes,  fancy 
liquors,  perfumery,  hair  oil,  rice,  codfish,  butter,  tinned 
meat  and  many  other  articles.  In  the  wholesale  trade  a 
certain  proportion  of  each  due-bill  is  paid  in  brass  rods, 
and  those  rods  then  serve  as  the  spending  money  for  the 
native  trader's  family.  Whenever  anything  is  wanted  from 
the  store,  the  women  go  out  shopping  with  a  lot  of  those 
rods  in  their  hands,  much  as  an  American  woman  carries 
her  purse. 

Near  the  shop  door  were  seventeen  hogsheads  of 
American  leaf  tobacco  resting  in  a  row  under  a  shed.  Mr. 
Lyon  informed  his  visitors  that  he  would  probably  dispose 
of  that  amount  in  a  month.  It  seemed  a  pity  that  all  this 
tobacco  should  be  imported  when  every  pound  of  it  might 
be  so  easily  raised  in  the  country.  Indeed  a  large  share  of 
the  cargo  imported  might  even  now  be  produced  in  the 
colony,  as  for  instance  cloth  from  native  cotton,  iron  pots 
from  the  iron  found  in  the  hills,  dishes,  soap,  salt,  rice, 
meat,  etc.  These  and  many  other  articles  might  just  as  well 
be  produced  at  home. 

One  hundred  years  ago  Australia  had  fewer  industries 
than  Africa  has  even  now  ;  to-day  Australia  is  a  great 
nation.  One  hundred  years  ago,  steam  as  a  motive  power 
was  unknown  ;  the  same  is  true  of  electricity  ;  what  Aus- 
tralia and  America  required  one  hundred  years  to  accomplish 
will  occur  in  Africa  within  the  next  quarter  of  a  century. 
There  are  men  now  living  who  will  see  as  large  and 
valuable  manufactories  in  the  Soudan  as  are  to-day  to  be 
found  in  Manchester  and  Sheffield  ;  while  the  advance  in 
real  estate  after  a  few  years  will  exceed  anything  ever 
known  in  the  Western  States  of  America.     India  has  to-day 

136 


OLD   CALABAR. 

ten  thousand  miles  of  railway  ;  build  half  that  length  of 
track  through  the  Soudan,  connecting  with  the  sea  at  Old 
Calabar,  Cape  Coast  and  Sierra  Leone,  and  in  a  few  years 
emigration  to  America  will  entirely  cease,  being  attracted 
by  the  greater  inducements  presented  by  Africa. 

Mr.  Lyon's  establishment  is  a  model  of  neatness  and 
order  ;  everything  had  a  place,  and  everything  was  in  its 
place.  Not  a  loud  word  was  spoken,  but  everything  moved 
along  the  even  tenor  of  its  way  and  every  face  bore  a  con- 
tented and  happy  expression.  The  master's  care  for  his 
men  was  seen  in  the  clean  and  pleasant  quarters  provided 
for  them. 

In  the  back  yard  was  a  fine  poultry  house  and  goat 
house,  and  tanks  of  water  in  which  ducks  could  enjoy 
themselves.  There  were  several  coffee  trees  too  of  the 
Liberian  variety,  loaded  with  berries  of  a  bright  red  color, 
looking  for  all  the  world  like  overgrown  cranberries.  After 
breakfast  they  had  coffee  from  these  same  trees,  which  they 
found  to  be  most  excellent,  far  superior  to  what  usually  is 
offered  for  sale  in  shops  at  home. 

At  breakfast  Mr.  Lyon  proposed  a  row  up  to  Creektown, 
and  at  2  p.  m.  they  started  in  the  gig  with  six  stalwart  Kru- 
boys  at  the  oars.  The  boat  spun  along  at  a  good  rate  and 
the  ride  was  most  enjoyable.  The  distance  is  six  or  eight 
miles,  and  the  time  a  little  over  an  hour.  The  mangroves 
continue  all  the  way,  but  they  are  interspersed  with  palms, 
bamboos,  pandanus  and  other  plants,  thus  relieving  the 
monotony.  All  these  lowlands  would  make  the  best  of  rice 
fields,  and  in  the  hands  of  some  large  company  with  capital 
to  build  the  needed  embankments,  would  be  exceedingly 
profitable.  These  lands  may  now  be  had  for  almost  nothing, 
and  the  rice  would  find  a  ready  sale  on  the  spot  to  con- 
sumers. Sugar-cane  would  also  thrive  with  great  luxuri- 
ance. Creektown,  notwithstanding  its  name,  is  upon  the 
mainland  and  is  a  town  of  several  thousand  people.    There 

i37 


OLD    CALABAR. 

is  here  a  branch  of  the  Scotch  Mission  under  Mr.  Goldie, 
that  has  done  good  work,  having  avoided  the  dissensions 
noticed  at  Dnketown.  A  large  church  has  been  built 
entirely  by  subscriptions  from  the  natives  and  traders.  Mr. 
Goldie  has  lived  at  Creektown  over  thirty  years. 

After  a  short  call  at  his  house,  and  a  stroll  about  the 
town,  our  friends  embarked  and  were  home  again  before 
sundown. 

Captain  Thompson  and  Mr.  Gilles  came  up  to  dinner 
and  a  very  pleasant  evening  was  spent  together.  The  next 
morning  at  early  dawn  the  Kisanga  hove  anchor  and 
steamed  rapidly  down  the  river. 


138 


Chapter  VII 


KAMERUN.   BATANGA,   ELOBY. 


UST  as  the  Kisanga  was  about  to  leave  Old  Calabar 
a  native  canoe  came  alongside  with  some  Kola 
nuts  for  sale.  Our  friends  were  already  on  deck 
sipping  their  coffee,  and  the  sight  of  the  Kola  nuts 
led  to  a  conversation  respecting  their  merits.  These  nuts 
— perhaps  it  would  be  more  proper  to  call  them  beans — 
are  the  product  of  a  very  large  tree  growing  in  the  deep 
forest.  They  are  a  little  larger  than  a  Brazil  nut,  of  a  deep 
pink  color,  contain  no  oil,  and  are  enclosed  in  a  thick  pod 
four  or  five  inches  in  length.  They  are  moderately  bitter, 
and  taste  slightly  like  belladonna.  Chewing  them  causes 
the  gums  and  tongue  to  assume  a  peculiar  redness  which  is 
disagreeable  to  see.  These  nuts  have  the  power  of  pro- 
ducing sleeplessness,  and  of  preventing  bodily  fatigue. 
Three  or  four  of  these  nuts  a  day  will  enable  a  man  to 
endure  severe  exertion,  without  food,  and  without  experi- 
encing any  evil  after  effects  ;  and  this  may  be  continued  for 
several  days  in  succession.  Two  or  three  of  these  beans 
eaten  in  the  afternoon  will  enable  the  student  to  work  all 
night,  and  not  feel  any  evil  effect  at  the  time,  or  afterward. 
They  do  not  stupify  the  senses  like  opium,  nor  do  they 
exhilerate  like  alcohol  ;  they  produce  no  sensible  effect  of 

139 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBV. 

which  the  eater  is  conscious ;  all  he  knows  is  that  he  does 
not  get  tired,  but  can  keep  right  on  at  his  work  as  if  he 
were  freed  from  the  limitations  and  necessities  of  this 
earthly  existence.  These  beans  have  been  taken  in  limited 
quantities  to  England  and  a  kind  of  chocolate  made  from 
them  which  is  said  to  produce  very  much  the  same  effect 
that  has  just  been  described.  A  large  English  firm  recently 
sent  circulars  to  all  the  coast  ports  offering  to  take  at  a  good 
price  all  the  beans  that  might  be  shipped  ;  but  a  difficulty 
was  experienced  in  getting  the  beans  to  England  in  good 
condition.  The  best  plan  would  be  to  manufacture  them 
into  chocolate,  or  any  other  desired  form,  upon  the  Coast, 
and  this  manufacture  might  be  carried  on  at  several  different 
ports.  There  is  no  doubt  that  this  might  form  a  valuable 
ingredient  in  medicine  that  would  have  a  wide  sale  as  soon 
as  its  wonderful  properties  were  known. 

At  3  p.  m.  the  Kisanga  arrived  at  Victoria  at  the  foot 
of  Mt.  Albert  of  the  Cameroons  range.  This  mountain 
rises  from  the  sea  to  a  height  of  13,800  feet  and  its  bold 
form  stands  outlined  against  the  sky.  It  is  clothed  with  a 
dense  forest  growth,  and  as  the  afternoon  sun  shines  upon 
it,  it  presents  a  striking  and  beautiful  appearance.  Sixteen 
years  ago  a  Mr.  Thompson  attempted  to  establish  a  sani- 
tarium far  up  the  side  of  this  mountain,  but  his  means  were 
not  sufficient  to  enable  him  to  carry  the  project  to  comple- 
tion. No  finer  location  for  a  sanitarium  could  be  desired. 
The  Bay  of  Victoria  is  one  of  the  finest  harbors  to  be  found 
on  the  Coast,  and  the  situation  is  about  midway  between 
the  north  and  the  south,  so  as  to  be  easily  accessible  from 
either  direction.  A  narrow  gauge  railway  up  the  mountain 
side  would  not  be  very  expensive,  and  would  give  the 
invalid  or  pleasure  seeker  an  opporUmity  to  choose  any 
climate  that  suited  him  best.  It  would  almost  seem  as  if 
this  mountain  had  been  placed  here  for  this  express  purpose. 


140 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

The  Bay  is  full  of  beautiful  islands  which  rise  rather 
abruptly  from  the  water,  and  are  covered  with  a  solid  mass 
of  vegetation  of  the  most  brilliant  green,  making  them 
appear  like  gigantic  emeralds  set  upon  the  bosom  of  the 
sea.  Victoria  is  exceedingly  rich  in  tropical  vegetation. 
The  heavy  forests  on  the  mountain  side  will  be  the  source 
of  large  revenue,  as  all  lumber  will  meet  with  a  readv 
market.  If  a  railway  were  built  upon  the  mountain  side  as 
suggested,  it  would  do  a  large  business  in  bringing  this 
lumber  down  to  the  port  of  Victoria,  and  as  the  upper 
slopes  of  the  mountain  would  be  well  fitted  for  European 
colonists,  it  would  soon  have  all  the  traffic  it  could  well 
attend  to.  These  upper  slopes  would  be  excellent  for  coffee, 
tea,  oranges,  figs,  and  man}-  other  fruits,  as  well  as  vegetable 
gardens  and  truck  farms. 

The  Cameroons  range  extends  in  a  northeasterlv 
direction  and  forms  the  watershed  which  divides  the  streams 
that  flow  into  Lake  Tchad  from  the  tributaries  of  the 
Congo.  These  mountains  lie  within  the  German  territory 
which  extends  from  the  Rio  del  Ray  on  the  north,  to  the 
Campo  river  on  the  south.  This  region,  owing  to  its 
dense  forests,  may  not  be  developed  so  rapidly  as  the 
Soudan,  but  it  is  rich  and  valuable,  and  the  patient,  indus- 
trious Germans  will  yet  make  it  a  very  garden  of  fertility 
and  beauty. 

As  Kamerun  was  not  very  far  away,  and  the  river  must 
be  entered  by  daylight,  Captain  Thompson  determined  to 
remain  at  anchor  until  midnight  and  with  the  change  of 
the  watch  steam  "  slow,"  which  would  bring  him  to  the 
river  by  dawn.  This  gave  our  friends  a  quiet  evening  in 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  harbors  of  the  world  ;  an  evening 
they  fully  enjoyed.  Sitting  upon  the  deck  in  the  very 
shadow  of  the  mountains,  the  conversation  naturally  turned 
upon  the  attractions  of  Mt.  Albert  and  the  other  peaks  of 
the  Cameroons  range. 

141 


KAMERUX,    BATAXGA,    ELOBY. 

"  I  have  been  thinking,"  said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  of  the 
vast  water-power  afforded  by  the  tropic  rains  falling  upon 
these  mountains.  Why  there  is  power  enough  here  to  run 
all  the  mills  in  Manchester  and  plenty  to  spare.  The 
amount  of  power  that  might  be  utilized  from  these  streams 
that  come  down  from  the  heights  to  the  sea,  is  something 
enormous." 

"  Yes,"  responded  Mr.  King,  "  the  largest  quartz  mill 
in  the  world  is  that  of  the  Treadwell  mine  in  Alaska.  The 
motive  power  is  supplied  by  one  seven-foot  turbine  wheel, 
which  runs  two  hundred  and  fifty  stamps,  ninety-six  con- 
csntrators,  twelve  ore  crushers,  etc.,  exerting  a  power  equal 
to  five  hundred  horses.  The  wheel  operates  under  a  pressure 
of  four  hundred  feet,  making  two  hundred  and  thirty-five 
revolutions  and  using  six  hundred  and  thirty  cubic  feet  of 
water  per  minute.  The  nozzle  is  three  and  one  third 
inches  in  diameter.  With  a  four-inch  nozzle  this  wheel 
will  work  up  to  seven  hundred  and  thirty  horse  power. 
Now  think  of  what  might  be  possible  in  such  a  range  of 
mountains  with  a  frequent  and  heavy  rainfall.  In  addition 
to  the  factories  Mr.  Alexander  has  suggested,  what  is  to 
hinder  some  of  these  streams  running  heavy  dynamos  and 
thus  generating  sufficient  power  to  run  the  trains  on  the 
railway  ?  For  my  part,  I  can  see  no  good  reason  why  this 
should  not  be  done." 

"  And  not  these  mountains  alone,"  added  Mr.  Sinclair, 
"  but  think  of  what  might  be  done  in  the  Kong  mountains 
as  well.  Why  our  generation  does  not  half  realize  what  is 
possible  to  it." 

"  I  would  not  wonder,"  declared  Captain  Thompson, 
"  if  in  the  next  ten  years  saw-mills  were  established  in 
these  forests,  and  who  knows  but  we  might  get  considerable 
local  freight  to  neighboring  ports  as  we  pass  to  and  fro  ?  " 

"  It  could  scarcely  be  done  without  the  railway," 
responded  Mr.  King,   "  and  I  think  a  company  might  now 

142 


KAMERUN,    BATAXGA,    ELOBV. 

be  formed  in  London  to  build  it,  for  it  would  be  certain  to 
be  a  good  investment." 

"  This  mountain,"  said  Mr.  Alexander,  "  is  a  volcano, 
and  as  grapes  always  do  well  in  volcanic  soil,  I  should  not 
be  surprised  if  the  vine  would  flourish  on  the  upper  slopes 
of  the  mountain.  If  it  would,  the  grapes  could  all  be  sold 
fresh  as  table  grapes,  either  to  the  fashionable  hotels  on  the 
mountain,  or  else  at  the  various  coast  ports  near  by." 

The  conversation  continued  until  a  late  hour,  for  the 
presence  of  lofty  mountains  is  inspiring,  and  the  possibili- 
ties of  such  mountains  as  those  of  the  Cameroons  rano-e, 
with  a  tropic  sun,  rich  soil,  and  copious  rainfall,  is  indeed, 
very  great  ;  and  when  such  mountains  rise  directlv  from 
the  sea,  with  a  slendid  harbor  at  their  base,  it  is  a  combina- 
tion of  fortunate  circumstances  over  which  any  one  might 
well  grow  enthusiastic.  The  advantages  offered  by  the 
Cameroons  range  are  far  greater  than  those  of  Kandv,  the 
fashionable  mountain  resort  of  Ceylon. 

At  sunrise  next  morning  the  Kisanga  entered  the 
Kamerun  river,  and  at  nine  o'clock  came  to  anchor  near 
the  landing  of  the  Basle  Mission.  The  Kamerun  river  is 
not  a  long  one,  but  it  is  wide  in  the  tide-water  region. 
Like  the  Niger  it  has  a  large  delta  and  inside  navigation 
to  the  foot  of  Mt.  Albert  on  the  north,  and  almost  to 
Malemba  on  the  south.  This  large  delta,  like  that  of  ( )1<1 
Calabar,  will  be  extremly  valuable  in  the  near  future  for 
rice  and  cane  fields.  The  soil  is  inexhaustible,  and  as  it 
can  be  flooded  at  any  time,  new  layers  of  fertility  can  be 
added  yearly,  as  is  true  of  the  lands  bordering  the  Nile. 

The  Kamerun  river  drains  the  southern  slope  of  the 
Cameroons  range,  and  is  composed  of  five  branches  which 
unite  to  form  this  important  river  ;  each  of  these  tribu- 
taries is  navigable  for  the  canoes  and  flat-bottomed  boats  to 
the  very  foot  of  the  mountains  ;  thus  the  oil  and  kernels  of 

143 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

a  considerable  region  are  brought  down  to  Kamerun,  which 
makes  that  town  a  valuable  trade  centre. 

Kamerun  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  twenty 
miles  from  the  sea,  on  the  first  solid  land  above  the  man- 
groves. It  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  narrow 
creek  navigable  for  canoes.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  as  at  Duketown,  is  a  low  island  covered  with  man- 
groves. The  site  of  the  town  consists  of  a  clay  cliff  rising 
some  thirty  or  forty  feet  from  the  water,  and  sloping  very 
gradually  back  to  the  creek  that  separates  it  from  the  main- 
land, which  is  some  three  miles  away.  The  government 
buildings,  mission  and  native  town  is  built  on  this  level 
plateau,  but  the  factories  belonging  to  the  traders  are  built 
under  the  hill  along  the  river's  edge,  for  convenience  in 
receiving  cargo  and  produce,  for  the  river  is  the  highway 
of  commerce  and  travel. 

The  appearance  of  the  town  and  surrounding  country 
is  pleasing,  palms  predominating  except  upon  the  low 
island  opposite  the  town.  The  oil  palms  are  here  finer 
and  more  luxuriant  than  at  any  other  town  on  the  Coast, 
although  some  settlements  on  the  rivers  in  the  interior  are 
equal  to  Kamerun  in  this  respect.  There  are  a  number  of 
good  buildings  at  Kamerun,  and  these  have  such  a  fine 
setting  in  the  midst  of  abundant  tropical  foliage,  that  the 
effect  is  attractive  and  pleasing. 

Kamerun  is  the  seat  of  the  German  power  in  Western 
Africa,  and  although  it  is  but  six  years  since  they  took 
possession  of  it,  yet  they  have  exhibited  so  much  energy 
that  an  improvement  has  already  taken  place,  not  only  in 
Kamerun,  but  also  throughout  the  colony.  This  territory 
is  destined  to  become  a  very  valuable  one  to  the  mother 
country.  The  magnificent  mountain  range  which  stretches 
to  the  interior  will  furnish  homes  for  several  millions  of 
sturdy  German  peasants ;  while  the  lowlands  will  make 
valuable  estates  to  be  worked  by  native  labor  under  German 

144 


COUNTRY   GENTLEMAN.      MOONDAH    RIVER.      OLD   AFRICA 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    EEOBV. 

superintendence.  Experience  at  Kamerun  has  shown  that 
German  families  can  live  in  the  lowlands,  but  the  best  plan 
will  be  for  German  colonists  to  settle  first  on  the  higher 
mountain  slopes  where  the  climate  is  more  like  that  of  the 
temperate  zone,  and  then  the  children  born  in  this  tem- 
perate African  climate  will  be  able  to  move  farther  down 
in  a  warmer  latitude,  and  their  children  in  a  generation  or 
two  will  be  able  to  live  in  the  lowlands  quite  as  well  as  the 
natives,  who  are  a  healthy  people,  as  healthy  as  those 
found  in  any  country  in  the  north  of  Europe. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  a  negro  can  bear  the 
African  climate  better  than  an  Anglo-Saxon  or  a  German. 
Such  is  not  the  case.  Negroes  who  go  to  Africa  from 
America  suffer  as  much,  if  not  indeed  more,  than  the  white 
American.  The  reason  why  the  African  negroes  bear  the 
climate  better  than  Europeans  is  simply  because  the 
African  is  a  native  and  has  an  African  constitution.  When 
a  Northerner  goes  in  summer  to  the  sea-coast  region  of 
South  Carolina,  Georgia,  or  Louisiana,  what  is  the  result  ? 
He  gets  fever  and  probably  dies  ;  and  yet  multitudes  of  his 
own  race  live  there  and  keep  their  health.  This  is  just 
what  happens  when  a  northern  born  negro  goes  to  Africa. 
The  conclusion  is  obvious ;  the  white  man  can  live  in 
Africa  as  well  as  the  negro,  when  his  constitution  is  an 
African  one.  To  obtain  this  African  constitution,  one  of 
the  best  plans  is  the  one  that  has  just  been  suggested,  to 
settle  colonists  upon  the  mountain  slopes  in  a  comparatively 
cool  climate  and  let  them  gradually  move  down  into  the 
plains.  To  accomplish  this  in  the  Kamerun  colon v  a 
railway  from  Victoria,  running  along  the  slopes  of  the 
Cameroons  range  is  necessary,  and  it  would  pay  the  Imperial 
government  to  guarantee  the  bonds  of  such  a  railway  if  by 
this  means  it  might  be  built  at  once. 

Among  the  traders  who  came  off  to  the  Kisanga  to  hear 
the  news  was  Mr.  Kudeling,  general  agent  for  the  firm  of 

X  145 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

Jantezen  &  Thormahlen,  of  Hamburg.  He  was  well 
acquainted  with  our  friends  and  at  once  gave  them  a 
pressing  invitation  to  come  ashore  and  spend  the  day  with 
him,  which  they  were  quite  ready  to  do.  His  factory  was 
near  the  Kisanga's  anchorage,  and  it  was  not  long  before 
they  were  seated  in  Air.  Kudeling's  cool  and  comfortable 
home.  It  was  the  Sabbath,  so  no  business  was  going  on, 
and  Mr.  Kudeling  was  able  to  give  all  his  time  to  his  guests, 
so  they  talked,  and  smoked,  and  enjoyed  themselves  until 
3  p.  m.,  when  they  walked  up  the  hill  to  the  church  and 
attended  divine  service.  The  building  was  large,  built  of 
brick  made  by  the  members  of  the  congregation,  and  there 
were  a  little  over  three  hundred  persons  present,  as  Mr. 
Schiff  found  by  counting  them.  The  preacher  was  a  native 
man,  and  the  services  were  in  the  Dualla,  or  native  lan- 
guage. All  the  older  members  of  the  congregation  could 
speak  English  quite  well,  but  this  language  is  now  inter- 
dicted, and  the  rising  generation  will  learn  the  German 
instead.  The  people  are  very  attentive,  and  seemed  earnest 
in  their  worship,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  Gospel 
religion  has  produced  a  great  change  in  the  Dualla  people. 
Our  friends  learned  that  the  native  Christians  sustain  this 
service  themselves,  raising  the  salary  for  the  native  pastor 
and  also  supporting  eight  teachers  who  have  schools  in 
different  villages  where  the  children  are  taught  to  read  and 
also  recite  the  catechism. 

When  the  service  was  ended  our  friends  called  at  the 
mission  which  was  close  by,  and  were  cordially  received  by 
Rev.  Messrs.  Arntz  and  Bastin,  who  have  lately  come  out 
from  Germany  to  take  charge  of  this  mission.  The  mission 
house  is  a  large  one,  built  of  brick,  and  the  greater  part  of 
it  has  two  stories.  The  ground  floor  seemed  somewhat 
damp  because  of  the  great  number  of  bananas  and  other 
plants  growing  near  the  house,  but  the  second  story,  being 
above  most  of  these,  was  delightful  and  afforded  an  exten- 

146 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

sive  view  of  the  native  town,  the  river  and  shipping,  and 
the  lowlands  opposite,  as  well  as  the  mountains  in  the  far 
distance  up  river.  This  mission  is  in  marked  contrast  to 
the  majority  of  those  on  the  West  African  coast,  being  built 
in  the  midst  of  the  native  town,  and  also  as  near  the  facto- 
ries as  it  was  possible  to  get ;  the  consequence  is  that  the 
grounds  are  not  large,  but  the  missionaries  are  near  the 
people,  and  the  church  is  convenient  of  access.  After 
spending  an  hour  very  pleasantly  with  these  good  brethren, 
our  friends  returned  to  Mr.  Kudeling's  factory  for  dinner, 
where  they  found  Captain  Thompson  awaiting  them,  having 
just  arrived  in  his  gig. 

After  dinner,  as  they  sat  on  the  piazza  by  the  riverside, 
the  conversation  turned  upon  the  railway  from  Victoria 
along  the  slopes  of  the  mountain  range,  and  the  benefits 
that  might  reasonably  be  expected  from  it.  Mr.  King 
thought  it  might  either  follow  the  Cameroons  range  toward 
the  northeast  and  then  through  the  Egyptian  Soudan  to  the 
Nile ;  or  it  might  presently  leave  the  mountains  and  con- 
tinue in  an  easterly  direction  until  it  reached  some  navigable 
affluent  of  the  Congo.  This  latter  plan  would  create  a  new 
route  to  the  Congo  Free  State,  and  to  all  the  net-work  of 
rivers  connected  with  the  Congo  System.  Mr.  King  favored 
the  former  route  and  Mr.  Kudeling  the  latter. 

Said  Mr.  Kudeling  :  "  I  think  it  would  be  much 
better  to  open  up  the  trade  routes,  and  let  colonization  rest 
for  the  present.  We  traders  who  are  out  here  now  want  to 
make  some  money.  If  colonists  come  out  here  it  will  turn 
things  up  side  down,  and  our  trade  will  not  be  so  profitable 
as  it  now  is.  I  am  in  favor  of  the  railway,  but  let  it  run  to 
some  river  that  empties  into  the  Congo ;  then  we  can  put 
steamers  on  the  river,  and  go  everywhere  with  our  goods. 
There  is  plenty  of  ivory,  ebony  and  palm  oil  in  the  Congo 
valley,  and  for  my  part  I  should  like  to  buy  it." 


i47 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

"  I  cannot  but  think,"  responded  Mr.  King,  "  that  even 
if  the  existing  state  of  things  be  somewhat  broken  up,  you 
will  still  find  your  business,  not  only  as  profitable  as  it  now 
is,  but  even  more  so  ;  for  with  the  influx  of  colonists  there 
will  be  a  demand  for  a  multitude  of  things,  all  of  which 
you  could  supply,  and  thus  while  trade  went  in  somewhat 
different  channels,  yet  its  volume  would  be  at  least  as 
much — perhaps  more.  For  my  own  part,  it  seems  to  me 
this  colony  has  a  great  future  before  it.  It  is  nearer  the 
centre  of  Africa  than  any  other  point  on  the  Coast.  It  is 
far  nearer  all  the  richer  and  more  valuable  portions  of  the 
Congo  Valley,  than  the  mouth  of  the  Congo  itself.  It  has 
a  mountain  range  of  easy  ascent,  which  does  not  need  to 
be  crossed,  but  may  be  followed  at  an}-  height  you  may 
choose  to  elect,  and  a  river  with  fine  tributaries  that  bring 
you  to  the  very  foot  of  these  mountains.  The  soil  is  every- 
where rich,  the  climate  pleasant,  and  the  native  population 
friendly  and  easily  managed.  The  government,  too,  is 
likely  to  be  successful ;  it  is  strong,  and  yet  gives  ample 
room  for  the  devolopment  of  individual  and  corporate 
effort  without  governing  them  to  death  ;  and  it  affords  full 
security  for  both  life  and  property.  Now  build  a  railway 
along  the  lower  slopes  of  this  mountain  range,  bring  out 
peasant  families  and  care  for  them  until  they  are  able  to 
care  for  themselves  ;  set  these  Duallas  at  work  under 
efficient  corporate  direction  to  cleaning  up  the  country-  and 
planting  rice,  sugar  cane,  coffee  and  tobacco,  and  in  a  few 
years  you  will  have  a  country  that  will  rival  Java  for 
commercial  and  industrial  prosperity.' ' 

The  conversation  was  continued  until  a  late  hour,  and 
then  Captain  Thompson  took  his  passengers  on  board  the 
Kisanga,  and  they  were  soon  in  dreamland. 

On  Monday  morning,  October  the  6th,  Mr.  Aitken,  a 
Scotch  trader,  came  on  board  the  Kisanga  and  invited  our 
friends  to  pa}'  a  visit  to  the  governor,  Baron  Von  Soden, 

148 


GABOON    NATIVE.      NEWEST  AFRICA 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBV. 

and  spend  the  day  with  him  ;  an  invitation  they  gladly 
accepted.  At  the  government  landing  is  a  short  pier,  and 
concrete  steps  lead  to  the  top  of  the  bluff  where  the  Baron's 
residence  stands  on  level  ground  with  shady  walks  winding 
through  the  lawn — a  quiet  and  attractive  spot.  The 
governor  is  a  pleasant  and  agreeable  gentleman,  a  great 
worker,  thinking  nothing  of  throwing  off  his  coat  and 
lending  a  hand  to  help  if  something  heavy  is  to  be  lifted, 
and  often  taking  a  hoe  or  spade  to  show  a  laborer  how  a 
particular  piece  of  work  is  to  be  done.  He  is  a  great 
favorite  with  every  one  in  the  colony  except  evil  doers. 
Under  his  wise  and  energetic  administration  the  resources 
of  the  country  are  likely  to  be  developed  rapidly.  He 
received  our  friends  courteously,  and  after  twenty  minutes 
conversation  about  the  development  of  the  country,  bade 
them  adieu  and  wished  them  "  bon  voyage  "  and  a  long  and 
useful  life  in  Africa.  The  governor  is  heartily  in  favor  of 
a  railway  to  the  northeast,  and  thinks  it  must  soon  become 
an  accomplished  fact. 

From  the  governor's  house  the  little  part}-  took  a  stroll 
through  the  native  town,  which  is  over  a  mile  wide  and 
three  miles  long,  extending  all  the  way  to  the  creek  that 
separates  the  island  from  the  mainland.  Throughout  the 
length  of  the  town  an  excellent  road  has  been  made  by  the 
governor,  with  ditches  on  each  side  to  carry  off  the  water. 
The  town  is  not  regularly  laid  out  as  a  whole,  but  consists 
of  small  aggregations  of  houses,  each  forming  a  little  com- 
munity, presided  over  by  an  aged  patriarch  who  called  it 
"  his  town."  Those  of  one  name  dwell  together,  and  the 
patriarch  is  simply  the  oldest  male  member  of  the  family. 
Every  available  foot  of  space  between  the  houses  was 
planted  with  sweet  potatoes,  bananas,  plantains  and  the 
arum  esculatuin,  which  is  a  favorite  here,  as  it  is  in  the 
South  Sea  Islands.  A  number  of  cacao  trees  were  growing 
in  or  near  each  little  village,  this  being  a  new  industry. 

149 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

Bushels  of  the  seeds  were  lying  on  mats  in  the  sun  to  dry, 
and  Mr.  Aitken  told  his  companions  the  factories  paid  a 
sixpence  a  pound  for  them.  This  bean  grows  well,  and 
might  be  produced  in  almost  any  quantity  if  a  little  effort 
were  made.  As  the  trees  are  low  and  bushy,  they  would 
be  well  adapted  for  planting  between  larger  trees,  such  as 
cocoanut,  breadfruit,  oil  palms  and  mango.  They  come 
into  bearing  in  three  years,  which  would  make  them 
valuable  to  grow  in  connection  with  oranges,  which  do  not 
yield  largely  in  less  than  ten  years. 

Mr.  Alexander  was  filled  with  admiration  for  the  oil 
palms,  which  were  larger  and  more  luxuriant  than  any  he 
had  yet  seen.  There  is  no  more  beautiful  tree  in  the  world 
than  the  oil  palm  when  it  grows  on  suitable  ground. 
Quite  a  number  of  brick  houses  were  scattered  here  and 
there,  and  they  found  a  brick  church  in  course  of  construc- 
tion by  the  Duallas.  The  art  of  brick-making  had  been 
taught  the  people  years  ago  by  Mr.  Baker,  a  Baptist 
missionary,  and  now  the  people  prefer  brick  above  all  other 
building  material.  The  men  of  Kamerun,  like  those  of 
Duketown,  are  largely  engaged  in  the  oil  trade,  loading 
canoes  and  going  up  the  rivers  and  through  the  back  creeks 
collecting  the  oil  and  kernels  from  the  villages  and  bring- 
ing them  to  the  white  traders  at  the  factories.  Valuable  as 
this  oil  trade  now  is,  it  is  but  a  trifle  compared  to  what  the 
country  may  produce  when  a  railway  is  built  and  large 
industrial  companies  cultivate  the  soil  and  develop  the 
resources  of  this  wonderful  land. 

Our  friends  returned  to  Mr.  Aitken's  for  breakfast,  and 
then  went  on  board  the  Kisanga,  as  Captain  Thompson  had 
sent  a  note  ashore  saying  he  would  sail  at  three  o'clock. 
Our  friends  left  Kamerun  with  real  regret,  and  the}-  watched 
the  long  line  of  the  foreign  settlement  until  it  was  lost  in 
the  distance. 


150 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

Captain  Thompson  kept  his  ship  at  full  speed  until  she 
was  entirely  clear  of  the  mud-banks  at  the  river's  mouth, 
and  then  turned  southward  down  the  coast,  and  slowed 
down  the  engines,  as  the  distance  to  Batanga,  his  next  port 
of  call,  was  not  great. 

In  the  evening  the  conversation  turned  upon  cacao 
culture,  and  the  unanimous  opinion  of  the  party,  was  that 
it  might  easily  become  a  more  important  industry  than  the 
palm  kernel  trade,  for  whereas  palm  kernels  bring  twelve 
pounds  a  ton,  the  cacao  beans  would  sell  for  sixty  pounds  a 
ton,  and  it  is  almost  as  easy  to  raise  and  dry  a  ton  of  cacao 
as  to  crack  a  ton  of  palm  kernels.  The  cacao  does  not 
ripen  all  its  pods  at  once,  but  they  come  to  maturity 
throughout  a  long  season,  thus  equalizing  the  labor  and 
bringing  in  an  income  throughout  most  of  the  year.  All 
kinds  of  spices,  too,  nourish  everywhere  throughout  the 
German  territory,  and  if  systematically  cultivated,  would 
find  a  ready  market  in  Europe  and  bring  a  large  revenue  to 
the  colony. 

At  sunrise  on  Tuesday  morning  the  Kisanga  anchored 
off  the  factorv  of  Messrs.  Hatton  &  Cookson  at  Batano-a. 
A  small  river  empties  here  into  the  sea,  and  only  a  few 
hundred  yards  back  from  the  beach  it  falls  over  the  rocks 
from  a  height  of  forty  feet.  The  cascade  is  a  very  beautiful 
one,  and  is  one  of  the  few  in  the  world  that  can  be  seen 
from  the  deck  of  an  ocean  steamer.  The  Captain  took  his 
friends  ashore  to  call  upon  Mr.  Hervey,  who  was  in  charge 
of  the  factory  ;  he  also  left  word  for  his  surf  boats  to  be 
launched  and  bring  off  some  casks  of  fresh  water  from  the 
river  at  the  foot  of  the  falls. 

After  a  short  talk  with  Mr.  Hervey  the  parts'  walked 
out  to  have  a  look  at  the  cascade.  They  found  the  river 
water  to  be  several  degrees  colder  than  the  sea  ;  as  the 
morning  sun  shone  upon  the  mist  that  ascended  from  the 
falling   water,   it    formed    rainbows    that    were  extremely 

151 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

beautiful.  Crawfish  are  found  among  the  rocks  by  the 
native  women,  and  the  factory  is  kept  well  supplied  with 
this  delicacy.  Our  friends  wished  to  walk  up  to  the  beach 
a  few  miles  to  see  the  tobacco  farm  already  mentioned,  but 
the  captain  informed  them  he  would  leave  by  noon,  and 
that  there  was  not  time  to  go  there  and  back  again, 
especially  as  it  would  be  high  tide  in  the  meantime,  and 
then  they  could  not  walk  along  the  beach. 

While  they  were  at  breakfast  in  the  factory,  Rev.  Mr. 
Brier,  from  the  American  Mission,  three  miles  below,  came 
in  and  was  invited  to  take  a  seat  at  the  table.  He  was  a 
young  man,  and  this  was  his  first  time  out,  but  he  had 
already  obtained  the  goodwill  of  the  native  people,  and  had 
an  average  attendance  upon  his  services  of  three  hundred 
persons.  When  breakfast  was  over  he  invited  the  travelers 
to  visit  the  mission,  and  they  were  soon  in  his  boat  gliding 
over  the  smooth  sea,  except  Captain  Thompson,  who 
remained  to  transact  some  business  with  Mr.  Hervey. 

At  noon  the  captain  steamed  down  opposite  to  the 
mission  to  pick  up  the  passengers  and  also  to  land  a  few 
boat  loads  of  goods  for  Mr.  Brier.  This  was  accomplished 
by  3  p.  m.,  and  then  the  Kisanga  steamed  away  to  the 
southward. 

Our  friends  found  the  mission  to  be  a  much  smaller  one 
than  the  Basle  Mission  at  Kamerun,  but  it  had  gained  the 
goodwill  of  the  people,  and  had  already  greatly  changed 
their  character.  A  number  of  out-stations  were  kept  up 
where  there  were  schools  and  the  Gospel  was  regularly 
preached.  Mr.  Brier's  house  was  a  new  one,  and  while  it 
was  small,  it  was  comfortable.  It  was  built  of  planks,  on 
brick  piers  four  feet  above  the  ground,  with  galvanized  iron 
roof,  and  had  a  veranda  all  around  it.  There  was  cistern 
at  one  corner  of  the  house,  for  holding  rain-water  ;  a  good 
idea ;  for  the  water  from  surface  springs  is  not  always  of 
the  best.     The  interior  of  the  house  had  been  tastefully 

152 


KAMERUN,    BATAXGA,    ELOBY. 

arranged  by  Airs.  Brier,  and  afforded  a  good  example  of  an 
African  home.  The  house  is  near  the  landing,  and  from 
the  front  piazza  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  sea  ;  and  when 
the  air  is  clear,  of  the  peak  of  Fernando  Po  to  the  north- 
west. A  large  tract  of  land  has  been  purchased  for  a  new 
central  station,  half  way  between  the  present  mission  and 
the  water-fall,  and  there  on  a  fine  bluff  it  is  proposed  to 
build  a  permanent  station,  when  the  present  one  will  be 
occupied  by  a  native  brother. 

The  Batanga  men  use  a  canoe  of  peculiar  construction, 
different  from  any  to  be  found  on  the  coast.  They  are 
small  and  light,  weighing  but  a  few  pounds  each,  and  can 
carry  but  one  person.  With  these  small  canoes  a  Batanga 
fisherman  does  not  fear  to  go  three  or  four  miles  to  sea  in 
search  of  his  finny  prey,  although  the  fish  are  usually 
found  quite  near  to  land.  All  the  fish  are  caught  with 
hook  and  line,  and  when  engaged  in  fishing  the  canoeist 
dangles  both  feet  in  the  water  to  keep  his  crazy  little  craft 
steady,  a  proceeding  sometimes  taken  advantage  of  by 
sharks  to  pull  the  fisherman  overboard  and  so  get  a 
breakfast. 

Mr.  Brier  informed  our  friends  that  there  were  regular 
paths  to  the  interior  used  by  the  people  for  bringing  down 
ivory,  which  is  the  staple  of  trade  here.  For  the  first 
thirty  miles  from  the  coast  there  is  a  considerable  popula- 
tion scattered  through  the  forest  in  villages  of  from  two 
hundred  to  five  hundred  persons.  Beyond  this  is  a  strip  of 
dark,  heavy  forest,  seventy  miles  wide,  totally  uninhabited  ; 
beyond  this  forest,  especially  in  a  northeasterly  direction, 
is  an  open  country  of  hill  and  dale,  well  cultivated,  and 
containing  a  large  and  thriving  population.  A  railway  no 
more  than  one  hundred  miles  in  length  could  reach  to  this 
country,  which  it  is  believed  by  some,  will  prove  to  be  well 
adapted  to  European  constitutions.  Mr.  Brier  greatly 
desired  to  locate  in  this  fine  country,  but  the  lack  of  proper 

153 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

means  of  communication  had  thus  far  prevented  him.  If 
but  a  small  portion  of  the  money  annually  expended  upon 
the  military  establishment  of  Germany  were  spent  on  this 
fair  colon}-,  by  another  century  it  would  equal  in  value  and 
importance  the  mother  country  itself. 

A  few  miles  southeast  of  Batanga  is  Elephant  Moun- 
tain, a  tall  hill  sixteen  hundred  feet  high  and  densely 
wooded  to  the  summit.  It  would  make  a  magnificent 
coffee  estate,  and  some  day  will  become  the  home  of  a 
wealthy  family.  The  small  river  they  had  seen  in  the 
morning  Mr.  Brier  told  them  was  navigable  for  canoes  for 
two  days'  journey  in  the  interior. 

As  the  Kisanga  steamed  along  the  coast  that  bright 
afternoon,  the  shore  line  presented  many  scenes  of  beauty 
and  tropical  loveliness.  The  Sierra  del  Crystal  mountains 
were  in  plain  view,  giving  the  distant  background  every 
variety  of  shape  and  form,  and  sometimes  the  foothills  came 
down  almost  to  the  sea,  everywhere  clothed  with  a  luxuriant 
forest,  whose  deep  green  was  turned  to  almost  a  golden  hue 
by  the  rich  sunlight. 

At  sunrise  on  Wednesday  morning  the  Kisanga  was  off 
the  Benita  river,  but  too  far  off  shore  to  see  objects  with  any 
distinctness.  The  entire  country  was  covered  with  forest, 
and  the  Sierra  del  Crystal  range  was  still  in  plain  sight, 
suggesting  no  end  of  coffee  estates,  and  happy,  prosperous 
homes  on  these  breezy  heights.  Benita  is  a  great  place  for 
elephants.  During  the  dry  season  they  come  down  from  the 
mountains  to  the  lowlands  and  make  serious  trouble  with 
the  negroes'  gardens  ;  they  not  infrequently  are  seen  on  the 
beach,  cooling  their  tender  toes  in  the  briny  surf.  Those 
who  are  fond  of  hunting  would  find  this  a  good  game 
country  during  the  dry  season,  which  lasts  from  May  to 
September,  although  with  the  exception  of  elephants,  game 
is  not  as  abundant  as  it  is  south  of  the  equator. 

154 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

From  Batanga,  southward,  the  climate  along  the  coast 
grows  rapidly  cooler ;  the  reason  for  this  is,  that  a  strong 
ocean  current  from  the  south  flows  along  the  coast,  coming 
as  far  north  as  Batanga,  where  it  turns  to  the  westward, 
and  then  to  the  southwest.  This  current  flows  at  the  rate 
of  from  two  to  three  milles  an  hour,  and  brings  the  cold 
water  of  the  South  Atlantic  to  cool  the  coast  of  the 
equatorial  regions.  The  prevailing  winds  are  from  the 
southeast,  and  these,  blowing  diagonally  across  the  river 
of  cooler  water,  makes  the  sea-breeze  very  cool  and  refresh- 
ing ;  as  a  consequence  the  coast  region  near  the  equator 
and  for  some  distance  south  of  it,  possesses  a  delightful 
climate,  by  no  means  so  hot  and  sultry  as  strangers  imagine 
must  be  the  case. 

From  Batanga,  southward,  fish  become  more  plentiful 
as  the  water  becomes  cooler,  and  they  are  also  of  better 
quality.  These  fish  congregate  mostly  at  the  mouths  of 
rivers,  where  their  food  is  most  abundant  ;  some  kinds  are 
caught  with  the  cast  net,  but  the  larger  and  finer  kind  are 
taken  with  hook  and  line.  There  is  very  little  trade  along 
this  part  of  the  coast  ;  ebony,  redwood  and  rubber  being 
the  principal  articles  exported. 

At  noon  the  Kisanga  was  off  Cape  St.  John  and,  turn- 
ing her  prow  to  the  eastward,  she  entered  Corisco  Bay. 
This  bay  is  thirty  miles  long,  and  twenty  miles  wide,  but, 
while  there  is  considerable  anchorage  ground,  yet  it  is  so 
full  of  rocky  ledges  and  coral  reefs,  as  to  be  of  little  value 
for  ocean  steamers  ;  vessels  drawing  from  four  to  six  feet 
can  go  everywhere,  and  so  the  bay  may  be  considered  more 
in  the  light  of  inland  navigable  water.  There  is  a  river  of 
considerable  size  called  the  Muni,  that  empties  into  the 
northeast  corner  of  the  bay,  and  is  navigable  for  river 
steamers  for  seventy  or  eighty  miles.  The  shores  of  Corisco 
Bay  are  hilly,  covered  with  a  thick  forest  growth  and  are 
very  beautiful.     The  population  is  somewhat  scanty,  but  it 

155 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBV. 

increases  the  farther  one  penetrates  in  the  interior.  The 
mountains  of  the  Coast  Range  are  here  farther  from  the 
coast  than  they  were  toward  the  north,  but  they  may  still  be 
ssen  when  the  air  is  clear.  These  mountains  are  full  of 
iron  ore,  which  the  negroes  smelt  and  manufacture  into 
knives,  spears,  hoes,  adzes  and  many  other  tools.  The 
iron  possesses  a  toughness  which  makes  it  valuable,  and 
the  negroes  prize  it  above  any  iron  or  steel  they  can 
purchase  from  the  traders.  Elephants  abound  on  these 
mountains,  and  their  ivory  forms  one  of  the  most  valuable 
articles  of  export  from  Eloby. 

At  the  southern  end  of  Corisco  Bay  is  the  mouth  of  a 
small  river  called  the  Moondah.  This  river  in  the  dry 
season  literally  swarms  with  ducks,  geese,  storks,  cranes, 
pelicans,  flamingos  and  many  other  birds,  and  is  as  fine  a 
hunting  ground  as  any  lover  of  nature  could  wish.  But  a 
few  miles  up  this  river  is  something  far  more  interesting 
than  birds  ;  it  is  a  large  coffee  farm  belonging  to  the  great 
shipping  firm  of  C.  Woermann  &  Co.,  of  Hamburg.  A  day 
spent  in  visiting  this  fine  plantation  may  be  made  thor- 
oughly enjoyable.  A  large  number  of  trees  have  been  set 
out,  some  of  which  are  just  coming  into  bearing.  The 
coffee  is  of  the  Liberian  variety,  and  the  quality  fully  equal 
to  the  best  Java.  While  this  plantation  is  doing  well,  it  is 
almost  certain  that  the  coffee  tree  will  do  better  farther 
from  the  sea,  and  perhaps  upon  a  greater  elevation.  The 
mountains  of  the  interior  will  be  the  great  coffee  district  of 
the  future,  just  as  it  is  at  the  present  time  in  Brazil.  In 
the  not  far  distant  future  railways  will  penetrate  these 
mountains  in  every  direction,  and  they  will  then  be  culti- 
vated from  base  to  summit,  for  in  this  favored  climate 
every  foot  of  ground  can  be  made  to  yield  abundantly. 

In  the  settlement  of  Equatorial  Africa,  contrary  to  the 
rule  in  temperate  climates,  the  hills  and  mountains  will  be 
settled  first ;  the  plains  and  lowlands  afterward  ;  and  as  the 

156 


KAMERUX,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

mountains  are  everywhere  covered  with  rich  soil,  it  will  not 
be  difficult  to  carry  on  agricultural  operations  there,  for  the 
slopes  can  either  be  terraced  and  sown  to  rice,  or  breadfruit, 
oranges,  mangos  or  other  valuable  trees  can  be  grown,  and 
the  plantain  and  banana  flourish  everywhere.  These  hills 
now  support  a  heavy  forest  growth,  and  this  can  in  a  few 
years  be  supplanted  by  fruit  trees  that  will  support  a  large 
population.  The  lowland,  as  has  already  been  stated,  can 
be  best  worked  in  large  estates  by  native  labor. 

The  Kisanga  steamed  slowly  into  Corisco  Bay,  making 
several  turns  to  avoid  the  reefs,  and  at  3  p.  m.  achored  in 
front  of  the  large  English  factory  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muni, 
of  which  Mr.  Jones  is  the  chief  agent.  The  Kisanga  had 
been  sighted  when  she  entered  the  Bay,  and  as  soon  as  the 
anchor  was  down  Mr.  Jones  came  on  board  and  welcomed 
our  friends  once  more  to  Africa.  After  an  hour's  conver- 
sation he  invited  them  ashore  to  dinner,  and  at  five  o'clock 
they  went,  accompanied  by  the  Captain. 

The  country  about  Corisco  Bay  is  in  dispute  between 
France  and  Spain.  France  has  a  small  station  at  the  mouths 
of  both  rivers,  and  tries  to  collect  duty  on  the  trade  goods 
that  are  landed.  Spain  has  a  military  station  on  Eloby 
Island,  a  short  distance  out  in  the  Bay,  and  compels  each 
factory  to  pay  one  thousand  dollars  a  year  license  in  lieu  of 
custom  duties,  which  are  more  difficult  to  collect.  Between 
these  two  powers  the  traders  have  an  unhappy  time  of  it. 
Much  of  the  West  Coast  is  now  passing  through  a  transition 
period,  and  political  affairs  are  not  in  all  cases  as  tranquil 
as  in  older  communities. 

Mr.  Jones'  establishment  is  very  pleasantly  situated 
upon  a  rocky  bluff  some  thirty  feet  above  the  waters  of  the 
Bay,  and  commands  a  wide  view.  From  the  front  veranda 
the  hillgirt  shores  of  the  Bay  and  the  islands  of  Elobv  and 
Corisco  to  the  westward  presented  a  fine  panorama  in  the 
mellow  light  of  the  setting  sun.     This  factory  is  just  one 

157 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

degree  north  of  the  equator,  and  the  days  and  nights  are 
practically  equal  throughout  the  year.  This  is  a  very- 
agreeable  arrangement,  and  the  perfect  regularity  of  day 
and  night  all  through  the  year  is  much  more  pleasant  than 
the  constant  change  found  in  temperate  latitudes. 

Our  friends  were  bound  for  Gaboon,  which  is  only  fifty 
miles  south  of  Eloby,  and  Mr.  Jones  promised  to  send  them 
around  in  a  few  days  on  one  of  his  small  steamers  ;  but 
Captain  Thompson  persuaded  them  to  go  south  with  him 
and  land  at  Gaboon  on  their  way  back,  as  it  was  necessary 
for  him  to  go  to  the  Island  of  St.  Thomas,  and  he  preferred 
to  do  so  on  his  outward-bound  voyage  ;  so  it  was  settled 
that  they  should  go  south  with  him,  and  they  left  letters 
with  Mr.  Jones  to  be  forwarded  to  their  friends  at  Gaboon. 

One  of  the  attractive  features  of  the  dinner  that  even- 
ing was  turtle  soup.  Turtles  of  large  size  come  on  the 
sandy  beach  of  Corisco  at  night  and  are  captured  by  hunters 
who  watch  for  them  in  the  moonlight.  They  sometimes 
weigh  as  much  as  six  hundred  pounds,  but  the  usual  size 
is  from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred  pounds  ;  the  flesh  is 
excellent,  and  one  of  the  best  ways  of  preparing  it  is  the 
usual  negro  fashion  of  putting  it  in  "  bundles."  To  do  this 
several  pieces  of  banana  leaf  are  cut  about  two  feet  in 
length,  and  the  mid-rib  pared  down  thin ;  these  are  then 
slightly  wilted  over  the  fire.  The  meat  is  now  heaped  up 
on  one  of  these  pieces  of  leaf,  and  some  fresh  palm  oil 
poured  over  it  and  a  couple  of  dozen  of  small  chile  peppers 
added.  The  meat  is  now  enclosed  in  several  thicknesses  of 
the  banana  leaf,  which  is  securely  tied  and  the  "  bundle  " 
placed  in  the  hot  ashes,  where  it  is  allowed  to  cook  slowly 
for  several  hours.  As  no  steam  can  escape  the  meat 
becomes  very  tender,  and  all  the  delicate  flavor  is  retained. 
This  mode  of  cooking  will  make  the  toughest  meat  tender 
and  is  superior  to  any  mode  of  cooking  meat  practiced  in 
the  home  lands.     Another  feature  of  the  dinner  was  fresh 

158 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

vegetables  from  Mr.  Jones'  garden.  The  purely  tropical 
vegetables,  such  as  breadfruit  and  plantains,  along  with 
yams,  sweet  potatoes  and  the  arum  esculatum,  quite  take 
the  place  of  our  home  vegetables,  and  yet  northerners  like 
the  taste  of  cabbage,  onions,  lettuce,  radishes  and  cucum- 
bers, as  these  remind  them  of  home.  All  these  were  grown 
by  Mr.  Jones  in  his  garden.  After  dinner,  as  they  sat  upon 
the  piazza  and  enjoyed  Mr.  Jones'  cigars,  they  were  treated 
to  home-made  chocolate  instead  of  coffee.  This  was 
another  of  the  products  of  Eloby.  Mr.  Jones  has  cleared  a 
space  of  a  few  acres  on  the  hillside  and  planted  it  with 
cacao,  and  this  chocolate  was  made  by  his  cook  from  the 
beans.  Mr.  Jones  informed  our  friends  that  the  pods 
ripened  continuously  for  several  months,  and  that  all  the 
care  the  bushes  required  was  to  keep  them  clear  of  the 
grass  and  vines  ;  this  he  did  by  hand,  but  when  the  beans 
are  raised  in  a  commercial  way  the  cultivation  could  be- 
best  carried  on  by  mule  power.  Our  friends  found  the 
chocolate  to  be  rich,  smooth,  and  of  a  fine  flavor — superior 
to  the  chocolate  offered  for  sale  in  the  grocery  stores  at 
home.  Oranges  also  grow  well  at  Eloby  and  ripen  their 
fruit  in  May,  when  they  are  scarce  and  high  in  the  markets 
of  Europe.  One  of  the  pleasures  of  the  tropics  is  that  the 
open  air  is  delightfully  agreeable  all  through  the  year,  and 
unless  it  is  actually  raining  hard  it  is  pleasant  to  sit  out  on 
the  piazza  every  evening  and  enjoy  the  light,  cool  breeze. 

Our  friends  continued  in  earnest  conversation  until  a 
late  hour,  when  they  returned  to  the  Kisanga,  and  were 
soon  asleep  in  their  bunks. 

The  next  day  was  a  busy  one,  and  a  large  quantity  of 
cargo  was  landed.  In  the  evening  the  agents  from  the 
factories  on  Eloby  Island  came  to  take  dinner  with  Mr. 
Jones,  and  a  very  enjoyable  evening  was  spent  by  all  hands. 
Mr.  Schiff  seemed  to  be  especially  happy  ;  he  had  his  own 
ways  to  be  sure,  but  he  was  the  prince   of   good  fellows 

i59 


KAMERUN,    BATANGA,    ELOBY. 

and  never  enjoyed  himself  as  much  as  when  he  had  plenty 
of  his  friends  about  him. 

The  Kisanga  sailed  from  Eloby  at  noon  on  Friday,  and 
before  sundown  the  shores  of  Corisco  Bay  had  faded  from 
sight  on  the  eastern  horizon. 


160 


Chapter  VIII 


ST.  THOMAS:    ANGOLA. 


AS  the  sun  rose  above  the  waters  on  Saturday  morn- 
ing the  Island  of  St.  Thomas  was  seen  on  the 
starboard  bow,  and  before  ten  o'clock  the  Kisanga 

anchored  in  the  harbor  of  St.  Anna  de  Chanes 

■> 

which  is  the  principal  port  of  the  island,  and  a  few  miles 
south  of  the  equator.  St.  Thomas  belongs  to  Portugal  > 
and  was  once  a  pet  colony  of  the  mother  country.  Roads 
and  bridges  were  constructed  in  every  direction  over  the 
island  ;  the  culture  of  the  cane  was  carried  to  the  highest 
perfection,  and  as  many  as  fifteen  large  ships  were  laden 
with  sugar  in  a  single  season.  Costly  churches  were  built 
in  the  towns,  with  variegated  marble  floors,  and  statues  and 
other  ornaments  ;  indeed  the  island  was  on  the  high  road 
to  prosperty,  when  in  an  evil  hour  the  culture  of  cane  was 
interdicted  in  order  to  encourage  its  growth  in  Brazil,  and 
of  course  the  planters  were  ruined.  At  the  present  time 
coffee  has  in  a  measure  taken  its  place,  but  the  heavy  taxes 
discourage  the  investment  of  capital,  and  the  island  is  not 
so  prosperous  as  it  ought  to  be. 

The  location  of  this  beautiful  island  is  exceptionally 
good,  being  in  the  centre  cool  current  from  the  South 
Atlantic,  and  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  distant  from 

xi  161 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

the  continent  of  Africa.  The  land  rises  in  the  centre  of 
the  island  to  a  height  of  eight  thousand  feet,  so  that  it 
has  almost  every  range  of  warm  and  temperate  climate, 
and  almost  every  product  of  the  world  may  be  grown 
there.  Under  an  enlightened  government,  with  freedom 
from  taxes  for  a  fewyears  until  its  industries  were  well 
established,  and  a  little  help  from  the  home  country  in  the 
shape  of  a  subsidized  line  of  steamers,  St.  Thomas  could 
be  made  the  garden  of  the  world  ;  as  it  is  even  now  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  islands  of  the  ocean. 

Captain  Thompson  had  some  business  errands  on  shore 
and  our  friends  went  with  him  to  see  the  town  and  for  the 
sake  of  a  walk.  They  found  it  a  city  of  several  thousand 
inhabitants,  presenting  much  the  same  features  as  Las 
Palmas  on  Grand  Canary,  but  with  a  richer  growth  of 
vegetation.  The  health}-  appearance  of  the  Portuguese 
men,  women  and  children  showed  clearly  that  the  climate 
of  this  tropical  isle  was  healthy,  as  well  as  agreeable.  If  a 
narrow-gauge  railway  was  built  up  the  mountain  it  would 
make  one  of  the  finest  winter  resorts  for  invalids  from  the 
frozen  North,  and  a  fashionable  resort  for  merchants  and 
planters  from  all  parts  of  the  Coast.  There  is  a  sub-marine 
cable  here  connecting  with  Cadiz,  in  Spain,  and  Captain 
Thompson  sent  a  cablegram  to  his  owners  announcing 
his  safe  arrival. 

By  i  p.  m.  our  friends  were  on  board  their  floating 
home,  and  two  hours  later  the  Kisanga  steamed  away  to 
the  southward,  and  by  nightfall  St.  Thomas  was  only  a 
dark  form  draped  in  clouds  in  the  northern  horizon. 

That  evening,  as  the  little  party  sat  upon  the  deck 
beneath  the  awning  smoking  their  pipes,  the  conversation 
turned  upon  the  reputed  unhealthfulness  of  the  African 
continent,  and  its  probable  effect  in  preventing  colonization 
by  Europeans.  Said  Mr.  King  :  "  I  believe  this  unhealth- 
fulness  is  more  apparent  than  real  ;    when  you  come  to 

162 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

examine  the  matter  carefully,  you  will  find,  first,  that  the 
climate  is  not  so  deadly  as  is  popularly  supposed  ;  second, 
that  some  other  countries  in  the  world  where  white  people 
live,  and  I  might  almost  say  thrive,  are  quite  as  unhealthy  as 
Africa.  That  people  can  live  in  Africa  we  ourselves  are 
witnesses,  for  three  of  us  have  lived  there  for  fifteen  years, 
and  we  have  found  it  on  the  whole  a  much  more  agreeable 
climate  than  we  have  in  the  home-land.  Then  we  are  each 
of  us  acquainted  with  men  of  our  own  race  who  have  lived 
thirty  years  or  more  and  who  have  enjoyed  as  good  health 
as  the  average  citizen  at  home,  and  I  don't  know  but  better. 
All  these  men  I  speak  of  have  lived  on  or  near  the  sea 
coast,  usually  in  swampy  districts,  have  worked  hard, 
endured  man}-  privations  and  hardships,  especially  during 
their  first  years  of  residence  on  the  Coast,  and  have  not 
always  lived  as  comfortable  as  we  do  now.  Again,  the 
entire  Western  Coast  is  lined  with  a  fringe  of  settlements, 
often  extending  up  the  rivers,  with  a  considerable  European 
population  who  seem  to  get  along  as  comfortably  as  the 
foreign  population  in  any  tropical  land  ;  this  European 
population,  stationed  every  few  miles  along  the  coast,  is  a 
standing  argument,  a  living  witness  to  the  inhabitability  of 
the  land  by  the  white  race.  This,  mark  you,  is  not  theory, 
it  is  an  accomplished  fact.  But  are  these  river  and  coast 
settlements  the  best  for  health  that  the  country  affords? 
Let  us  take  my  own  country  and  see  how  it  would  be  there. 
Suppose  settlements  were  made  along  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
in  the  delta  of  the  Mississippi,  and  along  the  swampy  banks 
of  that  river,  would  we  consider  those  choice  locations  for 
residence  ?  Our  people  live  in  these  places,  it  is  true,  and 
so  they  do  in  Africa,  but  we  all  prefer  the  higher  and  more 
open  lands  of  the  interior.  Now  I  do  not  wish  to  conceal 
the  fact  that  the  pioneers  in  the  African  wilderness  will 
meet  with  a  high  death  rate  ;  they  do  in  every  country,  and 
they  will  here  ;  but  that  does  not  prove  that  the  country  is 

'63 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

not  adapted  to  our  race.  Look  at  the  settlement  of  our 
own  New  England  States  ;  the  death  rate  among  the  early 
colonists  was  enormous,  far  greater  than  it  probably  will  be 
in  any  attempt  to  colonize  Africa. 

"  Another  thing  I  wish  to  call  your  attention  to  ;  every 
tropical  country  in  the  world  has  a  considerable  resident 
European  population  ;  Mexico,  Central  America,  Bolivia, 
Peru,  Venezula  and  Brazil  in  America ;  India,  Ceylon, 
Burmah,  Assam  and  Java  in  Asia  ;  now  why  should  Africa 
be  an  exception  ?  The  fact  is  Africa  is  not  an  exception  ; 
it  is  not  one  whit  more  unhealthy  than  many  other  countries. 
It  is  time  the  world  came  to  the  knowledge  of  the  truth 
that  it  can  go  to  Africa  and  live  as  wTell  as  it  can  in  any 
other  hot  country  under  similar  circumstances.  Run  a  few 
railways  through  this  country  ;  build  one  or  two  cities  like 
Bombay  and  Calcutta  ;  let  it  be  noised  abroad  that  money 
can  be  made  in  growing  rice,  coffee  and  cane ;  stop  this 
everlasting  expedition  business  with  its  blood  and  thunder 
stories  of  the  horrible  ;  make  Alt.  Albert  and  St.  Thomas 
fashionable  winter  resorts  for  the  rich  and  invalid  of  Europe, 
and  you  will  hear  no  more  of  the  unhealthfulness  of 
Africa." 

"  You  will  surely  admit,"  said  Mr.  Sinclair,  "  that 
there  is  fever  here,  for  you  have  had  it  twice  yourself." 

"  Yes,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "  I  do  admit  there  is  fever 
here,  and  the  fact  that  I  have  had  it  twice  myself  shows 
that  a  man  can  live  through  it ;  but  I  call  your  attention 
to  the  fact  that  there  is  fever  in  Cuba,  in  Vera  Cruz,  in 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  in  India,  Ceylon,  Burmah  and  all  the 
countries  of  Asia.  Both  cholera  and  the  plague  have  their 
home  in  India,  and  have  marched  through  Europe,  but  they 
are  unknown  in  Africa.  I  do  not  wish  to  say  that  people 
never  die  in  Africa,  nor  that  they  do  not  die  frequently 
before  their  time  ;  all  I  wish  to  do  is  to  show  that  in  this 
respect  Africa  is  no  exception  to  other  countries." 

164 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

"  I  believe,"  asserted  Mr.  Schiff,  "  that  a  man  who  is 
born  to  be  drowned  will  never  be  hung  ;  there  may  perhaps 
be  fever  in  Africa,  but  there  is  no  consumption,  nor  cancer, 
nor  diphtheria,  nor  pneumonia,  nor  dyspepsia." 

"  Well,  I  should  think  there  would  be,"  said  Mr. 
Sinclair,  "  the  way  you  shoveled  in  the  turtle  at  Mr.  Jones' 
the  other  night,  to  say  nothing  of  everything  else  you  ate." 

"  Jones  cooked  those  things  for  us,  didn't  he?  "  asked 
Mr.  Schiff,  "  and  I  only  wanted  to  do  honor  to  the 
occasion." 

"  I  must  admit,"  retorted  Mr.  Sinclair,  "  that  you  suc- 
ceeded remarkably  well." 

"  What  do  you  think  is  the  cause  of  this  fever  ? " 
inquired  Mr.  Alexander. 

"  I  do  not  know,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "there  are  many 
theories,  but  the  subject  has  never  been  studied  as  it  should 
have  been.  The  popular  idea  is  that  it  is  the  combined 
product  of  heat  and  moisture  ;  some  think  it  comes  from 
decaying  vegetation  ;  if  the  cause  could  be  surely  ascer- 
tained, it  might  not  be  difficult  to  find  a  remedy.  It  is 
known  that  the  cause  of  consumption,  which  destroys  one- 
sixth  of  the  human  race,  is  a  microscopic  parasitic  plant 
called  a  bacillus  ;  something  of  this  kind  may  possibly  be 
the  cause  of  fever.  Mark  you,  now,  I  am  only  a  layman, 
and  the  opinion  I  am  going  to  express  is  only  a  layman's 
opinion,  but  here  it  is.  In  some  way  that  I  do  not  under- 
stand there  is  generated  a  certain  poison,  popularly  called 
malaria,  which  most  likely  is  parasitic  in  its  nature,  and 
which  in  certain  countries  is  present  in  both  air  and  water. 
This  microscopic  parasite  enters  the  body,  and  especially 
the  blood,  and  then  a  war  begins  ;  like  every  war  it  is  waged 
for  the  mastery ;  the  body,  if  it  is  healthy  and  well 
nourished,  will  not  allow  itself  to  be  effected  by  this 
insidious  enemy  ;  the  intestinal  canal  throws  it  off,  the 
white  corpuscles  of  the  blood  devour  it,  and  the  body  con- 

165 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

tinues  in  a  healthy  condition.  On  the  other  hand,  if  there 
is  any  morbid  action  within  the  body,  caused  by  fear, 
organic  weakness,  exposure,  lack  of  nourishment,  anything 
that  reduces  the  vital  powers,  the  little  bacilli  get  the 
upper  hand,  multiply  rapidly,  break  down  the  structure  of 
the  blood,  derange  the  working  of  all  the  organs,  and  you 
have  a  result  which  you  call  fever." 

"How  can  this  be  either  prevented  or  cured?"  in- 
quired Mr.  Sinclair. 

"  That  is  the  great  question  of  the  age,"  replied  Mr. 
King.  "  The  man  who  can  answer  that  in  a  successful 
and  practical  way  can  have  a  fortune  larger  than  the 
Rothchilds.  The  warmer  regions  of  the  earth  present  such 
superior  attractions  that  if  your  question  could  be  answered 
easily,  the  colder  regions  of  the  world  would  soon  be  almost 
depopulated  in  the  rush  for  homes  in  the  beautiful  lands 
of  the  tropics.  Still,  I  think  it  will  not  be  many  years 
before  it  is  known.  Medical  science  has  made  wonderful 
progress  in  the  last  few  years,  and  it  seems  to  me  this 
desirable  secret  of  how  to  stay  the  action  of  malaria  is 
almost  within  our  grasp.  A  remedy  has  been  discovered 
for  consumption  ;  a  preventative  for  small-pox  ;  surgical 
operations  are  now  successfully  performed  that  were  impos- 
sible ten  years  ago  ;  the  cause  of  cholera  is  known,  and  the 
origin  and  nature  of  malaria  can  scarcely  remain  a  mystery 
much  longer." 

"  Has  not  Louis  Pasteur  made  some  valuable  dis- 
coveries?" inquired  Mr.  Alexander. 

"Yes,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "this  distinguished  French 
savant  determined  that  the  disease  known  as  anthrax, 
which  affects  animals  more  particularly,  is  caused  by  a 
bacillus  known  as  the  anthrax  bacillus.  He  discovered 
that  if  this  bacillus  was  cultivated  it  lost  to  a  certain  extent 
its  virulent  character,  and  could  be  injected  into  sheep 
without  danger  ;  he  also  found  that  sheep  thus  treated  with 

1 66 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

diluted  virus  were  protected  against  virus  still  more  intense, 
and  finally  they  could  be  made  absoluted  proof  against 
disease.  Now,  it  may  be  that  if  the  poison  we  call  malaria 
could  be  definitely  ascertained,  that  by  passing  it  through 
health}-  animals,  as  is  done  with  the  vaccine  virus,  or  by 
cultivating  it  in  the  laboratory,  as  was  done  with  the 
anthrax  bacillus,  it  might  be  injected  into  the  human  body 
and  thus  render  that  bod}'  proof  against  further  attacks. 
But  there  is  another  plan  of  treatment  I  have  thought  of : 
— the  two  assistants  of  the  celebrated  Dr.  Koch  announce 
that  diphtheria  and  lockjaw  may  be  prevented  or  cured  by 
the  injection  of  blood  of  animals  which  are  themselves 
incapable  of  being  attacked  by  these  diseases,  because  the 
white  corpuscles  of  the  blood  of  these  animals  have  a 
peculiar  voraciousness  for  the  bacilli  that  cause  these 
diseases." 

Mr.  Schiff  listened  with  deep  interest  and  was  quite 
warmed  up  by  Mr.  King's  remarks.  "  Who  knows,"  said 
he,  "  but  some  day  I  may  have  the  blood  of  a  bush  nigger 
pumped  into  me  to  cure  me  of  the  fever?  I  believe  I  will 
stick  to  calomel  for  a  while  yet." 

Mr.  Schiff  was  a  great  believer  in  calomel,  and  no 
wonder,  for  he  had  seen  it  produce  most  beneficent  results 
when  other  remedies  were  of  no  avail.  The  idea  which 
prevails  in  some  quarters  that  fever  may  be  successfully 
fought  with  quinine  alone,  has  been  responsible  for  many 
deaths.  In  our  present  state  of  knowledge  fever  ma}-  be 
cured  without  quinine,  but  not  without  calomel.  The 
native  fever-leaf  and  pepper  may  be  made  to  take  the  place 
of  quinine,  but  nothing  yet  known  can  take  the  place  of 
calomel  ;  this  latter  drug  appears  to  neutralize  the  poison 
in  the  blood,  and  then,  with  proper  nervous  stimulants,  the 
patient  ma}-  recover. 

It  is  somewhat  singular  that  savants  have  not  turned 
their  attention   to  the  origin  and   nature  of    malaria  ;    no 

167 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

greater  boom  could  to-day  be  conferred  upon  man  dnd  than 
the  discovery  of  some  means  by  which  the  human  body 
could  be  made  to  resist  the  attacks  of  this  insidious  foe. 
This  discovery  should  not  be  a  difficult  one  to  make,  and 
an  enormous  fortune  awaits  the  man  who  shall  be  so 
fortunate  as  to  find  it.  Of  course,  Africa  not  only  can,  but 
will  be  settled  whether  this  discovery  be  made  or  not ;  but 
if  a  preventative  remedy  could  be  found,  it  would  not  only 
save  an  immense  amount  of  suffering,  but  it  would  make 
the  white  race  absolute  masters  of  the  world.  Take  away 
the  fear  of  malaria  and  white  men  will  flourish  in  the  torrid 
regions  as  they  now  do  in  the  cooler  climates,  and  as  it  is 
the  workers  who  are  to  possess  the  earth,  so  the  inferior 
nations  will  be  pushed  to  the  wall  unless  by  some  means 
they  be  forced  into  industrious  habits. 

What  a  fine  field  for  investigation  is  here  opened  to  the 
young  medical  student,  for  this  great  discover}',  as  I  appre- 
hend, is  as  likely  to  be  made  by  the  young  inquirer,  as  by 
the  mature  student  ;  for  the  latter  is  set  in  his  ideas,  while 
the  former  is  not  handicapped  by  any  pre-conceived 
opinions.  Let  the  younger  men  who  are  free  from  family 
ties  go  to  the  warmer  regions  of  the  earth,  and  there  study 
this  important  subject  until  it  is  fully  mastered. 

Three  days  after  leaving  St.  Thomas  the  Kisanga 
entered  the  beautiful  bay  of  St.  Paul  de  Loanda  in  the 
Portuguese  Province  of  Angola,  nine  degrees  south  of  the 
equator.  This  bay  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  on  the 
entire  African  coast,  and  is  completely  sheltered  from  the 
rollers  which  come  in  from  the  South  Atlantic,  but  unfor- 
tunately, it  is  filling  up,  and  steamers  the  size  of  the 
Kisanga  must  anchor  three  miles  from  the  city  ;  the  cargo 
being  transferred  to  and  from  the  shore  in  lighters.  The 
bay  has  been  formed  by  a  sand-spit,  which  begins  near  the 
fort  and  extends  nearly  parallel  with  the  shore  ;  this  sandy 
key  grows  a  little  every  year,  so  the    bay    is    constantly 

1 68 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

extending  along  the  coast,  and  the  upper  end  is  filling  in. 
The  shore  on  the  mainland  is  backed  by  a  line  of  hills  that 
are  covered  with  grass,  for  the  dense  forest  region  is  now 
left  behind,  and  thick  forest  is  only  to  be  found  along  the 
borders  of  the  streams.  The  rain-fall  here  is  not  more  than 
one-fifth  what  it  is  at  Eloby,  and  in  the  long,  dry  season, 
from  April  to  November,  the  country  near  the  sea  becomes 
parched  and  dusty.  In  the  interior  there  is  a  greater  rain- 
fall and,  consequently,  more  forest  and  richer  soil. 

The  Kisanga  came  to  anchor  at  four  o'clock  on  Tues- 
day afternoon,  and  in  about  an  hour  the  Portuguese  officials 
came  off,  and  after  examining  the  ship's  papers,  gave  per- 
mission for  passengers  to  go  ashore.  With  these  officials 
came  Mr.  Bannister,  an  English  trader,  who  was  well- 
known  to  our  friends,  being  like  them,  an  old  coaster.  He 
sat  and  talked  for  a  long  time,  and  then  invited  our  friends 
to  come  on  shore  and  spend  the  evening  ;  but  the}'  pre- 
ferred to  come  next  day,  so  it  was  arranged  that  they 
should  come  ashore  early  in  the  morning  and  spend 
the  day  looking  about  the  city.  The  evening  was  an  exceed- 
ingly beautiful  one,  but  the  air  was  cool,  and  sitting  so 
upon  the  deck,  our  friends  found  it  necessary  to  put  on  their 
heaviest  clothing,  and  hot  coffee  tasted  more  than  usually 
good  ;  indeed,  the  cool  breeze  from  the  South  Atlantic  quite 
chilled  them  through  by  and  by,  and  they  turned  in  nearly 
two  hours  earlier  than  usual.  During  the  night  they  were 
awakened  by  dreadful  groaning,  as  of  a  man  in  great 
agony  ;  they  had  heard  these  sounds  before,  so  they  waited 
quietly  and  it  was  not  long  before  they  heard  the  captain's 
voice  ordering  the  crew  and  deck  passengers  to  splash  on  the 
water  and  make  all  the  disturbance  they  could  to  drive  the 
fish  off ;  for  this  horrid  noise  is  made  by  a  large  fish,  some- 
thing like  a  sturgeon,  that  puts  its  head  against  the  vessels 
at  anchor,  and  then  makes  this  noise,  which  is  heard  dis- 
tinctly all  through  the  ship.      The  fish  having  been  seared 

169 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

away,  the  ship's  company  returned  to  their  dreams  and 
were  not  again  disturbed  during  the  night. 

By  sunrise  on  Wednesday  morning  the  four  old 
coasters  were  in  the  ship's  gig  and  pulling  away  for  the 
custom-house  landing,  three  miles  distant.  The  sandy 
reef  which  shelters  the  bay  is  covered  with  cocoa  palms, 
and  the  wealthier  citizens  of  Loanda  spend  the  summer 
season  here  for  the  sake  of  the  cool  ocean  breezes.  On 
arriving  at  the  landing-place  a  few  words  of  explanation 
made  all  right  with  the  customs  officials,  and  our  friends 
were  at  liberty  to  go  where  they  liked,  while  the  boat 
returned  to  the  Kisanga. 

The  city  of  St.  Paul  de  L,oanda  was  settled  nearly  four 
hundred  years  ago.  It  grew  rapidly  and  soon  became  of 
considerable  importance  ;  large  and  expensive  buildings 
were  erected,  a  fort,  governor's  palace,  bishop's  palace, 
cathedral,  theatre,  bank,  stores,  ware-houses,  and  a  large 
number  of  private  dwellings.  Then  came  the  decadence 
of  Portuguese  power,  the  city  was  made  a  penal  colony,  and 
its  prosperity  departed.  Within  the  past  few  years  a 
change  has  taken  place  for  the  better  ;  the  activity  in 
African  exploration  and  development  has  stirred  the  city  into 
new  life  ;  more  interest  is  taken  in  the  valuable  province, 
of  which  this  is  the  capital,  and  the  home  government  is 
trying  to  do  at  least  something  to  develop  its  resources,  and 
colonists  are  coining  out  in  small  numbers  to  seek  new 
homes  upon  the  virgin  lands  of  the  interior.  The  city 
contains,  perhaps,  thirty  thousand  inhabitants  ;  the  streets 
are  of  good  width  and  some  of  them  are  paved,  and  there  is 
a  large  public  square,  or  plaza,  where  the  people  congregate 
in  the  evening  to  hear  the  news  and  listen  to  the  military 
band,  which  discourses  very  creditable  music. 

The  usual  mode  of  getting  about  is  the  machela,  a 
kind  of  sedan  chair,  carried  by  two  stout  Portuguese.  This 
primitive  conveyance  allows  the    patient   to    sit    upright, 

170 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

provided  he  is  not  too  tall,  by  extending  his  legs  straight 
out  before  him  and  holding  on  to  both  sides  with  his 
hands,  so  that  he  may  not  be  spilled  out.  It  is  a  little 
better  than  a  hammock,  for  it  is  possible  to  hold  up  your 
head  and  look  around,  but  it  is  a  relic  of  the  dark  ages,  and 
should  be  done  away  with.  Street  car  lines  would  be 
patronized,  and  would  pay  well  ;  they  might  be  run  by 
electricity,  on  the  storage  principle,  and  the  power  to  run 
the  dynamos  could  be  furnished  by  the  strong  and  constant 
breezes  from  the  sea. 

Our  friends  walked  through  the  streets,  inspected  the 
shops,  and  visited  the  markets,  but  the  thing  that  interested 
"them  most  was  the  railway  to  the  interior.  We  do  not  look 
to  Portugal  to  lead  the  way  in  the  march  of  improvement, 
but  while  wealthier  nations  have  been  talking,  theorizing, 
and  holding  congresses  that  accomplish  nothing  except  on 
paper,  Portugal  has  gone  ahead  and  built  forty  miles  of 
railway,  and  is  working  away  on  the  second  forty  mile 
section.  It  is  a  goodly  sight  to  see  the  locomotive,  carriages 
and  railway  station,  and  the  double  line  of  glistening  rails 
converging  to  a  point  to  the  eastward,  and  our  friends 
lingered  long  about  the  station  feasting  their  eyes  upon 
the  welcome  sight  and  wondering  how  soon  iron  bands 
would  span  the  continent  and  baggage  be  checked  through 
to  Zanzibar. 

Leaving  our  friends  to  enjoy  themselves  at  the  station, 
let  us  take  a  momentary  glance  at  the  Province  of  Angola, 
of  which  St.  Paul  de  Loanda  is  the  principal  city.  This 
province  extends  from  the  mouth  of  the  Congo  to  the 
German  settlement  of  Angina  Pequina ;  it  reaches  half 
way  across  the  continent  and  is  one  of  the  most  desirable 
regions  upon  the  whole  earth.  Except  upon  the  immediate 
sea  coast,  it  is  well  watered  and  fertile,  and  it  is  doubtful 
if  any  considerable  section  of  the  United  States  is  so  highly 
favored  in  both  soil  and  climate.     The  Congo  Free  State 

'7i 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

has  absorbed  most  of  the  low,  level  land  along  the  Congo 
and  its  affluents,  leaving  to  Angola  the  hill  country,  which 
is  as  healthful  as  the  uplands  of  Georgia  and  possesses  a 
far  richer  soil.  Throughout  this  favored  region  almost 
every  product  of  the  earth  will  grow  ;  palms  and  bananas 
in  the  valleys,  apples  and  wheat  on  the  higher  lands.  It  is 
in  many  respects  the  counterpart  of  the  Soudan,  but  the 
climate  is  somewhat  cooler. 

The  Portuguese  colonies  have  not  usually  been  con- 
sidered desirable  for  Anglo-Saxon  emigrants,  but  there  can 
be  but  little  doubt  that  favorable  arrangements  could  be 
made  with  the  home  government,  and  if  this  were  done, 
Angola  would  present  a  far  more  inviting  field  for  settle- 
ment than  Brazil  or  Argentine.  These  two  latter  countries 
have  governments  and  social  institutions  firmly  established, 
and  these  are  by  no  means  favorable  to  the  foreign  element 
coming  among  them  in  the  form  of  German,  Scandinavian 
and  Irish  immigrants  ;  but  in  Angola,  which  is  as  yet  a  new 
country,  immigrants  could  mould  public  opinion  so  as  in  a 
good  degree  to  conform  to  their  tastes  and  religious  ideas, 
and  would  be  far  better  off  than  to  settle  in  the  American 
countries.  Nor  is  Angola  so  far  from  the  great  centres  of 
population  in  Europe,  for  a  vessel  of  the  City  of  Paris  type 
can  make  the  voyage  from  Plymouth  to  St.  Paul  quite 
easily  in  eleven  days  ;  this  is  so  short  a  time  that  almost 
every  kind  of  produce  except  the  more  perishable  vegetables 
could  be  sent  from  Angola  to  London  without  difficult}-. 

South  of  St.  Paul  de  Loanda  are  the  ports  of  Benguela 
and  Mosemmedes,  both  of  which  have  a  considerable  trade 
with  the  interior.  One  of  the  principal  exports  from  these 
towns  is  live  cattle,  which  are  now  sent  to  Gaboon  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  and  the  trade  is  increasing  even-  year. 
There  are  also  valuable  fisheries,  for  the  current  from  the 
South  Atlantic  brings  cool  water,  and  the  fish  are  not  only 
abundant,   but  of  excellent  quality   also.     These  fish  are 

172 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

dried  and  find  a  ready  market  in  all  the  ports  north  of  the 
Congo ;  the  writer  has  purchased  many  large  casks  of 
them  to  feed  to  his  Km  boys  and  other  native  people. 

One  of  the  popular  industries  of  Angola  at  the  present 
time  is  coffee  planting,  and  there  are  many  estates  along 
the  line  of  railway,  and  even  farther  in  the  interior.  The 
bean  is  a  small  one,  quite  distinct  from  the  Liberian 
variety,  and  many  thousands  of  bags  of  this  coffee  are  now 
exported  annually.  As  the  price  of  coffee  has  greatly 
advanced,  and  is  likely  to  remain  high  for  some  years,  the 
business  is  a  profitable  one,  and  the  planters  are  making 
small  fortunes  for  themselves.  Another  industry  is  the 
collection  of  paper  stock.  This  stock,  or  fibre,  as  it  is 
called,  is  the  inner  bark  of  the  Baobab  tree,  and  sells  in 
Liverpool  for  eleven  pounds  sterling  a  ton.  The  removal  of 
this  fibre  causes  the  tree  no  harm,  for  it  proceeds  to  envelope 
itself  in  another  robe,  which  may  in  time  be  also  removed. 
One  of  these  days  some  enterprising  Yankee  will  build  a 
paper  mill  along  the  railway  in  the  interior  of  Angola  and 
ship  paper  to  Europe  instead  of  the  fibre. 

Angola  might  grow  thousands  of  tons  of  the  best 
quality  of  figs,  and  before  many  years  they  may  become  an 
important  source  of  revenue.  The}'  will  grow  almost 
anywhere  throughout  the  province,  and  the  long  dry  season 
will  be  most  favorable  for  curing  them.  A  very  superior 
article  may  be  produced  by  drying  them  in  some  of  the 
patent  evaporators  made  in  America  ;  these  evaporated  figs 
are  far  superior  to  the  common  sun-dried  ones  that  come 
from  Syria.  Oranges  also  of  the  finest  quality  here  grow 
to  perfection,  and  as  the  season  is  the  very  opposite  of  the 
Mediterranean  countries,  they  would  come  into  market 
during  the  season  of  scarcity  and  bring  good  prices. 

About  eleven  o'clock  Mr.  Schiff  complained  of  feeling 
hungry,  so  the  quartette  turned  their  steps  toward  Mr. 
Bannister's  house,  and  it  was  not  long  before  they  were 

173 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

invited  to  sit  down  to  a  first-class  breakfast.  Mr.  Schiff 
inquired  about  .the  railway,  and  was  informed  that  it  was 
intended  to  run  first  to  Ambaca,  then  to  Kassanshe,  and 
eventually  across  the  continent  to  the  Portuguese  posses- 
sions on  the  Zambesi.  Ambaca  and  Kassanshe  are  great 
market  towns,  where  the  coffee,  peanuts,  rubber,  gum 
copal,  beeswax,  archilla  weed  and  ivory  are  brought  for 
exchange  for  European  manufactures.  Hitherto  these 
products  were  carried  on  men's  heads  either  to  the  coast  or 
to  some  point  on  the  Coanza  river,  and  from  thence  to 
Loanda  by  river  steamer,  but  when  the  railway  was  com- 
pleted it  would  bring  all  this  produce  to  the  coast  far 
quicker  and  cheaper.  Mr.  Bannister  also  informed  our 
friends  that  there  were  valuable  mines  of  copper  and 
malachite  not  far  from  the  line  of  the  road,  and  that  large 
fortunes  would  probably  be  made  in  working  these  mines  ; 
besides  they  would  furnish  much  tonnage  for  the  railway. 
In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Bannister  took  his  guests  for  a 
short  drive  in  the  country.  They  found  the  ground  rather 
rockv,  and  as  this  was  near  the  close  of  the  dry  season,  it 
appeared  bare  and  barren.  Mr.  Bannister  told  them  the 
rains  would  soon  change  all  this  and  cover  the  bare  soil 
with  a  rich  coating  of  fine  grass.  A  great  many  crows 
were  seen  flying  about,  and  these,  instead  of  being  a  uniform 
black,  were  half  white,  giving  them  a  grotesque  appear- 
ance. Toward  evening  Captain  Thompson  came,  and  after 
dinner  they  all  went  to  the  square  to  hear  the  band  play. 
The  Portuguese  ladies  were  out  in  full  force,  and  were  the 
object  of  much  attention  from  the  bachelor  part}'.  Mr. 
Schiff  grew  enthusiastic  at  the  sight,  and  wished  to  make 
love  to  the  fair  maidens,  but  was  restrained  by  his  more 
conservative  companions.  It  was  indeed  a  pleasant  sight, 
emblematic  of  what  will  soon  be  seen  in  hundreds  of  towns 
and  cities  in  this  fair  land.  After  an  hour  spent  on  the 
square  the  party  returned  to  Mr.  Bannister's,  where  they 

174 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

sat  talking  and  smoking  until  a  late  hour,  when  they  went 
once  more  across  the  lovely  bay  to  their  floating  home. 

The  city  of  Loanda  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  great 
cities  of  the  earth.  There  is  nothing  to  prevent  its  becoming 
the  peer  of  Bombay  or  Calcutta.  It  has  a  much  better 
harbor  than  Calcutta,  with  a  more  valuable  country  behind 
it  than  Bombay,  and  when  railways  shall  have  been  built, 
as  they  soon  will  be,  all  through  the  Congo  Valley  and  to 
the  southeast  toward  the  Zambesi,  immigration  will  flow 
in  an  ever-increasing  tide,  and  the  province  of  Angola  will 
become  one  of  the  great  countries  of  the  world. 

The  Kisanga  steamed  out  of  the  beautiful  bay  of 
Loanda  at  4  a.  m.  Thursday,  and  at  nine  o'clock  anchored 
at  Ambriz,-  forty  miles  north  of  St.  Paul.  This  is  a  small 
Portuguese  town  near  the  banks  of  the  Loge  river,  which 
is  navigable  for  canoes  for  a  short  distance  in  the  interior. 

By  the  decisions  of  the  Berlin  Conference  the  territorv 
north  of  the  Loge  river,  while  it  belongs  to  Portugal,  is 
included  in  what  is  called  the  Free  Trade  Zone,  and  no 
duties  here  can  be  levied  ;  as  Ambriz  is  on  the  borders  of 
this  Zone,  it  will  not  possess  much  commercial  importance. 
There  is  a  large  iron  pier  extending  through  the  breakers 
to  the  calmer  water,  so  that  passengers  may  embark  with- 
out the  certainty  of  a  wetting.  The  character  of  the 
country  is  just  the  same  as  it  is  about  Loanda. 

The  Kisanga  did  not  remain  long  at  Ambriz,  and  after 
lunch  she  steamed  away  to  the  northward,  anchoring  before 
Kinsembo  at  5  P.  M.  This  is  an  English  trading  station, 
and  the  gentlemen  from  the  factories  came  off  to  get  their 
mail  and  hear  the  news.  Captain  Thompson  invited  them 
to  remain  to  dinner,  which  they  did,  and  spent  tin-  evening 
also.  They  informed  our  friends  that  the  country  was 
healthy  for  Europeans,  and  that  nearly  all  our  home  vege- 
tables grew  well,  especially  those  of  a  semi-tropical  nature, 
such  as  melons,  cucumbers,  squashes,  eggplants,  tomatoes, 

175 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

lima-beans  and  corn.  They  said  that  near  the  coast  the  soil 
was  somewhat  sandy  and  dry,  but  that  back  in  the  interior 
among  the  hills,  the  soil  was  fertile,  and  there  was  much 
more  rain.  Hills  several  hundred  feet  in  height  were  in 
sight  from  the  steamer,  and  the  traders  said  that  these  hills 
extended  for  a  long  distance  to  the  eastward,  and  that  very 
rich  copper  mines  were  found  there. 

A  long  time  ago  a  considerable  amount  of  copper  ore 
was  brought  by  the  native  people  to  the  factories  for  sale. 
This  ore  was  nearly  pure,  and  of  course,  very  valuable. 
By  and  by  the  traders  began  to  inquire  the  location  of 
these  mines,  and  seemed  so  bent  upon  investigating  them 
that  the  native  chiefs  became  alarmed,  and  ordered  the 
mines  closed  and  no  more  ore  to  be  sold  the  factories,  fear- 
ing the  white  men  would  come  out  in  force  and  take  the 
country  from  them  for  the  sake  of  this  "  red  metal."  The 
time  has  now  passed  by  when  the  negro  can  keep  this 
favored  land  all  to  himself,  and  it  would  be  good  for  the 
country  if  mining  companies  would  send  out  engineers 
and  miners  to  open  up  these  rich  copper  mines,  and  smelt 
it  into  metal  upon  the  spot.  It  is  very  likely  that  if  the 
hills  were  carefully  inspected,  gold  and  silver,  as  well  as 
copper,  would  be  found  in  abundance.  These  mines  being 
in  the  Free  Trade  Zone  the  Portuguese  could  interpose  no 
obstacle  to  the  successful  prosecution  of  mining  enterprises. 

But  the  hills  of  the  interior  are  worth  as  much  for 
coffee  estates  as  they  are  for  the  copper  and  malachite  they 
contain.  The  summits  of  these  hills  will  be  choice  sites 
for  houses  for  industrious  German,  Scotch  and  Swedish 
colonists,  who  may  live  here  in  peace  and  plenty,  surrounded 
with  every  luxury  that  earth  can  yield.  The  coming  century 
will  witness  these  fertile  lands,  which  can  now  be  had  for 
the  taking,  selling  in  the  open  market  for  a  hundred  dollars 
an  acre.     These  lands  have  not  been  exhausted  bv  centuries 


176 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

of  cultivation,  and  are  ready  to  yield  rich  harvests  to  those 
who  are  willing  to  cultivate  them. 

Next  morning  the  Kinsembo  traders  landed  their 
cargo,  and  at  noon  the  Kisanga  sailed  to  the  northward, 
keeping  the  shore-line  in  view,  and  at  sundown  anchored 
off  Ambrizette,  another  English  trading  station  in  the 
Portuguese  Free  Trade  Zone,  and  just  south  of  the  Ambri- 
zette river.  As  the  surf  was  high  that  evening,  owing  to 
a  strong  sea  breeze,  the  Ambrizette  traders  did  not  come 
off,  and  our  friends  spent  a  quiet  evening  under  the  awning 
on  deck  watching  the  lights  on  shore  and  talking  of  the 
splendid  future  this  fair  Province  has  in  store,  and  which 
must  soon  be  realized. 

Said  Mr.  King :  "  I  have  been  carefully  examining 
the  map,  and  I  am  persuaded  a  railway  from  here  up  the 
valley  of  the  Ambrizette  River,  and  thence  across  the 
country  to  the  Kuango,  or  White  Water  River,  would  be 
an  exceedingly  profitable  enterprise,  especially  if  it  could 
obtain  a  land  grant  from  the  Portuguese  government,  as  I 
have  no  doubt  it  could.  The  Congo,  as  you  know,  is 
unhealthy  as  far  up  as  Stanley  Pool,  a  fact  well  known  to 
the  natives  who  have  left  the  valley  of  the  river  during 
this  part  of  its  course,  and  have  removed  to  the  healthy  hill 
country  through  which  this  line  of  railway  would  run. 
The  White  Water  River  is  navigable,  and  empties  into  the 
Congo  a  long  distance  above  Stanley  Pool,  so  that  goods 
could  be  conveyed  to  all  parts  of  the  Congo  System  as 
readily  in  this  way  as  by  the  Congo  itself,  and  with  the 
advantage  of  going  through  a  healthy  country  all  the  way. 
But  what  appears  to  me  to  be  of  even  more  importance,  is 
the  fact  that  the  entire  length  of  the  Hue  would  run 
through  a  country  admirably  adapted  for  European  colo- 
nists. There  are  no  engineering  difficulties,  the  road  would 
be  comparatively  inexpensive,  and  there  is  nothing  to 
prevent  its  construction  being  entered  upon  at  once.      It 

xii  177 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

would  not  be  five  years  after  its  completion  before  the 
country  would  begin  to  settle  up  rapidly,  bringing  its 
lands  into  market,  and  it  would  have  all  it  could  do  to  take 
the  cargo  and  passengers  up  country  and  bring  the  pro- 
duce down.  The  sale  of  its  lands  would  almost  or  quite 
pay  for  the  construction  and  equipment,  leaving  the  earn- 
ings of  the  line  to  pay  the  running  expenses  and  dividends 
to  the  stockholders." 

"  How  long  would  such  a  line  need  to  be?"  inquired 
Mr.  Sinclair. 

"About  three  hundred  miles,"  replied  Mr.  King, 
"  which  is  but  little  more  than  the  length  of  the  railway 
now  being  built  around  the  falls  of  the  Congo." 

"Does  that  road  have  any  land  grant? "asked  Mr. 
Schiff. 

"  It  not  only  has  no  land  grant,"  responded  Mr.  King, 
"  but  it  runs  through  a  barren  gorge  among  the  hills,  and 
can  hope  to  have  only  through  traffic,  while  the  road  I 
propose  would  soon  have  a  local  traffic  sufficient  to  pay  all 
operating  expenses,  and  as  good  a  chance  for  through 
traffic  as  the  Congo  Valley  Line.  Just  think  of  the  amount 
of  rice,  sugar,  tobacco,  cotton,  coffee,  cacao,  spices,  yams, 
sweet  potatoes,  oranges,  limes  and  lemons  that  could  be 
raised  within  fifty  miles  on  either  side  of  this  road,  all  of 
which  would  need  to  be  hauled  to  the  coast  for  shipment, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  forest  products.  I  tell  you  it  would 
not  be  long  before  this  road  would  need  to  be  double- 
tracked." 

"  I  have  no  doubt,"  remarked  Mr.  Alexander,  "  that 
all  this  you  say  is  true,  and  far  more.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  that  this  is  a  country  rich  in  natural  resources,  and 
I  am  amazed  that  it  has  not  been  settled  before  by  white 
colonists." 

"  One  great  difficulty  has  been,"  observed  Mr.  Sinclair, 
"  that  people  at  home  have  never  looked  upon  Africa  as  a 

178 


ST.    THOMAS  :     ANGOLA. 

possible  home  for  the  European.  Their  only  knowledge 
of  the  continent  has  come  from  travelers'  tales,  mostly  of 
the  blood-and-thunder-dwarf -cannibal-rearguard  variety,  and 
they  do  not  know  that  it  is  the  fairest  land  on  which  the  sun 
shines.  There  are  just  as  depraved  people  in  London  as 
there  are  in  this  land,  and  there  is  no  crime  committed  here 
that  cannot  be  matched  in  that  city." 

"  Yes,"  responded  Air.  King,  "  and  the  same  may  be 
said  of  America.  There  are  many  large  districts,  some  of 
them  in  the  older  States,  where  life  is  far  more  insecure 
than  it  is  anywhere  in  this  land.  I  have  lived  in  Africa 
the  greater  part  of  the  past  fifteen  years,  and  I  would  rather 
trust  myself  to  its  people,  even  in  remote  districts,  than  to 
attempt  to  reside  in  Eastern  Kentucky,  within  a  compara- 
tively short  distance  of  the  National  Capital." 

"  In  speaking  of  the  tonnage  of  this  new  railway,"  said 
Air.  Alexander,  "  you  have  said  nothing  of  minerals." 

"  That  is  true,"  replied  Mr.  King,  "  they  will  form  an 
important  and  profitable  item  of  freight.  There  are  many 
rich  copper  mines  in  the  hills,  and  one  of  them  is  no  more 
than  six  miles  from  the  factories.  If  coal  should  be  dis- 
covered in  the  hills,  it  would  make  traffic  enough  for  one 
line  just  of  itself.  All  the  steamers  that  visit  the  South 
Atlantic  need  coal,  and  would  be  obliged  to  come  here  and 
get  it,  and  this  would  surely  grow  to  be  a  large  business." 

The  conversation  was  not  continued  as  late  in  the 
evening  as  usual,  for  the  sea-breeze  made  it  most  too  cool 
to  sit  on  deck  with  comfort,  and  so  the  four  friends  (Mr. 
King  would  not  take  any)  had  a  nip  of  bitters,  and  retired 
to  their  rooms  for  the  night. 

The  next  morning  the  Ambrizette  traders  came  off  for 
their  letters  and  the  day  was  spent  in  landing  Kru-boys 
and  cargo,  and  at  sundown  the  Kisanga  left  her  anchorage, 
and  steamed  awav  toward  the  northward. 


179 


Chapter  IX 


VALLEY  OF  THE  CONGO. 


AT  sunrise  on  Saturday  morning  the  appearance  of 
the  water  indicated  plainly  the  presence  of  some 
great  river,  for  not  only  did  sprouts  from  the 
mangrove,  and  leaves  from  the  pandanus  float 
past  the  ship,  but  the  deep  blue  of  the  ocean  had  changed 
to  a  dirty  brown,  and  the  water  was  thick  with  the  great 
amount  of  alluvium  it  held  in  suspension.  As  soon  as  it 
was  light  enough  to  make  out  the  land  clearly,  the  Kisanga 
turned  her  prow  to  the  eastward  and  began  to  stem  the 
current  of  the  mighty  Congo.  The  opening  of  the  river 
could  now  be  distinctly  seen  ;  on  the  star-board  bow  was 
Shark's  Point,  and  seven  miles  to  the  northward  Banana 
Point  with  the  white  factory  buildings  showing  plainly 
against  the  background  of  the  deep  green  forest. 

Unlike  other  African  rivers,  the  Congo  has  no  delta 
but  empties  by  one  broad  mouth  into  the  sea,  driving  its 
muddy  current  right  through  the  clear  ocean  water  to  a 
distance  of  many  leagues.  The  Kisanga  pushed  her  way 
steadily  forward,  and  rounding  Banana  Point,  came  to 
anchor  off  the  factories  in  Banana  Creek.  This  creek  is  a 
narrow,  muddy  channel,  separating  Banana  Point  from  a 
low  island  covered  with  mangroves.     The  factories  were 

1 80 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

large  wooden  buildings,  closely  grouped  together,  for  the 
point  is  narrow  and  there  is  no  room  to  spare.  There  is 
scarcely  any  shade,  and  no  attempt  to  make  the  settlement 
beautiful ;  it  is  given  up  wholly  to  business,  with  the  sea 
on  one  side  and  the  muddy  creek  and  low  mangrove  island 
on  the  other — by  no  means  an  attractive  spot.  This  then 
is  the  port-of-entry,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  great 
Congo  Free  State.  Future  explorations  may  discover 
somewhere  on  the  lower  course  of  the  Congo  a  site  for  a 
commercial  city,  but  if  it  be  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river 
it  will  be  the  territory  of  another  nation,  for  Portugal  owns 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  farther  up  than  ocean  steamers 
can  ascend. 

This  magnificent  river,  which  drains  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  fertile  regions  of  the  earth,  will  probably  never 
have  a  large  commercial  city  near  its  mouth.  As  heavy 
draft  ocean  steamers  cannot  ascend  it  fifty  miles  from  the 
sea,  it  is  altogether  probable  that  the  greater  part  of  its 
commerce  will  come  by  rail  to  various  points  on  the  coast, 
both  north  and  south  of  its  mouth,  where  there  is  abundant 
room  for  cities,  and  where  ocean  steamers  may  come 
alongside  piers  and  receive  the  produce  direct  from  the 
railway  cars. 

Moreover  the  course  of  the  river  is  such  that  the 
southern  affluents  may  be  more  easily  reached  by  a  railway 
from  Ambrizette  ;  and  the  northern  affluents  by  a  railway 
from  Batanga,  than  either  of  these  can  be  from  ascending 
the  Congo  itself.  A  railway  due  east  from  Batanga  to  the 
Albert  Nyanza,  a  distance  of  fifteen  hundred  miles,  would 
cross  the  most  of  the  navigable  affluents  of  the  Congo  from 
the  north  ;  and  a  railway  from  Ambrizette  to  Lake  Tan- 
ganika,  a  distance  of  twelve  hundred  miles,  would  cross  all 
the  southern  affluents  near  the  head  of  navigation  of  each 
of  them,  and  would  run  through  a  magnificent  country  fit 
to  be  the  abode  of  millions  of  our  own  race. 

181 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

In  our  own  country  but  a  small  portion  of  the  products 
of  our  great  Central  Valley  find  their  way  through  the 
mouths  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf ;  the  great  bulk  of 
these  products  being  carried  by  railways  to  the  various 
Atlantic  sea-ports.  If  this  is  true  in  regard  to  our  own 
great  river,  how  much  more  wrill  it  be  of  the  Congo,  which 
is  so  full  of  falls  and  rapids  near  the  sea,  as  to  be  totally 
unnavigable  ?  We  may  reasonably  expect  that  but  a  small 
portion  of  the  products  of  the  immense  and  fertile  territory 
drained  by  the  Congo  will  ever  pass  Banana  Point. 

Our  friends  went  on  shore  at  Banana  and  visited  the 
various  factories ;  they  found  them  much  the  same  as  in 
the  Bonny  River,  except  that  they  were  closer  together, 
and  built  so  as  to  economize  room.  The  agents  told  them 
that  trade  was  not  so  good  as  formerly  ;  not  but  that  as 
much  produce  was  received,  as  was  the  case  years  ago,  but 
the  prices  were  higher,  the  market  rates  in  Europe  lower, 
and  the  expense  of  collecting  greater.  In  former  times  the 
native '  people  brought  the  produce  from  the  interior  to 
Banana  for  exchange,  just  as  they  now  bring  it  to  Duke- 
town,  in  the  Old  Calabar  River ;  but  now  they  are  obliged 
to  go  up  the  river  after  it,  and  then  pay  higher  prices. 
They  admitted  the  new  order  of  things  might  bring  pros- 
perity to  the  country,  but  they  saw  in  this  result  small 
comfort  for  themselves.  Already  their  factories  had  become 
little  else  than  receiving  and  forwarding  stations,  and  soon 
they  would  be  reduced  to  the  position  of  mere  warehouses 
— a  stepping-stone  in  the  march  of  commerce  from  the  rich 
valleys  of  the  interior  to  the  markets  of  Europe. 

The  Kisanga's  passengers  made  a  short  stay  at  the 
factories,  and  soon  wended  their  way  to  the  hotel,  where  a 
good  breakfast  put  them  in  a  comfortable  frame  of  mind 
and  made  the  outlook  for  the  future  appear  in  a  more 
cheerful  light  than  when  listening  to  the  complaints  of  the 
factory  people.     They  recognized  this  as  a  transition  period 

182 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

from  the  old  ways  to  the  new ;  a  transition  that  might  not 
greatly  benefit  the  Banana  factories,  but  which  would  bring 
a  greater  measure  of  prosperity  to  the  country,  and,  in  the 
end,  greater  profit  to  the  commercial  firms  themselves, 
although  this  profit  would  not  be  earned  at  Banana,  but  at 
many  new  points  up  the  river.  They  also  began  to  see 
clearly  that  the  best  pathway  to  the  Congo  Valley  was  not 
up  the  Congo  itself,  but  from  points  on  the  coast  where 
there  was  abundant  room  for  cities  and  sufficient  anchorage 
for  ships. 

The  great  Congo  Valley  is,  perhaps,  take  it  all  in  all, 
the  richest  in  natural  resources,  and  the  most  highly 
favored  of  any  region  of  the  earth  of  like  extent.  The 
larger  portion  of  this  vast  territory  is  included  in  the  Congo 
Free  State,  but  very  considerable  portions  also  belong  to 
Portugal,  France  and  Germany.  Through  the  centre  of 
this  region  flows  the  mighty  Congo,  with  manylarge  fresh 
water  lakes  upon  the  eastern  and  southeastern  border. 
The  greater  portion  of  this  central  plain  is  an  elevated 
plateau,  and  all  around  the  rim  are  hills  and  mountains. 
From  the  hills  encircling  this  vast  basin  come  the  affluents 
of  the  Congo,  and  embosomed  among  the  mountains  are 
the  great  lakes  already  mentioned.  A  range  of  low  moun- 
tains near  the  sea-coast  interrupts  navigation  by  filling  the 
river  with  cascades  and  rapids  for  a  distance  of  nearly  three 
hundred  miles  of  its  course.  This  apparently  unfortunate 
state  of  affairs  is  really  a  blessing,  for  it  gives  the  central 
valley  a  considerable  elevation,  which  in  this  equatorial 
region  is  a  matter  of  much  importance.  It  is  true  it  inter- 
rupts navigation,  but  our  experience  in  America  of  railway, 
as  against  water  communication,  shows  us  that  this  is  a 
triffling  matter.  While  river  steamers  may  not  descend  to 
the  sea,  there  is  yet  more  than  five  thousand  miles  of  inland 
navigation  connected  with  the  main  river,  besides,  in  the 
aggregate,  several  thousand  miles  of  navigation  of  affluents 

183 


VALLEY    OF   THE   CONGO. 

above  the  falls  that  they  each  have,  not  far  from  their 
debouchure  into  the  main  river. 

The  great  central  valley  of  the  Congo,  while  it  is  upon 
a  plateau,  is ,  nevertheless  a  comparatively  flat  basin  of 
alluvial  soil.  Here  is  found  that  dense,  dark  forest  so 
eloquently  described  by  the  heroic  Stanley  ;  here  also  are 
the  dwarfs,  cannibals,  and  all  the  other  horrors  which 
travelers  delight  to  describe  to  a  gaping  world,  and  which 
has  led  the  unthinking  to  conclude  that  the  entire  con- 
tinent is  made  up  of  this  kind  of  nonsense.  It  is  not  sur- 
prising that  the  deep  forest,  stimulated  into  luxuriant 
growth  by  a  rich  soil,  abundant  moisture,  and  a  tropic  sun, 
should  develop  some  monstrosities,  just  as  is  the  case  in  the 
slums  of  London,  but  this  abnormal  condition  of  affairs  is 
confined  to  a  comparatively  limited  area ;  yet  it  is  doubt- 
less true  that  this  forest  region  in  the  central  basin,  will  be 
the  last  to  be  conquered  by  man  in  the  interest  of  civiliza- 
tion and  the  good  of  the  race. 

Immigration  and  colonization  will  follow  the  cool, 
open,  healthy,  hill  country,  which  is  more  accessible  from 
other  points  than  from  the  great  river  itself.  The  northern 
rim  of  the  great  basin  can  be  best  reached  by  a  railway 
from  Batanga  to  the  Albert  Nyanza  ;  from  the  northeast  by 
a  railway  now  being  built  by  the  Germans  from  the  East 
Coast  to  the  Victoria  Nyanza  ;  from  the  east  by  a  railway 
from  Zanzibar  to  the  Tanganika  ;  from  the  southeast  by 
the  Shire  River  and  Lake  Nyassa ;  but  the  best  route  of 
all,  and  the  one  to  be  first  tried  is  from  the  west,  by  a  rail- 
way from  Ambrizette  to  Lake  Tanganika.  This  latter 
route  runs  through  a  fertile,  healthy,  and  most  desirable 
country,  and  we  ma}-  reasonably  expect  to  see  a  large  influx 
of  settlers  by  this  route  in  a  very  few  years.  The  Congo 
Valley  is  almost  certain  to  be  thickly  settled  by  Europeans 
in  the  hill-country  which  encircles  it,  before  any  con- 
siderable progress  is  made  toward  the  cultivation  of  the 

184 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

flat  alluvial  basin  through  which  the  river  flows.  These 
deep  river  lands  can  at  present  be  best  cultivated  in  large 
estates  by  native  labor,  but  this  will  scarcely  be  done  until 
a  stronger  government  than  the  present  Congo  Free  State 
takes  possession  of  the  country. 

The  Congo  Free  State  is  a  novel  enterprise,  without 
precedent  in  the  history  of  the  world.  It  is  a  philanthropic 
effort  in  the  interest  of  free  trade  with  the  ultimate  pur- 
pose of  benefitting  the  manufacturers  of  Europe,  and 
making  a  market  for  their  wares.  The  idea  of  colonizing 
the  country  seems  to  have  been  absent  from  the  minds  of 
its  promoters,  and  no  adequate  provision  has  been  made 
for  such  a  contingency.  Mercantile  firms  may  indeed 
erect  their  factories  on  the  river  banks,  for  these  great 
firms  employ  hundreds  of  men  and  have  river  and  ocean 
steamers  at  their  command.  If  a  factory  is  threatened  by 
pigmies,  cannibals,  Arabs  or  whatnot,  by  means  of  their 
own  steamers  men  may  be  massed  to  resist  the  attack,  or 
the  goods  may  be  removed  until  the  disturbance  has 
quieted  down.  Not  so,  however,  with  the  colonist  who 
has  no  steamers  at  command,  and  whose  property  is  of 
such  a  nature  that  it  cannot  be  readily  removed.  Colonists 
must  have  a  strong  and  stable  government  to  protect  the 
law-abiding  and  be  a  terror  to  evil  doers.  A  new  country 
also  needs  a  government  that  is  both  able  and  willing  to 
spend  a  large  amount  of  money  in  improvements  that  are 
necessary  to  open  up  the  country  and  make  its  resources 
available  ;  this  a  mere  philanthropic  enterprise  can  hardly 
be  expected  to  do. 

The  best  disposition  that  could  be  made  of  the  Congo 
Free  State  would  be  to  pass  it  over  to  the  United  States  of 
America,  together  with  the  neighboring  province  of  Angola. 
There  is  not  a  country  in  the  world  that  would  display 
more  energy  in  developing  the  resources  of  this  valuable 
territory,  and    fitting   it  to   be   the    home    of    millions    of 

185 


VALLEY    OF    THE    CONGO. 

civilized  and  Christian  people,  than  the  United  States. 
The  American  people  have  just  conquered  the  greater  part 
of  the  North  American  continent,  and  they  are  thus  fitted 
to  conquer  a  portion  of  Africa  and  prepare  it  for  the  abode 
of  the  surplus  population  of  Christendom.  Nor  need  other 
nations  be  aroused  to  jealousy,  for  they  have  each  of  them 
all  the  territory  in  Africa  they  can  possibly  develop.  This 
is  no  time  to  legislate  for  the  petty  trade  of  a  dozen  or  two 
of  commercial  firms,  when  a  vast  territory  capable  of  sup- 
porting two  hundred  millions  of  people  needs  opening  up 
to  the  emigration  of  the  Christian  wrorld  ! 

On  Monday  evening,  October  27th,  the  Kisanga  left 
Banana  Creek  and  steamed  up  the  river  to  Ponta  da  Lenha 
to  deliver  some  cargo  to  the  factories  there.  The  Congo 
empties  by  one  clear  mouth  into  the  sea,  but  once  inside 
of  Banana  on  the  north,  and  Shark's  Point  on  the  south  it 
widens  to  more  than  twenty  miles,  the  greater  part  of 
which  is  composed  of  mud  islands  covered  with  mangroves, 
as  is  the  case  in  the  Niger  delta.  A  great  number  of 
narrow  channels,  or  creeks,  wind  in  labrinthine  confusion 
among  these  islands,  while  through  the  centre  sweeps  the 
resistless  flood  of  the  main  channel,  three  miles  in  width, 
with  a  five  to  six  knot  current.  The  Kisanga  pushed  her 
way  steadily  against  the  dark  brown  flood,  with  solid  walls 
of  mangroves  on  either  shore,  wThose  monotony  was  occa- 
sionally varied  by  the  waving  fronds  of  the  paluu  Even- 
half  mile  or  so,  narrow  openings  in  the  dense  wall  of  vege- 
tation disclosed  the  mouth  of  some  tortuous  creek  that 
connected  the  main  channel  with  the  net-work  of  side 
channels  and  back  creeks.  No  birds  were  seen  skimming 
over  the  surface  of  the  water,  no  monkeys  or  other  animals 
among  the  trees — all  animal  life  had  deserted  this  dreary 
region  except  man,  and  it  is  well  for  him  to  pass  through 
it  as  rapidly  as  possible. 


186 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

Three  hours  steaming  brought  the  ship  abreast  of  the 
factories  at  a  place  called  Kissanga  where  the  mangroves 
give  way  for  a  little  to  a  tall,  dense  forest  of  palms  and 
other  trees,  all  interwoven  with  vines  and  creepers.  Not 
a  native  house  was  to  be  seen,  and  one  wonders  where  the 
customers  are  to  come  from,  but  the  numerous  creeks  ex- 
tend back  to  the  main-land,  where  the  native  villages  are 
built  upon  level  grassy  or  rolling  country7.  Another  hour's 
steaming  brought  the  Kisanga  to  Ponta  da  Lenha,  thirty 
miles  from  Banana,  and  the  head  of  safe  navigation  for 
ocean  steamers.  Ponta  da  Lenha  is  a  trading  station  like 
Kissanga,  on  an  island  on  the  northern  side  of  the  main 
channel,  and  its  customers  reside  on  the  main-land  of  the 
right  bank,  as  those  of  Kissanga  do  on  the  left  bank. 

Immediately  above  Ponta  da  Lenha  the  main  channel 
is  blocked  with  islands,  and  the  passages  between  these 
islands  have  shifting  sand-banks  that  carry  a  variable 
depth  of  water  of  from  twelve  to  eighteen  feet.  It  seems 
probable  that  in  some  of  the  connecting  creeks  a  deep,  un- 
obstructed channel  will  yet  be  found,  but  even  if  there 
should  be,  the  river  above  has  so  many  rocks  and  counter- 
currents  that  it  will  scarcely  be  advisable  for  an  ocean 
steamer  to  go  higher  up  than  Ponta  da  Lenha. 

The  steamer  Kebinda,  belonging  to  Messrs.  Hatton  & 
Cookson,  was  found  to  be  at  anchor  at  Ponta  da  Lenha, 
and  when  the  Kisanga  arrived  she  was  ordered  to  get  up 
steam  and  proceed  up  river  to  Boma,  to  take  mails  and  also 
bring  down  any  produce  that  might  be  ready  to  ship.  At 
2  p.  M.  she  started,  and  Captain  Watkins  invited  our  friends 
to  go  with  him,  as  he  was  not  only  an  old  coaster,  but  an 
intimate  friend  of  Mr.  King.  Captain  Watkins  is  not  only 
a  thorough  seaman,  but  a  perfect  gentleman,  and  lie  was 
constantly  doing  something  for  the  comfort  of  his  guests, 
so  that  the  ride  was  most  enjoyable. 


187 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

The  Kebinda  left  promptly  at  2  p.  m.  and  crossed  at 
once  to  Draper  Island,  then  past  the  Heron  Bank  and 
presently  it  crossed  to  the  northern  side  of  the  main  chan- 
nel which  is  followed  all  the  way  up.  The  mangroves 
were  soon  left  behind,  and  their  dense,  dark  masses  gave 
place  to  palms,  bamboo,  pandanus  and  various  other  trees, 
and  in  some  cases  to  wide  fields  of  tall  water  grasses,  the 
favorite  feeding  ground  of  hippopotami  and  manati.  The 
river  was  still  filled  with  immense  islands  and  many 
parallel  channels  as  well  as  connecting  creeks,  but  by  five 
o'clock  the  hills  on  the  main-land  of  the  left  bank  could  be 
seen,  and  half  an  hour  later  the  highlands  about  Boma 
came  into  view,  and  at  6.30  p.  m.  the  Kebinda  anchored 
abreast  the  English  factory. 

Boma  is  quite  as  much  of  a  trade  centre  as  Banana, 
and  like  Banana  its  principal  importance  lays  in  the  fact 
that  it  is  a  stepping-stone  in  the  march  from  the  sea  to  the 
navigable  waters  of  the  interior.  The  country  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach  appears  to  be  a  succession  of  low  hills,  bare, 
or  covered  with  grass,  and  with  wooded  vales  between. 
The  town  itself  consists  of  a  number  of  trading  factories, 
the  Catholic  and  Protestant  Missions  and  the  buildings  of 
the  Congo  Free  State.  Upon  an  island  in  mid-stream 
there  are  vegetable  gardens  cultivated  by  the  factory  people, 
where  nearly  all  our  home  grown  vegetables  thrive,  as  in- 
deed the}-  do  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  Congo 
Valley. 

Boma  is  upon  the  main-land  of  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  at  the  head  of  what  might  be  called  the  "  inland 
delta  "  of  the  Conofo  ;  from  here  onward  to  the  interior  for 
several  hundred  miles  at  least,  the  river  flows  between  well 
defined  banks,  although  there  are  many  islands  in  mid- 
stream. 

Our  friends  went  ashore  to  Messrs.  Hatton  &  Cook- 
son's  factory,  where  the-  -vere  kindly  entertained,  and  it 

1S8 


VALLEY    OF   THE   CONGO. 

was  not  long  before  dinner  was  announced,  to  which  they 
did  ample  justice.  The  bill  of  fare  at  Boma  is  a  liberal 
one  ;  in  addition  to  the  long  list  of  imported  foods,  there 
are  beef,  mutton,  ducks,  chickens,  fish,  plantains,  bread- 
fruit, rice,  palm-chop  and  the  vegetables  from  the  gardens, 
besides  many  kinds  of  fruits.  This  does  not  hold  good  of 
the  barren  district  from  Vivi  to  Stanley  Pool,  a  distance  of 
over  two  hundred  miles,  where  provisions  are  scarce  and 
dear. 

Immediately  above  Boma  the  river  narrows  greatly 
and  the  current  is  so  swift  that  the  water  heaves,  boils  and 
hisses  as  it  rushes  past  the  points,  and  in  many  places 
forms  whirlpools  capable  of  swallowing  a  boat  or  canoe. 
Up  this  swift  and  dangerous  current  it  is  possible  to  force 
a  steamer  as  far  as  Vivi,  which  is  seven  hours  distance  from 
Boma  ;  but  it  is  dangerous  navigation.  Vivi  is  the  western 
terminus  of  the  railway  now  under  construction  around  the 
rapids  of  the  Congo.  The  eastern  terminus  will  be  at 
Stanley  Pool,  the  foot  of  inland  navigation  ;  and  the  len«th 
of  the  line  between  two  hundred  and  fifty  and  three  hundred 
miles.  It  will  be  an  expensive  road  to  build,  but  it  will 
be  profitable,  for  all  the  trade  of  the  river  must  of  necessity 
pass  over  it. 

After  dinner  the  travelers  seated  themselves  on  the 
veranda  on  the  leeward  side  of  the  house,  so  as  to  be  out  of 
reach  of  the  strong  draft  coming  up  river,  and  caused  by 
the  evening  sea-breeze,  and  as  they  enjoyed  their  cio-ars 
they  discussed  trade  questions  and  the  prospects  of  the  new 
railway.  It  was  soon  apparent  that  the  traders  had  no 
thought  beyond  exchanging  the  usual  "  cargo  "  for  forest 
products  with  the  negroes  of  the  interior.  They  had  no 
sympathy  with  the  colonization  of  the  country,  and  indeed 
they  had  never  thought  of  it.  They  were  true  conser- 
vatives, opposed  to  change,  even  for  the  better,    lest   the 

189 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

course    of    trade    should    be    changed    to    their    possible 
disadvantage. 

After  all,  we  cannot  wonder  at  the  conversation  of  the 
traders,  for  the  past  ten  years  have  witnessed  wonderful 
changes  on  the  Congo,  and  still  greater  changes  will  follow 
the  completion  of  the  railway,  and  a  century  from  now  it 
will  be  as  impossible  to  realize  that  the  present  state  of 
affairs  ever  existed,  as  it  is  now  impossible  for  us  as  we 
visit  the  great  city  of  Chicago  to  realize  that  a  century  ago 
it  was  a  far  greater  wilderness  than  the  Congo  Valley 
is  to-day. 

The  writer  first  resided  in  Africa  in  1875,  and  the  state 
of  the  Coast  was  so  different  then  from  what  it  is  now,  that 
as  he  looks  back  upon  it,  it  seems  to  be  only  a  dream  ;  so 
it  will  be  fifteen  years  from  now  ;  and  some  of  us  who  have 
in  the  past  traversed  its  rivers  and  forests  in  weariness  and 
pain,  will  yet  be  able  to  fly  along  over  its  surface  at  thirty 
miles  an  hour  while  we  look  out  of  the  window  at  the 
beautiful  panorama  of  hill  and  dale  as  we  sit  at  the  table 
and  enjoy  the  luxuries  of  the  season  "  done  to  a  turn  "  by 
a  skilled  white  cook  ! 

The  French  territory  comes  down  to  the  river  at 
Manyanga  and  continues  along  the  right  bank  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Bunga  River,  three  hundred  miles  above  Stanley 
Pool.  The  lake-like  expanse  known  as  Stanley  Pool  is  the 
beginning  of  inland  navigation  upon  the  great  river  and  its 
numerous  tributaries.  If  this  river  is  ever  to  create  a  city 
corresponding  to  our  own  New  Orleans,  it  will  be  here  at 
Stanley  Pool.  This  is  the  true  entre-port  of  the  Congo  ;  all 
the  stations  from  the  sea  to  this  point  being  mere  stepping- 
stones.  The  railroad  now  building  through  the  Congo 
o-oro-e  will  have  its  terminus  here,  where  freight  will  be 
unloaded  directly  into  river  steamers  for  transport  to  in- 
land points. 

190 


VALLEY    OF    THE    CONGO. 

Before  another  ten  years  has  passed  other  railways  will 
be  in  course  of  construction  from  here  to  the  Coast.  The 
French  have  a  splendid  opportunity  for  building  an  air-line 
entirely  through  their  own  territory  from  Brazzaville,  just 
above  Leopoldville,  to  Black  Point  on  the  Atlantic  coast, 
where  there  is  a  fair  anchorage  ground.  This  line  will  run 
through  a  rich  and  populous  hilly  upland,  well  adapted  to 
European  colonists,  and  which  will  furnish  a  large  amount 
of  local  traffic  both  in  passengers  and  freight.  The  length 
of  this  line  will  be  about  three  hundred  miles — a  hundred 
miles  shorter  than  the  river  route  to  Banana. 

Another  competing  route  will  be  from  Stanley  Pool 
to  Ambrizette  in  the  Portuguese  territory.  This  line  will 
be  about  four  hundred  miles  long,  very  nearly  the  same 
length  of  the  river  route,  but  there  will  be  one  less  handling 
of  freight  and  the  dangers  of  river  navigation  from   Ponta 

o  o  o 

da  Lenha  to  Vivi  will  be  avoided.  This  line,  like  the 
French  one,  will  run  through  a  healthy  and  fertile  region 
well  suited  for  white  settlers,  and  will  have  a  large  local 
traffic.  Both  the  French  and  Portuguese  lines  will  be 
easier  to  build  than  the  road  now  under  construction,  and 
are  likely  to  be  more  profitable,  especially  if  liberal  land- 
grants  could  be  obtained.  Either  of  these  roads  offers  a 
much  more  promising  investment  for  capital  than  dozens 
of  roads  now  being  constructed  in  the  United  States.  Both 
of  these  roads  might  run  lines  of  steamers  on  the  Upper 
Congo  to  make  sure  of  securing  the  freight  for  their  own 
line,  it  would  also  enable  them  to  contract  to  deliver 
freight  from  the  sea-board  to  any  point  on  the  navigable 
waters  of  the  Congo. 

The  scenery  about  Stanley  Pool  is  pleasing ;  high 
hills,  some  of  them  crowded  with  foreign  settlements,  and 
some  with  native  villages,  while  on  the  low-land  near  the 
river  a  dense  vegetation  attests  the  richness  of  the  soil. 
Kinshassa  Station  is  built  beneath  the  shade  of  magnificent 

i9r 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

trees  that  would  be  an  ornament  to  the  finest  park  in 
Europe. 

From  Stanley  Pool  all  the  way  up  to  Stanley  Falls, 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  main  river,  the  scenery  is 
extremely  beautiful.  There  is  nothing  in  America  to 
equal  it.  True,  it  is  a  wild  beauty,  and  sometimes  one 
wishes  there  were  large  plantations  and  more  evidences  of 
human  industry* ;  but  these  will  come  soon  enough,  and 
nothing  can  replace  the  wild  luxuriance  of  the  dense  trop- 
ical vegetation  which  crowds  every  inch  of  space  not 
actually  covered  by  the  water.  In  a  few  years  the  accumu- 
lated capital  of  the  industrious  millions  of  Europe  will 
combine  to  operate  large  plantations  of  rice  and  sugar-cane 
upon  these  rich  alluvial  lands,  using  the  native  as  well  as 
the  imported  Chinese  labor  under  the  direction  of  Anglo- 
Saxons,  and  the  railways  from  Stanley  Pool  will  be  taxed 
to  the  utmost  to  earn*  the  freight  to  the  coast. 

For  those  who  love  quiet  waters  and  the  beauties  of 
nature,  no  more  delightful  place  of  residence  can  be  found 
than  the  rivers  and  lakes  of  equatorial  Africa.  The  writer 
lived  for  four  years  upon  the  banks  of  the  Ogowe  River, 
which  in  its  general  features  is  much  like  the  Congo,  and  a 
more  comfortable  climate,  or  a  more  beautiful  home,  a 
lover  of  nature  need  not  want  to  enjoy. 

There  are  thousands  of  wealthy  people  who  have 
traveled  much  and  who  would  like  a  new  experience — 
something  that  w*ill  thrill  their  souls  with  pleasurable  ex- 
citement, afford  them  opportunities  for  telling  endless 
stories  to  their  friends,  and  remain  a  delightful  memory 
to  the  close  of  life  ;  let  such  take  a  trip  on  the  Congo,  and 
if  they  are  lovers  of  the  beautiful,  they  will  have  their  fill 
and  declare  that  the  half  was  not  told  them.  When  the 
railway  is  completed  to  Stanley  Pool,  so  that  not  more 
than  two  days  need  be  spent  on  the  lower  course  of  the 
river,  the  journey  can  be  made  with  very  slight  danger  to 

192 


VALLEY    OF    THE    CONGO. 

life ;  not  more,  if  indeed  as  much,  as  a  visit  to  India, 
China,  Brazil  or  the  West  Indies.  It  may  be  that  Cook 
will  soon  send  out  excursion  parties,  with  steamers  of  his 
own  to  take  them  up  the  Congo,  as  he  now  has  to  take 
them  up  the  Nile. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  shooting  would  find  many  at- 
tractions at  the  present  time  in  the  Congo  Valley  and  along 
its  tributary  streams.  Upon  the  land  are  the  lordly 
elephant,  fierce  leopard  and  many  varieties  of  smaller  cats, 
savage  buffalo  and  man-like  gorilla ;  together  with  herds 
of  wild  boar,  troops  of  monkeys  and  a  great  variety  of  deer 
and  antelope.  Upon  the  waters  are  hippopotami,  manati, 
crocodiles  and  almost  every  variety  of  water-bird ;  the 
sportsman  must  be  indeed  hard  to  please  who  would  not  be 
satisfied  here.  It  must  not,  however,  be  supposed  that  this 
opportunity  will  long  continue,  for  as  a  country  is  cleared 
of  its  jungle  and  brought  under  cultivation  the  game  will 
be  driven  farther  and  farther  away,  until  as  in  America,  it 
is  so  scarce  that  there  is  no  pleasure  in  seeking  it. 

In  regard  to  the  heat  of  the  Central  Congo  Region, 
authorities  will  differ.  The  writer  has  always  felt  the  heat 
more  than  the  gentlemen  with  whom  he  has  traveled  or 
been  associated,  but  even  he,  with  few  exceptions,  has  not 
suffered  severely  from  it.  Some  cold  blooded  persons  do 
not  feel  comfortably  warm  unless  dressed  in  medium  weight 
cassimers.  Stanley,  in  his  "Congo,"  says  (Vol.  n  ;  page 
314) :  "  For  three  months  of  the  year  it  is  positively  cold, 
and  during  the  rest  of  the  year  there  is  so  much  cloud,  and 
the  heat  is  so  tempered  by  the  South  Atlantic  breezes,  that 
we  seldom  suffer  from  its  intensity.  The  nights  are  cool, 
sometimes  even  cold,  and  a  blanket  is,  after  a  short  time, 
felt  to  be  indispensable  for  comfort.      * 

"  Clad  in  clothes  suitable  for  work,  an  European  could 
perform  as  much  work  on  the  Congo  as  he  could  in  Eng- 
land, provided  a  roof  or  awning  was  above  his  head." 

xiii  193 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 

Apropos  of  the  beauty  of  the  Upper  Congo  Valley,  it 
may  not  be  amiss  to  state  that  the  great  Arab  trader, 
Tippoo  Tib,  in  narrating  some  of  his  travels  to  Mr.  Stanley, 
said  :  "  He  had  passed  through  several  towns  which  took 
a  couple  of  hours  to  traverse,"  and  he  described  the  "  beauty 
of  savannah,  park  and  prairie  he  saw." 

Dr.  Schweinforth  says :  "  From  the  Welle  to  the 
residence  of  the  Monbuttu  King,  Munza,  the  way  leads 
through  a  country  of  marvelous  beauty,  an  almost  unbroken 
line  of  the  primitively  simple  dwellings  extending  on  either 
side  of  the  caravan  route." 

All  this  was  on  the  northern  affluents  of  the  Congo, 
and  directly  on  the  line  of  the  proposed  railway  from 
Batanga  to  the  Albert  Nyanza.  This  road,  when  completed, 
cannot  fail  to  be  profitable,  and  will  open  up  a  grand 
country,  not  only  to  commerce,  but  to  settlement  by  sturdy- 
German  and  other  colonists. 

Until  great  industrial  companies  shall  cultivate  the 
soil  and  set  the  native  people  to  work  in  a  systematic  way, 
the  principal  exports  will  be  in  native  forest  products,  and 
it  is  surprising  how  many  of  these  there  are.  First  of  all 
must  be  mentioned  the  oil  palm,  which  produces  the  palm 
oil  and  kernels  that  are  such  an  important  article  of  trade 
on  the  West  Coast.  In  some  places  there  are  entire  forests 
of  it,  while  it  everywhere  abounds  in  the  central  basin  and 
on  the  islands  in  the  main  river. 

Perhaps  the  next  most  valuable  article  is  rubber,  which 
is  abundant  in  the  thick,  heavy  forests.  Unfortunately  the 
natives  are  so  wasteful  and  thoughless  they  kill  the  vine 
when  getting  the  milk,  and  thus  destroy  the  goose  that  lays 
the  golden  egg.  It  would  well  repay  any  commercial 
company,  now  while  the  land  is  cheap,  to  plant  the  large 
rubber  tree  of  Brazil,  which  will  live  for  a  century  and 
yield  a  steady  harvest  of  rubber. 

194 


VALLEY    OF    THE    CONGO. 

Camwood  and  barwood,  with  other  dyes,  abound,  while 
ebony  and  other  valuable  cabinet  woods  are  found  on  the 
higher  grounds.  Many  trees  valuable  for  lumber  grow  near 
the  streams,  and  one  of  the  first  industries  to  be  immedi- 
ately profitable  after  the  completion  of  the  railway  will  be 
the  establishment  of  portable  sawmills  and  the  converting 
of  these  trees  into  lumber  for  building  purposes. 

Red  and  white  gum  copal  are  found  in  considerable 
quantities,  and  no  doubt  other  valuable  gums  will  be 
discovered.  Vegetable  oils  are  extracted  from  the  ground- 
nut, oil  berry  and  castor  bean.  Vast  forests  are  covered 
with  the  archilla  moss,  and  tobacco  of  the  best  quality  will 
grow  everywhere.  Beeswax  and  honey  are  collected  in 
large  quantities  ;  nutmeg,  ginger  and  other  spices  are  easily 
raised,  and  furs,  hides  and  skins  might  be  purchased  from 
the  native  hunters.  All  the  African  elephants  have  tusks, 
and  the  sale  of  ivory  will  bring  much  money  into  the 
country  for  some  years  yet. 

Among  the  products  immediately  available  are  fibres 
of  many  kinds,  to  be  manufactured  into  paper,  rope,  fine 
and  coarse  matting,  baskets,  etc.  This  may  be  gathered  in 
immense  quantities,  and  some  of  it  may  very  profitably  be 
manufactured  upon  the  spot.  The  list  need  not  be  extended, 
for  it  is  easy  to  see  there  is  already  enough,  if  it  can  be 
gathered,  to  tax  the  carrying  capacity  of  the  present  fleet 
of  river  steamers  to  the  very  utmost. 

The  Kebinda  spent  the  morning  of  the  28th  taking  on 
produce,  and  at  2  p.  M.  left  Boma,  and  arrived  at  Ponta  da 
Lenha  before  sunset.  The  casks  and  sacks  were  transferred 
to  the  Kisanga  the  next  morning,  and  in  the  afternoon  she 
steamed  down  to  Banana  and  anchored  in  her  old  berth  in 
Banana  Creek.  Several  of  the  traders  came  off  and  took 
dinner  with  Captain  Thompson,  and  in  the  evening  on  deck 
conversation   was  kept  up  until  a  late  hour,  hut  no  new 


i95 


VALLEY   OF   THE   CONGO. 


facts  were  brought  out,  and  we  will  not  repeat  it.  At 
sunrise  on  Thursday  morning  the  Kisanga  steamed  out  of 
the  Congo,  and  soon  the  mighty  river  was  left  behind  as 
the  good  ship  sped  northward  along  the  Coast. 


196 


Chapter  X 


CONGO  RIVER  TO  GABOON. 


AT  1 1  a.  M.  on  Thursday,  October  30th,  the  Kisanga 
anchored  in  Kebenda  Bay,  forty  miles  north  of 
the  Congo.  Kebenda  has  long  been  the  head- 
quarters of  two  or  three  large  trading  firms  in  the 
Congo,  who  preferred  to  have  their  headquarters  here 
rather  than  at  Banana,  for  there  was  not  only  a  larger 
local  trade,  but  the  climate  was  healthier.  Kebenda  is  as 
unlike  Banana  as  two  places  could  be ;  the  land  is  high, 
and  even  hill)- ;  country  quite  open  and  covered  mostly 
with  grass,  with  trees  along  the  streams,  and  the  native 
population  much  larger  than  in  the  Lower  Congo  Valley. 
Mr.  John  Phillips,  the  accomplished  and  gentlemanly 
agent  of  Messrs.  Hatton  &  Cookson,  was  alongside  the 
steamer  as  soon  as  she  came  to  anchor,  and  as  he  was  well 
acquainted  with  our  friends,  there  were  hearty  greetings 
when  he  reached  the  deck.  An  hour  later  the  four 
travelers  were  beside  Mr.  Phillips  in  his  boat  pulling  for 
the  shore,  where  an  excellent  breakfast  was  awaiting  them. 
The  work  of  unloading  the  steamer  required  Mr. 
Phillips'  attention,  and  so  after  breakfast  the  four  friends 
sat  on  the  piazza  for  a  couple  of  hours  enjoying  Mr. 
Phillips'  cigars,  and  then   they  took   a    walk   around    the 

197 


CONGO   RIVER   TO   GABOON. 

place.  The  general  arrangement  of  the  factory  did  not 
differ  materially  from  what  they  were  accustomed  to,  but 
there  was  an  unusual  air  of  neatness  about  the  buildings 
and  everything  moved  on  with  the  precision  of  clockwork. 
The  openness  of  the  country  was  an  agreeable  change  from 
so  much  forest,  and  Mr.  King  felt  sure  white  colonists 
might  settle  here  at  once,  especially  if  they  had  money 
enough  to  hire  the  natives  to  do  the  roughest  of  the  field 
work.  At  the  factory  they  saw  white  carpenters  at  work, 
and  learned  that  they  suffered  no  special  inconvenience 
from  the  climate ;  indeed,  the  climate  here  is  not  hotter 
than  our  own  State  of  Georgia,  and  the  country  is  at  least 
as  healthy,  if  not  more  so. 

Kebenda  should  by  rights  belong  to  the  Congo  Free 
State,  but  for  some  reason  or  other  a  little  strip  of  sea-coast, 
not  more  than  forty  mile  long,  has  been  appropriated  to 
Portugal,  and  Kebenda  is  in  this  territory.  Kebenda  is 
not  likely  to  ever  become  a  pathway  to  the  interior,  but  it 
might  have  a  railway  to  Vivi,  one  hundred  miles  distant, 
that  would  run  through  a  healthy,  hilly  country,  well  fitted 
for  colonists,  and  would  develop  a  very  considerable  local 
trade  ;  or,  by  changing  somewhat,  it  might  run  parallel  to 
the  Congo  as  far  as  Stanley  Pool,  a  distance  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  and  thus  get  a  share  of  the  through  traffic 
in  passengers  and  freight.  Such  a  line  would  pay  better 
than  the  present  Congo  Valley  Railroad,  for  it  would  save 
one  handling  of  freight,  and  would  run  through  a  populous 
country  that  would  give  it  a  large  local  traffic.  Such  an 
investment  as  this  is  likely  to  prove  far  more  satisfaetory 
to  capital  than  the  various  South  American  bonds,  so 
largely  dealt  in  by  English  investors. 

One  of  the  chief  articles  of  trade  at  Kebenda  is  ground- 
nuts, which,  of  course,  must  be  cultivated,  a  proof  that  the 
people  of  this  section  are  willing  to  till  the  ground,  and  if 
there  were  white  colonists  to  teach  them  to  grow  coffee, 

198 


CONGO    RIVER   TO    GABOON. 

cane,  cotton  and  tobacco,  it  need  not  be  long  before  these 
might  be  exported  in  considerable  quantities.  The 
Kebenda  negroes  are  fairly  good  carpenters,  and  are  able 
to  build  schooners  that  carry  ten  or  twelve  tons  ;  such  a 
people  must  be  capable  of  improvement,  and  with  a  little 
instruction,  would  make  efficient  workers. 

The  Kisanga  sailed  from  Kebenda  at  noon  the  next 
day,  and  at  3  p.  m.  reached  Landana,  a  really  beautiful  and 
picturesque  trading  station,  in  the  very  corner  of  the  Portu- 
guese territory  already  mentioned.  White  factories  lined 
the  beach,  and  the  summit  of  a  hill  to  the  right  was 
crowned  with  the  substantial  buildings  of  the  Catholic 
Mission,  looking  very  cool  and  inviting  beneath  the  shade 
of  palms  and  other  fruit  trees.  The  gardens  and  orchards 
of  these  French  priests  are  admired  by  all,  and  show  clearly 
what  the  country  is  capable  of ;  there  is  no  good  reason 
why  the  country  back  of  Landana  should  not  contain 
thousands  of  beautiful  and  happy  homes. 

The  Kisanga  did  not  linger  long  at  Landana,  pleasing 
though  it  was  to  the  eye,  and  at  eight  in  the  evening  the 
northward  voyage  was  resumed,  and  at  sunrise  on  Saturday 
morning  she  anchored  in  Black  Point  Bay.  This  fine  bay 
is  in  French  territory,  although  it  is  in  the  free  trade  zone, 
and  as  has  already  been  mentioned,  it  would  be  an  excellent 
terminus  for  a  railway  to  Brazzaville  at  Stanley  Pool.  Long 
before  another  century  has  passed  away  there  will  be  here 
a  busy  commercial  city,  and  enormous  fortunes  will  be 
made  in  the  rise  in  real  estate,  similar  to  those  made  by 
early  settlers  in  Cincinnati,  Chicago  and  other  cities  of  the 
West.  There  are  a  number  of  factories  already  here,  and 
it  will  not  be  long  before  Black  Point  must  take  its  place 
amongf  the  cities  of  the  world.  This  would  be  a  line 
location  for  a  Protestant  Mission,  and  the  wonder  is  that  it 
has  not  been  occupied  before  ;   the  country  is  healthy,  the 


199 


CONGO    RIVER   TO   GABOON. 

people  fairly  industrious  and  capable  of  improvement,  and 
its  location  must  make  it  a  highway  to  the  interior. 

Just  back  of  the  town  a  short  distance  is  the  Luemma 
River,  which  is  navigable  for  boats  for  three  days'  journey 
toward  the  northeast.  The  country  is  open,  except  along 
the  water  courses,  where  there  is  a  rich  growth  and  villages 
of  the  native  people  are  numerous.  To  build  the  proposed 
railway  to  Stanley  Pool  would  take  from  two  years  to  five 
years,  according  to  the  amount  of  energy  displayed  in 
forwarding  the  enterprise,  and  in  ten  years  from  the  time 
it  was  finished  the  condition  of  the  country  would  be  changed 
and  an  era  of  prosperity  begin  exceeding  anything  known 
in  the  settlement  of  our  own  Western  States.  Nothing 
is  needed  but  industry  directed  by  skill  and  intelligence 
to  make  this  land  one  of  the  most  desirable  places  of 
residence  in  the  world ;  provided,  of  course,  there  be 
suitable  means  of  communication,  with  a  strong  and 
liberal  government.  The  French  territory  begins  some 
miles  south  of  Black  Point  and  extends  to  Gaboon,  where 
the  governor  of  this  large  and  fertile  province  has  his 
residence.  It  is  true  French  rule  is  not  in  all  respects  the 
best  that  could  be  wished  for,  but  the  administration  of 
affairs  is  constantly  improving,  and  as  the  French  people 
do  not  emigrate,  the  colon}-  must  presently  be  settled  by 
Anglo-Saxon  and  Scandinavian  immigrants,  whose  influence 
will  be  more  and  more  felt  in  the  administration  of  colonial 
affairs. 

Immediately  after  the  three  o'clock  tea,  the  Kisanga 
weighed  anchor  and  steamed  up  the  coast  to  Loango,  which 
place  she  reached  a  little  after  sundown.  This  trading 
station  is  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kwiln  River,  a  very 
considerable  stream  that  rises  among  the  hills  to  the  north- 
west of  Stanley  Pool.  There  is  also  a  French  military 
oste,  and  several  more  at  different  points  on  the  river. 


CONGO    RIVER   TO    GABOON. 

Loango  is  well  situated  for  trade,  having  a  bay  some- 
what protected  from  the  ocean  swells,  and  being  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Kwiln  ;  but  its  greatest  prosperity  will  come 
from  a  railway  to  the  interior,  opening  up  a  rich  and 
exceedingly  desirable  country,  that  offers  at  once  more 
inducements  to  the  settler  than  many  of  the  South  Ameri- 
can Republics.  A  railway  could  be  advantageously  built 
from  here  to  the  debouchure  of  the  Lawson  River  into  the 
Congo,  one  hundred  miles  above  Stanley  Pool, — a  total 
length  of  line  of  a  little  over  four  hundred  miles ;  every 
inch  of  the  way  through  valuable  territory,  rich  in  both 
vegetable  and  mineral  wealth  and  entirely  health}*  for 
white  immigrants  ;  far  more  so,  indeed,  than  our  own  State 
of  Arkansas. 

To  those  who  think  Africa  is  a  sandy  desert,  or  an 
interminable  jungle  full  of  noisome  serpents,  cannibals, 
pigmies  and  other  dreadful  creations,  a  voyage  along  this 
coast  would  be  a  revelation.  Why  cannot  some  of  our 
level-headed  tourists  come  out  here  and  see  some  of  the 
most  beautiful  landscapes  that  grace  this  fair  earth,  hills 
and  valleys,  open  plains  and  park-like  forests,  navigable 
rivers  and  babbling  brooks,  palms,  bamboos,  orchids,  gar- 
dens, towns  and  villages — the  whole  fair  scene  bathed  in 
the  rich,  full  sunlight  of  this  tropic  land.  True,  the  country 
is  new  ;  the  lines  of  travel  are  not  luxurious,  nor  are  there 
here  all  the  conveniences  of  an  advanced  civilization  ;  but 
this  is  not  the  fault  of  the  country,  which  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful,  attractive  and  desirable  to  be  found  anywhere  on 
the  planet.  Lovers  of  nature  who  are  able  to  put  up  with 
rather  inferior  steamer  accommodations,  will  find  it  will  pay 
them  well  to  turn  aside  from  the  beaten  track  of  travel,  and 
make  a  voyage  along  this  coast.  When  they  do  so,  let  them 
remember  that  Africa,  like  other  countries,  does  not  put 
the  best  she  has  along  the  sea-coast  ;  and  let  them  make 
friends  with   the  traders  and    ascend   the   rivers   upon   the 


CONGO    RIVER   TO   GABOON. 

trading  steamers  ;  or,  better  still,  in  boats  or  large  canoes, 
and  they  will  behold  scenes  of  beauty  that  will  thrill  their 
souls  with  pleasure  and  delight. 

The  Kisanga  left  L,oango  at  nine  o'clock  on  Sabbath 
morning,  and  at  noon  on  Monday,  November  2nd,  anchored 
in  Mayumba  Bay,  a  few  miles  south  of  the  Nyanga  River. 
Mayumba  is  a  trading  station  like  Loango  and  Landana, 
and  like  them  also  it  is  situated  in  an  open,  hilly,  healthy 
country,  and  is  likely  to  become  a  thriving  commercial 
settlement  within  a  few  years.  Two  hundred  miles  back 
from  the  coast  four  rivers  take  their  rise  among  the  hills  ; 
three  of  these,  the  Ngunie,  Nyanga  and  the  Ogowe,  pour 
their  waters  into  the  Atlantic  ;  while  the  fourth,  the  Alima, 
helps  to  swell  the  mighty  Congo.  This  hill  country 
abounds  in  minerals,  especially  in  copper  and  iron,  and  as 
the  soil  is  rich,  the  rainfall  abundant,  and  the  climate 
health}-,  it  is  well  fitted  for  becoming  the  home  of  a  large 
white  population.  This  is  the  last  port  in  the  Free  Trade 
Zone,  which  gives  it  an  importance,  for  the  French  import 
duty  is  high  for  a  new  country. 

Mayumba  is  not  favorably  situated  for  a  railway  to  the 
Congo,  but  a  line  of  road  two  hundred  miles  long,  extending 
into  the  hill  country,  will  soon  become  a  necessity  and 
would  develop  a  heavy  local  traffic. 

The  steamer  sailed  from  Mayumba  at  sundown,  and  on 
Wednesday  morning  anchored  in  front  of  Manji,  just  inside 
of  Cape  Lopez,  in  Cape  Lopez  Bay.  This  is  the  port  of  the 
Ogowe  River,  a  valuable  waterway  that  opens  up  a  consid- 
erable portion  of  the  interior  to  commercial  and  industrial 
operations.  This  river  is  the  scene  of  the  explorations  of 
the  Count  de  Brazza  and  his  efficient  lieutenant,  Dr.  Ballay, 
through  whose  efforts  this  country  was  annexed  to  France, 
and  is  now  regarded  as  a  valuable  colony. 

The  Ogowe  is  a  large  river  and  pours  an  immense 
amount  of  water  into  the  sea.     Its  delta  is  verv  larofe  and 


*-;;» 


CONGO    RIVER    TO    GABOON. 

there  are  a  great  many  channels,  forming  a  perfect  network 
of  rivers,  lagoons  and  creeks.  This  extensive  delta  includes 
much  high  ground  and  a  very  considerable  population,  but 
most  of  the  islands  are  more  or  less  submerged  during  the 
month  of  November,  when  the  river  is  at  its  highest  stage. 
Near  the  sea  there  are  the  usual  mangroves,  but  ten  or 
fifteen  miles  up  these  are  succeeded  by  heavy  forest,  and 
this  again  by  immense  fields  of  papyrus  and  water  grasses ; 
beyond  these  again,  at  a  distance  of  seventy-five  miles  from 
the  seashore,  the  forests  begin  again  and  continue  with  little 
intermission  all  the  way  to  the  mountains. 

When  the  writer  ascended  this  magnificent  river  in  a 
small  canoe  in  our  Centennial  year  (1876)  it  was  almost 
unknown  to  the  civilized  world,  and  the  people  along  its 
banks  were  Pagans,  and  looked  upon  the  white  man  as  a 
spirit ;  to-day  Christian  churches  nestle  beneath  clumps  of 
graceful  bamboos  in  several  of  its  villages,  and  Moody  and 
Sankey  hymns  are  sung  by  the  people  as  they  paddle  along 
in  their  canoes.  During  the  canoe  journey  just  referred  to 
the  hippopotami  were  so  numerous  and  troublesome  as  to 
frequently  place  the  occupants  of  the  little  craft  in  great 
jeopardy  of  their  lives  ;  to-day  the  traveler  may  recline  in 
an  easy  chair  on  the  upper  deck  of  a  comfortable  river 
steamer  and  enjoy  the  beauties  of  the  passing  scene  in 
perfect  safety  and  comfort. 

There  are  a  number  of  picturesque  lakes  near  the  lower 
course  of  the  Ogowe,  connected  with  the  main  stream  by 
side  channels;  some  of  these  lakes  are  not  exceeded  in 
loveliness  by  anything  that  can  be  found  in  the  world. 
They  often  lie  in  the  very  bosom  of  the  hills,  with  an 
exceedingly  irregular  shore  line,  the  rich  tropic  vegetation 
reflected  in  the  clearest  water  by  the  brilliant  sunlight.  No 
lovelier  home  could  be  found  in  all  earth's  wide  domain, 
and  before  another  generation  passes  the-  world  of  fashion 
will  visit  these  beautiful  sheets  of  water  as  they  now  visit 

203 


CONGO    RIVER   TO    GABOON. 

Como  and  Killarney.  At  present  the  shores  of  these  lakes 
abound  in  game — a  veritable  hunter's  paradise — but  it  will 
not  be  long  before  the  forests  must  give  way  to  orchards  of 
orange,  pear,  mango  and  other  fruit  trees,  and  coffee  and 
cacao  estates. 

All  the  creeks,  rivers  and  lakes  of  the  entire  delta, 
and  the  main  stream  as  far  as  Njoli,  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  from  the  sea,  are  navigable  for  river  steamers  ten 
months  in  the  year.  At  the  very  close  of  the  dry  season 
some  of  the  channels  are  obstructed  by  sand  banks,  but 
then  most  of  them  carry  from  three  to  four  feet  of  water 
— abundance  for  flat-bottomed  boats  such  as  we  have  on 
our  Western  rivers.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  steamers  now  run 
upon  the  river  throughout  the  entire  year. 

There  are  at  the  present  time  no  finer  hunting-grounds 
in  the  world  than  is  to  be  found  in  some  portions  of  this 
delta  and  the  adjoining  mainland.  Elephants,  gorillas, 
apes,  monkeys,  buffalo,  boar,  leopards,  deer  and  antelopes 
are  found  in  the  forests  ;  with  hippopotami,  crocodiles  and 
manati  in  the  river,  and  birds  in  almost  innumerable  variety. 
The  people  will  welcome  hunters  and  assist  them  in  every 
way,  as  they  are  fond  of  the  flesh  of  all  these  creatures,  and 
will  do  anything  for  those  who  furnish  them  with  abun- 
dance of  meat. 

In  addition  to  the  animals  already  enumerated,  there 
is  an  abundance  of  excellent  fish,  some  of  them  as  fine 
game-fish  as  salmon  or  grayling.  No  great  physical 
exertion  is  required  to  hunt  in  this  territory,  for  most  of 
the  traveling  is  done  by  water,  and  one's  native  attendants 
can  build  him  a  very  decent  hut  to  sleep  in  every  night. 
Sporting  men  will  find  this  region  very  satisfactory,  at 
least  for  the  next  few  years,  or  until  the  forests  are  cut 
down  to  make  way  for  cane  fields. 

There  is  a  considerable  source  of  wealth  in  the  immense 
fields  of  papyrus,  which  would  be  excellent  for  paper  stock. 

204 


CONGO    RIVER    TO    GABOON. 

If  cut  at  the  close  of  the  dry  season  and  baled,  several  ships 
might  be  loaded  every  year.  But  these  rich  fields  are  too 
valuable  to  be  allowed  to  grow  paper  stock  ;  they  might  be 
dyked  at  moderate  cost  and  sown  with  rice.  There  are  two 
periods  of  high  water,  November  and  April,  and  by  sowing 
at  the  right  time  two  crops  of  rice  a  year  could  be  easily 
grown.  Capital  invested  in  rice  growing  on  these  alluvial 
lands  could  not  fail  to  be  well  rewarded.  The  cane  would 
thrive  luxuriantly  ;  small  quantities  are  grown  by  the 
negroes  to  chew,  instead  of  candy,  and  it  is  not  unusual  to 
see  canes  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist. 

The  Ogowe  is  a  land  of  plenty,  for  almost  every 
product  of  the  earth  will  there  flourish.  The  writer  lived 
four  years  upon  its  banks  where  it  flows  through  the  hill 
country,  and  on  his  grounds  almost  every  kind  of  fruit  tree 
known  to  the  tropics  grew  luxuriantly  ;  and  in  his  garden 
tomatoes,  eggplants,  cucumbers,  squashes,  sweet  potatoes, 
beans,  corn,  cabbage,  arum  esculatum  and  main-  other  vege- 
tables throve  abundantly,  while  plantains  and  bananas 
required  but  the  slightest  cultivation,  and  oil  palms  were 
abundant  everywhere. 

The  French  have  several  military  postes,  or  stations, 
along  the  river,  extending  as  far  as  Franceville,  which  is 
near  the  headquarters  of  the  Alima,  a  stream  that  flows  into 
the  Congo.  At  Njoli,  which  is  situated  at  the  head  of 
steam  navigation,  they  have  a  steam  saw  mill  and  many 
large  magazines,  and  the  entire  island  is  laid  out  with  gravel 
walks  like  a  park,  with  rice  and  various  fruits  growing — an 
object-lesson  of  what  this  whole  country  may  become. 
This,  be  it  observed,  is  in  the  cannibal-pigmy-deep-forest- 
blood-and-th under  portion  of  Africa,  but  a  more  beautiful 
land  no  one  need  wish  to  see;  it  only  awaits  the  hand  of 
industry'  to  make  it  a  garden  of  loveliness — a  fair  Eden  of 
fruits  and  flowers  and  every  good  thing.  The  country  is 
new  we  grant  you  ;  but  so  England  was  once  covered  with 

205 


CONGO    RIVER    TO   GABOON. 

forests  through  which  our  ancestors  roamed  clothed  in  skins 
— a  wild  and  savage  horde.  Times  have  changed  since 
then,  and  they  will  change  in  Africa,  and  that  before  many 
years  have  passed.  There  are  post  offices  in  the  Ogowe  to 
which  letters  may  be  sent  from  any  part  of  the  civilized 
world  ;  in  a  year  or  two  there  will  be  telegraphs,  and  in 
another  decade  a  railway.  Let  those  who  have  the  time 
and  inclination  for  foreign  travel  take  a  trip  up  the  Ogowe 
and  see  for  themselves. 

Fish  are  very  plentiful  in  Cape  Lopez  Bay,  and  the 
factories  and  military  stations  at  Manji  are  well  supplied 
all  through  the  year.  The  native  villages  all  about  the 
Bay  maintain  a  steady  trade  with  Gaboon  and  various 
inland  towns  in  the  dried  and  smoked  article.  These  fish 
are  mostly  caught  with  a  net,  although  many  kinds  would 
afford  good  sport  with  the  hook. 

The  principal  exports  of  the  Ogowe  at  the  present 
time  are  rubber,  ivory,  ebony  and  a  very  little  of  oil, 
kernels  and  bar  wood  ;  large  quantities  of  ivory  come  from 
the  hilly  country  to  the  east  and  northeast,  and,  strange  as 
it  may  seem,  a  large  proportion  of  this  ivory  is  not  taken 
from  living  elephants,  but  is  found  in  swampy  places 
toward  the  close  of  the  dry  season.  The  Ogowe  ivory  is 
the  finest  quality  in  the  world  ;  the  average  weight  of  the 
tusks  being  sixty  pounds,  but  occasionally  a  specimen  is 
met  with  as  heavy  as  one  hundred  and  eighty  pounds  and 
eight  feet  in  length  ! 

Between  Cape  Lopez  and  Gaboon  the  country  is  open 
and  park-like,  prairies  and  small  patches  of  woodland  are 
interspersed  with  brooks  and  little  lakes,  with  now  and 
then  a  low  hill  rising  above  the  general  level.  The  popu- 
lation is  not  large,  and  the  game  abundant.  During  the 
drv  season,  which  lasts  from  the  first  of  May  until  early  in 
October,  this  is  one  of  the  finest  hunting  grounds  in  the 
world ;  not  only  is  there  no  rain  during  these  five  months, 

206 


CONGO    RIVER   TO    GABOON. 

but,  being  the  cool  season  also,  it  is  delightful  to  traverse 
the  woods  and  take  abundant  exercise  in  the  open  air.  If 
a  party  would  leave  England  the  middle  of  March,  spend 
two  or  three  weeks  in  Gaboon  getting  acquainted  with  the 
country  and  engaging  guides,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  start  out 
as  soon  as  the  rains  cease,  they  would  have  a  most  enjoy- 
able excursion  and  secure  a  large  amount  of  game. 
Throughout  this  section  the  plantain,  banana,  yam,  sweet 
potato  and  sugar  cane  flourish,  and  at  the  villages  moderate 
supplies  of  these  and  other  vegetables  may  be  had.  This 
entire  region  is  admirably  adapted  for  dividing  up  into 
estates,  and  every  kind  of  tropical  plant  will  thrive  well. 

Beyond  the  Coast  Range,  which  is  here  little  more 
than  one  hundred  miles  from  the  sea-board,  the  country  is 
considerably  elevated,  thickly  populated,  and  of  very  great 
beauty  ;  it  is  a  well  watered  land,  and  if  it  is  possible  to 
judge  by  the  hearty,  robust  appearance  of  its  people,  a 
healthy  one  also.  At  present  the  French  colonial  officials 
will  not  permit  white  men  to  enter  this  fair  land  ;  no  one 
outside  their  own  charmed  circle  being  permitted  to  pass 
beyond  the  military  poste  on  Njoli  Island  ;  but  this  restric- 
tion, we  may  hope,  will  soon  be  removed. 

The  Kisanga  approached  the  broad  mouth  of  the 
Gaboon  River  at  dawn  on  the  6th  of  November.  It  had 
rained  heavily  during  the  night,  but  with  the  rising  of  the  sun 
the  clouds  broke  away,  and  the  rich  sunlight  shone  through 
the  clear  air  upon  a  glorious  landscape  of  hill  and  dale, 
refreshed  by  the  recent  rains.  The  river  is  from  eight  to 
ten  miles  wide,  and  the  channel  between  the  banks  is  well 
buoyed  and  carries  a  depth  of  from  eight  to  ten  fathoms. 
The  course  at  first  lay  to  the  south  side  of  the  river  until 
well  within  Sandy  Point,  when  a  course  is  laid  directly  to 
the  guardship,  which  is  anchored  in  front  of  the  public 
buildings  a  mile  from  the  northern  shore. 


207 


CONGO    RIVER    TO    GABOON. 

Gaboon  is  thought  by  many  to  be  the  most  attractive 
port  on  the  West  African  Coast,  as  it  has  unquestionably 
the  largest  and  most  secure  harbor,  there  being  not  less 
than  sixty  square  miles  of  anchorage  ground.  As  the  steamer 
neared  the  northern  shore  the  foreign  settlement  came  more 
distinctly  in  view ;  to  the  right  were  the  English  and 
German  factories  where  Messrs.  Sinclair  and  Schiff  were  to 
spend  the  next  three  years,  and  just  back  from  the  river, 
on  the  summit  of  a  low  hill,  Mr.  King's  home  could  be 
seen  nestling  cosily  amid  a  wealth  of  greenery ;  away  to 
the  left  were  the  extensive  grounds  of  the  French  Catholic 
Mission,  the  heavy  stone  buildings  hidden  by  the  rows  of 
cocoa  palms,  while  just  ahead  were  the  French  government 
buildings  and  a  number  of  shops  and  boarding  houses. 
Several  vessels  were  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  ;  some  receiv- 
ing their  cargo  of  bar  wood,  and  one  was  unloading  cattle 
by  lowering  them  into  a  lighter  by  means  of  a  rope  fastened 
around  their  horns. 

Our  four  friends  were  in  a  state  of  pleasurable  excite- 
ment, for  this  was  the  end  of  their  voyage,  and  for  three  of 
them  it  was  "  home,"  for  they  had  come  to  look  upon  Africa 
as  their  adopted  country,  the  land  that  afforded  them  a  living, 
and  where  they  had  spent  the  best  years  of  their  lives ;  so 
they  were  making  up  their  last  bundles,  taking  leave  of  the 
stewards,  and  every  few  moments  scanning  the  shore  with 
that  loving,  interested  gaze  with  which  one  looks  into  the 
face  of  a  long-absent  friend. 

The  Kisanga  was  not  detained  at  the  guardship,  and, 
passing  up  the  river,  anchored  in  front  of  Messrs.  Hatton 
&  Cookson's  factory.  While  still  coming  up  the  river 
boats  were  seen  to  leave  the  shore,  and  as  soon  as  the 
anchor  was  down  they  came  alongside,  and  there  were  joyful 
greetings,  while  the  news  was  eagerly  inquired  for,  and 
when  curiosity  was  in  a  measure  satisfied  all  hands 
adjourned  to  the  saloon  for  breakfast.     As  the  news  from 

208 


CONGO    RIVER    TO   GABOON. 

shore  was  all  favorable,  the  party  that  gathered  around  the 
table  were  as  merry  and  jolly  as  men  know  how  to  be.  Mr. 
Scruff  was  especially  gay  ;  he  sang  songs,  told  his  best 
stories,  and  kept  the  company  in  a  roar  of  laughter  all  the 
while. 

After  breakfast  the  luggage  was  all  sent  in  a  lighter, 
and  it  was  not  long  before  the  boats  followed  with  all  hands, 
and  they  soon  landed  at  the  end  of  the  pier  that  Messrs. 
Hatton  &  Cookson  have  built  out  beyond  the  breakers  to 
deep  water.  The  custom  house  regulations  at  Gaboon  are 
often  annoying  to  strangers,  but  our  friends  were  so  well 
known  they  had  no  trouble  ;  the  inspection  was  soon  over, 
and  strong-limbed  Kru  boys  carried  the  packages  away  to 
their  various  destinations,  followed  by  the  owners,  and  the 
pleasant  voyage  was  a  thing  of  the  past.  Mr.  King's  little 
carriage  was  in  waiting  for  him,  and  he  and  Mr.  Alexander 
were  soon  rattling  through  the  streets  behind  a  team  of 
four  strong  Kru  boys  and  up  the  hill  to  the  cool  and  com- 
fortable home  beneath  the  breadfruit  and  mango  trees. 

Gaboon  is  a  long,  narrow  town,  extending  for  some 
three  miles  along  the  river  bank,  and  with  an  average 
width  of  half  a  mile.  The  great  mercantile  establishments 
are  near  the  beach  for  convenience  of  handling  cargo,  while 
back  of  them  is  the  residence  portion  of  the  town,  half 
hidden  by  the  broad  plantain  and  banana  leaves,  as  well  as 
mango  and  other  fruit  trees  that  have  been  planted  for  the 
sake  of  the  shade.  The  government  buildings,  cathedral 
and  public  gardens  occupy  a  prominent  position  on  a  bluff 
thirty  or  forty  feet  high,  back  of  them  being  the  residence 
of  many  of  the  officers  as  well  as  the  barracks  for  the 
troops.  The  streets  are  macadamized,  and  in  the  evening 
when  the  people  go  abroad  to  get  the  air  and  hear  the  news, 
they  present  quite  a  scene  of  gayety,  especially  upon  moon- 
light nights.     An  excellent  band  plays  in  the  governor's 

xiv  209 


CONGO    RIVER   TO    GABOON. 

garden  every  Sunday  afternoon  and  evening  and  upon  all 
gala  occasions. 

The  land  near  the  mouth  of  the  Gaboon  is  rather 
high  and  hilly,  but  a  few  miles  up  the  river  the  hills  recede 
and  leave  a  broad  valley  that  is  covered  with  a  thick  growth 
of  mangroves,  bamboos,  palms,  pandanus  and  other  water- 
loving  plants.  This  great  swamp,  or  inland  delta,  continues 
all  the  way  up  to  the  foot-hills  of  the  Coast  Range,  some 
seventy-five  miles  distant.  The  river  is  navigable  to  these 
foot-hills  for  river  steamers  of  the  smaller  size.  The  soil 
is  everywhere  productive,  and  contrary  to  what  might  be 
supposed,  the  low-lying  river  basin  is  not  particularly 
unhealthy.  Gaboon  formerly  possessed  an  extensive  trade 
in  ivory,  but  this  has  now  drifted  away  to  the  Ogowe, 
leaving  the  former  little  else  than  her  magnificent  harbor, 
unless  she  builds  a  railway  following  the  line  of  hills 
toward  the  interior,  and  employs  the  native  labor  in  work- 
ing large  estates  of  cane,  coffee,  rice  and  tobacco.  Iron  ore 
of  good  quality  is  found  in  the  hills,  and  the  natives  smelt 
small  quantities  for  manufacture  into  spears,  knives,  hoes 
and  other  implements.  This  and  other  minerals  might  be 
made  a  source  of  profit,  but  for  the  present  the  country 
may  be  more  satisfactorily  developed  from  the  Ogowe  than 
from  the  Gaboon. 

The  Gaboon  markets  are  well  supplied  with  the  various 
kinds  of  country  produce,  such  as  plantains,  bananas,  yams, 
sweet  potatoes,  cassava,  maize,  beans,  palm  nuts,  palm 
cabbage,  fresh  fish  and  turtle,  dried  fish  from  Cape  Lopez, 
monkeys,  deer,  pigs  and  other  game,  and  quite  a  variety  of 
forest  nuts.  The  gardeners  who  have  been  instructed  in 
the  Catholic  Mission  also  sell  all  kinds  of  tropical  fruits, 
together  with  tomatoes,  eggplants,  okra,  cabbage,  lettuce, 
radishes  and  many  other  home  vegetables.  The  month  of 
November  is  early  summer-time  in  this  latitude,  and  so  our 
friends  had   arrived  at  the  season  of   the  greatest  plenty 


CONGO    RIVER   TO   GABOON. 

when  the  markets  were  fairly  overstocked  with  good 
things. 

On  Saturday  evening  there  was  a  large  dinner  party 
at  Mr.  King's  house  to  celebrate  the  safe  arrival  of  the 
Kisanga's  passengers,  when  the  gallant  Captain  was  the 
recipient  of  many  thanks  for  all  his  kindness  during  the 
voyage,  and  all  the  guests  professed  their  determination  to 
travel  only  by  the  Kisanga  so  long  as  Captain  Charles 
Thompson  was  in  command.  On  Sabbath  morning  the 
five  friends  attended  service  in  the  Presbyterian  church  and 
spent  the  remainder  of  the  clay  at  Mr.  Scruffs  comfortable 
home.  Any  one  seeing  Mr.  Schiff  among  strangers  would 
scarcely  suppose  he  was  one  of  the  best  of  housekeepers, 
very  few  ladies  being  able  to  exceed  him  in  this  respect — a 
valuable  accomplishment  to  those  living  bachelor  lives 
upon  the  Coast. 

On  Monday  morning  the  four  friends  gathered  upon 
the  Kisanga's  deck  to  say  "  good  bye  "  to  Captain  Thomp- 
son and  wish  him  a  prosperous  voyage  to  Merrie  England 
and  return.  Mr.  Alexander  was  to  remain  over  at  Gaboon 
for  one  trip,  so  the  good  Captain  felt  that  he  was  quite 
deserted.  At  eight  o'clock  the  rattle  of  the  anchor  chain 
warned  our  friends  it  was  time  to  go,  and  with  many  a 
hearty  "  bon  voyage  "  they  hastened  down  the  ladder,  and 
by  the  time  they  had  reached  Mr.  King's  house  the  Kisanga 
was  in  the  offing  and  had  turned  her  head  to  the  northward. 
As  the  four  friends  seated  themselves  upon  the  veranda, 
with  the  wide  and  beautiful  river  before  them,  the  tall  cocoa 
palms  waving  their  graceful  arms  in  the  morning  breeze, 
and  the  rich  sunlight  bathing  the  landscape  in  a  flood  of 
glory,  they  heartily  agreed  that  nowhere  on  this  broad  earth 
was  there  so  goodly  a  land  as  Newest  Africa  ! 


THE  OGOWE  BAND 


IN  ITS 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SUNNY  LANDS  BEYOND 
THE  SEA. 


By  JOSEPH  H.  READING, 
Author  "  Newest  Africa"  and  other  works. 


Royal  Octavo.  Sixty-five  full-page  Illustrations. 


THE  design  of  this  book  is  to  give  a  reliable  picture 
t  of  a  voyage  to  Africa  and  life  in  that  marvelous 
jJMSaffl.  land  as  it  would  appear  to  a  traveler  who  might 
make  a  voyage  to-day.  The  incidents  of  my 
second  voyage  to  Africa  with  my  wife  and  daughter  in  1880 
are  here  given,  under  the  guise  of  the  adventures  of  the 
Ogowe  Band,  a  party  of  young  people  who  are  supposed  to 
make  the  voyage  under  the  guidance  of  the  genial  Judge 
McGee,  of  Jersey  City.  I  kept  careful  diaries  of  all  my 
journeys,  and  the  description  of  places  and  events  are  as 
accurate  as  it  is  possible  to  make  them.  The  book  was 
written  primarily  for  young  people,  but  men  and  women  of 
mature  years  have  found  it  intensely  interesting,  and  I  have 
received  testimonials  from  those  high  in  the  social,  religious, 


political  and  business  worlds.  My  long  residence  in  the 
Equatorial  regions  enabled  me  to  acquire  an  intimate 
knowledge  of  the  climate,  seasons,  productions,  diseases  and 
resources  of  the  country,  as  well  as  of  the  manners,  customs 
and  superstitions  of  its  tribes  and  peoples.  The  routine 
and  incidents  of  daily  life  in  tropical  countries  is  faithfully 
given,  for  this  book  was  not  written  by  a  traveler,  but  by 
one  who  made  Africa  his  home. 

There  are  chapters  on  Madeira,  Tropical  Voyaging, 
Baraka  and  Gaboon,  Church  Work  at  Gaboon,  Nomba  and 
Ovendo  Point,  Benita,  Bata,  Evuni,  Batanga,  Picnic  Excur- 
sion to  Sandy  Point,  and  many  other  subjects  of  deep 
interest.  The  whole  book  is  a  story  of  real  events  quite 
outside  the  usual  course  of  human  experiences,  and  will  be 
found  intensely  interesting  to  both  old  and  young.  It  is 
absolutely  pure  and  clean  in  text  and  illustration. 

There  are  sixty-five  full-page  illustrations,  all  from 
photographs,  giving  a  faithful  impression  of  the  appearance 
of  that  wonderful  land.  The  book  is  a  large  one,  weighing 
nearly  three  pounds  when  ready  for  mailing.  It  is  printed 
from  clear,  new  type,  on  fine  calendered  paper,  in  one 
royal  octavo  volume,  and  will  be  sent,  postpaid,  to  any 
address  in  any  country  in  the  world  for  $1.50. 

Nothing  could  be  more  appropriate  or  acceptable  for 
a  Christmas  or  a  birthday  gift. 
Address 

Joseph  H.  Reading, 

No.  421  Chestnut  Street, 

Philadelphia,  Pa. 


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